A Day for Friends

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, December 27 2019

Waking to a chilly morning, we were grateful for the warm radiators in our little apartment. They kept us very cozy as we sipped our coffee. Craig enjoyed his online newspaper while I composed a couple of email messages for loved ones back home.

We joined Desmond for a bit of grocery shopping, and of course we had to pick up some pastries on our way home. I chose a lemon turnover which was delightful. 

Around noon, we made our way to the Rue de Bourgogne so that we could have lunch at Chez Ming. It had definitely become a tradition for us during every visit to Orléans. It was good to see Miranda again. She always makes us feel very welcome and it’s obvious that she has a genuine affection for Des. As usual, the freshly prepared food was wonderful. 

In the afternoon, we met up with Desmond’s friend and colleague, Isobel, at a new tea shop called Ex Libris. We enjoyed tea and hot chocolate in a cozily cluttered atmosphere stuffed with books, art, unique decorative objects, and charming mismatched furniture. Festive Christmas decorations added to the ambiance. The service was slow, but we chalked it up to the staff still learning the ropes at a fledgling business. The four of us visited comfortably, chatting about the holidays and our upcoming journey to Lyon. I don't know why I didn't take pictures in the tea shop, because it really was very charming.

Cathedral St Croix on a misty day.

That evening, Chris came over for dinner, bringing his toddler son along. We were delighted to see them both. Robin was adorable and very entertaining; we loved hearing him chatter in a mixture of French and English. Our apéro of chips, sausage, and pate en croute was accompanied by a refreshing fruity beer. That was followed by Desmond's delicious pot au feu, served with bread, butter and mustard. We talked, laughed, and lingered around the table for quite some time, and finished the meal with Christmas goodies of chocolates and “puppy chow”. 

Desmond relaxing at home.

Christmas Day in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, Dec. 25 2018

Christmas Day dawned sunny but cold. Our first thoughts were on our other loved ones back home, though it was much too early to call any of them. We hoped that someone would be visiting mom in the nursing home. It's possible that she may not have realized that it was Christmas day, but she still deserved attention from her family, regardless. Craig and I had coffee together before walking over to Desmond's place. He greeted us with steaming mugs of rich hot chocolate. The house looked very festive, with the fat stockings on the mantel and twinkling lights on the tree. 

Christmas day in Orleans France

With Christmas carols playing in the background, the three of us took our time opening gifts and "unstuffing" our Christmas stockings. There was lots of laughter and plenty of nice surprises. Desmond especially loved the apron we had given him. It was from the Mennonite Heritage Museum in Goessel, Kansas and featured embroidered zwieback on the bib. Those little rolls, translated as "two breads" are a popular addition to many Mennonite meals.

Desmond tries on his new apron.

Azur joined the festivities.

Because this was the first sunny day since our arrival in France, we decided to go for a walk. The town was very quiet, as I'm sure many families were occupied in the same manner as we had been. Even though the temperature hovered at the freezing mark, we still enjoyed our little stroll. 

In the afternoon, Jeff and Arno arrived within minutes of each other. It was wonderful to have them with us for at least a part of the holiday. We poured drinks and nibbled on Christmas goodies as we chatted. Des was popping into the kitchen at intervals, and some very enticing aromas were filling the air. He really went all out to prepare a magnificent Christmas feast.

We began our meal with apéro, which consisted of more drinks accompanied by a beautifully arranged planche heaped with sausage, pistachios, Gouda walnut crackers, figs, escargot crackers, tiny pickles, and pate en croute. That kept us occupied for a while! Our next course was smoked trout blini. It was very tasty and I preferred it over smoked salmon. We were off to a great start.

What a great start to our meal!

After a while, Desmond presented us with a lovely tray of foie gras with plenty of toasted brioche accompanied by little pots of sea salt, onion confit and fig jam. By this point, I was feeling the need for another walk!

The foie gras was irresistible.

As the festive meal continued, Desmond served a tender, juicy, cider roasted capon, along with sweet potato casserole, braised chestnuts, and fresh, soft rolls. The capon stole the show; it was simply delectable. 

The delightful main course.

The traditional cheese course followed that sumptuous spread. Des had arranged the Gouda, goat cheese, and a tasty local cheese from Olivet on a tray with plenty of seeded crackers to go with it. I enjoyed sampling the cheese, but didn’t overdo it as I knew dessert was still to come. 

Time for some tasty cheese

Jeff had contributed spicy mince pies from Marks and Spencer for dessert, and we also had a layered ice cream cake. The champagne was poured and we all toasted the season as we savored the last bites of that incredible meal. How wonderful it was to share that time with our son and his friends, who over the years have become our friends, too. It was indeed a very special Christmas Day. 

Time for a toast. 

Flavorful mince pies

And ice cream cake to end the meal

Shopping and Eating. What's Not to Like?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 22 2018

After coffee and Madeleines, Craig and I made our way to Desmond’s where we enjoyed more coffee with some chocolate and banana breakfast cookies that our son had made.The plan for the day was to get serious about Christmas shopping. We decided it would be best to split up, so Craig and Des headed for the Christmas market while I wandered around town. I enjoyed popping into interesting little shops and choosing small items for stocking stuffers.

Craig captured this view from the Ferris wheel.

At lunchtime, we met at the little noodle shop on the square near Desmond’s apartment. We watched the owner making fresh noodles as our own dishes were being prepared by his wife. When our food arrived, we eagerly dug into the garlicky noodles, pork, and vegetables. It was a delicious and satisfying lunch. As we were eating, the little cat who lives in the building next to Desmond came to the door of the noodle shop, begging for a handout. The owners told us that this little "stray" shows up every day and they just couldn't resist her. Lily was busted when Des explained that she was not a stray, and we all had a good laugh! I'm surprised the cat isn't overweight, because she always looking for a bit to eat at the different establishments on the square.

Fresh noodles? Yes, please!

A delicious lunchtime treat

After our meal, Craig went out shopping alone while Des and I teamed up and headed back into town. We had such a good time, and Des took me to some unique shops I hadn’t visited before. I am always eager to step into the chocolate shops! The aroma alone is a treat. They have such enticing displays and really go over the top at Christmas, which makes those beautiful little works of edible art even more irresistible. One shop even had a chocolate waterfall pouring down an inside wall! 

A pretty side street in Orléans

Later, we spotted Arno and a friend of his at the Christmas market. We shopped a bit with them and then decided to meet Craig at le Lutetia for coffee. We sat there for quite a while, enjoying our hot drinks in the bustling restaurant.

Père Noël is in charge of this roller coaster!

Oh, coffee, I love you too!

 
After returning to Desmond’s place, we had an easy meal of egg sandwiches and chips. We ended the evening with a board game before heading home to our own little nest. 

Cuddles with Azur

It Feels Like Home

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, Dec. 21 2018

Craig and I slept late in our comfortable king-sized bed. The apartment was cozy and warm and we felt very much at home there. We brewed a pot of dark, aromatic coffee and nibbled on a few Madeleines which Des had provided for us. Before long, we were headed over to Desmond's place just a couple of blocks away. We were looking forward to spending more time with Will. We had just missed Desmond's roommate, Art, who had crossed us on his way to America where he would spend Christmas with his family.

Azur was warm and cozy in his new bed.

Des had planned a wonderful lunch for us. He made a Korean dish of bulgogi, which is one of my favorite meals. Rice and roasted broccoli were the perfect accompaniment. Will contributed dessert to the meal. It was a delicious tarte tatin, with a wonderful caramel topping and lots of whipped cream. We enjoyed chatting with Will. He is a fun person to talk to and I'm glad he and Des are friends. 

After lunch, Desmond had to leave for work and Will needed to head back to Paris. Craig and I decided to pay another visit to the Christmas market before going grocery shopping. It was fun to wander around at the festive market and I purchased a few small items for family members at home. We then boarded a very crowded tram for a ride to the supermarket. We bought coffee and other necessities and on the way home we picked up some pastries. It was pleasant to relax in our comfy apartment and enjoy coffee and pastries while sending a few messages to relatives at home.

A Paris Brest in the shape of an eclair

When Des returned from the university, we shared a snack of sausage, cheese, and bread. Later, we went into town where we were meeting friends for drinks at l'Atelier, a cozy bar on the Rue de Borgogne. It was good to see Jeffrey and Chris again, and we met a few new people, too. One was a young German man named Karl, who was couch-surfing around the country and was currently staying with Jeff. Everyone enjoyed talking to him about his adventures and about life in Germany. We all talked and laughed for three hours! By the time we made it home, none of us were hungry, so we just called it a night.

A festive evening on Rue de Borgogne

Drinks with friends in a cozy bar

Christmas in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, Dec. 20 2018

Craig and I had been looking forward to this for quite some time - Christmas in France with our son! It had been sixteen months since we had all been together. We arrived at the train station in Orléans to find Desmond waiting for us on the platform with his friend Will, and in no time at all we were checking in to our little AirBnB. We had chosen it mainly for its close proximity to Desmond’s apartment and it turned out to be so charming and cozy that we immediately felt comfortable. 

Nothing says welcome like a heart-shaped lock.

Craig and I were able to use self-check in with the door codes provided by our host. The apartment was in an old building with such thick walls that we rarely heard any outside noise. The little bedroom had lots of storage and a very comfy king-sized bed. 

Beautiful old beams in the bedroom

A little round window for a cozy vibe

A charming weather vane
overlooking the courtyard

The kitchen had everything we required, in spite of its minuscule size. The living/dining area had plenty of room for our needs. Our host had placed a little golden Christmas tree on the fireplace mantel, which was a welcoming touch. The bathroom, though small, was as sparkling clean as the rest of the apartment. 

Ready for Christmas

Desmond and Will had left us to unpack and rest for a bit. We brewed a small pot of coffee, put our feet up, and sent a few messages home to let our family know we had arrived safely. It had been about twenty hours since Craig and I left our house in Kansas but we didn’t feel tired or jet-lagged. We were ready to meet up with Des and Will. 

Within minutes, the four of us were walking across the bridge toward the Orléans Christmas market. Everywhere we looked, there were beautiful decorations. Store windows were filled with clever holiday displays that beckoned shoppers to step inside. Lampposts and flower urns were bedecked with swags of garland and twinkling lights.  We continued our stroll and could see the huge Ferris wheel up ahead, towering over the festive marketplace.

Old and new at the Christmas market

There were lots of interesting items for sale.

Wooden booths had been constructed and set up on the square, with garlands of greenery and lights strung overhead. Each booth sold products that were handmade or manufactured in France. Many of the little huts offered enticing food items such as sausages, cheese, chocolates, and other local specialties. 

We couldn’t resist for long! The aroma of rich, creamy tartiflette drew us to a booth where we made our selections. We found a place to sit and chat while we savored every delicious bite. A few feet away was another booth from which we purchased salted caramel crepes for dessert. Oh my, but they were tasty! 

The tartiflette was irresistible!

Waffles or crepes for dessert?

It was fun to wander among the cute wooden huts. I had spotted several items which I planned to purchase for Craig and Des later. I also gazed longingly at a few things which I hoped might show up beneath the Christmas tree for me! By the time we turned for home, Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long flight and were ready to settle into our cozy apartment. 

Checking In

I have been on hiatus for a few months, and now it's time to let everyone know I'm still around! It's amazing how active the lives of retired persons can be. Craig and I have been busy this spring and summer with projects around the house, the yard and garden, visits to and errands for both of our mothers, and a myriad of other activities. 

A recent visitor

This is part of the lovely courtyard my mom enjoys.

In April, it felt strange not to be flying to Europe. When Kansas summer weather began in June, my thoughts returned to France and the good times we had enjoyed there last year with Desmond. Though we struggled through a few exceptionally hot days, we all managed to have a splendid vacation.

Our next visit to France will be very different from previous years. We have decided to spend Christmas with Desmond! Our plane tickets have been purchased (at an amazingly low price) and our lodging has been reserved and paid for. We are thrilled to be staying in a little apartment merely a two-minute walk from Desmond's place.

Over the years, I have seen many beautiful photos and articles regarding the Christmas markets in France. Desmond has described them as well, and we are looking forward to the experience. Mulled wine, hot chestnuts, and handmade gifts are only a few of the delights that await. 

It will be a treat to enjoy the festive season with our son.This will be the longest time we will have been apart since his move to France. We miss him terribly, and though we are thankful for FaceTime and text messages, we want more! Anticipation is a good thing, though, isn't it?

Summer in Kansas is too hot
 for even the squirrels!

Another Last Day

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, June 23 2017

We had a wonderful day. At last the heat had broken! It was beautifully cool with a lovely breeze. I enjoyed one of Desmond's protein smoothies for breakfast. As much as I love pastries, I found that I had much more energy and stamina when I drank one of those shakes. I could always have a French pastry with my afternoon coffee. 

We wandered around town and popped into a few shops. It was so nice to be outside without being bombarded by oppressive heat. We visited the cathedral, and Janey was quite impressed with the awe-inspiring beauty and history of the huge edifice.  

Craig, Des, and Janey approach
 the cathedral of Sainte-Croix

The cathedral is a marvel.

We chose the Korean restaurant, Kogi, for lunch. Craig had never tried their delicious food and he was in for a treat! We all chose the bibimbap, a dish I had eaten there before. It was as good as I remembered. Our appetizer arrived as we waited for the main course. It was a divided tray containing tiny fishes and peanuts, pickled radish, and marinated bits of something I didn't recognize. Janey and I couldn't quite manage the little fishes, but Craig and Des seemed to enjoy them. We enjoyed our meal outside in the sunshine, with a refreshing breeze to cool us.

An interesting appetizer at Kogi.

A sizzling bowl of bibimbap
 at Kogi in Orleans, France.

After lunch we took our leftovers home and then picked up the baby clothes we had purchased for Chris and Mathilde's newborn, Robin. Baby showers are apparently not a thing in France, so we had chosen lots of adorable little items in several different sizes for the new baby. Robin was asleep when we arrived, but we got to see him. We all chatted quietly for a while but didn't stay too long, as we could tell the new mom was very tired.

That afternoon, we met Chris's parents, Marilyn and Rodney, at Autour de la Terre. They are lovely people and fun to be around. They live in New Zealand and had timed their visit to France to coincide with the birth of their new grandson. They are avid bicyclists and tour all over France on their bikes. 

In the courtyard of Autour de la Terre.

We had eaten such a big lunch that we weren't really very hungry for dinner. We ended up just snacking. But it was our last evening in Orleans for this trip, and we were having a wonderful time. We met another of Desmond's friends at a bar on the Rue de Borgogne. Kozmin is from Romania and was in the process of obtaining his PHD in engineering at the University of Orleans. He was also a student in Desmond's conversational English class. He had a fantastic grasp of the language and loved to kid around. We enjoyed his stories of life in Romania.

Lovely half-timbered buildings
 along Rue de Borgogne.

After saying goodbye to Kozmin, we went to another bar that is one of Desmond's favorites. Rue de Borgogne by this time was very crowded. The bars and restaurants along the street were all bustling and lively with conversation. We managed to find a table at the edge of the street. There was hardly room for a single car to pass. Suddenly, people around us were scraping their chairs back and pushing tables away. I looked up to see a huge fire truck coming slowly toward us. It barely managed to squeeze through on the crowded street. It was literally inches away from my chair!

Janey liked her "tipsy" glass!

At 11:00 we walked the short distance to the cathedral, where we were in for an incredible treat. There was a light show projected onto the outside walls of the huge structure. The theme was historical figures and we watched in awe as bright swirling colors and images appeared before us in a magical display. The effect was enhanced by stirring music that fit the theme perfectly. We were completely transported. It was a dramatic spectacle and one we will never forget!

The light show was an amazing experience.

The images and colors changed
 swiftly along with the music.

Il Fait Chaud!!!

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal Thursday, June 22 2017

We were faced with yet another scorching hot day. Sleep had been difficult the night before, but we did have hopes of the weather cooling down soon. Desmond had some work to do in the morning hours, so we had little time to talk. He gulped down a protein shake and was out the door. Craig and I walked across the square to the bakery, where we chose our breakfast pastries. I selected a lovely lemon tart, which was eaten in front of the fan. 

At lunchtime, it was just too hot to consider walking anywhere. We whipped up scrambled eggs for lunch, and served them with fresh fruit and rustic bread. Then it was more sitting in front of the fan, catching up on email and reading for a while.

A dark, rustic bread. Delicious!

Desmond, Craig, and Janey decided that another dip in the Loire would be refreshing, but I chose to walk down to Carrefour to do a bit of grocery shopping. I ambled slowly down the street, grateful for the many shade trees overhanging the sidewalk.

Craig and Janey in the Loire.

As evening approached, we walked into town for drinks. We chose a table outside in the shade of a building on Rue de Borgogne. I enjoyed a refreshing Monaco while Janey gulped iced tea and the others sipped their beer. 

For our evening meal, we decided to go to Au Bureau, as we would have the benefit of air conditioning. Craig and Janey both ordered burgers, but Craig's choice was the more unique. Instead of a bun, the meat was sandwiched between two crisp hash brown patties and topped with a fried egg. Desmond chose a hearty salad that had meat and potatoes in it. I ordered the Welsh, which was essentially a bowl of melted cheese with a hunk of bread and some ham in it. It was accompanied by crisp fries and a salad. By the end of the meal, we were all dipping our fries into the cheese. This seemed to displease our waitress, who soon whisked away the remnants of our meals. 

An interesting burger at Au Bureau, Orleans France.

What a salad!

We strolled home slowly, still making use of our little misting fans. The four of us ended the day with a movie as we sat in front of the fan. 

A peaceful scene on the Loire.