Distractions

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 29 2018

We awoke after a restless night of tears and little sleep. Desmond had slipped out early and picked up an assortment of pastries, which I vaguely remember choosing from. I think we were all a bit numb by then.

The previous afternoon, Craig had been successful in his attempts to change our plane tickets. He and I would be able to return to Kansas on January 1 so that we could make funeral arrangements for the woman who had meant so much to all of us. The wonderful clerk at Delta Airlines had gone above and beyond with her kind and compassionate assistance. Desmond, too, did more than his share. He insisted on returning to Orléans on the train that night, where he packed up our things and cleaned our little AirBnB. He explained to our host what had occurred and then after a few hours sleep in his own home, boarded a return train for Lyon. It was a loving gesture and was much appreciated.

Though the three of us were numb with grief, we chose to soldier on. What we lacked in exuberance, we made up for in a dogged determination to continue with what remained of our vacation. We met up with Florent for a tour of the traboules, the secret passageways which were very important during the many years of silk trade in Lyon. The covered walkways and staircases were used to transport the silk, thus keeping the delicate fabric safe from the elements. It was intriguing to explore a few of the traboules and learn something about the architecture of old Lyon. I regret that I didn't get any interior photos of the traboules, but it was shadowy inside and the floors were a bit uneven.

Waiting for our tour to begin

Our morning tour ended at a silk weavers museum in which it was possible to view the actual silk screening process. It was much more involved than I had imagined and the end products of hand-painted silks were astonishingly beautiful. Scarves, ties, and garments were available for purchase, though most were way out of my price range. I can’t say that tears were not shed as we explored the museum and the beautiful area in which the buildings for the huge looms had been built years ago. Many times, I encountered things that I knew my mother would have been delighted to see.

Explaining the silk-screening process

Silk being painted by hand; a tedious
 process with a beautiful result!

The finished product will be stunning!

The four of us lunched at Crock n Roll, a trendy bistro which served many unique croque sandwiches, along with craft beer and other tasty offerings. I chose the croque Germain. which was made with smoked ham, emmental cheese, and bechamel. It was a nice break with good food and great company.

Croque monsieur Germain

A fountain near city hall in Lyon, France

After lunch, we made our way up to La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere on the high hill, using the crowded funicular. I was grateful to ride up the steep hillside instead of having to walk. I doubt I could have done it! The cathedral was lovely, though oddly built. It had been criticized during its construction in the 1800s and was said to resemble an elephant lying on its back! Inside were some fabulous mosaics. The afternoon had become rather chilly, with an unwelcome breeze which cut right through my jacket. We warmed ourselves with coffee and hot chocolate and some delightful pastries purchased from a small establishment next to the basilica.

The basilica on the hill above Lyon

 Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Lovely artwork inside the cathedral

The Roman ruins and museum were next, and had been high on our list of must-see attractions in Lyon. We were not disappointed. The theater, which had been built for plays and concerts over 2,000 years ago, was large and in surprisingly good condition. There was a good view of the city from its position on the hillside.

One of the ancient Roman theaters in Lyon

The museum was fascinating and was filled with hundreds of objects which were discovered locally. It is said that even now, people are likely to discover coins, pottery shards, or other artifacts simply while digging in their own gardens! I was most impressed by the glassware. Some of those pieces were of colored glass and were ornamented with scrolled handles or other decoration. Amazingly, many were completely intact. I also liked the little oil lamps which were made from the local stone. Replicas were available in the gift shop, and I very nearly bought one.

A detailed floor mosaic from Roman times

Remains of a Roman cart used to trasport wine-filled urns

Our evening meal was at a restaurant which served crepes, something we can never seem to get enough of. I enjoyed a hearty tartiflette gallette which was followed by a decadent salted caramel crepe.

It had been an interesting day, filled with hours of unique sights. We had been distracted from our grief for a while, and that was a good thing.

Shopping and Eating. What's Not to Like?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 22 2018

After coffee and Madeleines, Craig and I made our way to Desmond’s where we enjoyed more coffee with some chocolate and banana breakfast cookies that our son had made.The plan for the day was to get serious about Christmas shopping. We decided it would be best to split up, so Craig and Des headed for the Christmas market while I wandered around town. I enjoyed popping into interesting little shops and choosing small items for stocking stuffers.

Craig captured this view from the Ferris wheel.

At lunchtime, we met at the little noodle shop on the square near Desmond’s apartment. We watched the owner making fresh noodles as our own dishes were being prepared by his wife. When our food arrived, we eagerly dug into the garlicky noodles, pork, and vegetables. It was a delicious and satisfying lunch. As we were eating, the little cat who lives in the building next to Desmond came to the door of the noodle shop, begging for a handout. The owners told us that this little "stray" shows up every day and they just couldn't resist her. Lily was busted when Des explained that she was not a stray, and we all had a good laugh! I'm surprised the cat isn't overweight, because she always looking for a bit to eat at the different establishments on the square.

Fresh noodles? Yes, please!

A delicious lunchtime treat

After our meal, Craig went out shopping alone while Des and I teamed up and headed back into town. We had such a good time, and Des took me to some unique shops I hadn’t visited before. I am always eager to step into the chocolate shops! The aroma alone is a treat. They have such enticing displays and really go over the top at Christmas, which makes those beautiful little works of edible art even more irresistible. One shop even had a chocolate waterfall pouring down an inside wall! 

A pretty side street in Orléans

Later, we spotted Arno and a friend of his at the Christmas market. We shopped a bit with them and then decided to meet Craig at le Lutetia for coffee. We sat there for quite a while, enjoying our hot drinks in the bustling restaurant.

Père Noël is in charge of this roller coaster!

Oh, coffee, I love you too!

 
After returning to Desmond’s place, we had an easy meal of egg sandwiches and chips. We ended the evening with a board game before heading home to our own little nest. 

Cuddles with Azur

It Feels Like Home

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, Dec. 21 2018

Craig and I slept late in our comfortable king-sized bed. The apartment was cozy and warm and we felt very much at home there. We brewed a pot of dark, aromatic coffee and nibbled on a few Madeleines which Des had provided for us. Before long, we were headed over to Desmond's place just a couple of blocks away. We were looking forward to spending more time with Will. We had just missed Desmond's roommate, Art, who had crossed us on his way to America where he would spend Christmas with his family.

Azur was warm and cozy in his new bed.

Des had planned a wonderful lunch for us. He made a Korean dish of bulgogi, which is one of my favorite meals. Rice and roasted broccoli were the perfect accompaniment. Will contributed dessert to the meal. It was a delicious tarte tatin, with a wonderful caramel topping and lots of whipped cream. We enjoyed chatting with Will. He is a fun person to talk to and I'm glad he and Des are friends. 

After lunch, Desmond had to leave for work and Will needed to head back to Paris. Craig and I decided to pay another visit to the Christmas market before going grocery shopping. It was fun to wander around at the festive market and I purchased a few small items for family members at home. We then boarded a very crowded tram for a ride to the supermarket. We bought coffee and other necessities and on the way home we picked up some pastries. It was pleasant to relax in our comfy apartment and enjoy coffee and pastries while sending a few messages to relatives at home.

A Paris Brest in the shape of an eclair

When Des returned from the university, we shared a snack of sausage, cheese, and bread. Later, we went into town where we were meeting friends for drinks at l'Atelier, a cozy bar on the Rue de Borgogne. It was good to see Jeffrey and Chris again, and we met a few new people, too. One was a young German man named Karl, who was couch-surfing around the country and was currently staying with Jeff. Everyone enjoyed talking to him about his adventures and about life in Germany. We all talked and laughed for three hours! By the time we made it home, none of us were hungry, so we just called it a night.

A festive evening on Rue de Borgogne

Drinks with friends in a cozy bar

Christmas in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, Dec. 20 2018

Craig and I had been looking forward to this for quite some time - Christmas in France with our son! It had been sixteen months since we had all been together. We arrived at the train station in Orléans to find Desmond waiting for us on the platform with his friend Will, and in no time at all we were checking in to our little AirBnB. We had chosen it mainly for its close proximity to Desmond’s apartment and it turned out to be so charming and cozy that we immediately felt comfortable. 

Nothing says welcome like a heart-shaped lock.

Craig and I were able to use self-check in with the door codes provided by our host. The apartment was in an old building with such thick walls that we rarely heard any outside noise. The little bedroom had lots of storage and a very comfy king-sized bed. 

Beautiful old beams in the bedroom

A little round window for a cozy vibe

A charming weather vane
overlooking the courtyard

The kitchen had everything we required, in spite of its minuscule size. The living/dining area had plenty of room for our needs. Our host had placed a little golden Christmas tree on the fireplace mantel, which was a welcoming touch. The bathroom, though small, was as sparkling clean as the rest of the apartment. 

Ready for Christmas

Desmond and Will had left us to unpack and rest for a bit. We brewed a small pot of coffee, put our feet up, and sent a few messages home to let our family know we had arrived safely. It had been about twenty hours since Craig and I left our house in Kansas but we didn’t feel tired or jet-lagged. We were ready to meet up with Des and Will. 

Within minutes, the four of us were walking across the bridge toward the Orléans Christmas market. Everywhere we looked, there were beautiful decorations. Store windows were filled with clever holiday displays that beckoned shoppers to step inside. Lampposts and flower urns were bedecked with swags of garland and twinkling lights.  We continued our stroll and could see the huge Ferris wheel up ahead, towering over the festive marketplace.

Old and new at the Christmas market

There were lots of interesting items for sale.

Wooden booths had been constructed and set up on the square, with garlands of greenery and lights strung overhead. Each booth sold products that were handmade or manufactured in France. Many of the little huts offered enticing food items such as sausages, cheese, chocolates, and other local specialties. 

We couldn’t resist for long! The aroma of rich, creamy tartiflette drew us to a booth where we made our selections. We found a place to sit and chat while we savored every delicious bite. A few feet away was another booth from which we purchased salted caramel crepes for dessert. Oh my, but they were tasty! 

The tartiflette was irresistible!

Waffles or crepes for dessert?

It was fun to wander among the cute wooden huts. I had spotted several items which I planned to purchase for Craig and Des later. I also gazed longingly at a few things which I hoped might show up beneath the Christmas tree for me! By the time we turned for home, Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long flight and were ready to settle into our cozy apartment. 

Au Revoir for Now, Paris!

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, June 26 2017

We all slept in a bit and woke to a lovely, cool morning. We were in for another rather warm day, but as it was our last day in Paris, we were determined to make the most of it. Craig and Des went out to the nearby bakery, where they picked up some delicious pastries for breakfast. We all shared the fresh beignets and Tropezienne. 

Craig and Des return
 with pastries for breakfast.

After breakfast, we walked toward the Eiffel Tower and then took the stone steps down to river level. We had decided that a good way to show more of Paris to Janey would be to ride on the Batobus. The water taxi was a fun and convenient way to visit many of the attractions along the Seine. We cruised slowly down the busy river, enjoying the architecture and other lovely sights along the famous waterway. 

A pretty view down the Seine.

The Orsay Museum,
which is still on my bucket list.

Yes, I could live there!

The four of us disembarked at the stop for the Louvre. We weren't planning to visit that iconic museum on this trip, but instead were heading for the Japanese neighborhood not far from the grounds of the Louvre. Desmond led us to a restaurant where he had previously enjoyed a meal. We perused the extensive menu and each of us chose a different ramen noodle bowl for lunch. It was very authentic and quite delicious.

A freshly made ramen noodle bowl in Paris.

Leaving the restaurant after that delightful meal, we ambled slowly along the picturesque street, window shopping. We stepped into a Japanese market, where Janey especially enjoyed browsing. She purchased some treats for herself and also bought items for her friends at home. Soon, we were headed back toward the landing on the Seine to wait for the Batobus.

The sun warmed the interior of the boat, and we were all beginning to feel the heat. We looked forward to cooling off with a dish of ice cream at Berthillion, but soon realized that we would have to backtrack quite a bit to get there. 

Janey cools off on the stern of the boat.

We remained on our little boat until we reached the Trocadero, and as we walked back toward our apartment, we knew we would find a shop which sold ice cream. It turned out to be more difficult than we anticipated, but we eventually located a bar which sold ice cream. When the waiter placed the frosty dishes on the table, Desmond thanked him in with a cheerful "merci, monsieur". He replied in a slightly mocking tone, "Oh, you speak French very well, I see.", at which point Des answered back with a long stream of French, telling the waiter that of course he had better speak French well as he had lived in the country for ten years and taught at the university of Orleans. The look on that waiters face was priceless, and he actually apologized! We chuckled all the way back to the apartment.

So tasty on a hot day in Paris!

And then it was time to pack. Desmond and I struggled with our bags, trying to decide which items to take with us to Florida, and which to stuff into our larger suitcases for Craig to take back to Kansas. Craig went to bed early, but Desmond, Janey, and I decided that our visit to Paris would not be complete without a goodbye to the Eiffel tower. We walked back to the Trocadero, where there was a festive atmosphere. Lively music filled the air and there were small groups of people dancing. Some had spread blankets on the grass and were enjoying a light meal or a bottle of wine. Many other tourists were scrambling around, looking for the best vantage point from which to view the iconic Iron Lady as she lit up the evening sky. The three of us sat on the concrete edge of one of the fountains and watched the sun begin to set behind the Eiffel Tower. The coolness in the air was refreshing, and as the Eiffel Tower lit up and began to sparkle, a cheer arose from the waiting crowd. Janey threw her hands in the air and yelled "I can't believe I'm in Paris!"  

The camera just couldn't capture
 the beautiful spectacle of the glittering lights.

Il Fait Chaud!!!

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal Thursday, June 22 2017

We were faced with yet another scorching hot day. Sleep had been difficult the night before, but we did have hopes of the weather cooling down soon. Desmond had some work to do in the morning hours, so we had little time to talk. He gulped down a protein shake and was out the door. Craig and I walked across the square to the bakery, where we chose our breakfast pastries. I selected a lovely lemon tart, which was eaten in front of the fan. 

At lunchtime, it was just too hot to consider walking anywhere. We whipped up scrambled eggs for lunch, and served them with fresh fruit and rustic bread. Then it was more sitting in front of the fan, catching up on email and reading for a while.

A dark, rustic bread. Delicious!

Desmond, Craig, and Janey decided that another dip in the Loire would be refreshing, but I chose to walk down to Carrefour to do a bit of grocery shopping. I ambled slowly down the street, grateful for the many shade trees overhanging the sidewalk.

Craig and Janey in the Loire.

As evening approached, we walked into town for drinks. We chose a table outside in the shade of a building on Rue de Borgogne. I enjoyed a refreshing Monaco while Janey gulped iced tea and the others sipped their beer. 

For our evening meal, we decided to go to Au Bureau, as we would have the benefit of air conditioning. Craig and Janey both ordered burgers, but Craig's choice was the more unique. Instead of a bun, the meat was sandwiched between two crisp hash brown patties and topped with a fried egg. Desmond chose a hearty salad that had meat and potatoes in it. I ordered the Welsh, which was essentially a bowl of melted cheese with a hunk of bread and some ham in it. It was accompanied by crisp fries and a salad. By the end of the meal, we were all dipping our fries into the cheese. This seemed to displease our waitress, who soon whisked away the remnants of our meals. 

An interesting burger at Au Bureau, Orleans France.

What a salad!

We strolled home slowly, still making use of our little misting fans. The four of us ended the day with a movie as we sat in front of the fan. 

A peaceful scene on the Loire.

The Longest Day; The Hottest Day

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, June 21  2017

Who knew it could become so hot in France? We had expected warm temperatures during our June vacation, but nothing like this. It was like being back home in Kansas! It was barely cool when we awoke, so we didn't have the windows open for long. We closed them and secured the shutters against the blazing heat to come. The temperature would climb to almost 100 degrees later that day.

Azur enjoyed a nap under a cool, damp cloth.

We remained indoors for hours, taking time to do some laundry and only going outside to hang the clothes out to dry. They dried quickly in the heat. At lunchtime, we picked up sandwiches from the little shop on the square. In the afternoon, Craig, Des, and Janey went to play in the Loire. That river is known for its dangerously strong currents, but there are a few areas that have sand bars surrounded by shallow water. The three of them splashed and waded for a couple of hours. 

Des and Janey in the Loire

Janey cools off in the Loire.

Later, Jeff came over. We all played a game of You Don't Know Jack. When Jeff suggested that we go out for drinks at Au Bureau and happened to mention that it was air conditioned, we willingly agreed. The lovely coolness was quite welcome. Mathieu met us there when he got off work. He told us there was no air conditioning or fan at his office. We lingered over our drinks and then decided to walk to the nearby restaurant, Le Don Vittorio, for pizza. It was a very nice place with lovely decor. We were thrilled to discover that it also had air conditioning. Janey and I shared a pizza that was topped with fresh mozzarella, Gorgonzola, mushrooms, and a type of ham called Speck. It was a fun meal.

Des and Jeff at le Don Vittorio, Orleans, France.

Pizza at le don Vittorio in Orleans, France.

June 21 is a day of country-wide music festivals in France. There were concerts in every square and park. Even little Place de la Bascule had its share of bands and street artists. We returned there just in time to hear the steel drum quartet. The artists were busy spray-painting their creations onto huge sheets of black plastic that were hung taut between two posts. One of the local restaurants had placed a grill outside, and the aroma of grilling sausages hung in the air. The bars on the square had a steady stream of customers. It was all very festive. The music lasted until 1:00 AM, so we were able to listen to it long after we went upstairs. It was too hot to sleep, anyway. The temperature had reached 98 degrees.

Music festival on the square.

An artist at the music festival.

More art at the festival.

It felt as if Orleans was on fire
 on the hottest day in France. Ever.