Was It Inevitable?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, 04-22-22

Our first morning in France since December 2018! It was a lovely morning, too. Sunshine and a gentle breeze got us off to a great start. Desmond went to a nearby bakery where he picked up several pastries. I enjoyed a coffee éclair, some REAL strawberries, and part of a pain au chocolate. Then we were out the door to explore. 

THIS is what a strawberry should look like!
And it tasted as good as it looked.

We had planned to visit a museum. Desmond suggested the Rodin Museum because many of the sculptures are outdoors in the beautifully landscaped grounds and we wanted to be outside as much as possible. After exiting the metro, the walk to the museum was very pleasant, with the sights and sounds of a bustling morning in Paris. We arrived just as the museum opened and had a wonderful time strolling through the sculpture gardens. There were many fascinating works to view and learn about. Of course, we couldn’t miss the displays inside the beautiful building which housed many treasures and was once where Rodin lived and maintained his studio. 

Musée Rodin, with the golden dome
 of Invalides in the background

                                 

The Thinker

The Kiss

It was nearing lunchtime when we left the museum. The three of us decided to hop aboard a Batobus to get to our next destination. We disembarked at the stop for the Louvre and headed past it to find a certain restaurant in which we had lunched on a previous visit. Kadoya is a Japanese restaurant which serves amazing ramen. We found it to be as good as we had remembered. 

Delicious ramen at Kadoya

A short stroll later brought us back to the Seine where we boarded another Batobus to the Eiffel Tower stop. We went past the long lines of tourists waiting to gain entrance to the grounds beneath the tower and found a shady spot on the grassy Champs de Mars. Many people were resting there, or taking photos. Some of the visitors were picnicking, while children ran around kicking a soccer ball. A few people were napping in the shade or sunning themselves on the grass. It was a welcome break and a good time for us to put in a call to Marjorie.  

A lovely view along the Seine

There is a lot of work taking place
 in and around the Tour Eiffel.

After a while, we returned to the Batobus where we waited in a long line beside the Seine. At our next stop, we arrived at Notre Dame. The cathedral was a sad sight, still undergoing reconstruction from the tragic fire three years previously. We didn’t go near the site, but instead headed in the opposite direction. 

The restoration of Notre Dame is ongoing.

Desmond led us toward Odette, pausing along the way to show us the oldest tree in Paris.  This hardy acacia was brought from America and planted in 1601 and is said to be the mother of all the black locust trees in France. She's rather beat up from the shelling in WWII and relies on support to remain standing. We paid our respects to her and then in moments we had arrived at Odette. 

The oldest tree in Paris

Our visit to Odette was a delight!

This charming patisserie, located in a picturesque 17th century building at the end of a little cobbled lane, sells only cream puffs. They are said to be the best cream puffs in Paris, and I’m inclined to agree. They come in a variety of flavors, so we each chose two different ones and ordered coffee and hot chocolate to accompany them. There were only a few tables outside and we were happy to find a vacant one where we could enjoy our delightful treats. The building has an upper floor tearoom from which you would have a view of Notre Dame, and I believe they offer other types of pastries, too. We were happy to be outside on that gorgeous spring day.

Wish you were here?

Just a one-minute walk from Odette, you will find Shakespeare and Company. Craig and I had wanted to visit this iconic shop for many years. Desmond had been there many times and was thrilled to show us the place, and though we could not take photos inside it was a wonderful and unique experience. The legendary bookshop is a magical place and has a fascinating history. It's a must-see in Paris. 

It was a long line, but worth the wait.

We began to work our way back toward Montmartre, with the intention of picking up goodies for a picnic at Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. We boarded the metro and were halfway to Montmartre when Craig’s wallet was lifted from his front jeans pocket by a thief! All three of us had felt uneasy about the two young men who were standing so close to Des and Craig. I was seated near them as they held onto a pole on the crowded subway. As the cars began to slow, one of the men dropped his phone at Craig’s feet (as a distraction) while the other went for my husband’s wallet. Craig realized what was happening and clamped his hand over his pocket a split second too late. The subway doors opened and the two men jumped out, followed closely by Craig and Desmond. There was no time for me to hop out, but just as the doors were closing, one of the thieves jumped back in. All of that happened in about 4 seconds! I decided to follow the crook when he left the metro at the next stop. I figured that I could at least see where he met up with his buddy. He was walking quickly, and as he was about to head up the stairs to street level I realized how foolish it would be to follow the crook. All it would take was one hard shove and I’d be out of commission before our vacation had even begun. 

I turned to find a bench and wait for my husband and son. Within just a few minutes, they appeared. I knew they’d find me, as we have always had a plan that if ever any one of us missed a stop, we would all meet up at the next one. They had caught up with the first thief, who told him that it was the other guy who had the wallet. Of course he would say that, but what could Craig and Desmond have done? We set about contacting our bank and credit card companies to lock the cards. Then we walked to the nearest police station to file a report. We had a long wait, followed by the lengthy process of actually writing down all the details. Desmond was a huge help, inputting everything in French. As I waited, I noticed a distraught young man nearby filing the same kind of report with another officer. In the coming days when we shared this story, nearly every one of Desmond’s friends would nod sympathetically and say that the same thing had happened to them in Paris. They said that a pickpocket or purse-snatching is almost inevitable if you are a frequent visitor to Paris. In the end, all was well. The cards were locked in time and all Craig lost aside from the debit and credit cards were his Covid vaccine card, drivers license, and insurance cards. Those things were replaceable. The thieves didn’t even make off with any cash, as Craig always keeps his cash in another pocket. And since I had my debit card and a credit card, we were just fine. By the time we returned to Montmartre, it was too late for a picnic, so Craig and Des picked up items for another indoor feast. We played a game after dinner and then went to bed early. All things considered, it was a wonderful day.

Our lovely AirBnB was in
this building in Montmartre.

Tip: I always wear my purse cross-body, which helps prevent theft. I have heard that some thieves cut straps or cut into a shoulder bag, but I don't know of anyone who has experienced that. You could invest in a costly "theft-proof" bag, I suppose. There are many types of anti-theft clothing for men and women, and even a wallet that clips to a belt loop. My husband has arthritis in both hands which makes it difficult for him to manipulate clips, security zippers and the like. That is why he has always just carried his wallet in the usual way. Even so, I might order something for him to try on our next journey to France.

Four for Paris

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, June 25 2017

We woke early so that we would all have time for showers before Desmond, Craig and Janey left for the Catacombs of Paris. They were hoping to arrive in time to avoid a long wait in line and said they would pick up pastries for their breakfast along the way. I had decided not to accompany them because of my claustrophobia. Wandering around in dank underground passageways lined with millions of human bones did not appeal to me. I lingered over my coffee for a while, with the windows open to the coolness of the morning and the distant sound of cathedral bells ringing. It wasn't long before I ventured out of the building and strolled along the tree-lined streets of Paris, peeking into store windows. Most shops and even many bakeries are closed on Sunday, but I was certain that I would discover a boulangerie or patisserie nearby that was open. It didn't take long to locate one, and I stood patiently in line, eyeing the delectable treats which were on display in the glass cases. When it was my turn, I purchased a cafe eclair and headed back to the apartment to enjoy it with some fresh coffee.

My Sunday breakfast in Paris

Afterward, I tidied the rooms and then sat down with my iPad to see if there was a nearby covered market to visit. I was pleased to find that the Passy Market was just a four-minute walk from my location. An article I read about the markets of Paris stated that it is one of the best covered markets in Paris and went on to say that the baguettes there are not to be missed. The market was a truly amazing place, filled with color, culinary delights, and enticing aromas. I had fun choosing fresh fruit from one stall, a jar of onion jam from another, some duck mousse from still another stall and then was delighted to find the famous baguettes. While I was shopping, Craig called to see what I was up to and he, Des, and Janey decided to join me. They also enjoyed the market, but soon were ready for a break, so we walked the short distance to our temporary home. They told me all about their visit to the Catacombs and showed off some photos as well.

Fresh delights at the Passy Market.

So much from which to choose!

Janey in the Catacombs of Paris.

Desmond in the Catacombs.

We made up a little indoor picnic with the duck mousse, onion jam, the baguette, ham-wrapped boursin bites, sushi, crispy bits of duck fat (which are probably supposed to be a salad topping), and fresh fruit. I told everyone that I was thrilled to have snagged one of the popular baguettes before the stall ran out, and we could hardly wait to try it. Well, my exciting purchase soon turned into a joke as we discovered it was rock-hard inside and out! It was like trying to slice and eat a baseball bat! In fact, that baguette was so hard that it could have been used as a weapon! Desmond said that perhaps I had been given the display baguette and I think that he may have been correct.

An indoor picnic in Paris.

We left the apartment and began walking toward the Trocadero and the Eiffel Tower. Janey was in awe of the Iron Lady, and of course we took lots of pictures. There was the usual crepe stand nearby, and while my little party was standing in line, I backed up to snap a photo of them. The two ladies working the stand immediately began yelling at me to stop and made it very clear that we were not take any pictures of them. I thought this seemed odd, because we were visiting one of the most popular tourist sites in the world, where everyone takes pictures!  After a very long wait, during which we began to wonder if we were being punished for photographing them, one of the ladies finally handed us our crepes and we walked off toward the fountains of the Trocadero. 

Janey at the Trocadero.

The day had warmed and there were tourists lounging on the grassy areas and some were even splashing around in the basin of the huge fountains in spite of a lovely cool breeze. We passed one of the carousels, with its load of happy children. We sauntered across the Pont d’Iena, the bridge which spans the Seine. Security around the Eiffel Tower had changed tremendously from our last visit. A fence surrounded the base of the tower, and everyone who wanted to enter the area had to submit to a bag search and a once-over with an electronic wand. Once inside the fenced area, we had lots of room in which to stroll around and enjoy the view. There were no pressing crowds and no beggars or street performers, so we were able to focus our attention on the massive iron structure above us. 

It was a beautiful day for a climb.

Janey and Des pause for a photo
on the stairs of the Eiffel Tower.

My intrepid adventurers decided to climb the stairs to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. After all the walking they had done on their jaunt to the Catacombs, I was surprised but I settled myself on a bench in the shade and happily enjoyed people-watching as I waited for the climbers to return. All around me I could hear many different languages as tourists from all parts of the globe chattered excitedly while they photographed the iconic iron landmark towering above. When Craig, Desmond, and Janey reached their destination, they purchased cold drinks (avoiding the 12-euro glasses of wine) and rested a bit before making their descent. 

A view from the across Paris from the Eiffel Tower.

The four of us then rode the metro to Montmartre. Desmond climbed the stairs to the top where the Sacre Coeur Basilica overlooks Paris, while Craig, Janey, and I rode up in the crowded Funicular. We made it to the top just a few seconds after Desmond. We found our way to the famous Place du Tertre. In existence since 1635, the square was buzzing with artists and tourists. By then, it was time for lunch. We chose to sit outside in a shaded area and ordered meals from Le Sabot Rouge. I chose roast chicken with a candied thyme sauce, accompanied by crispy fries, Janey and Craig each had a pasta dish, while Des enjoyed a big helping of moules frites. I was surprised that Janey chose not to try one of the mussels; She had been quite adventurous on our vacation so far. We all enjoyed our food and the lively surroundings. 

Moules frites in Montmartre

The entire square was lively and festive, with artists at work, chattering tourists, music, street performers, and more. We found an artist to do a charcoal sketch of Janey as a gift for her mom. While the artist was at work, I wandered through the square taking photographs and admiring the many different styles of paintings that were on display.

Our next stop was Sacre Coeur. Because it was Sunday, the cathedral was crowded with worshipers hearing mass, but we tourists were being allowed in to a limited part of the impressive cathedral. We all walked around very quietly and reverently. Once outside, we walked down the massive staircase, admiring the view of Paris which lay below. We were fortunate to be entertained by one of the most famous street performers in Paris, Iya, who does an incredible show by climbing a light pole and using a soccer ball in a very athletic  and acrobatic display of talent. 

Sacre Couer on a busy Sunday in Paris

The lovely view from the steps of Sacre Coeur Basilica.

Iya put on an incredible performance
 of strength and agility.

Before we returned to our apartment, we stopped at a market and purchased items for a cold supper. It had been a wonderful and exciting day in Paris. We enjoyed showing the sights to Janey as we revisited one of our favorite cities in the world.  

Marching With Pride

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, June 24 2017

I couldn't believe that our vacation was nearly at an end. Even though the high temperatures had prevented us from doing some of the things we had planned, we had still had a fantastic time. We met with many wonderful people - friends of Desmond's who have become our friends. My only regret was that we had not been able to see Arno, who was away for the duration of our visit. 

I'm never quite ready to leave, but as I packed my suitcase I was anticipating a few more days of vacation. Showing Janey a bit of Paris was something to look forward to. I was also looking forward to spending more time with Desmond. He and I would be traveling to Florida for a short time, and then on to our home for the greater part of the summer. 

We boarded the train for Paris just before noon. When we arrived, we quickly found a taxi and soon had all of our luggage stuffed into the back. Our driver had some difficulty getting us to our rented apartment because many streets had been closed due to the Pride parade and another event. Traffic was heavy, but we eventually made it. The four of us pulled our luggage into a charming art deco apartment near the Passy Plaza shopping center. 

A welcome to Paris.

Wall decor in the lobby of our apartment building in Paris.

After resting for a few minutes, we all headed out to join the Pride parade. But first, we needed a quick lunch. We stopped at a nearby bakery where we purchased sandwiches and drinks to go, planning to eat them on the train. We were dismayed to learn that the little terminal was closed. After a brisk walk to the metro, we hopped on, only to discover that several stops near the area of the parade were closed due to security reasons. Nevertheless, we were determined to join the parade. After a lengthy walk along the beautiful Rue de Rivoli, we were able to watch a portion of the colorful parade before joining in. Desmond had brought some flags, which we carried or wore as scarves as we marched with the milling throng.  It was an exuberant crowd of thousands with a definite camaraderie and we all chanted as we passed the lovely, historic buildings along our route. Onlookers waved, cheered, and blew kisses. Many of them showered us with confetti as we passed beneath their windows. 

Thousands attend the annual Pride parade.

Proud marchers in Paris, France.

After about an hour, Janey was worn out. The temperature had risen and we were all very warm. We stepped out of the parade and stood on the sidewalk for a while, watching the bright floats pass by and waving our flags at the crowd of colorfully dressed marchers. After a while, we turned and began to make our way up a side street away from the press of people. We were thrilled to see, right in front of us, the diner which we had visited on a previous occasion! Soon, the four of us were slurping thick, creamy milkshakes. What a welcome treat on a hot day.

The Metro was very crowded as we made our back to our lodgings. We relaxed for a bit and then explored a little. We discovered that we were literally steps away from Passy Plaza, where there are numerous shops and a supermarket. We bought coffee, milk, and a few other items. 

That evening, we walked a couple of blocks to a Framboise creperie, where we enjoyed a wonderful meal. The savory gallettes were delicious and for dessert we chose several different crepes. They were all so good that we passed them around so each of us could sample them all. My favorite was the salted caramel, and we also had one made with apples, caramel, hazelnuts, and ice cream, and another crepe which was made with bananas, chocolate, and whipped cream. We lingered at our table on the shady sidewalk where a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower was visible through the trees.

We returned to our AirBnB and began to unpack. The apartment would be quite suitable for a long stay. It had a well equipped kitchen, a living room with a sofa sleeper, a spacious bathroom that had lots of storage, and a huge shower. There was a water closet opposite, and a bedroom at the end of the little hallway which had many storage cupboards and a desk in addition to a comfortable bed. It was a great apartment in a perfect location and we settled in happily for the night.

The comfy bedroom at our lodgings in Paris.

Never Ready

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, May 29 2016

After a restless night, it was difficult to arise at 5:30 AM, knowing what a long travel day we had ahead of us. We dressed sleepily and stowed our pajamas and toiletries away and were soon heading down the stairs to the lobby. We were too early even for coffee. We bid the usual tearful farewell to our son and set off for the airport. 

Au revoir for now!

Traffic was light, so we made good time to CDG. The lines were shorter than usual and it wasn't long before we were upstairs near our gate. We gravitated toward the coffee shop, which was just opening. I was more than ready for my first morning coffee! I chose a pain au chocolate to accompany it and joined Craig at a little table next to the window. After breakfast, I browsed in the duty-free shops and picked up some last-minute souvenirs.

As boarding time neared, I thought I heard my name on the loudspeakers. There was already a crowd forming at the gate and with some difficulty, I managed to squeeze through to inquire if I had been paged. I was told that no, I had not been. I returned to my seat, but after a short time, we decided to join the queue at the gate. Once again, I thought I heard my name! I wove my way through the crowd to the gate attendant, who immediately ushered me forward upon hearing my name. I told her that I was traveling with my husband, so he was allowed through the barrier with me. Imagine my dismay when I discovered that the reason I had been paged was because I had been selected for one of the random bag searches and additional pat-down! My carry-on and purse were both stuffed with the items I had just purchased in the duty-free shops. I actually felt sorry for the TSA agent who was gingerly but thoroughly examining every item. Craig just stood by, looking amused.

Finally, we were able to find our seats and settle in for the long flight. I immersed myself in a book to pass the time, as I can never sleep on the daytime crossings. Craig and I also played a few games of Scrabble on his laptop. My seatmate was a very sweet young French woman. We chatted off and on during the flight. 

Wanna race?

When we arrived in Chicago, the airport seemed more crowded than usual. It took some time to retrieve our luggage and trundle it through to Customs. That part wasn't bad when compared to the lengthy wait we faced at border control! I have never seen such a crowd. The room was teeming with people and the temperature in there was stifling. The lines crept forward at a snail's pace. When we finally broke free of the lines and were in the terminal, we bumped into our French friend, who was now accompanied by a German woman. They both seemed lost and confused, so we offered to show them to their gate. We enjoyed visiting with them as we walked, and we would have liked to join them for lunch, but we had to catch the tram for another terminal. 

The last leg of our journey was uneventful. I suppose I was glad to finally return home, but really, my heart was still in France. I'm already looking forward to our next visit.

Paris in the Rain

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 28 2016

It was our last morning in Orléans for a while. Our suitcases were open on the floor, waiting for those last-minute items to be tucked inside. We made one last walk to our favorite bakery, where I purchased a tasty chocolate-filled beignet and said goodbye to the sweet ladies at the counter. It was warm and cozy inside as we watched the raindrops roll down the window.

After breakfast, we finished the last few details of the new cabinets for Desmond's kitchen. When everything was in place, we patted ourselves on the back as we admired the finished pieces. With the countertop secured, the kitchen looked complete. It provided much more prep space and lots of storage.

Before long, the three of us were headed for the train station. We took the tram to Les Aubrais, where we caught the 11:00 train for Paris. We found seats together and sat back for the hour-long journey to Paris. It was raining lightly when we arrived, but that failed to dampen our spirits. Paris is lovely no matter the weather. Our taxi deposited us at the Hotel de l'Avre, a very charming and delightful place. We knew it would be too early for us to check in, but we were allowed to stow our bags until we returned at 3:00.

The Hotel de l'Avre in Paris, France

We began to explore. The hotel was a short distance from the Eiffel Tower, so we walked in that direction. The streets were bustling in spite of the rain. We found a cute little crêperie called Framboise, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch at a table near the window. The gallettes were wonderful. We finished with dessert crepes that were a perfect ending to the meal.

Lunch at Framboise in Paris, France

A refreshing crepe citron

We set out again toward the Eiffel Tower and soon arrived to find many huge tour buses parked along the side streets. Several areas were blocked off because of a marathon that had just taken place. The Champ de Mars was teeming with runners, locals, and tourists. All of us were sidestepping the puddles as we gaped at our surroundings. The rain had let up and there were vendors walking around offering selfie sticks for sale. They seemed to be a hot item. We saw many people using them to set up the perfect shot with the Eiffel Tower in the background. 

When we returned to the hotel, we were charmed by the lovely rooms that had been assigned to us. They were very cozy and were decorated with what looked like antiques. Many of the pieces were old clocks. The roomy bathrooms featured large bathtubs, which are a treat to find in a French hotel. The windows overlooked a sweet little graveled courtyard. Had the weather been nicer, I'm certain we would have enjoyed sitting in the garden, savoring a hot beverage. Instead, we found a neighborhood bar and warmed up over mugs of Irish coffee.

Just part of the lobby at Hotel de l'Avre, Paris

Our charming room at Hotel de l'Avre, Paris

Hotel de l'Avre had a sweet little courtyard.

For dinner that evening, Desmond had found an Italian restaurant called Chez Thomas, just a short walk from the hotel. The waitress was very sweet and animated; she actually kidded around with us a bit. My appetizer of bruschetta was fresh and delicious. Craig's antipasto was served on a bed of lettuce, which he left on the plate. The waitress good-naturedly chided him for not finishing his vegetables. His main course was also accompanied by a lot of greens, and when he had finished his meal, he quickly swapped plates with Desmond so that the server wouldn't notice he had not eaten his vegetables! She was onto his tricks and was soon standing beside him, hand on hip, tapping her foot and waggling her finger at him. We all burst out laughing as he was busted! 

Delicious bruschetta at Chez Thomas, Paris

I devoured my plateful of chicken and mushrooms in cream sauce, served over pasta. It wasn't exactly an Alfredo dish, but was lighter and very flavorful. Dessert was crème brûlée for me, and panna cotta for Craig and Des. It was such a fun evening that it was hard to feel sad that our wonderful vacation was ending. We walked back through the rain to our hotel, where I later had a nice, long soak in that huge tub.  

A rainy day in Paris is still better than a sunny day anywhere else.

Two Tired Travelers

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: May 2, 2015

I hadn't slept well, knowing that we had to be up early to say goodbye to our son. Before long, both Craig and I were dressed and ready to zip up our suitcases. There was a light tap at the door, which Craig opened to reveal a sleepy and smiling Desmond carrying cups of steaming coffee. That was such a sweet and thoughtful gesture! We sipped the hot brew gratefully and chatted a bit before heading out toward the elevator. The morning weather was very cool and still a bit damp, so we waited in the hotel lobby for our cab. 

When the taxi pulled up, we trundled our cases out and tried to hold back the tears as we exchanged hugs and kisses. We knew it would be almost nine months before we would again see Des. The Christmas holiday seemed a long way off. As usual, I was very quiet on the way to the airport. I was still trying not to cry while staring out the window at the receding sights of Paris.

The airport was, as always, teeming with tourists and taxis. There is often a bit of confusion about which line to stand in, but we soon had everything sorted out and made our way upstairs to await our flight. We were fortunate to find a small table and chairs near a little coffee kiosk. We nibbled one last pastry with our espresso as we talked about all the wonderful experiences we had enjoyed on our trip.

The flight was long and uneventful, except for the inconsiderate seatmate to my left. She intruded constantly into my space, allowing her personal items to migrate toward my feet. She took up the entire armrest, often covering it with a pillow, which made it very difficult for me to use the buttons on the armrest. She repeatedly jabbed me with her elbow, and not once did she apologize or even acknowledge it. At lunchtime, the woman knocked her salad off onto my foot. I was very glad the lid remained in place! 

Our layover in Chicago was extremely long - six hours! Craig and Des had split the cost of a day pass to the Admiral's club, or whatever it was called. It was a treat to relax in quiet, comfortable surroundings. I felt as if I could have taken a nap! There was plenty of complimentary food and drink, in addition to a bar area. We read our books, watched the Kentucky Derby, and played a couple of games. At last, our flight was called and we knew we would soon be home.

We arrived in Wichita, exhausted, at around 8 PM. Craig took a photo of me in the airport. Our new terminal would be due to open very soon, and we knew we would never be in this one again. We said a fond farewell to the old terminal. It had served us well.

A very tired traveler.

Paris When it Rains

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: May 1, 2015

A light drizzle was falling when I awoke.  As I gazed out onto the square, the dreary greyness seemed to reflect my emotions. I was sad to be leaving Orléans once again. I shook the feeling off with a reminder that I had just experienced a fantastic vacation in Europe with some of my favorite people. Each day had been filled with smiles, laughter, and adventure. Even the smallest things had given me pleasure, happiness, and memories to last a lifetime. I stuffed a few remaining items into my suitcase and then joined Desmond and Craig for coffee. 

May 1 is labor day in France, which meant that many businesses and services were closed, including the tram. We had ordered a taxi to take us across town to the train station. Des was going to accompany us to Paris so that we could all enjoy one more day together. As we prepared to leave, I paused to give Azur a treat. I shook the bag of cat goodies and he ran up to me. As I watched him devour the treat, I heard meowing and chuckled while saying, "You really love those things don't you? I will bring you some more next time.". I then realized that the meowing was not coming from Azur, but from a cat on the other side of the heavy wooden door! We opened the door to discover her on the landing. The little stub-tailed feline was loudly demanding a share of Azur's tasty "foreign" food. We could not resist. After all, she had come all the way up the stairs. How she had heard the sound of those treats shaking inside the bag, I will never know. 

The friendly neighborhood kitty.

Before long, the taxi arrived. As we rolled through the streets of Orléans, I savored every glimpse of the old avenues and beautiful stone buildings. At the station, we bought more coffee and a few pastries to eat while waiting for the train. I reached into my bag for my camera, wanting to take a picture of Des as he huddled on the stone bench near the platform. It wasn't there. I searched every pocket of my purse but was unable to find my camera. OR MY PHONE!! I suddenly recalled that I had left those items on chargers back at the house. Desmond offered to run home for them, or to rent a bike to zip across Orléans. He was certain he could make it there and back before our train was due. But no, I was too afraid that he might slip on wet cobblestones. I would just have to live without them for a while until they could be shipped back to America. 

After an uneventful train ride, we were greeted in Paris by light rain and a chill breeze. We checked into the hotel and relaxed for a while in our rooms before going out for lunch. We had all agreed that pizza sounded good, but were soon dismayed to learn that many of the restaurants were closed on this national holiday. After sloshing up and down the streets surrounding our hotel, we came almost full circle to a warm, inviting brasserie just steps from the hotel. No pizza was served there, but by then we had ceased to care. 

I wish I could remember the name of the restaurant so that I could share it. It was a nice place, with attractive decor and attentive, polite, wait staff. (And one of the cleanest bathrooms I had ever seen in France!) The food was plentiful and tasty. The bread was some of the most delicious any of us had ever eaten. Our waiter refilled the bread basket several times, as we just couldn't seem to get enough! I enjoyed my shepherd's pie. It was the perfect comfort food on this cold, rainy day. 

The view from our hotel room in Paris.
We were at the Ibis Tour Eiffel Cambronne.

And then - what to do on a rainy day in Paris when museums and shops are closed? The three of us gathered in our hotel room and began scrolling through our ipads and phones in search of an indoor activity. At last, one of us found that the museum of chocolate was indeed open! It took some effort to get there - twelve stops on the Metro, a transfer, and another five stops - but it was worth it. The Musée Gourmand du Chocolat is a little gem. We learned many fascinating facts about the discovery and uses of chocolate over the centuries. There were wonderful displays of ancient artifacts for making chocolate, and delicate china cups from which royalty sipped their frothy cocoa.  And at the very end, we watched a presentation which demonstrated how chocolate is tempered, molded, etc. As we filed out toward their unique gift shop, we were invited to help ourselves to samples of several different candies, including a rare and exquisite chocolate that had an earthy, delicious flavor. The museum is worth a visit for adults and children, if you can tear yourselves away from the more well-known sights of Paris.

The Paris Metro.

Lots of stairs at the Metro stop.

On our previous trips to France, we had always ended our vacation with a visit to the Eiffel Tower. It's our way of bidding adieu to France, to our son, and to all the people and places that have made our time there so very pleasant and memorable. That night was an exception. The weather had become even more damp and blustery until the idea of a trek in the cold and wet was just too much, even for a last view of the Iron Lady. Instead, the three of us found ourselves in a cozy Italian restaurant where we had a delightful meal. That was followed by a lively game of Scattergories in the warmth and comfort of the hotel. It was a perfectly wonderful way to end the evening.

Desmond enjoyed veal picatta on our last night in Paris.

Ah, we finally found some pizza!

TRAVEL TIP: It is a good idea to make yourself aware of any holidays which occur in the country you are planning to visit. You can then make your plans based upon the availability of public transportation, services, restaurants, museums, and other attractions. Bon voyage!