It Has Been Too Long

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal : Thursday, April 21, 2022

At last! After more than three years, we were headed once more to France. My husband and I had longed for this day, wondering when the Covid pandemic would ever allow us to travel again. Even the prospect of an 8 hour layover in Chicago didn’t dampen our enthusiasm.

We arrived in Paris around 11:00 AM. Our flight had been rather turbulent, which had made it impossible for us to sleep. Our son Desmond met us at the airport with a smile and hugs. It was so good to see him on his "home turf" and to know that we would be able to have three wonderful weeks together! We took a taxi into Montmartre, where our Airbnb was located and were pleased to learn that we would be able to check in early. Our host, Victor, was out of town but had arranged for his friend to meet us and show us around the lodging. The apartment was perfect for our needs and since it was actually the home of our host, it was filled with books, records, and many decorative touches that gave us a glimpse of the owner’s personality.

Our Airbnb was in this building in Montmartre.

After putting our luggage away, we went to lunch at Gemüse, a nearby restaurant that had been recommended by Victor. The Berlin-style kebab sandwiches were like nothing we had ever tasted! The hearty sesame bread was stuffed with flavorful chicken and so many different kinds of sautéed vegetables that we could barely pick them up. After that delightful meal, we headed toward Sacré Cœur and were soon confronted with one of the long stairways that seem to be the trademark of that area. I was forced to stop and rest several times, not because I was winded, but because of pain and tightness in my lower back. I had endured numerous procedures for back trouble for a couple of years by that time. I was determined that it would not spoil our vacation, though it might slow me down at times.

THE sandwich

A Montmartre stairway

Intriguing 3-D art beside the stairs

When we reached the area around the basilica, we were greeted with the lively notes of an accordion being played by a smiling busker. Small children were laughing and dancing around him. Everywhere we looked, there were flowers in pots or hanging baskets. Flowering trees displayed their fragrant blossoms as crowds strolled beneath them. We enjoyed the vibrant scene in Place du Tertre, where artists were busily sketching or painting, and displaying their completed wares for sale. We wandered for some time, taking in the beautiful views and the lively atmosphere which is always present there.

Sacre Coeur peeking through the trees

I enjoyed hearing the sounds
of the accordion.

We had planned to have a picnic supper in a park, but instead returned to our apartment. It was a bit of a disappointment, but my back was demanding a long rest. Desmond and Craig found a market where they picked up items for an indoor picnic. Our little supper consisted of a fresh baguette accompanied by a slab of Munster cheese, smoked cod livers, dry sausage, cherry tomatoes, fresh strawberries, and a honey almond cake. It was a fun and satisfying meal. We didn’t stay up late, as Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long travel day.

Keeping it Light

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, Dec. 30 2018

We slept late, and I know it was something we all needed. Desmond had rested very little the night before, but managed to slip out of the apartment and return with pastries before Craig and I were finished with our first coffee of the morning. 

The weather was damp and cold when we left the AirBnB, but we made the decision to take the double-decker bus tour of Lyon. The huge vehicle was very crowded and we had to sit on the top level which was open to the weather. It was absolutely freezing up there! I was very grateful for my warm hat and gloves. About halfway into the tour, we were able to move to the lower deck and were much more comfortable. The views of Lyon, along with the commentary, held our attention. It’s a lovely old city with many modern touches and we would love to return someday for further exploration. 

A view of Lyon, France

When we made it back to our starting point, it was lunchtime. We found a cozy restaurant where we ordered pizza. I don’t think we have ever been disappointed when ordering pizza in France, and this place was no exception. 

There really are no windows or wildcats on that building.
 It's all a mural. There are many in Lyon.

Our next stop was the automaton museum. We love just about anything quirky, and were delighted with the place! In the entrance lobby was an entire automated circus scene, complete with acrobats, jugglers, and high-wire acts. A clown was feeding seals from a bucket of fish. The figures were only about eight to ten inches high and were painted in vivid detail. As we continued into the interior of the museum, we saw many animated dioramas, most with figures twelve to eighteen inches high, recreating scenes of medieval life, art, fairy tales, and so on. 

A lively circus scene at the automaton museum in Lyon, Fr

This automaton certainly looked familiar!

The museum is on the ground floor of an ancient building in old Lyon. As we progressed through it, we were walking on a downward slope and I noticed that we were literally in a cave with the walls and arched ceiling carved out of rock. The jointed wooden people and animals created a cacophony of clicking and whirring as they picked grapes, wove silk, baked bread, and washed clothes. One huge scene depicted Nôtre Dame de Paris, complete with Quasimodo and music. Guignol, a popular puppet character in France, was also present. There was much to see and it was charmingly quaint. This would be an enchanting place for children, and since we’re just kids at heart we enjoyed it.

Quasimodo atop Notre Dame

Automatons using a loom to weave silk

I’m old enough to remember when automatons were used in advertising displays and delightful Christmas scenes in shop windows. Some are still in use today. I have seen a cobbler recently, in the window of a shoe repair shop in Orléans.

We strolled along the river for a while, where a huge outdoor market was taking place. It was tempting to linger, but we were on our way to another museum. It was all about the history of Lyon and was very interesting. It’s simply amazing to think that this area has been inhabited since the year 43 bce when the Romans established a military colony. The museum also had a huge exhibition of marionettes that was fun to view. 

Garlic at an outdoor market in Lyon, France

An enticing display of cheese at the outdoor market

We were very tired and cold from walking in the brisk winter chill. On our way home, we stopped at a lovely tea shop for a hot drink. The hot chocolate we ordered was unlike any we had ever tasted. It was made with rich bars of chocolate melted and frothed into fresh, hot milk. Before serving it, our waitress piled each of our enormous cups with whipped cream. She then slowly poured the frothy chocolate carefully over and around the billowing cream and left us to enjoy our decadent treat. We lingered for quite some time over that delicious beverage and left the shop feeling content and almost happy. Keeping ourselves busy had helped to distract us from our grief over losing mom. It had been a pretty good day, all things considered. 

Incredible chocolat chaud in Lyon, France

Desmond and Craig heading home to
our apartment up the hill in Old Lyon, France

Christmas Day in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, Dec. 25 2018

Christmas Day dawned sunny but cold. Our first thoughts were on our other loved ones back home, though it was much too early to call any of them. We hoped that someone would be visiting mom in the nursing home. It's possible that she may not have realized that it was Christmas day, but she still deserved attention from her family, regardless. Craig and I had coffee together before walking over to Desmond's place. He greeted us with steaming mugs of rich hot chocolate. The house looked very festive, with the fat stockings on the mantel and twinkling lights on the tree. 

Christmas day in Orleans France

With Christmas carols playing in the background, the three of us took our time opening gifts and "unstuffing" our Christmas stockings. There was lots of laughter and plenty of nice surprises. Desmond especially loved the apron we had given him. It was from the Mennonite Heritage Museum in Goessel, Kansas and featured embroidered zwieback on the bib. Those little rolls, translated as "two breads" are a popular addition to many Mennonite meals.

Desmond tries on his new apron.

Azur joined the festivities.

Because this was the first sunny day since our arrival in France, we decided to go for a walk. The town was very quiet, as I'm sure many families were occupied in the same manner as we had been. Even though the temperature hovered at the freezing mark, we still enjoyed our little stroll. 

In the afternoon, Jeff and Arno arrived within minutes of each other. It was wonderful to have them with us for at least a part of the holiday. We poured drinks and nibbled on Christmas goodies as we chatted. Des was popping into the kitchen at intervals, and some very enticing aromas were filling the air. He really went all out to prepare a magnificent Christmas feast.

We began our meal with apéro, which consisted of more drinks accompanied by a beautifully arranged planche heaped with sausage, pistachios, Gouda walnut crackers, figs, escargot crackers, tiny pickles, and pate en croute. That kept us occupied for a while! Our next course was smoked trout blini. It was very tasty and I preferred it over smoked salmon. We were off to a great start.

What a great start to our meal!

After a while, Desmond presented us with a lovely tray of foie gras with plenty of toasted brioche accompanied by little pots of sea salt, onion confit and fig jam. By this point, I was feeling the need for another walk!

The foie gras was irresistible.

As the festive meal continued, Desmond served a tender, juicy, cider roasted capon, along with sweet potato casserole, braised chestnuts, and fresh, soft rolls. The capon stole the show; it was simply delectable. 

The delightful main course.

The traditional cheese course followed that sumptuous spread. Des had arranged the Gouda, goat cheese, and a tasty local cheese from Olivet on a tray with plenty of seeded crackers to go with it. I enjoyed sampling the cheese, but didn’t overdo it as I knew dessert was still to come. 

Time for some tasty cheese

Jeff had contributed spicy mince pies from Marks and Spencer for dessert, and we also had a layered ice cream cake. The champagne was poured and we all toasted the season as we savored the last bites of that incredible meal. How wonderful it was to share that time with our son and his friends, who over the years have become our friends, too. It was indeed a very special Christmas Day. 

Time for a toast. 

Flavorful mince pies

And ice cream cake to end the meal

Our Christmas Eve in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, Dec. 24 2018

Christmas Eve! It was strange not to be at home for Christmas; it was definitely a first for us. Craig and I were thrilled to be spending the holiday in France with our son. I had switched on the two sparkling Christmas trees in our apartment before I headed into the kitchen to make coffee. The tree provided by our host was in the place of honor atop the mantel and was surrounded by some of the small gifts I had wrapped previously. I had hung our stockings there to complete the festive look, though we would take them to Desmond’s house later. The tiny tree was on our little dining table and provided another touch of color. 

Des came over with a box of pastries. The kouigin-amann was a delectable surprise. That sweet, flaky, buttery pastry is a traditional Breton delight. We also shared a yummy lemon tart as we planned our day. 

The kouigin-amann is a delight!

We had some grocery shopping to do, but first needed to stop at the pet shop to purchase food for Azur. As the three of us were approaching the shop, we saw a little girl leaving with her parents. Her eyes were sparkling and in her arms she cradled a large water-filled plastic bag in which a goldfish was swimming. The child had a huge smile on her face and both of her arms were wrapped around the bag protectively. As she lagged behind her parents, we saw her lift the bag and put her cheek against it as she gave it a gentle hug. She hugged her goldfish! That was one of the cutest things we had ever seen. For the rest of the day, one or the other of us would break into a smile or chuckle as we recalled it. It’s too bad her parents missed that special moment. 

Lost in translation?

The grocery store was very crowded, as we knew it would be, but it was fun. The store was packed with shoppers milling about selecting delicacies for their holiday feasts, while wide-eyed children waited in line to chat with Pere Noël. We wove through the crowds and managed to find everything we needed. After returning to Desmond’s place, we put away the groceries and then Des whipped up a lunch of vegetarian steak patties, potato puffs, and clémentines.

Those aren't cucumbers, they're avocados!

After laundry and a few other chores, we couldn’t resist a final visit to the Christmas market. The three of us bundled up and walked into the center of town. Of course, everyone had the same idea and the square was crowded with families. 

Enticing aromas of waffles, tartiflette, and roasted chestnuts wafted through the square. The hut with the biggest crowd was the one selling mulled wine, but the line moved quickly and we were soon sipping cups of that warm, spiced wine. Our next stop was for hot roasted chestnuts, which were scooped into a paper cone. Yum! 

Mulled wine is very popular on a chilly evening.

Craig and Des enjoying hot mulled wine
 at the Christmas market in Orleans, France

Roasted chestnuts were a treat

As sunset approached, we decided to ride the Ferris wheel. The lights on the candy striped-wheel were sparkling, as were the ones hung in swags from the wooden huts on the square. We enjoyed the view, though we were becoming chilled. It was time retrace our steps back across the bridge.

A view of the Christmas market from the Ferris Wheel

Another view from the big wheel

In France, most families have an elaborate meal on Christmas eve. Des had planned differently since he wanted to include Jeff and also Arno, who were not available until Christmas Day. He put together a quick and delicious cheese fondue for our Christmas Eve supper. There were chunks of baguette, salami, ham, cooked potato, apple, and blanched broccoli to dip into the melted cheese. There was chocolate fondue for dessert, which we ate with caramel corn, pieces of waffle, and slices of banana and orange. It was a fun and festive meal. 

Christmas Eve fondue

We ended the evening by watching nostalgic Christmas shows, after which we stuffed the stockings and propped them carefully on the mantel. It had been such a fun day. 

Shopping and Eating. What's Not to Like?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 22 2018

After coffee and Madeleines, Craig and I made our way to Desmond’s where we enjoyed more coffee with some chocolate and banana breakfast cookies that our son had made.The plan for the day was to get serious about Christmas shopping. We decided it would be best to split up, so Craig and Des headed for the Christmas market while I wandered around town. I enjoyed popping into interesting little shops and choosing small items for stocking stuffers.

Craig captured this view from the Ferris wheel.

At lunchtime, we met at the little noodle shop on the square near Desmond’s apartment. We watched the owner making fresh noodles as our own dishes were being prepared by his wife. When our food arrived, we eagerly dug into the garlicky noodles, pork, and vegetables. It was a delicious and satisfying lunch. As we were eating, the little cat who lives in the building next to Desmond came to the door of the noodle shop, begging for a handout. The owners told us that this little "stray" shows up every day and they just couldn't resist her. Lily was busted when Des explained that she was not a stray, and we all had a good laugh! I'm surprised the cat isn't overweight, because she always looking for a bit to eat at the different establishments on the square.

Fresh noodles? Yes, please!

A delicious lunchtime treat

After our meal, Craig went out shopping alone while Des and I teamed up and headed back into town. We had such a good time, and Des took me to some unique shops I hadn’t visited before. I am always eager to step into the chocolate shops! The aroma alone is a treat. They have such enticing displays and really go over the top at Christmas, which makes those beautiful little works of edible art even more irresistible. One shop even had a chocolate waterfall pouring down an inside wall! 

A pretty side street in Orléans

Later, we spotted Arno and a friend of his at the Christmas market. We shopped a bit with them and then decided to meet Craig at le Lutetia for coffee. We sat there for quite a while, enjoying our hot drinks in the bustling restaurant.

Père Noël is in charge of this roller coaster!

Oh, coffee, I love you too!

 
After returning to Desmond’s place, we had an easy meal of egg sandwiches and chips. We ended the evening with a board game before heading home to our own little nest. 

Cuddles with Azur

It Feels Like Home

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, Dec. 21 2018

Craig and I slept late in our comfortable king-sized bed. The apartment was cozy and warm and we felt very much at home there. We brewed a pot of dark, aromatic coffee and nibbled on a few Madeleines which Des had provided for us. Before long, we were headed over to Desmond's place just a couple of blocks away. We were looking forward to spending more time with Will. We had just missed Desmond's roommate, Art, who had crossed us on his way to America where he would spend Christmas with his family.

Azur was warm and cozy in his new bed.

Des had planned a wonderful lunch for us. He made a Korean dish of bulgogi, which is one of my favorite meals. Rice and roasted broccoli were the perfect accompaniment. Will contributed dessert to the meal. It was a delicious tarte tatin, with a wonderful caramel topping and lots of whipped cream. We enjoyed chatting with Will. He is a fun person to talk to and I'm glad he and Des are friends. 

After lunch, Desmond had to leave for work and Will needed to head back to Paris. Craig and I decided to pay another visit to the Christmas market before going grocery shopping. It was fun to wander around at the festive market and I purchased a few small items for family members at home. We then boarded a very crowded tram for a ride to the supermarket. We bought coffee and other necessities and on the way home we picked up some pastries. It was pleasant to relax in our comfy apartment and enjoy coffee and pastries while sending a few messages to relatives at home.

A Paris Brest in the shape of an eclair

When Des returned from the university, we shared a snack of sausage, cheese, and bread. Later, we went into town where we were meeting friends for drinks at l'Atelier, a cozy bar on the Rue de Borgogne. It was good to see Jeffrey and Chris again, and we met a few new people, too. One was a young German man named Karl, who was couch-surfing around the country and was currently staying with Jeff. Everyone enjoyed talking to him about his adventures and about life in Germany. We all talked and laughed for three hours! By the time we made it home, none of us were hungry, so we just called it a night.

A festive evening on Rue de Borgogne

Drinks with friends in a cozy bar

Marching With Pride

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, June 24 2017

I couldn't believe that our vacation was nearly at an end. Even though the high temperatures had prevented us from doing some of the things we had planned, we had still had a fantastic time. We met with many wonderful people - friends of Desmond's who have become our friends. My only regret was that we had not been able to see Arno, who was away for the duration of our visit. 

I'm never quite ready to leave, but as I packed my suitcase I was anticipating a few more days of vacation. Showing Janey a bit of Paris was something to look forward to. I was also looking forward to spending more time with Desmond. He and I would be traveling to Florida for a short time, and then on to our home for the greater part of the summer. 

We boarded the train for Paris just before noon. When we arrived, we quickly found a taxi and soon had all of our luggage stuffed into the back. Our driver had some difficulty getting us to our rented apartment because many streets had been closed due to the Pride parade and another event. Traffic was heavy, but we eventually made it. The four of us pulled our luggage into a charming art deco apartment near the Passy Plaza shopping center. 

A welcome to Paris.

Wall decor in the lobby of our apartment building in Paris.

After resting for a few minutes, we all headed out to join the Pride parade. But first, we needed a quick lunch. We stopped at a nearby bakery where we purchased sandwiches and drinks to go, planning to eat them on the train. We were dismayed to learn that the little terminal was closed. After a brisk walk to the metro, we hopped on, only to discover that several stops near the area of the parade were closed due to security reasons. Nevertheless, we were determined to join the parade. After a lengthy walk along the beautiful Rue de Rivoli, we were able to watch a portion of the colorful parade before joining in. Desmond had brought some flags, which we carried or wore as scarves as we marched with the milling throng.  It was an exuberant crowd of thousands with a definite camaraderie and we all chanted as we passed the lovely, historic buildings along our route. Onlookers waved, cheered, and blew kisses. Many of them showered us with confetti as we passed beneath their windows. 

Thousands attend the annual Pride parade.

Proud marchers in Paris, France.

After about an hour, Janey was worn out. The temperature had risen and we were all very warm. We stepped out of the parade and stood on the sidewalk for a while, watching the bright floats pass by and waving our flags at the crowd of colorfully dressed marchers. After a while, we turned and began to make our way up a side street away from the press of people. We were thrilled to see, right in front of us, the diner which we had visited on a previous occasion! Soon, the four of us were slurping thick, creamy milkshakes. What a welcome treat on a hot day.

The Metro was very crowded as we made our back to our lodgings. We relaxed for a bit and then explored a little. We discovered that we were literally steps away from Passy Plaza, where there are numerous shops and a supermarket. We bought coffee, milk, and a few other items. 

That evening, we walked a couple of blocks to a Framboise creperie, where we enjoyed a wonderful meal. The savory gallettes were delicious and for dessert we chose several different crepes. They were all so good that we passed them around so each of us could sample them all. My favorite was the salted caramel, and we also had one made with apples, caramel, hazelnuts, and ice cream, and another crepe which was made with bananas, chocolate, and whipped cream. We lingered at our table on the shady sidewalk where a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower was visible through the trees.

We returned to our AirBnB and began to unpack. The apartment would be quite suitable for a long stay. It had a well equipped kitchen, a living room with a sofa sleeper, a spacious bathroom that had lots of storage, and a huge shower. There was a water closet opposite, and a bedroom at the end of the little hallway which had many storage cupboards and a desk in addition to a comfortable bed. It was a great apartment in a perfect location and we settled in happily for the night.

The comfy bedroom at our lodgings in Paris.