Take a hike!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, May 8 2024

We had all slept well in our cozy gîte. The four of us breakfasted on brioche, which we spread with some incredibly good preserves made by Vincent’s father. It was difficult to decide which was my favorite - the wild cherry, or the mirabelle plum! Then, we set out to drive to Banne d'Ordanche, an ancient volcano in the upper Dordogne valley. The scenery along the gently curving roadway was simply beautiful. As we passed through the tiny village of Murat le Quaire, we were stopped by police, who told us that we would have to wait to proceed because of the Victory Day ceremony which was taking place. We got out of the car and walked a few yards to take in the scene. Several village officials were making speeches, and a band stood by. Police and firefighters stood at attention. We were part of a small crowd of onlookers and were very touched by the ceremony,  which commemorates the end of World War II in Europe.

Afterward, we stopped at a souvenir shop and made a few purchases before continuing our drive. Soon, we arrived at the foot of the volcano, which rises nearly a mile above sea level. A chilly breeze had picked up, but the sun shone brightly in a sky strewn with puffy little clouds. Desmond loaned me one of his hiking sticks and we began our trek up the slope. I was very grateful for the support of the hiking pole, but had to stop every now and then to stretch my back muscles. The path became steeper, and I discovered that leaning forward to ascend was actually easing the pain. We all stopped occasionally to admire the views unfolding around and below us. Farms and small villages were tucked into little wooded valleys, and we could see sheep and cattle grazing on the lush pastures. Every now and then, as we climbed, a lark would fly up into the air. I was entranced by its melodious song. When we reached the summit, we all sat down to admire the breathtaking, 360 degree view. Though it had been a short hike, I was thrilled to have done it, bad back and all! 

Banne d'Ordanche in the Auvergne

Desmond and Craig
hiking on a chilly day in France

Upon returning to the gîte, Desmond and Vincent prepared a wonderful lunch of raclettes. The ham, potatoes, and melted cheese were filling and delicious, accompanied by a hearty baguette and crunchy little pickles. Craig, Desmond, and Vincent went out for a longer hike after that, but I was content to remain behind. 

A meal of raclettes is always a treat!

Another view outside our gite
on a beautiful spring day.

When they returned, we had just enough time to head over to our host’s farm to watch Sandrine making the St. Nectaire cheese for which the region is known. It was a treat to look on as she explained each step of the method. The cheese must be made with the freshest of milk, so the process begins as soon as the cows are milked. Twice a day, every day, this delightful cheese is created. Her St. Nectaire cheese has won high awards, and it’s no wonder. Sandrine's dedication to her craft is above reproach. 

We were offered fresh cheese curds to taste.

Cheese-making equipment. 

We watched through a window as Sandrine
 explained the info on the cheese label.

That evening, back in our cottage, we tucked into a delightful meal of pasta salad, that wonderful cheese, hazelnut sausage, and the inevitable baguette. Vincent and Desmond had picked up some scrumptious pastries for dessert. We cut them into pieces so that we could share and enjoy all four; the raspberry macaron, millefeuille, religieuse, and Paris Brest. It had been such a wonderful day. I sat outside on the terrace with Vincent to watch the sunset, and then we all played a game of dominos before heading off to bed.

 

A peaceful sunset in France

Auvergne Adventure

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 7 2024

We woke at 5:30 and had a quick breakfast of coffee, bread, and spreads. We three were going to set out an adventure with Vincent. Desmond, Craig, and I had packed the night before and after throwing the last few items into our bags, we met Vincent, loaded the car, and set off for the Auvergne. He asked if we minded not taking the toll highway, and we said that would be great, as we loved passing through villages and being able to enjoy all of the beautiful scenery. On the toll roads, there are high embankments which would have prevented us from enjoying the views of countryside. The disadvantage is that there are no rest stops with clean, modern bathrooms, convenience stores, and restaurants. However, every lovely town we drove through had a public toilet which was usually in a town square. For the most part, they were very clean. Many of them have a self-cleaning feature that activates when the patron exits. I did have to use a squat toilet once, but at least it had grab bars! On the road, we passed many lovely sights. Wildflowers bloomed, crops flourished, and cattle grazed on lush pastures. We spied the occasional chateau nearly hidden in the forest. We stopped in La Châtré, because it was market day. It’s always a pleasure to stroll up and down market streets lined with tables, booths, and farm trucks. 

I love the outdoor markets in France!

We selected items for a picnic lunch, choosing fresh baguettes, newly strawberries, cheese, wine, and olives. Craig and I bought sausages flavored with fig, or cheese, or hazelnuts. We saw booths selling local honey, chocolates, toys, fresh fish, clothing, leather goods, jewelry, and other delights. There were vendors offering freshly prepared hot food items, which were selling fast. All of the different aromas were enticing, but we had to get back on the road. We drove through some pretty villages, such as tiny Jarnages, which was ancient and well kept. The origins of Jarnages date back to Gallo-Roman times. Cressat, a little town about the same size as Jarnages, was also lovely. The landscape became more and more beautiful as we gained some altitude.

We had reached the region in which there were many extinct volcanoes, and the views were gorgeous. After parking the car, we gathered our lunch items and followed a wide, rocky pathway toward a valley that had been carved out by glaciers long ago. We stopped at a spring for a refreshing drink and the continued our trek.

We arrived at the valley and found a grassy place in the sun to have our picnic. The scenery was beautiful and there were patches of snow on the peaks, glistening brightly. 

We were glad to have worn our jackets, since there was a sharp, cool breeze swirling through. As we ate, we watched a few climbers high up on the ridges of the valleys. Desmond told me that he and Vincent had hiked around the entire valley, along those high ridges! I can imagine how breathtaking that must have been. From where we were sitting, we could see fast-flowing streams, forested slopes, and some waterfalls leaping down the cliff faces.

After our tasty picnic, the four of us returned to the car. We drove through more of the incredible landscape. Farms and tiny villages were nestled far below in folds of velvety green. Before long, we arrived at our gîte, where we would stay for a couple of nights. It was absolutely charming, with a patio that overlooked a valley dotted with dairy cattle and was bordered by a swift stream.

We enjoyed our stay at this charming gite.

The cottage contained everything we needed, and I loved the big farm table. In the refrigerator was a large wheel of cheese that Vincent and Desmond had reserved for us. The St. Nectaire cheese is a specialty of the region, made from the fresh milk of the cows we could see in the valley. We settled in and relaxed for a while. Vincent made delicious mushroom and cheese omelets for supper, which we enjoyed with a baguette, olives, and strawberries. We played a game of Mexican Train before heading off to bed. What a fantastic day!

If you get the chance to try St. Nectaire cheese,
you won't regret it!

It Has Been Too Long

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal : Thursday, April 21, 2022

At last! After more than three years, we were headed once more to France. My husband and I had longed for this day, wondering when the Covid pandemic would ever allow us to travel again. Even the prospect of an 8 hour layover in Chicago didn’t dampen our enthusiasm.

We arrived in Paris around 11:00 AM. Our flight had been rather turbulent, which had made it impossible for us to sleep. Our son Desmond met us at the airport with a smile and hugs. It was so good to see him on his "home turf" and to know that we would be able to have three wonderful weeks together! We took a taxi into Montmartre, where our Airbnb was located and were pleased to learn that we would be able to check in early. Our host, Victor, was out of town but had arranged for his friend to meet us and show us around the lodging. The apartment was perfect for our needs and since it was actually the home of our host, it was filled with books, records, and many decorative touches that gave us a glimpse of the owner’s personality.

Our Airbnb was in this building in Montmartre.

After putting our luggage away, we went to lunch at Gemüse, a nearby restaurant that had been recommended by Victor. The Berlin-style kebab sandwiches were like nothing we had ever tasted! The hearty sesame bread was stuffed with flavorful chicken and so many different kinds of sautéed vegetables that we could barely pick them up. After that delightful meal, we headed toward Sacré Cœur and were soon confronted with one of the long stairways that seem to be the trademark of that area. I was forced to stop and rest several times, not because I was winded, but because of pain and tightness in my lower back. I had endured numerous procedures for back trouble for a couple of years by that time. I was determined that it would not spoil our vacation, though it might slow me down at times.

THE sandwich

A Montmartre stairway

Intriguing 3-D art beside the stairs

When we reached the area around the basilica, we were greeted with the lively notes of an accordion being played by a smiling busker. Small children were laughing and dancing around him. Everywhere we looked, there were flowers in pots or hanging baskets. Flowering trees displayed their fragrant blossoms as crowds strolled beneath them. We enjoyed the vibrant scene in Place du Tertre, where artists were busily sketching or painting, and displaying their completed wares for sale. We wandered for some time, taking in the beautiful views and the lively atmosphere which is always present there.

Sacre Coeur peeking through the trees

I enjoyed hearing the sounds
of the accordion.

We had planned to have a picnic supper in a park, but instead returned to our apartment. It was a bit of a disappointment, but my back was demanding a long rest. Desmond and Craig found a market where they picked up items for an indoor picnic. Our little supper consisted of a fresh baguette accompanied by a slab of Munster cheese, smoked cod livers, dry sausage, cherry tomatoes, fresh strawberries, and a honey almond cake. It was a fun and satisfying meal. We didn’t stay up late, as Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long travel day.

Christmas in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, Dec. 20 2018

Craig and I had been looking forward to this for quite some time - Christmas in France with our son! It had been sixteen months since we had all been together. We arrived at the train station in Orléans to find Desmond waiting for us on the platform with his friend Will, and in no time at all we were checking in to our little AirBnB. We had chosen it mainly for its close proximity to Desmond’s apartment and it turned out to be so charming and cozy that we immediately felt comfortable. 

Nothing says welcome like a heart-shaped lock.

Craig and I were able to use self-check in with the door codes provided by our host. The apartment was in an old building with such thick walls that we rarely heard any outside noise. The little bedroom had lots of storage and a very comfy king-sized bed. 

Beautiful old beams in the bedroom

A little round window for a cozy vibe

A charming weather vane
overlooking the courtyard

The kitchen had everything we required, in spite of its minuscule size. The living/dining area had plenty of room for our needs. Our host had placed a little golden Christmas tree on the fireplace mantel, which was a welcoming touch. The bathroom, though small, was as sparkling clean as the rest of the apartment. 

Ready for Christmas

Desmond and Will had left us to unpack and rest for a bit. We brewed a small pot of coffee, put our feet up, and sent a few messages home to let our family know we had arrived safely. It had been about twenty hours since Craig and I left our house in Kansas but we didn’t feel tired or jet-lagged. We were ready to meet up with Des and Will. 

Within minutes, the four of us were walking across the bridge toward the Orléans Christmas market. Everywhere we looked, there were beautiful decorations. Store windows were filled with clever holiday displays that beckoned shoppers to step inside. Lampposts and flower urns were bedecked with swags of garland and twinkling lights.  We continued our stroll and could see the huge Ferris wheel up ahead, towering over the festive marketplace.

Old and new at the Christmas market

There were lots of interesting items for sale.

Wooden booths had been constructed and set up on the square, with garlands of greenery and lights strung overhead. Each booth sold products that were handmade or manufactured in France. Many of the little huts offered enticing food items such as sausages, cheese, chocolates, and other local specialties. 

We couldn’t resist for long! The aroma of rich, creamy tartiflette drew us to a booth where we made our selections. We found a place to sit and chat while we savored every delicious bite. A few feet away was another booth from which we purchased salted caramel crepes for dessert. Oh my, but they were tasty! 

The tartiflette was irresistible!

Waffles or crepes for dessert?

It was fun to wander among the cute wooden huts. I had spotted several items which I planned to purchase for Craig and Des later. I also gazed longingly at a few things which I hoped might show up beneath the Christmas tree for me! By the time we turned for home, Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long flight and were ready to settle into our cozy apartment. 

An Easy Day

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, June 5 2017

I slept well and woke at 7 AM. Janey was still slumbering. I knew she had been unable to sleep on the plane, so I left her snuggled beneath the blankets and went into the other room to make coffee. I opened the windows to a beautiful, sunny morning and sipped my coffee as I gazed out at the courtyard. There were a surprising number of birds around, thanks to the many secluded courtyards, parks, and other green spaces. They were singing cheerfully and I enjoyed their sweet twitters and chirps as I relaxed. Azur was soon sitting on the window ledge, alert to all the activity outside.

Azur greets the morning.

Desmond soon awoke, and before long we were headed over to the bakery on the square. Within minutes, we were munching on tasty lemon tarts. We lounged around, discussing Craig's ordeal and his urgent quest for an expedited passport renewal. It was a helpless feeling, knowing there was nothing we could do to speed up the process. We missed him terribly.

I finally woke Janey at 10:00. We had decided on an easy day and at 11:30 we took the tram to Parc Floral. Janey had seen many photos of the beautiful botanical garden and she was happy to view it first-hand. We wandered aimlessly, serenaded by birdsong while admiring the lovely floral displays. We also stopped in to see the butterfly house and then continued our stroll through the gardens. After a while, Janey began to have an allergic reaction to something there. Her eyes were beginning to itch and swell, so we cut our visit short.

A pretty resident of the butterfly house.

We stopped at Auchan to purchase food for the evening meal.My granddaughter enjoyed wandering around the huge grocery store and she picked out some snack cakes and cereal for herself. That evening, Desmond made an incredible meal of orange duck, pureed sweet potatoes, and sauteed cherry tomatoes. The tasty orange sauce was a perfect topping for the creamy sweet potatoes. Our day ended with a nostalgic movie. 

A wonderful meal!

TRAVEL TIP: Always be aware of the expiration date on your passport. Go check it. Now. 

So What If It's Raining!

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Another day of teaching for Desmond. We were able to have breakfast together, which consisted of more of his yummy chocolate cupcakes, and then he headed off to the university while I went shopping. I didn't have a particular destination in mind, so I just meandered through town, popping into any shop that looked inviting. I eventually walked all the way to Place D'Arc, where my final stop was CarreFour. I purchased several items, though it took much longer than it should have. The store had been rearranged a bit since my last visit and I had some difficulty finding the things I needed. 

In the produce department, I bagged some fresh vegetables and was attempting to use the little self-service weigh-and-tag machine. There were no instructions; it's really a simple device and I had used one the year before, but I couldn't seem to get it to work. After waiting for some time for an employee, I was able to flag someone down. I could see she was a bit annoyed at being interrupted by a foreigner who spoke toddler-level French, but she patiently began the process of weighing and tagging my veggies. I felt slightly gratified when the machine refused to work for her. I even understood when she said "C'est cassé" (It's broken). We found another machine which not only worked perfectly but also had a set of instructions that even I could have read! 

Those round zucchini! So cute!
 

It was around that time, just as I was paying for my purchases, that I received a text from Arno. He wanted to know if I would like to meet him for a late lunch and a bit more shopping. We met at his home, where I left my purchases, and we made our way over to a bar near the Loire. We chose a variety of tapas to share and sat for quite a while munching our way through chips and guacamole, calamari, fries, ham, and chorizo. We spent a lot of time laughing over silly stories and jokes, completely oblivious to the darkening skies. By the time we left the bar, a heavy rain was falling! We stood beneath an awning, waiting for the rain to let up. When it eased a bit, we opened our umbrellas and walked a short couple of blocks to one of Arno's favorite shops. It was a place that sold polished stones, essential oils, and a few other items. I enjoyed our time there, and Arno surprised me with a lovely polished jasper. 

Later, Desmond met us at Arno's. We all relaxed over apero, and then went out for dinner. We ate at the Korean restaurant I have mentioned in a previous post. I ordered the bibimbap, and it was as delicious as I remembered. The restaurant was crowded. No one was dining outside, as the rain was still falling lightly. Just before we were served our dessert of chocolate eggrolls, which were incredible, a woman sat down near us who was wearing so much perfume that our eyes watered and we could barely breathe! Des and Arno had such a violent reaction that they had to go outside. As we were leaving, we noticed one of the servers frantically opening windows!

A delightful Korean dish - bibimbap.

Arno walked through the rain with us until we were almost home. Then we parted company and were soon settled into a warm, dry house. The next day would be Craig's travel day! 

A Busy Saturday

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 14 2016

What a busy day! After our morning coffee, Desmond's friend Matt picked us up for an excursion to the vegetable farm on the outskirts of Orleans. We stopped first at Pat-a-Pain for breakfast. They had a wonderful selection of pastries, cakes, and other delights. I chose a delicious Tropezienne and a cup of hot chocolate. We then drove over to the farm to see what was available for picking. Since it was still a bit early in the growing season, we could harvest only parsley, lettuce, and carrots. There were rows and rows of strawberry plants in bloom, though they would not be ready for a while. There was a chill breeze blowing and we were very glad to have brought along some warm jackets. We dug carrots and picked parsley and also chose a bottle of locally made apple juice from the little farm store. 

Our next errand was grocery shopping. We went to Le Clerc, which was very busy with other Saturday shoppers. We weren't able to find everything we needed, so we drove a short distance to Auchan. They were also crowded, but we managed to locate what we had come for. We also checked out the huge new aisle full of bulk items and were very pleased at the variety. I even found some wonderful, soft, pastel marshmallows that are available in flavors like cassis and violet. 

We were soon ready for lunch at Mont Fuji. I'm not a fan of sushi, but the restaurant offers a wide selection of other dishes that are wonderful. I am especially fond of the fish that is sautéed without breading; it's mild and has a delicate flavor.  The cheese maki is something I also like, as well as the fried noodles. 

Upon returning home, we had a nice visit with Craig. We told him that we'll have to take him to Mont Fuji soon! And then, we straightened the house and began to make preparations for dinner that evening. We had invited Arno over for a barbecue, but the weather was still cold and blustery, so we decided to eat indoors. Our friend arrived with the ingredients for margaritas and soon we were all relaxing with a tasty drink as we nibbled on cheese, chips, and some yummy bacon-wrapped prunes that Desmond had quickly made. I helped Des prepare the caprese salads, which were lovely with green, red, orange, and yellow heirloom tomatoes layered with buffalo mozzarella and drizzled with basil-infused olive oil. Our main course was tasty grilled Toulouse sausages and butter-thyme potatoes. By the time we finished all of that, there was no room for dessert! But we certainly had a fun evening talking and laughing and telling funny family stories, which led to looking at old photos. It was a good night.

Bring on the Barbecue (and a dash of Culture)

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: April 19, 2015

Once again, I awoke to another to another glorious spring day in France! Happiness and contentment washed over me as I made my bed and opened the shutters to the morning sunshine. After a cup of coffee to further brighten my day, Desmond and I walked over to the market to purchase items for a lunchtime barbecue. We also picked up some pastries for breakfast. I chose a Paris Brest, and even though it came from the supermarket and not a patisserie, it was still pretty good. I love that toasted hazelnut flavor.

Paris Brest, a delightful toasted hazelnut pastry.

Chris and Mathilde were expected for lunch, so we spent a bit of time straightening the house. Desmond and I assembled the barbecue grill and carried it and a bag of charcoal down the stairs to the courtyard below. That charcoal was not in the form of tightly compressed bricks like we use at home. It was in the natural wood shapes, which meant that some of the smaller pieces kept dropping through the grate. Des made a tray of aluminum foil, into which he poked holes for ventilation. We piled the charcoal back on and managed to ignite it with no trouble. When our guests arrived, we put the marinated pork steaks onto the grill and as they began to sizzle we sat down to have a beer and some chips, but we soon discovered that the coals were out. I had neglected to open the bottom draft! Desmond and I took the steaks upstairs to cook. At least they had been over the charcoal long enough to acquire that smoky flavor we liked. Meanwhile, Chris had managed to get the coals going again and had put the sausages on to cook. When everything was ready, we sat down to a feast of tender pork steaks, Toulouse sausages, roasted potatoes, and broccoli raisin salad. Everything was quite tasty and we enjoyed visiting around the table as we passed the dishes around for seconds. We finished the meal off with refreshing ginger floats. 

After Mathilde and Chris had departed, we spent a pleasant hour talking to Craig. Then it was time to leave for an afternoon concert, which featured music played on a beautiful antique harpsichord. Desmond had been tutoring English to the talented musician of that instrument, Beatrice, who teaches at Julliard. She was accompanied by her husband on the violin, and there were two other musicians as well. One woman played a cello and the other sang. They did many numbers together, and though I did not recognize most of the compositions, I enjoyed the concert immensely. 

Leaving the music hall, we went out to dinner at a sushi restaurant. I am not a big fan of sushi, but there were many other delectable items on the menu. I was quite happy with the dumplings, sweet fried noodles, and cheese maki. We watched a movie after we returned home. All in all, it had been a fun and relaxing day.



Travel Tip: If you take prescription medication, it is a good idea to pack a paper copy of your prescription. It will be much easier to get the prescription filled should you need to. Make sure you also have your doctor's name and phone number.

Time for Me to Fly

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: April 13, 2015

My long-awaited travel day had finally arrived! After a short flight and a long layover on Sunday from Wichita to Chicago, I boarded the Boeing 767 for Paris. Imagine my delight when I discovered that I had no seat-mates! It was a first for me to be able to spread out and relax on an overnight flight. I was even able to sleep for a couple of hours, curled on the seats in warm socks and cuddling my own comfy travel pillow. As the plane approached Paris, the clouds thinned and I had a lovely glimpse the beautiful countryside below.

Approaching Paris. 

The terminal was surprisingly uncrowded that morning. I was able to retrieve my luggage quickly and easily. Upon entering the arrivals area, I spotted Desmond, who was grinning from ear to ear, as I was. It was so good to see him again! After hugs, kisses, and a few happy tears, we were soon on our way to Orléans. The weather was gorgeous, sunny and cool, as we sped south.

I loved the new apartment! It's on an upper floor, which allows for cool breezes and better security. It is truly a comfortable home and even though Desmond had been living there only a short time, it was already nicely furnished and filled with good vibes. I loved the layout, with the two bedrooms being separated by a large entryway, kitchen, bath, and the living area. There were colorful pots of herbs on the wide windowsills, and even some cherry tomato plants! 

Colorful pots of herbs on the windowsill.

The guest room, which is also Desmond's office, was quite roomy and had a view of a small tree-lined square and several half-timbered buildings. A bar/cafe, a bakery, and other shops are just steps away. The river is very close, though it can't actually be seen from the windows. We stowed my luggage in the room and went out in search of a bite to eat. As we approached the cafe, we noticed a couple of friends, Fanny and Ficus, having lunch there! We pulled over another table and enjoyed our lunch as we visited with them. 

The charming views from my window.

The food at the cafe was very good. Des ordered the plat du jour, which was fragrant, herb-roasted chicken and potatoes accompanied by a zucchini gratin and ratatouille. I opted for the croque monsieur, which was served with fries and a salad. Des had to leave for work soon after our meal, but I walked across the Loire to a market for fresh vegetables and continued on to the artisan bakery for some rustic chestnut-apple-walnut bread. It was wonderful to be strolling along those familiar cobblestone streets once again. I felt very much at home. I finished my shopping with a visit to the French Coffee shop, where I relaxed over a tasty coffee creation before meandering back toward home. 

Rue de Borgogne, one of my favorite streets in Orléans.

After Desmond returned, we worked happily in the kitchen, where we roasted veggies and toasted the fresh bread. The bread was then spread with herbed goat cheese, layered with vegetables, and topped with thinly sliced ham. It was a simple and delicious meal that we all relished. I had brought Azur some kitty treats from America and began a nightly ritual with him of "foreign" food and pats from his cat-loving guest. Later, Des had papers to grade and I was worn out from traveling, so I went to bed early. I don't think I ever stopped smiling, even in my sleep.

My blue-eyed buddy, Azur, saying good night.

Where There's Smoke...

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 21, 2014

How wonderful it was to awaken in our cozy room at the Jackotel in Orléans, France. Craig and I have always enjoyed traveling together. We take pleasure in the little things, such as sipping our morning coffee while enjoying whatever view is available outside our windows. The gravel courtyard of the hotel and the fragrant lilac bushes nearby provided a lovely foreground as the ancient church opposite the street cast shadows across the square.

The ancient church of St. Aignan.

Desmond and his friend Mathieu soon arrived, and the four of us went in search of breakfast. We had plans to meet Mathieu's parents, Muriel and Thierry, for lunch later at a restaurant in a village halfway between Orléans and Bitry. Thierry had made reservations at a picturesque place that he knew we would enjoy. It was our only chance to see our friends, since we would be leaving for Annecy the next day. 

The lovely Burgundian countryside.

The drive that morning began uneventfully. I haven't traveled much in Burgundy, but what I have seen is pleasant countryside with gently rolling hills, farms, vineyards, sunflowers, and fields of crops which reminded me of Kansas. As we rolled along, following the river, we noticed a large encampment of caravans (motorhomes) and tents in a wooded area near the Loire. Smoke from numerous campfires lazily drifted toward the sky. Further along, we noticed more smoke, but it was coming from beneath the hood of Mathieu's car! 

Mathieu pulled over onto the shoulder of the busy highway, and soon had the hood open. He and Craig extinguished the fire as Des and I cast a wary eye on the darkening skies above us. We were on a rather deserted stretch of a very busy highway. There was a tidy farm just across the road, from which we were being eyed warily by the occupants. Many vehicles passed us by, and yet not one paused to offer help or to inquire about our situation. This struck me as somewhat odd, even for France. Back home in the Midwest, we would have received numerous offers of assistance. A truckload of soldiers eventually stopped long enough to wish us luck, and then sped away.

Mathieu had been on his phone, contacting a tow service, and we settled down to wait. The farm family across the road had come toward us as we huddled uncomfortably on the damp verge but they looked straight past our little group, and without a word went into a field to dig potatoes. It was a relief to see the tow truck after what seemed like a lengthy wait. The driver was a chatty sort. He and Mathieu had a long conversation in which the driver informed him that there were two large encampments of gypsies in the area. Spring is the time of year for their mass weddings and baptisms, he explained. It's a gigantic family reunion. He said that the locals distrusted the Roma people, and we wondered if that was why no one had even glanced at us while we stood stranded by the road.  

After a long drive in the tow truck, AWAY from where we had come, we arrived at a garage to find a taxi waiting to return us to Orléans. I watched in horror as the meter on the taxi clicked away the kilometers. By the time we reached Orléans, it was nearly 200 euros! Mathieu told me not to worry - the cost of the cab was covered by his auto insurance. Whew!