Au Revoir for Now, Paris!

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, June 26 2017

We all slept in a bit and woke to a lovely, cool morning. We were in for another rather warm day, but as it was our last day in Paris, we were determined to make the most of it. Craig and Des went out to the nearby bakery, where they picked up some delicious pastries for breakfast. We all shared the fresh beignets and Tropezienne. 

Craig and Des return
 with pastries for breakfast.

After breakfast, we walked toward the Eiffel Tower and then took the stone steps down to river level. We had decided that a good way to show more of Paris to Janey would be to ride on the Batobus. The water taxi was a fun and convenient way to visit many of the attractions along the Seine. We cruised slowly down the busy river, enjoying the architecture and other lovely sights along the famous waterway. 

A pretty view down the Seine.

The Orsay Museum,
which is still on my bucket list.

Yes, I could live there!

The four of us disembarked at the stop for the Louvre. We weren't planning to visit that iconic museum on this trip, but instead were heading for the Japanese neighborhood not far from the grounds of the Louvre. Desmond led us to a restaurant where he had previously enjoyed a meal. We perused the extensive menu and each of us chose a different ramen noodle bowl for lunch. It was very authentic and quite delicious.

A freshly made ramen noodle bowl in Paris.

Leaving the restaurant after that delightful meal, we ambled slowly along the picturesque street, window shopping. We stepped into a Japanese market, where Janey especially enjoyed browsing. She purchased some treats for herself and also bought items for her friends at home. Soon, we were headed back toward the landing on the Seine to wait for the Batobus.

The sun warmed the interior of the boat, and we were all beginning to feel the heat. We looked forward to cooling off with a dish of ice cream at Berthillion, but soon realized that we would have to backtrack quite a bit to get there. 

Janey cools off on the stern of the boat.

We remained on our little boat until we reached the Trocadero, and as we walked back toward our apartment, we knew we would find a shop which sold ice cream. It turned out to be more difficult than we anticipated, but we eventually located a bar which sold ice cream. When the waiter placed the frosty dishes on the table, Desmond thanked him in with a cheerful "merci, monsieur". He replied in a slightly mocking tone, "Oh, you speak French very well, I see.", at which point Des answered back with a long stream of French, telling the waiter that of course he had better speak French well as he had lived in the country for ten years and taught at the university of Orleans. The look on that waiters face was priceless, and he actually apologized! We chuckled all the way back to the apartment.

So tasty on a hot day in Paris!

And then it was time to pack. Desmond and I struggled with our bags, trying to decide which items to take with us to Florida, and which to stuff into our larger suitcases for Craig to take back to Kansas. Craig went to bed early, but Desmond, Janey, and I decided that our visit to Paris would not be complete without a goodbye to the Eiffel tower. We walked back to the Trocadero, where there was a festive atmosphere. Lively music filled the air and there were small groups of people dancing. Some had spread blankets on the grass and were enjoying a light meal or a bottle of wine. Many other tourists were scrambling around, looking for the best vantage point from which to view the iconic Iron Lady as she lit up the evening sky. The three of us sat on the concrete edge of one of the fountains and watched the sun begin to set behind the Eiffel Tower. The coolness in the air was refreshing, and as the Eiffel Tower lit up and began to sparkle, a cheer arose from the waiting crowd. Janey threw her hands in the air and yelled "I can't believe I'm in Paris!"  

The camera just couldn't capture
 the beautiful spectacle of the glittering lights.

Four for Paris

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, June 25 2017

We woke early so that we would all have time for showers before Desmond, Craig and Janey left for the Catacombs of Paris. They were hoping to arrive in time to avoid a long wait in line and said they would pick up pastries for their breakfast along the way. I had decided not to accompany them because of my claustrophobia. Wandering around in dank underground passageways lined with millions of human bones did not appeal to me. I lingered over my coffee for a while, with the windows open to the coolness of the morning and the distant sound of cathedral bells ringing. It wasn't long before I ventured out of the building and strolled along the tree-lined streets of Paris, peeking into store windows. Most shops and even many bakeries are closed on Sunday, but I was certain that I would discover a boulangerie or patisserie nearby that was open. It didn't take long to locate one, and I stood patiently in line, eyeing the delectable treats which were on display in the glass cases. When it was my turn, I purchased a cafe eclair and headed back to the apartment to enjoy it with some fresh coffee.

My Sunday breakfast in Paris

Afterward, I tidied the rooms and then sat down with my iPad to see if there was a nearby covered market to visit. I was pleased to find that the Passy Market was just a four-minute walk from my location. An article I read about the markets of Paris stated that it is one of the best covered markets in Paris and went on to say that the baguettes there are not to be missed. The market was a truly amazing place, filled with color, culinary delights, and enticing aromas. I had fun choosing fresh fruit from one stall, a jar of onion jam from another, some duck mousse from still another stall and then was delighted to find the famous baguettes. While I was shopping, Craig called to see what I was up to and he, Des, and Janey decided to join me. They also enjoyed the market, but soon were ready for a break, so we walked the short distance to our temporary home. They told me all about their visit to the Catacombs and showed off some photos as well.

Fresh delights at the Passy Market.

So much from which to choose!

Janey in the Catacombs of Paris.

Desmond in the Catacombs.

We made up a little indoor picnic with the duck mousse, onion jam, the baguette, ham-wrapped boursin bites, sushi, crispy bits of duck fat (which are probably supposed to be a salad topping), and fresh fruit. I told everyone that I was thrilled to have snagged one of the popular baguettes before the stall ran out, and we could hardly wait to try it. Well, my exciting purchase soon turned into a joke as we discovered it was rock-hard inside and out! It was like trying to slice and eat a baseball bat! In fact, that baguette was so hard that it could have been used as a weapon! Desmond said that perhaps I had been given the display baguette and I think that he may have been correct.

An indoor picnic in Paris.

We left the apartment and began walking toward the Trocadero and the Eiffel Tower. Janey was in awe of the Iron Lady, and of course we took lots of pictures. There was the usual crepe stand nearby, and while my little party was standing in line, I backed up to snap a photo of them. The two ladies working the stand immediately began yelling at me to stop and made it very clear that we were not take any pictures of them. I thought this seemed odd, because we were visiting one of the most popular tourist sites in the world, where everyone takes pictures!  After a very long wait, during which we began to wonder if we were being punished for photographing them, one of the ladies finally handed us our crepes and we walked off toward the fountains of the Trocadero. 

Janey at the Trocadero.

The day had warmed and there were tourists lounging on the grassy areas and some were even splashing around in the basin of the huge fountains in spite of a lovely cool breeze. We passed one of the carousels, with its load of happy children. We sauntered across the Pont d’Iena, the bridge which spans the Seine. Security around the Eiffel Tower had changed tremendously from our last visit. A fence surrounded the base of the tower, and everyone who wanted to enter the area had to submit to a bag search and a once-over with an electronic wand. Once inside the fenced area, we had lots of room in which to stroll around and enjoy the view. There were no pressing crowds and no beggars or street performers, so we were able to focus our attention on the massive iron structure above us. 

It was a beautiful day for a climb.

Janey and Des pause for a photo
on the stairs of the Eiffel Tower.

My intrepid adventurers decided to climb the stairs to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. After all the walking they had done on their jaunt to the Catacombs, I was surprised but I settled myself on a bench in the shade and happily enjoyed people-watching as I waited for the climbers to return. All around me I could hear many different languages as tourists from all parts of the globe chattered excitedly while they photographed the iconic iron landmark towering above. When Craig, Desmond, and Janey reached their destination, they purchased cold drinks (avoiding the 12-euro glasses of wine) and rested a bit before making their descent. 

A view from the across Paris from the Eiffel Tower.

The four of us then rode the metro to Montmartre. Desmond climbed the stairs to the top where the Sacre Coeur Basilica overlooks Paris, while Craig, Janey, and I rode up in the crowded Funicular. We made it to the top just a few seconds after Desmond. We found our way to the famous Place du Tertre. In existence since 1635, the square was buzzing with artists and tourists. By then, it was time for lunch. We chose to sit outside in a shaded area and ordered meals from Le Sabot Rouge. I chose roast chicken with a candied thyme sauce, accompanied by crispy fries, Janey and Craig each had a pasta dish, while Des enjoyed a big helping of moules frites. I was surprised that Janey chose not to try one of the mussels; She had been quite adventurous on our vacation so far. We all enjoyed our food and the lively surroundings. 

Moules frites in Montmartre

The entire square was lively and festive, with artists at work, chattering tourists, music, street performers, and more. We found an artist to do a charcoal sketch of Janey as a gift for her mom. While the artist was at work, I wandered through the square taking photographs and admiring the many different styles of paintings that were on display.

Our next stop was Sacre Coeur. Because it was Sunday, the cathedral was crowded with worshipers hearing mass, but we tourists were being allowed in to a limited part of the impressive cathedral. We all walked around very quietly and reverently. Once outside, we walked down the massive staircase, admiring the view of Paris which lay below. We were fortunate to be entertained by one of the most famous street performers in Paris, Iya, who does an incredible show by climbing a light pole and using a soccer ball in a very athletic  and acrobatic display of talent. 

Sacre Couer on a busy Sunday in Paris

The lovely view from the steps of Sacre Coeur Basilica.

Iya put on an incredible performance
 of strength and agility.

Before we returned to our apartment, we stopped at a market and purchased items for a cold supper. It had been a wonderful and exciting day in Paris. We enjoyed showing the sights to Janey as we revisited one of our favorite cities in the world.