Castles Large and Small

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, April 29, 2013

Craig and I got up earlier than usual so that we could meet Desmond at the train station for a day trip to Blois. Though the morning was overcast and chilly, the trip through the French countryside was still beautiful. By the time we reached Blois, the weather had become drizzly but since we had remembered to bring umbrellas, we weren't really inconvenienced. Our first stop in the lovely town was a patisserie, of course. We carried our bag of goodies over to a nearby cafe, where we asked if we could consume them there, along with the coffee we would purchase. Soon, we were seated at a table in the cozy back room where we enjoyed our mid-morning snack. I tried a new pastry - a Paris Brest - and was not disappointed. It is made of choux pastry, split and filled with a rich toasted hazelnut cream and topped with powdered sugar and toasted almonds. I have a new favorite! The shape of the Paris Brest is said to resemble the wheel of a bike. The pastry was created in 1891 to commemorate a famous bicycle race between Paris and Brest.

Paris Brest and café crème. Worth the trip.

We toured Chateau Royal de Blois after finishing our snack. It was fairly small, as castles go. It has been home to 10 kings and 15 queens. The furnishings were quite lovely, and we enjoyed reading about the history of the chateau. 

Here's your ride up to the castle. 

A royal bedchamber in Blois Chateau.

We then made our way down to the bus stop for the shuttle to the Chateau de Chambord. The long drive along the Loire was very picturesque, even though the day was still overcast and rainy. As the bus pulled up to the entrance, we noticed a group of people on horseback and felt a bit sorry for them riding out in the rain. There are wonderful riding trails on the 13,000 acres surrounding the castle, through beautiful old forests.

Just inside the entrance to the castle grounds there were many outbuildings and tents set up where vendors were selling souvenirs, wine, cheese, and other items. There were also several restaurants there, and we thought it would be a good idea to have a bite before touring the huge castle. We dined leisurely on gallettes, quiche Lorraine, and herb-roasted chicken before finally making our way into the magnificent chateau. Chambord is huge and very ornate. It is said there are 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and 84 staircases. There are very few furnishings inside. The massive structure is extremely expensive to restore and maintain; it is an ongoing work. What we saw was really quite amazing.

The double-helix staircase, which is rumored to have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci, is an architectural wonder! Also wondrous is the roofline of the huge castle. It was commissioned by Francois I to resemble the skyline of Constantinople. It is certainly very unique and interesting. The chateau was originally a hunting lodge, and there is a trophy gallery where many sets of antlers hang on the cold, stone walls. Outside, you will find a moat and acres of beautifully manicured and landscaped lawns surrounded by thick forest. Boats and bicycles are available for rent, though on this day it was too cold to even consider such a thing.

Chambord Castle. And to think it was once a hunting lodge!

A section of the double-helix staircase at Chambord.

Several hours later, we were chilled through. We sighed with relief after boarding the warm bus for the ride back to Blois. We had intended to wander around the town for a while, but the damp chill discouraged us. We headed toward the train station, stopping first at a patisserie where we warmed up over coffee and pastries, laughing as Craig practiced his French. He is of German heritage, and when he speaks French, it comes out with a German accent!

Upon returning to Orléans, we rested for a bit and then we all went to a bar where we met Fanny and her five-year-old daughter, Jade. Craig and I were delighted to meet these friends of Desmond whom we had heard so much about. We had brought along some bottles of bubble solution for Jade, and she was soon happily blowing bubbles in the bar. We invited Fanny and Jade to join us for dinner, but the invitation was politely declined, as they were leaving for a vacation in the Alscace, where Fanny has family.

Des had wanted to introduce me and his dad to his favorite pizza restaurant, but they were closed for some reason, so we walked a bit further to an old favorite, Volpone. We had our meal outside, where the tables were surrounded by heavy sheets of plastic. Space heaters were scattered about the enclosure, emitting a comforting warmth. The pizza was as wonderful as I remembered, especially with the pepper-infused oil to drizzle on top.

A Return to Versailles.

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday March 13, 2011

It was a fun and busy day, though tinged with a bit of sadness knowing that it was our last full day in France. We began with a walk to a patisserie near the Moulin Rouge, where we all picked out some delightful treats for breakfast. We then walked across the street to a Starbucks (a rare treat for Desmond) and we sat outside enjoying our petit dejeuner and our view of the street. It was already busy with tourists and locals scurrying about. 

Not a bad view at breakfast.

A view of Boulevard de Clichy from Starbucks.

We boarded the Metro at a stop nearby, and were soon on our way to Versailles. Jennifer got a kick out her first-ever subway ride. The double-decker train we switched to at the end of the Metro line gave us some interesting views during the 45 - minute ride to Versailles. We were treated to an impromptu accordion serenade on the way, and dropped a few coins into the musician's cup in thanks. 

                                                                                                                                                      

                                            

Once off the train, we simply followed the crowd to Versailles, but were dismayed at the enormously long line for admission. We turned back toward town, where we found a wonderful cafe in which we had a delicious lunch. Des ordered the lamb chops, Jennifer and I each had the braised chicken, while Craig enjoyed his veal which was smothered in a mushroom-cream sauce. Jennifer experienced another first - a Kir Royale, which she found to be delightful. 

Returning to the Chateau, we found the lines to be much shorter, and soon we were wandering around the opulent palace. The stunning Hall of Mirrors, the Music Hall, and the other amazing rooms we visited were a feast for the eyes.  It was very crowded, and at times we feared becoming separated in the throng. It was a relief when we finally went outside onto the grounds. By that time, we all had tired feet, so we willingly shelled out the extra cash for a tram ride around the magnificently landscaped parc and down toward Marie Antoinette's little palace. We were too tired even to peek inside. We left Versailles soon after and made it back to the center of Paris by dinnertime. We had planned to walk around a bit to scout out a good restaurant, but settled instead on the nearby Flunch. It was fun and interesting, especially for Jennifer, who had never before eaten there. 

It was hard to believe our visit had come to an end! Jennifer would stay on for a while, and accompany her brother to Orléans, where she would enjoy her time spent in getting to know the town. I have no idea when my next visit will occur, but I am already thinking of the future.

There is so much to see beyond the golden gates of Versailles.

Tired tourist feet.

TRAVEL TIP: When visiting a museum or other large space, first designate an area where you can all meet if anyone becomes separated from the group.

Versailles

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 

After our usual breakfast of fresh pastries (mmm - a flaky twist of custard-filled goodness), we set out for Versailles. Getting there involved another ride on the Metro and then a transfer to a train. When we arrived in the beautiful town of Versailles it was easy to locate the palace. We simply followed the crowds. Even on that sizzling July day, there were hundreds of tourists. We rounded a corner and got our first glimpse of the magnificent structure. I had been looking forward to the coolness of the royal chateau, with its thick, stone walls. Imagine my disappointment when I discovered that it was almost as warm inside the palace as it was outside! 

Built in the 1600's, Le Chateau de Versailles is considered to be one of the most beautiful achievements of 18th century French art. It defies description and is really one of those places that you must experience for yourself. 

Talk about your golden gates!

Traversing the courtyard, I could visualize the horse-drawn carriages of old, clattering over the cobblestones. I wondered how on earth the ladies of the court were able to tolerate walking across those stones in their dainty slippers. We paid the extra entry fee for a 1 1/2 hour guided tour which took us into the King's private apartments and some other areas we would not have seen with a general admission. The opulence will take your breath away!

The royal salon, where breakfast was served.

A very grand organ in the Music Hall.

The extensive gardens on the palace grounds are simply stunning, though we only scratched the surface! We even enjoyed touring the orangerie, with rows of citrus trees growing in huge tubs. There are many elaborate fountains, but to our great disappointment, they were "off" until 4 PM. We walked down to the edge of the Grand Canal, where it is possible to rent a boat. That might have been a way to cool off a bit!

                                       

A glimpse of the gardens at Versailles

We enjoyed our visit to Versailles very much, though I wouldn't recommend that you go during hot weather. I would love to visit again, as there is much more to see than can be viewed in one day.