Was It Inevitable?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, 04-22-22

Our first morning in France since December 2018! It was a lovely morning, too. Sunshine and a gentle breeze got us off to a great start. Desmond went to a nearby bakery where he picked up several pastries. I enjoyed a coffee éclair, some REAL strawberries, and part of a pain au chocolate. Then we were out the door to explore. 

THIS is what a strawberry should look like!
And it tasted as good as it looked.

We had planned to visit a museum. Desmond suggested the Rodin Museum because many of the sculptures are outdoors in the beautifully landscaped grounds and we wanted to be outside as much as possible. After exiting the metro, the walk to the museum was very pleasant, with the sights and sounds of a bustling morning in Paris. We arrived just as the museum opened and had a wonderful time strolling through the sculpture gardens. There were many fascinating works to view and learn about. Of course, we couldn’t miss the displays inside the beautiful building which housed many treasures and was once where Rodin lived and maintained his studio. 

Musée Rodin, with the golden dome
 of Invalides in the background

                                 

The Thinker

The Kiss

It was nearing lunchtime when we left the museum. The three of us decided to hop aboard a Batobus to get to our next destination. We disembarked at the stop for the Louvre and headed past it to find a certain restaurant in which we had lunched on a previous visit. Kadoya is a Japanese restaurant which serves amazing ramen. We found it to be as good as we had remembered. 

Delicious ramen at Kadoya

A short stroll later brought us back to the Seine where we boarded another Batobus to the Eiffel Tower stop. We went past the long lines of tourists waiting to gain entrance to the grounds beneath the tower and found a shady spot on the grassy Champs de Mars. Many people were resting there, or taking photos. Some of the visitors were picnicking, while children ran around kicking a soccer ball. A few people were napping in the shade or sunning themselves on the grass. It was a welcome break and a good time for us to put in a call to Marjorie.  

A lovely view along the Seine

There is a lot of work taking place
 in and around the Tour Eiffel.

After a while, we returned to the Batobus where we waited in a long line beside the Seine. At our next stop, we arrived at Notre Dame. The cathedral was a sad sight, still undergoing reconstruction from the tragic fire three years previously. We didn’t go near the site, but instead headed in the opposite direction. 

The restoration of Notre Dame is ongoing.

Desmond led us toward Odette, pausing along the way to show us the oldest tree in Paris.  This hardy acacia was brought from America and planted in 1601 and is said to be the mother of all the black locust trees in France. She's rather beat up from the shelling in WWII and relies on support to remain standing. We paid our respects to her and then in moments we had arrived at Odette. 

The oldest tree in Paris

Our visit to Odette was a delight!

This charming patisserie, located in a picturesque 17th century building at the end of a little cobbled lane, sells only cream puffs. They are said to be the best cream puffs in Paris, and I’m inclined to agree. They come in a variety of flavors, so we each chose two different ones and ordered coffee and hot chocolate to accompany them. There were only a few tables outside and we were happy to find a vacant one where we could enjoy our delightful treats. The building has an upper floor tearoom from which you would have a view of Notre Dame, and I believe they offer other types of pastries, too. We were happy to be outside on that gorgeous spring day.

Wish you were here?

Just a one-minute walk from Odette, you will find Shakespeare and Company. Craig and I had wanted to visit this iconic shop for many years. Desmond had been there many times and was thrilled to show us the place, and though we could not take photos inside it was a wonderful and unique experience. The legendary bookshop is a magical place and has a fascinating history. It's a must-see in Paris. 

It was a long line, but worth the wait.

We began to work our way back toward Montmartre, with the intention of picking up goodies for a picnic at Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. We boarded the metro and were halfway to Montmartre when Craig’s wallet was lifted from his front jeans pocket by a thief! All three of us had felt uneasy about the two young men who were standing so close to Des and Craig. I was seated near them as they held onto a pole on the crowded subway. As the cars began to slow, one of the men dropped his phone at Craig’s feet (as a distraction) while the other went for my husband’s wallet. Craig realized what was happening and clamped his hand over his pocket a split second too late. The subway doors opened and the two men jumped out, followed closely by Craig and Desmond. There was no time for me to hop out, but just as the doors were closing, one of the thieves jumped back in. All of that happened in about 4 seconds! I decided to follow the crook when he left the metro at the next stop. I figured that I could at least see where he met up with his buddy. He was walking quickly, and as he was about to head up the stairs to street level I realized how foolish it would be to follow the crook. All it would take was one hard shove and I’d be out of commission before our vacation had even begun. 

I turned to find a bench and wait for my husband and son. Within just a few minutes, they appeared. I knew they’d find me, as we have always had a plan that if ever any one of us missed a stop, we would all meet up at the next one. They had caught up with the first thief, who told him that it was the other guy who had the wallet. Of course he would say that, but what could Craig and Desmond have done? We set about contacting our bank and credit card companies to lock the cards. Then we walked to the nearest police station to file a report. We had a long wait, followed by the lengthy process of actually writing down all the details. Desmond was a huge help, inputting everything in French. As I waited, I noticed a distraught young man nearby filing the same kind of report with another officer. In the coming days when we shared this story, nearly every one of Desmond’s friends would nod sympathetically and say that the same thing had happened to them in Paris. They said that a pickpocket or purse-snatching is almost inevitable if you are a frequent visitor to Paris. In the end, all was well. The cards were locked in time and all Craig lost aside from the debit and credit cards were his Covid vaccine card, drivers license, and insurance cards. Those things were replaceable. The thieves didn’t even make off with any cash, as Craig always keeps his cash in another pocket. And since I had my debit card and a credit card, we were just fine. By the time we returned to Montmartre, it was too late for a picnic, so Craig and Des picked up items for another indoor feast. We played a game after dinner and then went to bed early. All things considered, it was a wonderful day.

Our lovely AirBnB was in
this building in Montmartre.

Tip: I always wear my purse cross-body, which helps prevent theft. I have heard that some thieves cut straps or cut into a shoulder bag, but I don't know of anyone who has experienced that. You could invest in a costly "theft-proof" bag, I suppose. There are many types of anti-theft clothing for men and women, and even a wallet that clips to a belt loop. My husband has arthritis in both hands which makes it difficult for him to manipulate clips, security zippers and the like. That is why he has always just carried his wallet in the usual way. Even so, I might order something for him to try on our next journey to France.

Au Revoir for Now, Paris!

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, June 26 2017

We all slept in a bit and woke to a lovely, cool morning. We were in for another rather warm day, but as it was our last day in Paris, we were determined to make the most of it. Craig and Des went out to the nearby bakery, where they picked up some delicious pastries for breakfast. We all shared the fresh beignets and Tropezienne. 

Craig and Des return
 with pastries for breakfast.

After breakfast, we walked toward the Eiffel Tower and then took the stone steps down to river level. We had decided that a good way to show more of Paris to Janey would be to ride on the Batobus. The water taxi was a fun and convenient way to visit many of the attractions along the Seine. We cruised slowly down the busy river, enjoying the architecture and other lovely sights along the famous waterway. 

A pretty view down the Seine.

The Orsay Museum,
which is still on my bucket list.

Yes, I could live there!

The four of us disembarked at the stop for the Louvre. We weren't planning to visit that iconic museum on this trip, but instead were heading for the Japanese neighborhood not far from the grounds of the Louvre. Desmond led us to a restaurant where he had previously enjoyed a meal. We perused the extensive menu and each of us chose a different ramen noodle bowl for lunch. It was very authentic and quite delicious.

A freshly made ramen noodle bowl in Paris.

Leaving the restaurant after that delightful meal, we ambled slowly along the picturesque street, window shopping. We stepped into a Japanese market, where Janey especially enjoyed browsing. She purchased some treats for herself and also bought items for her friends at home. Soon, we were headed back toward the landing on the Seine to wait for the Batobus.

The sun warmed the interior of the boat, and we were all beginning to feel the heat. We looked forward to cooling off with a dish of ice cream at Berthillion, but soon realized that we would have to backtrack quite a bit to get there. 

Janey cools off on the stern of the boat.

We remained on our little boat until we reached the Trocadero, and as we walked back toward our apartment, we knew we would find a shop which sold ice cream. It turned out to be more difficult than we anticipated, but we eventually located a bar which sold ice cream. When the waiter placed the frosty dishes on the table, Desmond thanked him in with a cheerful "merci, monsieur". He replied in a slightly mocking tone, "Oh, you speak French very well, I see.", at which point Des answered back with a long stream of French, telling the waiter that of course he had better speak French well as he had lived in the country for ten years and taught at the university of Orleans. The look on that waiters face was priceless, and he actually apologized! We chuckled all the way back to the apartment.

So tasty on a hot day in Paris!

And then it was time to pack. Desmond and I struggled with our bags, trying to decide which items to take with us to Florida, and which to stuff into our larger suitcases for Craig to take back to Kansas. Craig went to bed early, but Desmond, Janey, and I decided that our visit to Paris would not be complete without a goodbye to the Eiffel tower. We walked back to the Trocadero, where there was a festive atmosphere. Lively music filled the air and there were small groups of people dancing. Some had spread blankets on the grass and were enjoying a light meal or a bottle of wine. Many other tourists were scrambling around, looking for the best vantage point from which to view the iconic Iron Lady as she lit up the evening sky. The three of us sat on the concrete edge of one of the fountains and watched the sun begin to set behind the Eiffel Tower. The coolness in the air was refreshing, and as the Eiffel Tower lit up and began to sparkle, a cheer arose from the waiting crowd. Janey threw her hands in the air and yelled "I can't believe I'm in Paris!"  

The camera just couldn't capture
 the beautiful spectacle of the glittering lights.

Four for Paris

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, June 25 2017

We woke early so that we would all have time for showers before Desmond, Craig and Janey left for the Catacombs of Paris. They were hoping to arrive in time to avoid a long wait in line and said they would pick up pastries for their breakfast along the way. I had decided not to accompany them because of my claustrophobia. Wandering around in dank underground passageways lined with millions of human bones did not appeal to me. I lingered over my coffee for a while, with the windows open to the coolness of the morning and the distant sound of cathedral bells ringing. It wasn't long before I ventured out of the building and strolled along the tree-lined streets of Paris, peeking into store windows. Most shops and even many bakeries are closed on Sunday, but I was certain that I would discover a boulangerie or patisserie nearby that was open. It didn't take long to locate one, and I stood patiently in line, eyeing the delectable treats which were on display in the glass cases. When it was my turn, I purchased a cafe eclair and headed back to the apartment to enjoy it with some fresh coffee.

My Sunday breakfast in Paris

Afterward, I tidied the rooms and then sat down with my iPad to see if there was a nearby covered market to visit. I was pleased to find that the Passy Market was just a four-minute walk from my location. An article I read about the markets of Paris stated that it is one of the best covered markets in Paris and went on to say that the baguettes there are not to be missed. The market was a truly amazing place, filled with color, culinary delights, and enticing aromas. I had fun choosing fresh fruit from one stall, a jar of onion jam from another, some duck mousse from still another stall and then was delighted to find the famous baguettes. While I was shopping, Craig called to see what I was up to and he, Des, and Janey decided to join me. They also enjoyed the market, but soon were ready for a break, so we walked the short distance to our temporary home. They told me all about their visit to the Catacombs and showed off some photos as well.

Fresh delights at the Passy Market.

So much from which to choose!

Janey in the Catacombs of Paris.

Desmond in the Catacombs.

We made up a little indoor picnic with the duck mousse, onion jam, the baguette, ham-wrapped boursin bites, sushi, crispy bits of duck fat (which are probably supposed to be a salad topping), and fresh fruit. I told everyone that I was thrilled to have snagged one of the popular baguettes before the stall ran out, and we could hardly wait to try it. Well, my exciting purchase soon turned into a joke as we discovered it was rock-hard inside and out! It was like trying to slice and eat a baseball bat! In fact, that baguette was so hard that it could have been used as a weapon! Desmond said that perhaps I had been given the display baguette and I think that he may have been correct.

An indoor picnic in Paris.

We left the apartment and began walking toward the Trocadero and the Eiffel Tower. Janey was in awe of the Iron Lady, and of course we took lots of pictures. There was the usual crepe stand nearby, and while my little party was standing in line, I backed up to snap a photo of them. The two ladies working the stand immediately began yelling at me to stop and made it very clear that we were not take any pictures of them. I thought this seemed odd, because we were visiting one of the most popular tourist sites in the world, where everyone takes pictures!  After a very long wait, during which we began to wonder if we were being punished for photographing them, one of the ladies finally handed us our crepes and we walked off toward the fountains of the Trocadero. 

Janey at the Trocadero.

The day had warmed and there were tourists lounging on the grassy areas and some were even splashing around in the basin of the huge fountains in spite of a lovely cool breeze. We passed one of the carousels, with its load of happy children. We sauntered across the Pont d’Iena, the bridge which spans the Seine. Security around the Eiffel Tower had changed tremendously from our last visit. A fence surrounded the base of the tower, and everyone who wanted to enter the area had to submit to a bag search and a once-over with an electronic wand. Once inside the fenced area, we had lots of room in which to stroll around and enjoy the view. There were no pressing crowds and no beggars or street performers, so we were able to focus our attention on the massive iron structure above us. 

It was a beautiful day for a climb.

Janey and Des pause for a photo
on the stairs of the Eiffel Tower.

My intrepid adventurers decided to climb the stairs to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. After all the walking they had done on their jaunt to the Catacombs, I was surprised but I settled myself on a bench in the shade and happily enjoyed people-watching as I waited for the climbers to return. All around me I could hear many different languages as tourists from all parts of the globe chattered excitedly while they photographed the iconic iron landmark towering above. When Craig, Desmond, and Janey reached their destination, they purchased cold drinks (avoiding the 12-euro glasses of wine) and rested a bit before making their descent. 

A view from the across Paris from the Eiffel Tower.

The four of us then rode the metro to Montmartre. Desmond climbed the stairs to the top where the Sacre Coeur Basilica overlooks Paris, while Craig, Janey, and I rode up in the crowded Funicular. We made it to the top just a few seconds after Desmond. We found our way to the famous Place du Tertre. In existence since 1635, the square was buzzing with artists and tourists. By then, it was time for lunch. We chose to sit outside in a shaded area and ordered meals from Le Sabot Rouge. I chose roast chicken with a candied thyme sauce, accompanied by crispy fries, Janey and Craig each had a pasta dish, while Des enjoyed a big helping of moules frites. I was surprised that Janey chose not to try one of the mussels; She had been quite adventurous on our vacation so far. We all enjoyed our food and the lively surroundings. 

Moules frites in Montmartre

The entire square was lively and festive, with artists at work, chattering tourists, music, street performers, and more. We found an artist to do a charcoal sketch of Janey as a gift for her mom. While the artist was at work, I wandered through the square taking photographs and admiring the many different styles of paintings that were on display.

Our next stop was Sacre Coeur. Because it was Sunday, the cathedral was crowded with worshipers hearing mass, but we tourists were being allowed in to a limited part of the impressive cathedral. We all walked around very quietly and reverently. Once outside, we walked down the massive staircase, admiring the view of Paris which lay below. We were fortunate to be entertained by one of the most famous street performers in Paris, Iya, who does an incredible show by climbing a light pole and using a soccer ball in a very athletic  and acrobatic display of talent. 

Sacre Couer on a busy Sunday in Paris

The lovely view from the steps of Sacre Coeur Basilica.

Iya put on an incredible performance
 of strength and agility.

Before we returned to our apartment, we stopped at a market and purchased items for a cold supper. It had been a wonderful and exciting day in Paris. We enjoyed showing the sights to Janey as we revisited one of our favorite cities in the world.  

Paris in the Rain

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 28 2016

It was our last morning in Orléans for a while. Our suitcases were open on the floor, waiting for those last-minute items to be tucked inside. We made one last walk to our favorite bakery, where I purchased a tasty chocolate-filled beignet and said goodbye to the sweet ladies at the counter. It was warm and cozy inside as we watched the raindrops roll down the window.

After breakfast, we finished the last few details of the new cabinets for Desmond's kitchen. When everything was in place, we patted ourselves on the back as we admired the finished pieces. With the countertop secured, the kitchen looked complete. It provided much more prep space and lots of storage.

Before long, the three of us were headed for the train station. We took the tram to Les Aubrais, where we caught the 11:00 train for Paris. We found seats together and sat back for the hour-long journey to Paris. It was raining lightly when we arrived, but that failed to dampen our spirits. Paris is lovely no matter the weather. Our taxi deposited us at the Hotel de l'Avre, a very charming and delightful place. We knew it would be too early for us to check in, but we were allowed to stow our bags until we returned at 3:00.

The Hotel de l'Avre in Paris, France

We began to explore. The hotel was a short distance from the Eiffel Tower, so we walked in that direction. The streets were bustling in spite of the rain. We found a cute little crêperie called Framboise, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch at a table near the window. The gallettes were wonderful. We finished with dessert crepes that were a perfect ending to the meal.

Lunch at Framboise in Paris, France

A refreshing crepe citron

We set out again toward the Eiffel Tower and soon arrived to find many huge tour buses parked along the side streets. Several areas were blocked off because of a marathon that had just taken place. The Champ de Mars was teeming with runners, locals, and tourists. All of us were sidestepping the puddles as we gaped at our surroundings. The rain had let up and there were vendors walking around offering selfie sticks for sale. They seemed to be a hot item. We saw many people using them to set up the perfect shot with the Eiffel Tower in the background. 

When we returned to the hotel, we were charmed by the lovely rooms that had been assigned to us. They were very cozy and were decorated with what looked like antiques. Many of the pieces were old clocks. The roomy bathrooms featured large bathtubs, which are a treat to find in a French hotel. The windows overlooked a sweet little graveled courtyard. Had the weather been nicer, I'm certain we would have enjoyed sitting in the garden, savoring a hot beverage. Instead, we found a neighborhood bar and warmed up over mugs of Irish coffee.

Just part of the lobby at Hotel de l'Avre, Paris

Our charming room at Hotel de l'Avre, Paris

Hotel de l'Avre had a sweet little courtyard.

For dinner that evening, Desmond had found an Italian restaurant called Chez Thomas, just a short walk from the hotel. The waitress was very sweet and animated; she actually kidded around with us a bit. My appetizer of bruschetta was fresh and delicious. Craig's antipasto was served on a bed of lettuce, which he left on the plate. The waitress good-naturedly chided him for not finishing his vegetables. His main course was also accompanied by a lot of greens, and when he had finished his meal, he quickly swapped plates with Desmond so that the server wouldn't notice he had not eaten his vegetables! She was onto his tricks and was soon standing beside him, hand on hip, tapping her foot and waggling her finger at him. We all burst out laughing as he was busted! 

Delicious bruschetta at Chez Thomas, Paris

I devoured my plateful of chicken and mushrooms in cream sauce, served over pasta. It wasn't exactly an Alfredo dish, but was lighter and very flavorful. Dessert was crème brûlée for me, and panna cotta for Craig and Des. It was such a fun evening that it was hard to feel sad that our wonderful vacation was ending. We walked back through the rain to our hotel, where I later had a nice, long soak in that huge tub.  

A rainy day in Paris is still better than a sunny day anywhere else.

I Stand With Paris

The terror and images of Friday, November 13, 2015 are etched in my mind. It has taken days for me to come to grips with it enough to be able to write a few words. I am so grateful that Desmond is safe. I am thankful that the many friends and acquaintances I know in France are also safe and accounted for. My heart hurts over the horrible loss of life in Paris, and indeed in other parts of the world. Though I am filled with sadness, my heart swells with love and admiration for the French. Their resilience and spirit is astonishing. They will not allow acts of barbarism and terror to destroy their love of life. I will be returning to France in the spring, where I will join in the everyday celebration of life in one of the most magnificent places on earth. I could write a long post detailing my feelings and thoughts on the world situation, but instead, I choose to fill this page with some of my favorite photos of Paris. Vive la France!