Auvergne Adventure

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 7 2024

We woke at 5:30 and had a quick breakfast of coffee, bread, and spreads. We three were going to set out an adventure with Vincent. Desmond, Craig, and I had packed the night before and after throwing the last few items into our bags, we met Vincent, loaded the car, and set off for the Auvergne. He asked if we minded not taking the toll highway, and we said that would be great, as we loved passing through villages and being able to enjoy all of the beautiful scenery. On the toll roads, there are high embankments which would have prevented us from enjoying the views of countryside. The disadvantage is that there are no rest stops with clean, modern bathrooms, convenience stores, and restaurants. However, every lovely town we drove through had a public toilet which was usually in a town square. For the most part, they were very clean. Many of them have a self-cleaning feature that activates when the patron exits. I did have to use a squat toilet once, but at least it had grab bars! On the road, we passed many lovely sights. Wildflowers bloomed, crops flourished, and cattle grazed on lush pastures. We spied the occasional chateau nearly hidden in the forest. We stopped in La Châtré, because it was market day. It’s always a pleasure to stroll up and down market streets lined with tables, booths, and farm trucks. 

I love the outdoor markets in France!

We selected items for a picnic lunch, choosing fresh baguettes, newly strawberries, cheese, wine, and olives. Craig and I bought sausages flavored with fig, or cheese, or hazelnuts. We saw booths selling local honey, chocolates, toys, fresh fish, clothing, leather goods, jewelry, and other delights. There were vendors offering freshly prepared hot food items, which were selling fast. All of the different aromas were enticing, but we had to get back on the road. We drove through some pretty villages, such as tiny Jarnages, which was ancient and well kept. The origins of Jarnages date back to Gallo-Roman times. Cressat, a little town about the same size as Jarnages, was also lovely. The landscape became more and more beautiful as we gained some altitude.

We had reached the region in which there were many extinct volcanoes, and the views were gorgeous. After parking the car, we gathered our lunch items and followed a wide, rocky pathway toward a valley that had been carved out by glaciers long ago. We stopped at a spring for a refreshing drink and the continued our trek.

We arrived at the valley and found a grassy place in the sun to have our picnic. The scenery was beautiful and there were patches of snow on the peaks, glistening brightly. 

We were glad to have worn our jackets, since there was a sharp, cool breeze swirling through. As we ate, we watched a few climbers high up on the ridges of the valleys. Desmond told me that he and Vincent had hiked around the entire valley, along those high ridges! I can imagine how breathtaking that must have been. From where we were sitting, we could see fast-flowing streams, forested slopes, and some waterfalls leaping down the cliff faces.

After our tasty picnic, the four of us returned to the car. We drove through more of the incredible landscape. Farms and tiny villages were nestled far below in folds of velvety green. Before long, we arrived at our gîte, where we would stay for a couple of nights. It was absolutely charming, with a patio that overlooked a valley dotted with dairy cattle and was bordered by a swift stream.

We enjoyed our stay at this charming gite.

The cottage contained everything we needed, and I loved the big farm table. In the refrigerator was a large wheel of cheese that Vincent and Desmond had reserved for us. The St. Nectaire cheese is a specialty of the region, made from the fresh milk of the cows we could see in the valley. We settled in and relaxed for a while. Vincent made delicious mushroom and cheese omelets for supper, which we enjoyed with a baguette, olives, and strawberries. We played a game of Mexican Train before heading off to bed. What a fantastic day!

If you get the chance to try St. Nectaire cheese,
you won't regret it!

Not Just Another New Year’s Eve

Pages from Jan’s Travel Journal: Monday, December 31, 2018

New Years Eve. I can’t say that the three of us were in a festive mood. It was our last full day in France before Craig and I flew home to face the funeral of our beloved mom, Ruby. It would be hard to leave Desmond to mourn on his own. We ate breakfast and then began packing our bags and cleaning the apartment. We left the luggage inside and headed out on a last exploration of Lyon. 

A lovely building near our apartment in Lyon

Our view crossing a bridge in Lyon on a cold winter day

Our first stop was the Cinema Museum in old Lyon, which houses over 450 movie sets and props. The main exhibition room contained many of the sets from the movie “Parfum”, which was a very creepy film. The sets were intricately detailed and quite fascinating. There were props from dozens of well-known movies which we really enjoyed viewing. We saw Harry Potter’s wand and learned that the studio had to keep making replacements because Daniel Radcliffe would nervously scratch the paint off of them. I enjoyed seeing many of the props from one of my favorite movies, Amélie. We saw Mrs Doubtfire memorabilia, costumes from Star Wars, Mary Poppins’ umbrella, and so much more! 

This is a full-sized movie set from Parfum.

Another movie set from Parfum

Props from Amélie,
one of my favorite movies

Props from the movie "Mrs Doubtfire"

There was also an exhibit of miniature interior scenes. My favorite was a restaurant, with tables no more than a couple of inches high. They were fully decorated with table linens, flowers, candles, tiny plates, cutlery, wine glasses, and even baskets of bread! I wish I would have gotten a picture of it. I did get a shot of an little apartment scene.

A very detailed scene in miniature

After that, Craig returned to the apartment for a rest. Desmond and I wandered around looking for a place to have lunch. We ate at a very crowded Italian restaurant and were lucky to find a table. Des ordered a tasty truffle ravioli and I chose a creamy chicken and mushroom pasta bowl. We did a bit of shopping after lunch, which was fun, but I was glad to return to our apartment. The temperature had dropped and the afternoon had become quite cold. 

A chilly day in Lyon, France

It was soon time to leave for the train station. We had hired an Uber, and it was a long ride to the station. I wondered if we were going to just ride all the way to Paris! The Gare de Lyon was a very open, modern looking structure, but it was absolutely freezing inside. Our train was late arriving and we endured a lengthy wait in a long line before we finally boarded. 

The train car was warm, at least. We soon settled in. Desmond contacted the host of our AirBnB to let her know we were running late and was assured that it wouldn’t be a problem. Months previously, I had made the effort to find a luxurious place with a balcony and a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower for our New Year’s Eve celebration. (Not that we were now in any mood to celebrate.) It was to have been a special treat before Craig headed back home, while I would have returned to Orléans with Desmond for another ten days. 

We became concerned when our host did not give us the full address of the AirBnB. Each time we sent a text, it took longer and longer for her to respond. We also needed the entry code to the building, but she told us to just stand outside and wait for someone to exit the building and then just slip inside! We were unwilling to do that and still she had not told us the apartment number, but simply said that the key was under the door mat! Apparently she expected us to enter the building illegally and then start looking beneath random door mats! 

By this time, the train was nearly due to arrive at our station. Several times, we tried calling the host, but got no answer. Desmond suggested that we remain on the train, which terminated at the airport. We decided to do that and explain to the conductor our dilemma while offering to pay the additional cost. However, the conductor never came into our car to check our tickets. Meanwhile, I was on my phone reserving a triple room at the airport Ibis Hotel. 

We arrived at the station and had begun walking the short distance to our hotel when Desmond spotted a Marks and Spencer! Craig patiently waited in the hallway with our luggage while Des and I darted into the busy store. We selected items for our New Year’s Eve "dinner" and Des found us a nice bottle of champagne. 

Within minutes of settling into our room at the Ibis, we received a call from our AirBnB host. She claimed her phone had gone dead, yet we could hear that she obviously was at a party. Could she not have used another phone? She became a bit angry when we told her we were not going to stay at her apartment and that we would be requesting a refund. (The corporate office of AirBnB arbitrated the dispute and I am happy to report that we received a full refund.)

We spent the last few hours of 2018 reminiscing about mom/grandma. We shed some tears but also laughed a lot over the many happy memories of that very special woman who never allowed Alzheimer’s disease to destroy her bright smile and loving heart. Between the stories and sips of champagne with which we made a toast to mom, we munched on stuffed grape leaves, sausage, tiny sweet peppers filled with cheese, savory crackers, a baguette and some lovely cantal, with crisp Florentine cookies and spicy mince pies for dessert. 

Our midnight supper on New Year's Eve
 in the airport hotel

While it certainly wasn’t the celebration we had planned, the three of us had made the best of it and found some happiness with which to ring in the new year. Instead of a view of the Eiffel Tower, we had a view of the parking lot. But we also had each other, and hearts full of love and special memories. 

Christmas Day in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, Dec. 25 2018

Christmas Day dawned sunny but cold. Our first thoughts were on our other loved ones back home, though it was much too early to call any of them. We hoped that someone would be visiting mom in the nursing home. It's possible that she may not have realized that it was Christmas day, but she still deserved attention from her family, regardless. Craig and I had coffee together before walking over to Desmond's place. He greeted us with steaming mugs of rich hot chocolate. The house looked very festive, with the fat stockings on the mantel and twinkling lights on the tree. 

Christmas day in Orleans France

With Christmas carols playing in the background, the three of us took our time opening gifts and "unstuffing" our Christmas stockings. There was lots of laughter and plenty of nice surprises. Desmond especially loved the apron we had given him. It was from the Mennonite Heritage Museum in Goessel, Kansas and featured embroidered zwieback on the bib. Those little rolls, translated as "two breads" are a popular addition to many Mennonite meals.

Desmond tries on his new apron.

Azur joined the festivities.

Because this was the first sunny day since our arrival in France, we decided to go for a walk. The town was very quiet, as I'm sure many families were occupied in the same manner as we had been. Even though the temperature hovered at the freezing mark, we still enjoyed our little stroll. 

In the afternoon, Jeff and Arno arrived within minutes of each other. It was wonderful to have them with us for at least a part of the holiday. We poured drinks and nibbled on Christmas goodies as we chatted. Des was popping into the kitchen at intervals, and some very enticing aromas were filling the air. He really went all out to prepare a magnificent Christmas feast.

We began our meal with apéro, which consisted of more drinks accompanied by a beautifully arranged planche heaped with sausage, pistachios, Gouda walnut crackers, figs, escargot crackers, tiny pickles, and pate en croute. That kept us occupied for a while! Our next course was smoked trout blini. It was very tasty and I preferred it over smoked salmon. We were off to a great start.

What a great start to our meal!

After a while, Desmond presented us with a lovely tray of foie gras with plenty of toasted brioche accompanied by little pots of sea salt, onion confit and fig jam. By this point, I was feeling the need for another walk!

The foie gras was irresistible.

As the festive meal continued, Desmond served a tender, juicy, cider roasted capon, along with sweet potato casserole, braised chestnuts, and fresh, soft rolls. The capon stole the show; it was simply delectable. 

The delightful main course.

The traditional cheese course followed that sumptuous spread. Des had arranged the Gouda, goat cheese, and a tasty local cheese from Olivet on a tray with plenty of seeded crackers to go with it. I enjoyed sampling the cheese, but didn’t overdo it as I knew dessert was still to come. 

Time for some tasty cheese

Jeff had contributed spicy mince pies from Marks and Spencer for dessert, and we also had a layered ice cream cake. The champagne was poured and we all toasted the season as we savored the last bites of that incredible meal. How wonderful it was to share that time with our son and his friends, who over the years have become our friends, too. It was indeed a very special Christmas Day. 

Time for a toast. 

Flavorful mince pies

And ice cream cake to end the meal

Our Christmas Eve in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, Dec. 24 2018

Christmas Eve! It was strange not to be at home for Christmas; it was definitely a first for us. Craig and I were thrilled to be spending the holiday in France with our son. I had switched on the two sparkling Christmas trees in our apartment before I headed into the kitchen to make coffee. The tree provided by our host was in the place of honor atop the mantel and was surrounded by some of the small gifts I had wrapped previously. I had hung our stockings there to complete the festive look, though we would take them to Desmond’s house later. The tiny tree was on our little dining table and provided another touch of color. 

Des came over with a box of pastries. The kouigin-amann was a delectable surprise. That sweet, flaky, buttery pastry is a traditional Breton delight. We also shared a yummy lemon tart as we planned our day. 

The kouigin-amann is a delight!

We had some grocery shopping to do, but first needed to stop at the pet shop to purchase food for Azur. As the three of us were approaching the shop, we saw a little girl leaving with her parents. Her eyes were sparkling and in her arms she cradled a large water-filled plastic bag in which a goldfish was swimming. The child had a huge smile on her face and both of her arms were wrapped around the bag protectively. As she lagged behind her parents, we saw her lift the bag and put her cheek against it as she gave it a gentle hug. She hugged her goldfish! That was one of the cutest things we had ever seen. For the rest of the day, one or the other of us would break into a smile or chuckle as we recalled it. It’s too bad her parents missed that special moment. 

Lost in translation?

The grocery store was very crowded, as we knew it would be, but it was fun. The store was packed with shoppers milling about selecting delicacies for their holiday feasts, while wide-eyed children waited in line to chat with Pere Noël. We wove through the crowds and managed to find everything we needed. After returning to Desmond’s place, we put away the groceries and then Des whipped up a lunch of vegetarian steak patties, potato puffs, and clémentines.

Those aren't cucumbers, they're avocados!

After laundry and a few other chores, we couldn’t resist a final visit to the Christmas market. The three of us bundled up and walked into the center of town. Of course, everyone had the same idea and the square was crowded with families. 

Enticing aromas of waffles, tartiflette, and roasted chestnuts wafted through the square. The hut with the biggest crowd was the one selling mulled wine, but the line moved quickly and we were soon sipping cups of that warm, spiced wine. Our next stop was for hot roasted chestnuts, which were scooped into a paper cone. Yum! 

Mulled wine is very popular on a chilly evening.

Craig and Des enjoying hot mulled wine
 at the Christmas market in Orleans, France

Roasted chestnuts were a treat

As sunset approached, we decided to ride the Ferris wheel. The lights on the candy striped-wheel were sparkling, as were the ones hung in swags from the wooden huts on the square. We enjoyed the view, though we were becoming chilled. It was time retrace our steps back across the bridge.

A view of the Christmas market from the Ferris Wheel

Another view from the big wheel

In France, most families have an elaborate meal on Christmas eve. Des had planned differently since he wanted to include Jeff and also Arno, who were not available until Christmas Day. He put together a quick and delicious cheese fondue for our Christmas Eve supper. There were chunks of baguette, salami, ham, cooked potato, apple, and blanched broccoli to dip into the melted cheese. There was chocolate fondue for dessert, which we ate with caramel corn, pieces of waffle, and slices of banana and orange. It was a fun and festive meal. 

Christmas Eve fondue

We ended the evening by watching nostalgic Christmas shows, after which we stuffed the stockings and propped them carefully on the mantel. It had been such a fun day. 

Shopping and Eating. What's Not to Like?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 22 2018

After coffee and Madeleines, Craig and I made our way to Desmond’s where we enjoyed more coffee with some chocolate and banana breakfast cookies that our son had made.The plan for the day was to get serious about Christmas shopping. We decided it would be best to split up, so Craig and Des headed for the Christmas market while I wandered around town. I enjoyed popping into interesting little shops and choosing small items for stocking stuffers.

Craig captured this view from the Ferris wheel.

At lunchtime, we met at the little noodle shop on the square near Desmond’s apartment. We watched the owner making fresh noodles as our own dishes were being prepared by his wife. When our food arrived, we eagerly dug into the garlicky noodles, pork, and vegetables. It was a delicious and satisfying lunch. As we were eating, the little cat who lives in the building next to Desmond came to the door of the noodle shop, begging for a handout. The owners told us that this little "stray" shows up every day and they just couldn't resist her. Lily was busted when Des explained that she was not a stray, and we all had a good laugh! I'm surprised the cat isn't overweight, because she always looking for a bit to eat at the different establishments on the square.

Fresh noodles? Yes, please!

A delicious lunchtime treat

After our meal, Craig went out shopping alone while Des and I teamed up and headed back into town. We had such a good time, and Des took me to some unique shops I hadn’t visited before. I am always eager to step into the chocolate shops! The aroma alone is a treat. They have such enticing displays and really go over the top at Christmas, which makes those beautiful little works of edible art even more irresistible. One shop even had a chocolate waterfall pouring down an inside wall! 

A pretty side street in Orléans

Later, we spotted Arno and a friend of his at the Christmas market. We shopped a bit with them and then decided to meet Craig at le Lutetia for coffee. We sat there for quite a while, enjoying our hot drinks in the bustling restaurant.

Père Noël is in charge of this roller coaster!

Oh, coffee, I love you too!

 
After returning to Desmond’s place, we had an easy meal of egg sandwiches and chips. We ended the evening with a board game before heading home to our own little nest. 

Cuddles with Azur

Making a List (of what to pack)

Well, it's nearly time to start packing! In less than three weeks, Craig and I will be experiencing the Christmas season in France! We can hardly wait to see our son, and look forward to sharing the delights of the holiday with him. 

There is much to do here at home before we go. We will celebrate an early Christmas with our daughters and their families. We're grateful that some of them will be house-sitting for us and taking care of our dog and cat. Spending time with both of our moms ranks high on our list as well. It's difficult to think about leaving those two sweet ladies for a few weeks, though we know they'll be well cared for in our absence. This will actually be our first Christmas away from Kansas! 

Oliver, watching for squirrels.

This is what Bella does when she sees our suitcases.

While in France, we will be taking a side trip with Desmond to visit Lyon for a few days. Des was there briefly a couple of years ago and has told us about some of the interesting sights to explore, from the Roman ruins to the lifelike murals, the museums, and so much more. 

On New Year's eve we'll travel to Paris, where we will enjoy a special treat. I have reserved an apartment which has a partial view of the Eiffel Tower! We can toast the new year while viewing the fireworks display without having to leave our lodgings. Craig must fly back to the U.S. the next day, due to commitments at work. Desmond and I will return to Orléans, where I can enjoy another nine days with him. 

May your holiday season be filled with love and laughter. Best wishes to all of you in the coming year. 

Checking In

I have been on hiatus for a few months, and now it's time to let everyone know I'm still around! It's amazing how active the lives of retired persons can be. Craig and I have been busy this spring and summer with projects around the house, the yard and garden, visits to and errands for both of our mothers, and a myriad of other activities. 

A recent visitor

This is part of the lovely courtyard my mom enjoys.

In April, it felt strange not to be flying to Europe. When Kansas summer weather began in June, my thoughts returned to France and the good times we had enjoyed there last year with Desmond. Though we struggled through a few exceptionally hot days, we all managed to have a splendid vacation.

Our next visit to France will be very different from previous years. We have decided to spend Christmas with Desmond! Our plane tickets have been purchased (at an amazingly low price) and our lodging has been reserved and paid for. We are thrilled to be staying in a little apartment merely a two-minute walk from Desmond's place.

Over the years, I have seen many beautiful photos and articles regarding the Christmas markets in France. Desmond has described them as well, and we are looking forward to the experience. Mulled wine, hot chestnuts, and handmade gifts are only a few of the delights that await. 

It will be a treat to enjoy the festive season with our son.This will be the longest time we will have been apart since his move to France. We miss him terribly, and though we are thankful for FaceTime and text messages, we want more! Anticipation is a good thing, though, isn't it?

Summer in Kansas is too hot
 for even the squirrels!