Not Just Another New Year’s Eve

Pages from Jan’s Travel Journal: Monday, December 31, 2018

New Years Eve. I can’t say that the three of us were in a festive mood. It was our last full day in France before Craig and I flew home to face the funeral of our beloved mom, Ruby. It would be hard to leave Desmond to mourn on his own. We ate breakfast and then began packing our bags and cleaning the apartment. We left the luggage inside and headed out on a last exploration of Lyon. 

A lovely building near our apartment in Lyon

Our view crossing a bridge in Lyon on a cold winter day

Our first stop was the Cinema Museum in old Lyon, which houses over 450 movie sets and props. The main exhibition room contained many of the sets from the movie “Parfum”, which was a very creepy film. The sets were intricately detailed and quite fascinating. There were props from dozens of well-known movies which we really enjoyed viewing. We saw Harry Potter’s wand and learned that the studio had to keep making replacements because Daniel Radcliffe would nervously scratch the paint off of them. I enjoyed seeing many of the props from one of my favorite movies, Amélie. We saw Mrs Doubtfire memorabilia, costumes from Star Wars, Mary Poppins’ umbrella, and so much more! 

This is a full-sized movie set from Parfum.

Another movie set from Parfum

Props from Amélie,
one of my favorite movies

Props from the movie "Mrs Doubtfire"

There was also an exhibit of miniature interior scenes. My favorite was a restaurant, with tables no more than a couple of inches high. They were fully decorated with table linens, flowers, candles, tiny plates, cutlery, wine glasses, and even baskets of bread! I wish I would have gotten a picture of it. I did get a shot of an little apartment scene.

A very detailed scene in miniature

After that, Craig returned to the apartment for a rest. Desmond and I wandered around looking for a place to have lunch. We ate at a very crowded Italian restaurant and were lucky to find a table. Des ordered a tasty truffle ravioli and I chose a creamy chicken and mushroom pasta bowl. We did a bit of shopping after lunch, which was fun, but I was glad to return to our apartment. The temperature had dropped and the afternoon had become quite cold. 

A chilly day in Lyon, France

It was soon time to leave for the train station. We had hired an Uber, and it was a long ride to the station. I wondered if we were going to just ride all the way to Paris! The Gare de Lyon was a very open, modern looking structure, but it was absolutely freezing inside. Our train was late arriving and we endured a lengthy wait in a long line before we finally boarded. 

The train car was warm, at least. We soon settled in. Desmond contacted the host of our AirBnB to let her know we were running late and was assured that it wouldn’t be a problem. Months previously, I had made the effort to find a luxurious place with a balcony and a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower for our New Year’s Eve celebration. (Not that we were now in any mood to celebrate.) It was to have been a special treat before Craig headed back home, while I would have returned to Orléans with Desmond for another ten days. 

We became concerned when our host did not give us the full address of the AirBnB. Each time we sent a text, it took longer and longer for her to respond. We also needed the entry code to the building, but she told us to just stand outside and wait for someone to exit the building and then just slip inside! We were unwilling to do that and still she had not told us the apartment number, but simply said that the key was under the door mat! Apparently she expected us to enter the building illegally and then start looking beneath random door mats! 

By this time, the train was nearly due to arrive at our station. Several times, we tried calling the host, but got no answer. Desmond suggested that we remain on the train, which terminated at the airport. We decided to do that and explain to the conductor our dilemma while offering to pay the additional cost. However, the conductor never came into our car to check our tickets. Meanwhile, I was on my phone reserving a triple room at the airport Ibis Hotel. 

We arrived at the station and had begun walking the short distance to our hotel when Desmond spotted a Marks and Spencer! Craig patiently waited in the hallway with our luggage while Des and I darted into the busy store. We selected items for our New Year’s Eve "dinner" and Des found us a nice bottle of champagne. 

Within minutes of settling into our room at the Ibis, we received a call from our AirBnB host. She claimed her phone had gone dead, yet we could hear that she obviously was at a party. Could she not have used another phone? She became a bit angry when we told her we were not going to stay at her apartment and that we would be requesting a refund. (The corporate office of AirBnB arbitrated the dispute and I am happy to report that we received a full refund.)

We spent the last few hours of 2018 reminiscing about mom/grandma. We shed some tears but also laughed a lot over the many happy memories of that very special woman who never allowed Alzheimer’s disease to destroy her bright smile and loving heart. Between the stories and sips of champagne with which we made a toast to mom, we munched on stuffed grape leaves, sausage, tiny sweet peppers filled with cheese, savory crackers, a baguette and some lovely cantal, with crisp Florentine cookies and spicy mince pies for dessert. 

Our midnight supper on New Year's Eve
 in the airport hotel

While it certainly wasn’t the celebration we had planned, the three of us had made the best of it and found some happiness with which to ring in the new year. Instead of a view of the Eiffel Tower, we had a view of the parking lot. But we also had each other, and hearts full of love and special memories. 

Wrapping Up

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, Dec. 23 2018

Our little neighborhood bakery was closed on Sundays, so Craig and Desmond walked several blocks to le Lys d’Or to pick up pastries for breakfast. They brought me a tasty almond croissant which I thoroughly enjoyed. 

A rustic almond croissant

The guys had decided that they needed to do some more shopping. I remained at Desmond’s to wrap presents. I put on some Christmas music and soon got into a rhythm. Azur kept me company, and before long, the gifts were nestled beneath the tree.

Azur with his nose almost touching the radiator

Des and Craig returned at noon with goodies for our lunch. We enjoyed slices of baguette served with our choice of duck mousse, chicken rillettes, or ham and cheese alongside some tangy cornichons. Sweet, juicy clementines made a refreshing dessert. 

The weather continued to be quite chilly and even though a bright sun was shining, there was enough of a breeze to make one really feel the cold. Des and Craig bundled up again since they had just a bit more shopping to do. I remained in the apartment and caught up on email and messages home. 

That evening, Desmond made a quick and easy dinner of beef ravioli in a homemade sauce. A fresh baguette and rich Normandy butter went well with it. We ended the day with a game of Rummikub. How nice it was to do these ordinary things with our son. Our limited time together is always precious.

Flexibility is the Key

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, June 16 2017

The forecast was for beautiful weather and we thought a little day trip might be in order. After coffee and pastries, we decided that we would like to show Janey the castle being built at Guedelon, and since it's difficult to reach by public transportation, we were in need of a car. We didn't feel right about borrowing one. Des and Craig checked with some car rental services, but that fell through. We were disappointed but not upset. There is a lot to be said for flexibility, however, and it was simply too nice to stay indoors. The four of us went to Parc Floral to play miniature golf, which is always a hilarious pastime. 

It was perfect weather for mini golf.

It's not easy to hit the ball into a basket.
Janey was the only one who succeeded that day!

That evening, we invited Desmond's neighbor, Mathieu to have dinner with us at the new burger cafe which had opened just a few feet away from the apartment. Mathieu was pleased that we had included him. He speaks very good English and has visited America. He had even been to Wichita! 

Les Burgers du Boucher in Orleans France

We were all impressed by Les Burgers du Boucher. The decor was modern, with a touch of rusticity in the exposed stone walls at one end of the restaurant. The menu had a wide selection of burgers from which to choose. Many of them were served with seeded buns, and not just the ordinary sesame seed variety. These had a mixture of sunflower seeds, rolled oats, poppy seeds, pine nuts, and more. Quite tasty. And the fries! France always seems to do fries right, and these were no exception. Our meals were brought to us on wooden cutting boards, and each large, juicy burger was skewered with bamboo. 

Dinner is served! You must try Les Burgers du Boucher.

Scrumptious, and more than I could finish.

It was good to see that the restaurant was busy. They were preparing a lot of carry-out orders, which is still a bit unusual in France. We were happy to have another restaurant so close to home. We'll be back. 

We ended our evening with a sitcom and playing with Azur. After a while, even he was ready to call it a day.

A Busy Saturday

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 14 2016

What a busy day! After our morning coffee, Desmond's friend Matt picked us up for an excursion to the vegetable farm on the outskirts of Orleans. We stopped first at Pat-a-Pain for breakfast. They had a wonderful selection of pastries, cakes, and other delights. I chose a delicious Tropezienne and a cup of hot chocolate. We then drove over to the farm to see what was available for picking. Since it was still a bit early in the growing season, we could harvest only parsley, lettuce, and carrots. There were rows and rows of strawberry plants in bloom, though they would not be ready for a while. There was a chill breeze blowing and we were very glad to have brought along some warm jackets. We dug carrots and picked parsley and also chose a bottle of locally made apple juice from the little farm store. 

Our next errand was grocery shopping. We went to Le Clerc, which was very busy with other Saturday shoppers. We weren't able to find everything we needed, so we drove a short distance to Auchan. They were also crowded, but we managed to locate what we had come for. We also checked out the huge new aisle full of bulk items and were very pleased at the variety. I even found some wonderful, soft, pastel marshmallows that are available in flavors like cassis and violet. 

We were soon ready for lunch at Mont Fuji. I'm not a fan of sushi, but the restaurant offers a wide selection of other dishes that are wonderful. I am especially fond of the fish that is sautéed without breading; it's mild and has a delicate flavor.  The cheese maki is something I also like, as well as the fried noodles. 

Upon returning home, we had a nice visit with Craig. We told him that we'll have to take him to Mont Fuji soon! And then, we straightened the house and began to make preparations for dinner that evening. We had invited Arno over for a barbecue, but the weather was still cold and blustery, so we decided to eat indoors. Our friend arrived with the ingredients for margaritas and soon we were all relaxing with a tasty drink as we nibbled on cheese, chips, and some yummy bacon-wrapped prunes that Desmond had quickly made. I helped Des prepare the caprese salads, which were lovely with green, red, orange, and yellow heirloom tomatoes layered with buffalo mozzarella and drizzled with basil-infused olive oil. Our main course was tasty grilled Toulouse sausages and butter-thyme potatoes. By the time we finished all of that, there was no room for dessert! But we certainly had a fun evening talking and laughing and telling funny family stories, which led to looking at old photos. It was a good night.

Time for Me to Fly

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: April 13, 2015

My long-awaited travel day had finally arrived! After a short flight and a long layover on Sunday from Wichita to Chicago, I boarded the Boeing 767 for Paris. Imagine my delight when I discovered that I had no seat-mates! It was a first for me to be able to spread out and relax on an overnight flight. I was even able to sleep for a couple of hours, curled on the seats in warm socks and cuddling my own comfy travel pillow. As the plane approached Paris, the clouds thinned and I had a lovely glimpse the beautiful countryside below.

Approaching Paris. 

The terminal was surprisingly uncrowded that morning. I was able to retrieve my luggage quickly and easily. Upon entering the arrivals area, I spotted Desmond, who was grinning from ear to ear, as I was. It was so good to see him again! After hugs, kisses, and a few happy tears, we were soon on our way to Orléans. The weather was gorgeous, sunny and cool, as we sped south.

I loved the new apartment! It's on an upper floor, which allows for cool breezes and better security. It is truly a comfortable home and even though Desmond had been living there only a short time, it was already nicely furnished and filled with good vibes. I loved the layout, with the two bedrooms being separated by a large entryway, kitchen, bath, and the living area. There were colorful pots of herbs on the wide windowsills, and even some cherry tomato plants! 

Colorful pots of herbs on the windowsill.

The guest room, which is also Desmond's office, was quite roomy and had a view of a small tree-lined square and several half-timbered buildings. A bar/cafe, a bakery, and other shops are just steps away. The river is very close, though it can't actually be seen from the windows. We stowed my luggage in the room and went out in search of a bite to eat. As we approached the cafe, we noticed a couple of friends, Fanny and Ficus, having lunch there! We pulled over another table and enjoyed our lunch as we visited with them. 

The charming views from my window.

The food at the cafe was very good. Des ordered the plat du jour, which was fragrant, herb-roasted chicken and potatoes accompanied by a zucchini gratin and ratatouille. I opted for the croque monsieur, which was served with fries and a salad. Des had to leave for work soon after our meal, but I walked across the Loire to a market for fresh vegetables and continued on to the artisan bakery for some rustic chestnut-apple-walnut bread. It was wonderful to be strolling along those familiar cobblestone streets once again. I felt very much at home. I finished my shopping with a visit to the French Coffee shop, where I relaxed over a tasty coffee creation before meandering back toward home. 

Rue de Borgogne, one of my favorite streets in Orléans.

After Desmond returned, we worked happily in the kitchen, where we roasted veggies and toasted the fresh bread. The bread was then spread with herbed goat cheese, layered with vegetables, and topped with thinly sliced ham. It was a simple and delicious meal that we all relished. I had brought Azur some kitty treats from America and began a nightly ritual with him of "foreign" food and pats from his cat-loving guest. Later, Des had papers to grade and I was worn out from traveling, so I went to bed early. I don't think I ever stopped smiling, even in my sleep.

My blue-eyed buddy, Azur, saying good night.

Our Last Day in Annecy

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 23, 2014

It was our last day in Annecy. I wasn't at all sure that I was ready to leave this amazing and idyllic locale. It was just so beautiful and interesting, not to mention delicious! Of course, we had to pay a visit to our favorite little bakery just around the corner. Along with our morning pastries and coffee, we purchased a freshly baked baguette for our evening picnic.

It was time for us to explore the ancient Palais d'Isle, which had already appeared in many of our photos. It is, after all, one of the most photographed sights in Annecy. This 12th century structure was once a palace, and then a courthouse, a mint, and a prison. It is not grand or ornate, but still possesses a certain allure. The palace now houses a museum, and that was where we headed. 

Palais d'Isle, Annecy, France

Inside, we found intriguing displays and old prison cells. The medieval cells were not as gruesome and frightening as I had expected, though I couldn't imagine what it must have been like to be imprisoned within those thick, cold stone walls. The Palais sits on a triangular islet in the middle of the Canal du Thiou; it must have always been damp and cold inside. There is a tiny courtyard attached to the building. I wondered if prisoners were allowed outside for a breath of fresh air now and then. 

Thick stone walls and iron bars.

Equipment used for minting coins.

The courtyard of Palais d'Isle.

When we left the Palais d'Isle and were once again out in the balmy air, we located a small market where we purchased goodies for our evening picnic. We went back to the hotel for a rest and to catch up on email, and then set out for the park near Lake Annecy. Jardins de l'Europe is a huge and beautiful park beside the sparkling turquoise lake. There are many gorgeous flowers, fountains, statuary, and the looming Alps reflected in the water. 

 What an incredible view!

We spread our picnic upon an old beach towel beneath the shade of a chestnut tree. The three of us gazed at the incredible scenery as we munched our way through tapenade, pork rillettes, duck mousse, a baguette, cheese, sausage, chips, pistachios, fresh strawberries and a Tropezienne. I enjoyed a bottle of Pecheresse, my favorite peach beer. It was a relaxing and wonderful meal. We lingered until twilight fell, and then made our way back to the hotel.

 Our picnic in the park.

 Another beautiful view.

Au revoir, Annecy! I'll return someday.

Friends, Family, and Food

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, April 17

We slept late and after a breakfast of the usual delightful pastries, Desmond and I set about picking up the house, washing laundry, and doing a bit of shopping. The following day, we had plans to visit Tours, a lovely town located southwest of Orléans. We knew that would be a long day, with no time for shopping or chores, and since Craig would be arriving on Saturday morning, we wanted to have our household duties out of the way.

A small section of the wine selection at the local market.

The highlight of the day was dejeuner at Chez Ming with one of Desmond's colleagues, Chris. They have become friends over the months, working together. I had met him briefly at the university and looked forward to a chat with him over lunch. We met as soon as Ming's opened for the day, so that Mathieu could stop in and have a meal, too, before heading off to his job. Miranda, who is co-owner of Chez Ming with her husband, welcomed us warmly. The restaurant was soon filled with hungry customers enjoying the buffet. The food there is quite good, as I have mentioned in previous posts, and I highly recommend the place.

Chris hails from New Zealand, and talked a bit about his home. We discussed many subjects, including the earthquakes in New Zealand and the tornadoes in Kansas. Perhaps it's only because I have grown up in Kansas, but if I had to make a choice between tornadoes or earthquakes, I'd choose the twisters. At least you have some warning!

 I like the brickwork on this house in Orléans.

A beautiful dog on a boat along the Loire.

After lunch, Des and I went shopping. We stopped in at little bargain store (everything 2 euros!) and had a bit of fun there. Desmond found some slates which are perfect for serving sushi or charcuterie. At the food market, we purchased some "paupiettes de veau" which are little bundles of stuffed veal. He prepared them that evening in a mushroom-cream sauce. Served over rice, with veggies on the side, the paupiettes were fabulous! There are many recipes for this dish on the Internet, and I may have to give one a try, after this.

Paupiettes de veau, a traditional French dish.

A Picnic in the Park

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal:  April 16, 2014

I can't believe this weather! It's magnificent! This is what Spring is supposed to be like. Today I was able to go with Desmond to the university, where I met his colleagues and some of his students. One of the other teachers is from the northern coast of Ireland. She is petite and adorable and I love her accent. It was so nice to have a bit of time to converse with her. Another of Desmond's colleagues is a very sweet lady from Arkansas. We're practically neighbors! 

Seen at Parc Floral, Orléans.

Des was essentially working a split shift, and so as lunchtime neared, we picked up some sandwiches and headed over to Parc Floral. It was the perfect place to pass the time on such a lovely day. There were many flowers in bloom, and we had our picnic there. A bunch of peacocks wanted to join us! There was a large group of very young children there, apparently on a school field trip. They were fascinated with the peacocks, and were following the colorful birds as far as their chaperons would allow. We walked around a lot, visited the butterfly house, and enjoyed a hilarious game of miniature golf. 

An inquisitive peacock at Parc Floral. "What's for lunch?"

These trees are so cute! They look like something from a Dr. Seuss book.

Photographed at Parc Floral, Orléans, France.

Miniature golf at Parc Floral was fun.

This was one of the more challenging and hilarious holes.

That evening, we cooked together. I put together honey pork with roasted potatoes, and Des made roasted broccoli, which is so tasty I could eat it nearly every day. We ended our day with a board game and raspberry macarons. Life is good!

A last look at Parc Floral.

Crepe-making Lessons

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal:  April 13, 2014

That Sunday, we awoke to another beautiful spring morning. We didn't have big plans for the day, but were content to just linger over our coffee before we set out to find pastries. I don't expect to be constantly entertained by Desmond. I have never been one to cram my vacation days full of activities. I prefer a more relaxed pace. I enjoy exploring and becoming familiar with the area in which I find myself. We wandered around in the sunshine after breakfast, eventually climbing a staircase to the small park atop the movie theater near the Loire. It's a sweet little place, with a tiny playground and lots of shade. Blooming plants brightened the space and surrounded us with their fragrance.

Looking toward the Loire from the park.

Home again, we spent some time on chores, straightening the apartment and washing dishes. I checked my email and sent off a couple of greetings to family back home. As lunchtime drew near, we decided to walk over to the new restaurant, Oh, Terroir. Des had eaten there on several occasions and knew it would be something I'd enjoy. Oh, Terroir specializes in healthy dishes which are made from locally sourced products. Since the Loire valley is such a fertile and abundant place, I knew I was in for a treat. After you step inside the restaurant, you select your meal using the computerized screens. You first choose a base of half-grain pasta, quinoa, lentils, or spelt. Your next step is to choose a topping and any other added ingredients from the many choices on offer. You can also select a beverage and dessert at this time. 

Lunch at "Oh, Terroir" was wonderful!

I had heard of spelt, which is an ancient ancestor of wheat, but had never tried it. That was my selection. I had it topped with a light creamy Dijon and ham sauce. It was sprinkled liberally with chives and freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and it was so good that I later attempted to recreate this dish at home. (You'll find the recipe below.) Desmond chose a chicken curry over spelt. We were very pleased. It was a delightful lunch in a lovely setting. The restaurant is decorated in colors of lime, chocolate, and pewter in a very modern style. We sat at a table in the loft, which gave us a nice view both inside and out. If you are ever in the area, you must stop for a meal there. It's quick, reasonably priced, and delicious.

On our way home, we shopped in Halles Chatelet for a few ingredients that we would need to prepare supper that evening. I enjoy shopping there, or just looking around. The grocery market takes up a large space within the mall, with a variety of shops selling everything from fresh fish to macarons. Halles Chatelet was begun in 1882 and was then an open market. The mall was built over the original market site in 1977, with a more recent renovation being done in 2005. 

That night, Desmond's friend Mathieu came over.  We were to receive crepe-making lessons from Desmond, which resulted in a hilarious time and a delightful meal! Mathieu caught on to the process very quickly, but my arthritic wrist made it difficult for me to make a smooth, flat swipe around the pan. Still, they were delicious, even if the crepes weren't shaped exactly right. We had ham, two kinds of cheese, and some caramelized onions to put inside the crepes. We laughed so hard when Mathieu decided to take a shortcut by cracking an egg atop his crepe before folding it over. The egg slowly slid off of the crepe, off of the pan, and then onto the table where it slithered beneath the microwave. We were helpless to stop it; we were laughing too hard! We ended that fun meal with dessert crepes. My favorite was a simple lemon juice and sugar crepe. What a fun evening! 

A savory crepe is actually called a gallette. 

Whatever the name, they were yummy!

RECIPE: Dijon-ham sauce. To recreate the meal I enjoyed at Oh, Terroir, I started by making a simple white sauce, but substituted some chicken broth and white wine for about half the milk. I whisked in some Dijon mustard, about two to three teaspoons per cup of white sauce. I also seasoned it with a bit of salt and pepper, but remember to go easy on the salt if you will be using ham  After the sauce had thickened, I stirred in diced ham and heated the mixture through. I the poured this over half-grain pasta (as I hadn't found spelt berries at that time) and sprinkled the dish liberally with Parmesan cheese and fresh chives. It's a keeper!

I Can't Stop Smiling

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 11, 2014

I was thrilled to be back in Orléans and looked forward to quality time with Desmond, who was almost finished with school for the term. We caught up over a cold beer and some of my favorite chips. I tried some new ones, too - Roast Chicken flavor, and Carbonara. After a bit, we decided to walk around for a while, as it was just too beautiful to stay indoors. There were flowers blooming everywhere, and many of the window boxes were filled with cheerful blossoms. Quite a few people were out and about, enjoying the perfect springtime weather. We stopped in at Halles Chatelet for some things for dinner. And some pastries, of course! On our way home, we took a small detour which led us to the broad expanse of cobblestones along the river Loire. The avenue next to the river was lovely, with nearly every tree leafed out and reflected in the water below. There is a wide sidewalk along the river also, and it was put to good use by the many joggers, bicyclers, and pedestrians all enjoying the peaceful, cool evening. 

The beautiful river Loire draws people to its banks on a fine evening.

Cheerful spring blossoms.

For supper, Desmond created a delicious meal of pasta with a sauce made of duck mousse, cream, and truffle oil. The dish was topped with some thinly sliced Italian ham and was absolutely wonderful. The roasted broccoli was a perfect accompaniment. (I wish I would have snapped a photo of that delightful meal.) My son is an accomplished and creative cook. If there is a product that he has trouble locating in his new home country, he will simply make the item from scratch.

 The bakery in Halles Chatelet is one of my favorite shops.

We played a game after dinner, and then devoured the pastries we had picked up earlier – a lemon tart, a caramel éclair, and an amandine cassis. We attempted to watch a movie, but I kept nodding off!  I had been up for over 28 hours. Desmond made up a bed for me with his new mattress, which was very comfortable. I fell asleep with a smile on my face, so happy to be in France once again.