It Has Been Too Long

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal : Thursday, April 21, 2022

At last! After more than three years, we were headed once more to France. My husband and I had longed for this day, wondering when the Covid pandemic would ever allow us to travel again. Even the prospect of an 8 hour layover in Chicago didn’t dampen our enthusiasm.

We arrived in Paris around 11:00 AM. Our flight had been rather turbulent, which had made it impossible for us to sleep. Our son Desmond met us at the airport with a smile and hugs. It was so good to see him on his "home turf" and to know that we would be able to have three wonderful weeks together! We took a taxi into Montmartre, where our Airbnb was located and were pleased to learn that we would be able to check in early. Our host, Victor, was out of town but had arranged for his friend to meet us and show us around the lodging. The apartment was perfect for our needs and since it was actually the home of our host, it was filled with books, records, and many decorative touches that gave us a glimpse of the owner’s personality.

Our Airbnb was in this building in Montmartre.

After putting our luggage away, we went to lunch at Gemüse, a nearby restaurant that had been recommended by Victor. The Berlin-style kebab sandwiches were like nothing we had ever tasted! The hearty sesame bread was stuffed with flavorful chicken and so many different kinds of sautéed vegetables that we could barely pick them up. After that delightful meal, we headed toward Sacré Cœur and were soon confronted with one of the long stairways that seem to be the trademark of that area. I was forced to stop and rest several times, not because I was winded, but because of pain and tightness in my lower back. I had endured numerous procedures for back trouble for a couple of years by that time. I was determined that it would not spoil our vacation, though it might slow me down at times.

THE sandwich

A Montmartre stairway

Intriguing 3-D art beside the stairs

When we reached the area around the basilica, we were greeted with the lively notes of an accordion being played by a smiling busker. Small children were laughing and dancing around him. Everywhere we looked, there were flowers in pots or hanging baskets. Flowering trees displayed their fragrant blossoms as crowds strolled beneath them. We enjoyed the vibrant scene in Place du Tertre, where artists were busily sketching or painting, and displaying their completed wares for sale. We wandered for some time, taking in the beautiful views and the lively atmosphere which is always present there.

Sacre Coeur peeking through the trees

I enjoyed hearing the sounds
of the accordion.

We had planned to have a picnic supper in a park, but instead returned to our apartment. It was a bit of a disappointment, but my back was demanding a long rest. Desmond and Craig found a market where they picked up items for an indoor picnic. Our little supper consisted of a fresh baguette accompanied by a slab of Munster cheese, smoked cod livers, dry sausage, cherry tomatoes, fresh strawberries, and a honey almond cake. It was a fun and satisfying meal. We didn’t stay up late, as Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long travel day.

A Return to Versailles.

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday March 13, 2011

It was a fun and busy day, though tinged with a bit of sadness knowing that it was our last full day in France. We began with a walk to a patisserie near the Moulin Rouge, where we all picked out some delightful treats for breakfast. We then walked across the street to a Starbucks (a rare treat for Desmond) and we sat outside enjoying our petit dejeuner and our view of the street. It was already busy with tourists and locals scurrying about. 

Not a bad view at breakfast.

A view of Boulevard de Clichy from Starbucks.

We boarded the Metro at a stop nearby, and were soon on our way to Versailles. Jennifer got a kick out her first-ever subway ride. The double-decker train we switched to at the end of the Metro line gave us some interesting views during the 45 - minute ride to Versailles. We were treated to an impromptu accordion serenade on the way, and dropped a few coins into the musician's cup in thanks. 

                                                                                                                                                      

                                            

Once off the train, we simply followed the crowd to Versailles, but were dismayed at the enormously long line for admission. We turned back toward town, where we found a wonderful cafe in which we had a delicious lunch. Des ordered the lamb chops, Jennifer and I each had the braised chicken, while Craig enjoyed his veal which was smothered in a mushroom-cream sauce. Jennifer experienced another first - a Kir Royale, which she found to be delightful. 

Returning to the Chateau, we found the lines to be much shorter, and soon we were wandering around the opulent palace. The stunning Hall of Mirrors, the Music Hall, and the other amazing rooms we visited were a feast for the eyes.  It was very crowded, and at times we feared becoming separated in the throng. It was a relief when we finally went outside onto the grounds. By that time, we all had tired feet, so we willingly shelled out the extra cash for a tram ride around the magnificently landscaped parc and down toward Marie Antoinette's little palace. We were too tired even to peek inside. We left Versailles soon after and made it back to the center of Paris by dinnertime. We had planned to walk around a bit to scout out a good restaurant, but settled instead on the nearby Flunch. It was fun and interesting, especially for Jennifer, who had never before eaten there. 

It was hard to believe our visit had come to an end! Jennifer would stay on for a while, and accompany her brother to Orléans, where she would enjoy her time spent in getting to know the town. I have no idea when my next visit will occur, but I am already thinking of the future.

There is so much to see beyond the golden gates of Versailles.

Tired tourist feet.

TRAVEL TIP: When visiting a museum or other large space, first designate an area where you can all meet if anyone becomes separated from the group.

A Visitor Arrives!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, March 12, 2011

What a busy day this was! We awoke at 5:00 AM so that we could make it to CDG in plenty of time to meet Jennifer's plane. This would be her first trip to France, and she was very happy to be able to see her brother and enjoy a memorable vacation. It was so good to see Jennifer's smiling face when she arrived. She looked so fresh and pretty and awake! It was hard to believe that she had been traveling for almost 20 hours. 

We headed back to the hotel right away, so Jennifer could drop off her cases. We then began to walk in the direction of the Seine, though first stopping to introduce Jennifer to real French pastries. She happily enjoyed the pain au chocolat while I nibbled on three flavors of mini-macarons. Craig chose an eclair, but Des wasn't really hungry. Leaving the patisserie, we soon found the river, and Jennifer was thrilled at her first sight of the Seine and the Eiffel Tower! We boarded a Batobus for a tour on the Seine, and I enjoyed watching the expression on Jennifer's face as she gazed, enthralled, at the fabulous architecture.

Such a lovely view. 

We hopped off the boat at the Eiffel Tower, where we purchased crepes at a little stand. They were actually pretty good, and of course Jennifer got a kick out of it. Just sitting on a bench as we ate, looking at our surroundings, was a thrill. 

Then, it was back on the boat to head toward our next stop - Notre Dame.  It was magnificent - especially those glorious stained glass windows.

 

Notre dame as seen from the boat.

Jennifer and Craig in front of Notre Dame.

Our next stop was the Louvre. The line at the entrance was horribly long. We couldn't even get down to the basement gift shop, so we turned away, disappointed. All of us were beginning to feel a bit tired, anyway so we hailed a taxi to return to the hotel for a brief rest.  

After our batteries were recharged, we set out to explore, visiting a few shops before deciding on a cafe for dinner. We had a very pleasant meal at the Cafe de Luna where we were seated next to a window overlooking the busy street. Our meals were tasty, and we all enjoyed the mousse au chocolat and the creme brulee for dessert. The following day would be our last full day in France, and Craig and I were feeling a bit sad.

Mousse au chocolat and creme brulee - who could resist?

Paris in Summer

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, July 20, 2009

Arriving in Montmartre, the four of us climbed the infamous stairs there and after a stop or two so that I could catch my breath, we made our way to Sacré-Cœur. The day was warm but there was a welcome breeze to cool us as we explored the area around the Basilica. We paused in front of a statue and I asked Mathieu whom it was commemorating. He told me that this man had been killed because his music was unpopular. Des told me that his friend might have been making that story up, so I may never know! The view from the Butte Montmartre is spectacular, and I took a picture of the distant Eiffel Tower from the same vantage point I had used in February. Montmartre, loosely translated, means "mountain of the martyr" and was named after St. Denis, who was decapitated on that site in 250 A.D. 

This view of the Eiffel Tower from Montmartre looks
 a bit different from the photo I took in February.

We left the hill in the opposite direction from which we had ascended and found ourselves in the area where the movie "Amélie" had been filmed. The hillside was teeming with tourists and the carousel was whirling merrily, loaded with children and their parents. We stopped at a cafe for a cold drink, and then did a bit of souvenir shopping. Desmond bought a pair of socks for me which had a map of the Paris Metro imprinted on them! At the toes, you could find the station across from our hotel. I collect socks, so that was the perfect little souvenir.

A close-up of Sacre Coeur.

Tour boats on the Seine

Always a pretty sight

Paris in summer... is HOT! We discovered that our hotel does not truly have air conditioning. The hallways are much cooler than the rooms, so we propped the door open a few inches and with the window open on the opposite wall we were able to get a nice little breeze going. It was too bad we couldn't leave it that way for night! Speaking of the hotel - I finally ran across one of those miniscule Paris bathrooms that I had heard so much about. The one in our room was so small that when I tried to undress, my elbows would bang against the walls. The shower stall seemed to be the roomiest place in the bathroom! There was a large hair dryer unit attached to the wall across from the toilet, and one of the magnets was missing, so if you even breathed on it the drying wand would fall off and automatically begin to blow. It was pretty hilarious, and happened within a few seconds every time one of us went into the bathroom.

Travel Tip: Avoid Paris in summer. The temperatures are brutal!