Kitchen Shopping

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, May 2 2022

Mmmm, fresh, warm bread for breakfast. With some Breton butter of Desmond's delicious jams and spreads, it was a great way to start the day. After breakfast, Des needed to run over to Vincent's place and pick up the flowers we had forgotten to bring home the night before. Craig and I loaded up all of our dirty clothes into a wheeled cart and headed to a nearby laundromat. We had a lovely view of the Loire from the front windows as we waited for our laundry. We had brought along our iPads and played a game of Scrabble. Before long, we were back home, putting our clean clothing away. 

A laundromat with a view

When Desmond returned, we headed out again to go to IKEA. After a long tram ride, we arrived and decided to have lunch there before looking around. It's hard to resist those Swedish meatballs! On Sunday, we had been to see the apartment that Des was in the process of purchasing, and were very impressed with it. We especially like the two balconies! Desmond had been planning his new kitchen, and we wandered through IKEA looking at cabinets and tile colors. I like the way the store is arranged, with little vignettes showing complete, well decorated rooms. It was fun to stroll through the "rooms" while Desmond took measurements and looked at samples. Before leaving, we picked up a package of their delicious chocolate dipped oatmeal cookies.

I love this table with the hearts!

That evening, Desmond had meditation group, so Craig and I relaxed and read our books. For dinner, we had an easy meal of a fresh baguette with two kinds of cheese, carrot sticks, pistachios, and the yummy cookies from IKEA. 

Craig cuddles with Azur

Gardens, Games, and Good Food

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: May 1 2022 

We had a treat for breakfast that morning. Des made chocolate chip pancakes, which we slathered in Breton butter and drizzled with strawberry-maple syrup. Delicious! After breakfast we straightened the house while waiting for Vincent to pick us up. We were looking forward to returning to his home for a barbecue. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect and it was great to be in Vincent’s beautiful garden again. 

Such a pretty place to linger!

Desmond brought out the charcoal grill, and he took charge of cooking the Toulouse sausages and the chicken and veggie kebabs. The sizzling food smelled wonderful as the patio table was set with fresh baguettes and two lovely cheeses. One was a goat cheese that was beautifully wrapped in oak leaves, the other was a mild cow’s milk cheese. There was a tray of several different flavors of mustard for the sausages. I really liked the sesame seed mustard! Agathe had been busy in the kitchen, where she made some tasty cookies which we enjoyed for dessert with fresh coffee. It was a fun and delicious meal. 

Desmond and Craig at the grill

Vincent brought out his collection of heart-shaped stones, which I enjoyed sorting through. I love finding heart-shaped things and have my own small collection. Vincent presented us with some sprigs of lily of the valley. I love their sweet fragrance. May 1 is Fete du Muguet, or Labour Day, in France and giving these lovely flowers is a tradition dating from the 16th century. They are said to bring luck for the coming year. 

After a while, we all engaged in a fun game called Molkky. It was played with wooden pegs set up on the lawn. Using a throwing stick, we tried to knock down the numbered pegs. The score for each round was determined in a couple of different ways. We played in teams and it was a lively competition, with lots of laughter. That was such a fun and relaxing day.

Vincent sets up the Molkky pegs

A Picnic on the Loire

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, April 30 2022

Mmmmm, hazelnut pastries for breakfast! That was a delicious start to the day. A picnic on the Loire was planned, and we set about preparing food. Des made pasta salad, while I cut up carrots and red peppers into sticks for dipping into Desmond’s homemade hummus. We packed a fresh baguette and some jars of pate and terrine. 

It was a short stroll to the river and then a careful walk across an old stone spillway which led to an island in the middle of the river. There were lots of trees and bushes covering the sandy expanse. Stones and shells were scattered everywhere. The weather was perfect, with sunny skies and a gentle breeze. We placed our things beneath a tree and then saw Vincent and his children crossing the spillway to join us. Before long, Chris and his young son Robin showed up.

 

One of the lovely views on the Loire

Everyone had contributed food and drinks, which we placed onto a large blanket. In addition to what we had supplied, there were several kinds of chips, guacamole, sausages, cucumber spears, cherry tomatoes, cheese spread, sardines, wine, beer, mint lemonade, cola, and a large bottle of water flavored with fruit syrup. Vincent had brought a special surprise which he hid beneath a tree, saying it was for later. The leisurely picnic was very enjoyable, with the beautiful views and great company. 

Our Loire picnic feast

A peaceful view from our
 little island on the Loire

After lunch, most of the group played soccer or tossed a frisbee. I searched for shells and stones, and when I found a striped heart-shaped rock I tried to pick it up only to discover that it was just the tip of a much larger stone. I later found a few small heart-shaped stones which I collected as keepsakes. I walked with Agathe through some shallow water over to a tiny island. She found some vines hanging from one of the trees like a swing and we chatted while she swayed back and forth. Splashing our way back through the water, I stepped in some thick mud and would have lost my balance if it weren’t for Agathe's outstretched hand. 

Loire river stones

Several of us sat on the warm sand and watched Vincent, Robin, and Arthus play soccer for a while. When it was time for the surprise Vincent had brought, we all gathered around on the blanket. He placed a couple of pastry boxes in front of us and opened them, revealing the beautiful treats inside. Someone cut them into halves so that we could enjoy a pastry buffet. I wondered if French people take those delights for granted? They are always such artful surprises, as beautiful as they are tasty. 

How to choose?

Desmond and Vincent on the Loire

                                                 

Another lovely view

After that amazing dessert, we played, relaxed, or searched for some more pretty stones. Toward evening, everyone packed up their things and then walked carefully back over the spillway to return to their homes. We were tired after the festivities, but it had been an ideal day and after nibbling a few leftovers, we played a game and then went to bed early.

La Baule, France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, April 29 2022

We awoke in our Airbnb in La Baule, looking forward to another day of sightseeing. Des went out early to find a bakery and brought home some beautiful pastries which we devoured with our coffee and then set out for the beach. 

Des enjoyed this beautiful mango
 and passionfruit croissant.

Le Croisic had been a rustic, laid back seaside village, but it was apparent that LaBaule was much larger and ritzier. The long esplanade on the beachfront was lined with posh hotels and boutiques. The tide was out, exposing a huge expanse of beach. There were quite a few people about searching for shells, splashing in the cold water, or playing games on the sand. 

The La Baule - Escoublac train station

A sculpture in front of the train station
 in La Baule, France

Colorful buildings in La Baule

These looked like fun!

Craig and Desmond on the beach
at La Baule, France

We wandered around on the beach for a while. It was such a beautiful day and we tried to think of something to do that wouldn’t require a lot of walking, since my lower back was still bothering me. I wondered aloud if it would hurt for me to ride a bike. Craig and Des were surprised and a bit skeptical, but it really sounded like a fun thing to do. They had both been so sweet and tolerant of my back issues and I really wanted to do this for them as much as for myself. Desmond found a nearby bike rental shop called La Baule Bike and I made Craig and Des promise that if I was unable to ride, they would go ahead while I found something else to do. I hadn’t been on a bike in five or six years, but after a wobbly start I found that I could do it! It did not seem to be hurting my back, so off we went. The bicycles were expensive ones, with large, comfortable tooled leather seats and roomy baskets. The owner of the bike shop, who spoke excellent English, had given us directions to a bike path that runs along Brittany's Côte Sauvage for miles. First, we had to navigate traffic on the city streets, which was a bit scary. But soon we were pedaling along in some gorgeous residential neighborhoods. After a while, we reached the bike path. 

We return to our bikes after lunch.

A scenic break just off the bike
 trail on the wild coast

There were many restaurants along the beachfront, so we decided to have lunch. After looking at the exorbitant prices for food + view, we decided to go a block further inland and soon found a burger shack where we had a decent meal with no view, but at one-third the cost. We began cycling along the wild coast and were delighted with the incredible scenery. The paved path was wide and well maintained. We took our time, enjoying the stunning views at every bend. Some of the rocky outcrops had steps cut into the stone which led down to the beach, and in some cases led straight into the water. We wondered if at one time they were used as access to old jetties or simply to scramble onto a boat. If there had been jetties there, they were long gone. We admired some of the homes along the coast and thought what wonderful views the occupants must have. We rode for miles, taking breaks to rest and for Craig and Des to scramble around on the rocky beaches. 

Craig and Des enjoyed clambering
on the rocky beach along the wild coast.

The views from the homes along
the coast must be spectacular!

The journey back to town was frightening at times, as we had to ride in the evening traffic. I’m sure that on one of the roundabouts, the occupants of the car next to me could hear me muttering “omigod, omigod, omigod!” as I maneuvered around the circle. After we had returned our bikes, we headed once again for the train station to board the 6:00 PM train for Orléans. We had two connections on the way and arrived home just before dark. It had been a great couple of days!

From Nantes to Le Croisic

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, April 28 2022

We definitely needed our jackets that morning, as a chill breeze was blowing. Des wanted to treat us to his favorite Nantes bakery, one of which was located in passage Pommeraye. After a quick cup of coffee in the apartment, we set out. The covered passageway was constructed between 1843 and 1845 by Louis Pommeraye. He envisioned a luxurious three-tiered indoor shopping center with shops, cafes, and even apartments which were located on the uppermost level. It is an architectural feast for the eyes, as you stroll past renaissance sculptures, Corinthian columns, and ornate wrought iron railing. We were a bit too early for the shops to be open and were disappointed that even the bakery was closed. Just seeing the luxurious shopping arcade was a treat, though. I enjoyed peering into the shop windows. One store specialized in nothing but sardines! There were dozens of varieties in artfully decorated tins and gift boxes. We also saw a Hermès shop and a large sporting and outdoor shop which had cleverly displayed their products.

Inside the Passage Pommeraye in Nantes

            

the Passage Pommeraye,
a shopping arcade in Nantes, France

On we went, toward an exciting attraction in Nantes - a giant steampunk elephant! We did stop at a bakery for some breakfast treats. I chose an “elephant”, which was a pastry swirled with chocolate, cinnamon, and Biscoff crumbles. It was fantastic! We carried our treats to an area near the elephant's barn and found a picnic table at which to sit. We were disappointed to learn that we wouldn’t be able buy tickets for the elephant ride, but we were still excited to know that we could watch as it trundled around the area. It had been reserved for groups of schoolchildren on a field trip. We were able to ride the enormous steampunk carousel which consisted of three levels of marine animals that could be ridden on and controlled with levers and foot pedals. Honestly, I think it was even better than the elephant! We delightedly explored all three floors, pausing to watch the action and the happy faces of children and their teachers as they rode such creatures as crabs, a giant squid, huge fish, and even a sea serpent. The entire place was filled with happy screams and shrill laughter as the kids raced around to get in line for their favorite creatures. The three of us chose to ride together on the sea serpent and I got to operate his mouth and the smoke he breathed out. We were laughing as much as the children! It was the most fun and unique carousel I had ever experienced. 

  

Want to ride a sea serpent?

The Steampunk Carousel in Nantes, France

                                 

Fun for everyone!

After that, we watched the huge elephant approach the loading area next to the carousel. Crowds of people surrounded it, taking photos and videos. Suddenly, the elephant began to spray water from its trunk onto the crowd! People scattered, laughing and screaming but most of them going back for more. We had moved to a safe distance from which we could watch and take photos without getting wet. When the huge mechanical creature was loaded with people, it began to walk slowly around the area. We followed for a while, glad that we had an opportunity to enjoy the elephant in motion. 

Craig and Desmond are standing
beside one leg of the Steampunk Elephant.

Watch out, or you'll be sprayed with water!

One of the sinking buildings in Nantes, France

We then made our way back to our apartment to pack and head to the train station. The ride to Le Croisic wasn’t long, and we soon began to see the salt farms in the marshes near town. We had wanted to stay a night in Le Croisic, but even though we had made plans and reservations many months before, there was nothing available. That didn’t stop us from enjoying the rest of the day there. The little train station wasn’t far from the beach. We began walking, scenting the salt air as we went past picturesque old homes and ivy-covered walls. The little town was very pretty, especially down by the harbor. There were lots of boats tied up, gently bobbing by the quay. 

Desmond and Craig climb to the lookout tower.

The salt marshes outside LeCroisic, France,
as seen from the train.

                                 

Boats on the quay in Le Croisic

As it was lunchtime, Desmond was taking us to a crêperie. There were lots of shops and restaurants along the shore but we continued on until we reached Desmond’s favorite. Though it was very crowded, the proprietor found us some seats near the corner. The decor in the restaurant was lovely, with antiques and cute memorabilia everywhere. We ordered cider and galettes, which arrived surprisingly quickly. They were fantastic! Mine was just the basic cheese and lardons, but it was very flavorful. Of course, we had to order dessert crepes. The salted caramel was sublime. 

Inside the creperie

Creperie Tante Germaine in Le Croisic

                                 

After that delightfully satisfying lunch, we began walking down to the beach. The weather was great, with us needing only a light jacket. The beach was beautiful, though the section we were on was covered quite liberally with shells and pebbles. Desmond spread out a blanket and then we went hunting for cowries and sea glass. The sound and smell of the sea was a pleasant accompaniment. Craig and Des decided to go for a walk down the beach while I remained behind, perfectly content with the view. A couple of women who were obviously just out for a stroll came near me. They had a small, fluffy white dog with them. He scampered around quite happily by their feet, but then I saw him raise his head and begin sniffing the air. He started down the beach, trotting with intent. He was honing in on something, and soon he flopped down and begin rolling happily. Probably on a dead fish or something. Suddenly one of the women cried out, “non, non, non, non, non! She ran to the pup and lifted him gingerly by his harness, scolding him all the while. She then began dunking him in the sea. It was all I could do to keep from laughing out loud. 

A lighthouse at Le Croisic, France

Des and Craig on the beach at Le Croisic

                                 

When Craig and Desmond returned from their walk, we lounged on the beach for a while longer and then gathered our things. We walked slowly back toward town, where we stopped at a waterfront cafe for a drink. We then found a wonderful bakery and each chose a couple of fresh, buttery kougin amaan in a variety of flavors. The patisserie had many enticing treats displayed and it was all so tempting! Soon, we returned to the train station and headed back the way we had come. We didn’t travel far, but got off at La Baule. It is a resort town on the coast and before long we had settled in to another cute AirBnB.  By then, we were tired and hungry. Our apartment was in a residential area and there were no restaurants or cafes nearby, so we ate our delicious pastries and then called it a night. 

The pretty train station at La Baule, France

A Castle in Nantes

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, April 27 2022

We woke early, excited about traveling to Nantes and then on to the Atlantic coast. I started a pot of coffee while Desmond ran out to a bakery and came back with Kouign Amann (in honor of us traveling to Brittany) and a couple of pain au lait. Thus fortified, we rode the tram to the train station and were soon on our way. I spent most of the 3 1/2 hour journey gazing out the windows as we traveled the familiar route past Blois, Amboise, and Tours and on through new sights toward Nantes. The countryside was beautiful with lush, greening fields and flowering trees. The Loire was often in view as we traveled along past cliffs dotted with troglodyte caves. Through rolling hills and forests we occasionally caught a glimpse of a castle. Just the usual scenery in France.

We arrived in Nantes at lunchtime, walking out of the station into bright sunshine. After a short walk, the three of us were soon seated at L'Alsacien, a restaurant serving flammekueche, also known as tarte flambée, which is actually from the Alsace region of France. We chose to dine outside where we were protected from the sidewalk traffic by a vine-covered screen. We studied the menu and then each of us chose a different “pizza”.  Our server was very friendly and told us that the proper way to eat flammekueche was to share each one. He explained that because the crust is so thin and crisp, he would serve one at a time so that they wouldn’t become soggy. We began our delicious lunch with la traditionnelle. The cracker-like crust was nearly as thin as card stock and was spread with crème fraîche and sprinkled with onion, smoked lardons, and emmental. It was love at first bite! Next up was la forestière which was much like the first one but with mushrooms added. Our third choice was commissaire magret, an incredible combination of caramelized onions, smoked duck breast, tomatoes, and emmental over the base of crème fraîche. It was a wonderful meal and a great start to our little getaway.

A delightful flammekueche

Bricks at a toy shop repaired with Legos

A beautiful half-timbered building in Nantes

Exploring Nantes, France

Desmond suggested that Craig and I visit the nearby jardin des plantes while he went to pick up the key to our Airbnb. We enjoyed walking around in the beautiful gardens, admiring rare trees, gorgeous blooming plants, and the whimsical art of Nantes-born artist Jean Jullien.

Art by Jean Jullien will make you smile.

Desmond returned in about half an hour. We walked for about 15 minutes and arrived at the very old stone building which housed our apartment. Upon entering the structure, we zigzagged across a courtyard and up several small flights of stairs to find our lodging. We were pleasantly surprised with the apartment. It was very clean and modern, and had everything we needed, with full-sized appliances in the gleaming kitchen. We soon left to go exploring.

Nantes is a lovely city of about 300,000 inhabitants. Des had been there a few times, but it was all new to me and Craig. We wandered toward the oldest part of town, admiring the architecture and peeking into shops as we passed by. Suddenly, our son stopped in his tracks. There was a donut shop! Not just a boulangerie or patisserie that sold donuts in addition to their usual fare, but an actual donut shop! Coming from America, this wasn’t something my husband and I would get excited about. Donuts shops are a dime a dozen there. But for Desmond, a donut was a rare, nostalgic treat! Of course, we had to go in. We were amazed at the many flavors offered. They were artfully decorated, too. And they tasted as good as they looked. I chose a pretty lemon meringue donut, which was scrumptious. We had carried them down the street until we found a shaded bench across from the Château des ducs de Bretagne. That was to be our next stop.

 

The Château des ducs de Bretagne was built in the 15th century by François II and later by his daughter Anne of Brittany, who would twice become Queen of France. Visitors are allowed to walk the ramparts, which we did. We looked down upon the moat and learned that the grassy areas around it are kept short and lush by some very eco-friendly lawnmowers - sheep! From up there, we were treated to a beautiful view across the city. We toured many of the 32 rooms and marveled at the artifacts and history of the chateau. 

We finally began meandering back toward our Airbnb, but not before stopping for hot chocolate at a cute little place Desmond had discovered on a previous visit. Our drinks were delicious and I was glad of the short rest. Continuing on, we went into a small market where we purchased ham, Cantal cheese, chips, olives, and chocolate raspberry cookies for our evening meal. It had been a fun day and we settled into our beds, looking forward to another great day on Thursday.