A Picnic on the Loire

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, April 30 2022

Mmmmm, hazelnut pastries for breakfast! That was a delicious start to the day. A picnic on the Loire was planned, and we set about preparing food. Des made pasta salad, while I cut up carrots and red peppers into sticks for dipping into Desmond’s homemade hummus. We packed a fresh baguette and some jars of pate and terrine. 

It was a short stroll to the river and then a careful walk across an old stone spillway which led to an island in the middle of the river. There were lots of trees and bushes covering the sandy expanse. Stones and shells were scattered everywhere. The weather was perfect, with sunny skies and a gentle breeze. We placed our things beneath a tree and then saw Vincent and his children crossing the spillway to join us. Before long, Chris and his young son Robin showed up.

 

One of the lovely views on the Loire

Everyone had contributed food and drinks, which we placed onto a large blanket. In addition to what we had supplied, there were several kinds of chips, guacamole, sausages, cucumber spears, cherry tomatoes, cheese spread, sardines, wine, beer, mint lemonade, cola, and a large bottle of water flavored with fruit syrup. Vincent had brought a special surprise which he hid beneath a tree, saying it was for later. The leisurely picnic was very enjoyable, with the beautiful views and great company. 

Our Loire picnic feast

A peaceful view from our
 little island on the Loire

After lunch, most of the group played soccer or tossed a frisbee. I searched for shells and stones, and when I found a striped heart-shaped rock I tried to pick it up only to discover that it was just the tip of a much larger stone. I later found a few small heart-shaped stones which I collected as keepsakes. I walked with Agathe through some shallow water over to a tiny island. She found some vines hanging from one of the trees like a swing and we chatted while she swayed back and forth. Splashing our way back through the water, I stepped in some thick mud and would have lost my balance if it weren’t for Agathe's outstretched hand. 

Loire river stones

Several of us sat on the warm sand and watched Vincent, Robin, and Arthus play soccer for a while. When it was time for the surprise Vincent had brought, we all gathered around on the blanket. He placed a couple of pastry boxes in front of us and opened them, revealing the beautiful treats inside. Someone cut them into halves so that we could enjoy a pastry buffet. I wondered if French people take those delights for granted? They are always such artful surprises, as beautiful as they are tasty. 

How to choose?

Desmond and Vincent on the Loire

                                                 

Another lovely view

After that amazing dessert, we played, relaxed, or searched for some more pretty stones. Toward evening, everyone packed up their things and then walked carefully back over the spillway to return to their homes. We were tired after the festivities, but it had been an ideal day and after nibbling a few leftovers, we played a game and then went to bed early.

Not Much, How About You?

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday December 26 2018

Craig and I slept in, having been up quite late on Christmas Day. The comfy king-sized bed was a warm nest from which it was difficult to arise. Eventually, we stirred enough to brew coffee and then just lazed around, sipping from hefty mugs and nibbling on madeleines. We straightened the house and put away our gifts before walking over to Desmond’s for lunch. We made sandwiches from the delicious leftover chicken and helped ourselves to braised chestnuts and even some decadent foie gras. 

I may have nibbled on
 a couple of these, too. 

Azur looks comfy!

The three of us were up for a walk, and ambled into town where we passed the quiet, closed Christmas market and the skating rink which was still in use. We visited a couple of bookstores and at the Canadian import shop we purchased a package of fragrant maple cookies. Heading back toward home, a quick stop at the boulangerie provided tasty éclairs to accompany our afternoon coffee.

The ice skating rink was a temporary
 installation for the holiday season. 

That evening, we all treated Desmond’s friend and neighbor Mathieu to dinner. It was a brisk, cold night and we were glad to take the tram to Courtepaille. Des had mentioned that it was Mathieu’s favorite restaurant. We all enjoyed our meals of salad, steak, and fries, accompanied by tasty cocktails. Mathieu has a good sense of humour and is fun to talk to. He invited us back to his place for a dessert of pastries. I chose an opera cake which was as delicious as it was attractive. Mathieu had recently moved to the apartment in a building adjacent to Desmond’s. It was roomier than his previous apartment and had obviously been recently renovated. He said he was quite comfortable there and was still near his friends. 

When we left for our own little apartment, I was glad we didn’t have far to walk. The evening was very cold and a stiff breeze had sprung up. Before long, we were snuggled into our warm bed. 

Our Christmas Eve in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, Dec. 24 2018

Christmas Eve! It was strange not to be at home for Christmas; it was definitely a first for us. Craig and I were thrilled to be spending the holiday in France with our son. I had switched on the two sparkling Christmas trees in our apartment before I headed into the kitchen to make coffee. The tree provided by our host was in the place of honor atop the mantel and was surrounded by some of the small gifts I had wrapped previously. I had hung our stockings there to complete the festive look, though we would take them to Desmond’s house later. The tiny tree was on our little dining table and provided another touch of color. 

Des came over with a box of pastries. The kouigin-amann was a delectable surprise. That sweet, flaky, buttery pastry is a traditional Breton delight. We also shared a yummy lemon tart as we planned our day. 

The kouigin-amann is a delight!

We had some grocery shopping to do, but first needed to stop at the pet shop to purchase food for Azur. As the three of us were approaching the shop, we saw a little girl leaving with her parents. Her eyes were sparkling and in her arms she cradled a large water-filled plastic bag in which a goldfish was swimming. The child had a huge smile on her face and both of her arms were wrapped around the bag protectively. As she lagged behind her parents, we saw her lift the bag and put her cheek against it as she gave it a gentle hug. She hugged her goldfish! That was one of the cutest things we had ever seen. For the rest of the day, one or the other of us would break into a smile or chuckle as we recalled it. It’s too bad her parents missed that special moment. 

Lost in translation?

The grocery store was very crowded, as we knew it would be, but it was fun. The store was packed with shoppers milling about selecting delicacies for their holiday feasts, while wide-eyed children waited in line to chat with Pere Noël. We wove through the crowds and managed to find everything we needed. After returning to Desmond’s place, we put away the groceries and then Des whipped up a lunch of vegetarian steak patties, potato puffs, and clémentines.

Those aren't cucumbers, they're avocados!

After laundry and a few other chores, we couldn’t resist a final visit to the Christmas market. The three of us bundled up and walked into the center of town. Of course, everyone had the same idea and the square was crowded with families. 

Enticing aromas of waffles, tartiflette, and roasted chestnuts wafted through the square. The hut with the biggest crowd was the one selling mulled wine, but the line moved quickly and we were soon sipping cups of that warm, spiced wine. Our next stop was for hot roasted chestnuts, which were scooped into a paper cone. Yum! 

Mulled wine is very popular on a chilly evening.

Craig and Des enjoying hot mulled wine
 at the Christmas market in Orleans, France

Roasted chestnuts were a treat

As sunset approached, we decided to ride the Ferris wheel. The lights on the candy striped-wheel were sparkling, as were the ones hung in swags from the wooden huts on the square. We enjoyed the view, though we were becoming chilled. It was time retrace our steps back across the bridge.

A view of the Christmas market from the Ferris Wheel

Another view from the big wheel

In France, most families have an elaborate meal on Christmas eve. Des had planned differently since he wanted to include Jeff and also Arno, who were not available until Christmas Day. He put together a quick and delicious cheese fondue for our Christmas Eve supper. There were chunks of baguette, salami, ham, cooked potato, apple, and blanched broccoli to dip into the melted cheese. There was chocolate fondue for dessert, which we ate with caramel corn, pieces of waffle, and slices of banana and orange. It was a fun and festive meal. 

Christmas Eve fondue

We ended the evening by watching nostalgic Christmas shows, after which we stuffed the stockings and propped them carefully on the mantel. It had been such a fun day. 

Wrapping Up

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, Dec. 23 2018

Our little neighborhood bakery was closed on Sundays, so Craig and Desmond walked several blocks to le Lys d’Or to pick up pastries for breakfast. They brought me a tasty almond croissant which I thoroughly enjoyed. 

A rustic almond croissant

The guys had decided that they needed to do some more shopping. I remained at Desmond’s to wrap presents. I put on some Christmas music and soon got into a rhythm. Azur kept me company, and before long, the gifts were nestled beneath the tree.

Azur with his nose almost touching the radiator

Des and Craig returned at noon with goodies for our lunch. We enjoyed slices of baguette served with our choice of duck mousse, chicken rillettes, or ham and cheese alongside some tangy cornichons. Sweet, juicy clementines made a refreshing dessert. 

The weather continued to be quite chilly and even though a bright sun was shining, there was enough of a breeze to make one really feel the cold. Des and Craig bundled up again since they had just a bit more shopping to do. I remained in the apartment and caught up on email and messages home. 

That evening, Desmond made a quick and easy dinner of beef ravioli in a homemade sauce. A fresh baguette and rich Normandy butter went well with it. We ended the day with a game of Rummikub. How nice it was to do these ordinary things with our son. Our limited time together is always precious.

Father's Day in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, June 18 2017

Father's day! It was a lovely morning and Des suggested that we take our breakfast to the nearby Jardin des Plantes. Janey wanted to sleep in, so it was just the three of us. Desmond knew of a bakery that was open on Sunday, and it just happened to be on the way to the garden. We carried our box of pastries through the parc and found some seating beneath a huge weeping fig tree. It was a cool and peaceful place to enjoy our morning treats.

Yes, it was delightful!

A small sculpture at Jardin des plantes, Orleans

After that sweet little breakfast we explored the beautiful gardens. There were many lovely trees and flowers to admire, as well as some amazing dry-stacked stone arches. Herb gardens, fruits and vegetables, a grape arbor, fountains, and ponds all combined to create a special place in which to linger. There was even a maze created out of small hedges.

The dry-stacked stone was impressive.

A soothing picture beneath the fountain.

The guys had to check out the windmill.

We walked slowly home and then finished packing for our little jaunt to Amboise. Janey enjoyed the train ride, and when we arrived at the station in Amboise she discovered a baguette vending machine. Of course, she simply had to try it! We all sampled the baguette and agreed that it was not very good. But then, what can you expect when you buy bread from a machine? Oh, well, it gave us something to nibble on as we waited for a taxi to take us to our gite. And waited. And waited.

Janey bought a baguette from a vending machine.

We did think it was odd that there were no cabs parked in front of the train station, but it wasn't until Des made a few phone calls that we learned very few taxis are available there on a Sunday. At long last a friendly cab driver arrived. He kept up a lively conversation with Desmond, who translated some of his funny stories. My favorite was the one about the viagra-shaped chocolates!

The gite we had rented was on the very edge of Amboise. It was an old vintner's cottage that had been beautifully renovated. That little house was very charming and scrupulously clean. But also very warm. Craig and I had the upstairs bedroom, and there was plenty of room for Janey to sleep on an air bed on the floor.

Our gite in Amboise had a nice kitchen,
though it was too hot to cook.

Our hosts had shown us a path near a small river that would lead us into Amboise. It was time to explore. Had the weather been cooler, the trek into town would have been sheer pleasure. We were walking mostly through the countryside, with the stream on one hand and tilled fields on the other. Colorful poppies bloomed along the path. It was a very warm day and we were grateful for the shaded farm track which led us into Amboise.

Pretty poppies bloom along the stream.

As a special treat for Father's Day, Desmond had made reservations at a Michelin starred restaurant called Le Patio. It was situated along a lovely cobblestone street. The decor inside the restaurant was done in soothing shades of gray, with soft lighting and subtle touches of color everywhere. After we were seated, the waiter brought a carafe of ice water to the table and we wasted no time emptying it! And then our meal began.

Walking toward the restaurant in Amboise.

We started with the house cocktail; a delightful combination of Vouvray and creme de framboise, with a liqueur - soaked cherry at the bottom of the glass. Smoked trout rillettes and toasted baguette slices accompanied our drinks. Next up was a platter of amuse bouche which consisted of small rounds of goat cheese covered with sesame seeds, some tiny puff pastries rolled around pepperoni, and miniature cups of cold tomato soup. Along with all of that was a basket of sliced baguette and lots of fresh butter. We were off to a great start.

Our appetizers arrived, and they were as tasty as they were attractive. I had chosen the cold crab meat with grapefruit, avocado, and radish. It was delicious. Desmond ordered escargot fritters. They smelled fantastic, and when Des offered a taste I did not hesitate. Yum! Janey decided that she couldn't visit France without trying escargot, and it was rather hilarious watching her work up the nerve to taste it.

An interesting appetizer.

Janey laughs as she
works up the nerve to try escargot.

Desmond had ordered a bottle of wine, which we enjoyed with our main course. He and I had selected the lamb shank in a candied thyme sauce, with grilled asparagus. Craig and Janey had chosen a fish dish which was served with a saffron sauce and a vegetable melange of celery root, carrots, and zucchini. By the time we had finished that, we were practically groaning. We declined the cheese board, knowing dessert was yet to come!

Craig and Des had chosen an interesting dessert of chocolate rice pudding which was garnished with popcorn and drizzled with caramelized Carambar. Janey and I had selected the cake, and it was beautifully decorated with lemon cream, strawberries, and lime zest. By the time we had finished we were actually looking forward to the walk home so that we could work off that decadent food.

How's that for a decadent dessert?

We didn't expect a dessert after dessert!

Imagine our surprise when yet another tray of amuse bouche arrived at the table! Oh, my! Des said he had never heard of a dessert amuse bouche, but there It was. It was all we could do to eat it, though I have to admit those little bites were delightful. We were treated to peanut cake pops, miniature glasses of chilled watermelon juice, and the most amazing raspberry marshmallows anyone could ever imagine! They were so soft and fluffy that it was difficult to pick one up. At last, our incredible meal had come to a close.

We strolled slowly through Amboise and arrived at the gite tired but happy.

A baguette from a vending machine
 makes a good footrest.

I Get By (with a little help from my French)

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, June 7 2017

I awoke at 7:30, leaving Janey to sleep in. She had not rested well during the night. Desmond was also sleeping late, which was a treat for him. I leisurely sipped my coffee while checking email and messages from home. Craig was still diligently working on his expedited passport renewal, which was a frustrating activity. It seemed he was usually on the phone for hours and often received conflicting information.

Desmond woke at 9:00 and we talked for about an hour before waking Janey for a breakfast of pain au chocolat. It was a type I had never eaten before, made from a tube of refrigerated dough! We had fun assembling the pastries by placing two little logs of dark chocolate onto each rectangle of the buttery dough, and then rolling them gently into shape with our fingers. We enjoyed them fresh from the oven. Janey was still exhausted and soon crawled back into bed. Des left for work while I busied myself with household chores.

I woke Janey again at 1:30, so that we could go shopping. She had earlier expressed concern that we wouldn't be able to do much without Desmond along to translate. Des had assured Janey that her grandma knew enough French to get by quite well, but Janey still had some doubt.

Pain au chocolat from a tube! It was pretty tasty.

The two of us had fun wandering through the stores in and around Halles Chatelet. Janey wanted to purchase some bulk tea, so we went to Duo Thé et Chocolat, a shop that Desmond had recommended. The proprietor was as nice as Des had said, and even though he spoke only a bit of English we were able to communicate quite well. I noticed that he kept looking at Janey, seeming to study her features. At last he hesitantly asked me if she was Asian. When I replied that my granddaughter was half Chinese, the gentleman became quite animated and began searching through photos on his cell phone. Soon he proudly showed us an adorable picture of his own granddaughter, who is also half Chinese. By the time we left the tea shop, I felt that I had made a new friend. As we walked out into the street, Janey exclaimed, "Wow, grandma! You DO know how to speak French."

Janey was becoming tired and hungry, so we headed toward home while looking for a place to have a snack. We chose Garden Ice because it had a nice view of the Loire. After looking at the menu, I realized that there was really nothing snack-sized from which to choose. Janey ordered a plate of pasta carbonara, and we both had a coke. She dug into the pasta with eagerness, while I nibbled on a small piece of the accompanying bread. We were able to take the leftovers with us, which is something that is becoming more common in France.

A "snack" at the Garden Ice Cafe, Orleans.

On the way home, we stopped by the hardware store to purchase a fan. I'm glad the store wasn't far from home, because poor Janey was worn out. She kept apologizing for slowing me down, but I told her not to worry and that this was her vacation, too, and I wanted her to enjoy it. When Desmond returned from work, we relaxed over some cherry beer and nibbled on veggie chips. Janey had a glass of water with a splash of flavored syrup in it, and she really enjoyed those chips. For dinner, we ate the delicious lemon cream chicken that Des prepared. After that wonderful meal, we watched a movie and went to bed rather late. Janey didn't feel well, and cried and said she should have not have come to France. I comforted her as best I could, saying that she was still a bit jet-lagged and reminded her that she was not used to so much walking. Even so, she didn't fall asleep until 3:00. Still, it had been a good day.

Lemon cream chicken
 with spinach and sun-dried tomatoes.

Crepes for Breakfast

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, June 6 2017

How good it was to awaken in one of my favorite places on earth! The night had been wonderfully cool, and after a sound sleep, I felt alert and ready to enjoy the lovely day ahead. I was able to chat for a few minutes with Desmond as I drank my morning coffee, but soon he was out the door to go to work.  Janey slept on, curled beneath the blankets and looking very cozy. 

I was reluctant to leave, even just to cross the square for pastries. Concerned that Janey might awaken and feel disoriented and frightened, I settled on a breakfast of packaged blueberry crepes that were surprisingly tasty. Janey slept late and crawled out of bed feeling groggy. It took a while for her to become awake enough to want to go out. 

Packaged crepes.
Who knew they could be so good?

We rode the tram to the university and had lunch with Desmond. We had wanted to grab a bite at a nearby restaurant, but found it was closed, so we picked up sandwiches and chips at a local supermarket and took them back to Desmond's office.  It was Janey's first time there, and she was interested in everything. We were able to talk with a couple of Desmond's coworkers while we ate.

Later, we all shopped at Carrefour to pick up ingredients for dinner. Before going in to the market, we enjoyed coffee and pastries at Paul. When we returned home and were prepping the vegetables for dinner, Jeff called. He was immediately invited to stop by for drinks and we all had an enjoyable time together while we nibbled on cheese, sausage, and chips. We had purchased some non-alcoholic beer for Janey, which made her feel a part of the fun. 

Azur seems to be waiting for his share!

Jeff was unable to stay for dinner, but after he left we weren't very hungry, so we ate rillettes, spread on a fresh baguette. For dessert, we savored our own French version of strawberry shortcake, made by spooning sliced berries over some mini Tropezienne. Yum!

Adventure in the Trees

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, May 25 2016

I was glad we had awakened to beautiful weather. This was the day for the adventure in the trees, which everyone had been looking forward to. We woke up over coffee and then walked to the bakery for pastries with which to fortify ourselves. After that delightful breakfast and more coffee, we were on our way to Ile Charlemange.

What a wonderful way to begin the day!

The Léo Parc Aventure is an amazing place for zip lining, climbing, and other activities carried out high in the trees. There were many courses to choose from for every age and ability. They even offer a small course for the little ones, who were simply adorable in their tiny helmets. After a short orientation film, Craig, Desmond, and Mathieu were clad in their harnesses and ready to climb! They selected a moderately difficult course. I was to remain on the ground and act as photographer. 

It was cool and shady on the forest floor, as I followed the progress of the adventurers. The first obstacle looked very difficult to me. Even Craig was a bit worried as he watched Des ascend a vertical rope tunnel. The course became a bit less strenuous after that first hard climb.

Des negotiates the vertical rope tunnel.

I was amazed at the planning and ingenuity that had gone into the creation of this incredible obstacle course. It was cleverly designed so that the climbers were quite safe, strapped into their harnesses and always attached to a cable by a heavy-duty carabiner. 

Craig and Mathieu, high in the trees. Those boards didn't remain
 still as they were walked upon, but instead popped up at an angle!

I was enjoying my job as photographer in the woods filled with birdsong. A pleasant breeze eddied through the trees and was just enough to cool us off. I got a kick out of watching a few groups of high-school students as they laughed and screamed their way around an adjacent course.

Des rides a kayak through the trees!

Desmond and Craig in the trees.

After Craig, Desmond, and Mathieu had completed their fun but strenuous activity, we all took a break at the little concession area where we enjoyed ice cream or a cold drink. Craig and I encouraged Des and Mathieu to go on another activity while we waited for them. They chose a zip line course which would have them zig-zag through the trees and even over the lake. We enjoyed watching them. 

Blossoms and Butterflies

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, May 16, 2016

A Monday holiday is such a treat! Desmond was off work that day. It was sunny and gorgeous so we decided that a picnic at Parc Floral would be a great way to enjoy that extra day off. After coffee and a delightful lemon tart, we packed a lunch and were soon on our way to one of my favorite places in Orléans. 

It was the perfect time of year for a walk through the lovely botanical garden. We walked slowly, admiring the gorgeous blossoms, lush ferns, and flowering trees. We were serenaded with cheerful birdsong as we strolled the grounds. It was almost as if we had the place to ourselves. Parc Floral is quite large and even on busy days there are many times when no other people are in sight.

Beautiful flowers at Parc Floral in Orleans, France.

We saw many varieties of trees, some of which were the weeping type, whose branches form private, shaded bowers and little nooks where it would be pleasant to spread a blanket and read. The iris garden was beautiful, though it would be another week or so before the flowers would all be in full bloom. I was already planning to return with Craig after he arrived in France.

More gorgeous iris at Parc Floral.

We visited the butterfly house and walked slowly through it, hoping to catch a glimpse of some of the rarest and most flamboyant butterflies in residence. There was one large one with exquisite iridescent blue wings trimmed in black. I tried to photograph it, but it simply wouldn't hold still!

A butterfly luncheon party.

We found a shaded bench surrounded by climbing roses and sat down to enjoy our lunch. We had a pretty view of the pond, and behind it was the lovely stone chateau that, until recently, housed the administrative offices of the University. There were flowers everywhere, and a chorus of frogs calling from the banks of the pond. I ate a sandwich of ham, butter, pickles, and cassis-flavored mustard on a crusty baguette. Everything tastes so much better when eaten in such beautiful surroundings. We finished off with juicy nectarines before gathering up our things and heading toward the miniature golf course.

This was our lovely view during lunch.

The mini golf course is such fun, with some challenging holes that had us laughing as one or the other of us tried repeatedly to sink a shot! As we walked the course or paused to make a putt, we were often showered with tiny pink flowers that rained down on us from the trees above. In some places, the ground itself resembled a pink carpet.

Desmond attempts the maze at mini-golf.

When we left the park and drove home, the weather was still so beautiful that we were reluctant to be indoors. We walked over to a bar across the Loire and found a vacant table outside. I sipped a sweet cherry beer while enjoying the view. After that relaxing interval, we returned home to begin preparations for the evening meal.

We started our meal with tasty onion blossoms and fries, which we dipped into a wonderful sauce The Des had whipped up. Then, I helped prepare Brazilian beans and rice. It was made in a rice cooker and was a delicious combination of smoked sausage, chick peas, rice, chicken broth, bay leaf, and lots of garlic. Ice cream rounded off the meal. It was a fabulous day!

Another glimpse of Parc Floral