Simple Things

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, April 25 2022

We awoke to a beautiful morning and the sweet sounds of birds chirping in the courtyard below. A tarte citron, coffee, and milk made a yummy breakfast. We didn’t have big plans for the day, as Desmond would have to go to work that afternoon. A long walk beside the Loire that morning was just perfect and the weather couldn’t have been better. 

A pretty blooming tree

Swans float serenely on the Loire.

Craig and Desmond on the river path

On the way home, we cut through the Jardin des Plantes and enjoyed seeing the gorgeous blooms and unique plants. Des veered off to a market to pick up items for lunch, while Craig and I ambled through the gardens. 

For lunch, Desmond made a delicious dish of goat cheese ravioli topped with grilled eggplant. He left for work while Craig took a nap. I threw a load of clothes into the washer and after Craig awoke we had afternoon coffee and a game of Scrabble before taking our clothes to a nearby laundromat to dry. The laundromat was directly across from the Loire, so we had a nice view while we waited for our clothes to dry. 

Desmond had made pizza dough before he left the house, and for dinner that evening we had a treat. Pizzaclettes! This was a little invention of his, using a raclette oven to bake the dough. We then cut the dough into small wedges and topped them with fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, red bell pepper, and grilled eggplant. The filled raclette trays were placed under the heat until the cheese bubbled. It was such a fun and tasty meal. For dessert, we enjoyed oranges and some bread topped with Desmond’s homemade chocolate spread.

Pizzaclettes!

Baking pizza in the raclettes oven

Back to Orleans

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, April 24 2022

We were up early to clean our apartment prior to catching a train to Orléans. It didn’t take long, and soon we were in an Uber on the way to Gare d'Austerlitz. The train station was nearly unrecognizable with all the construction going on inside. We had to weave our way through a maze of partitions and closed-off areas just to find the waiting room. We purchased coffee and something to munch on. We were glad to leave the noisy station and board a quiet, comfortable train. As we rolled through Paris, I listened to the happy chatter of some children who were seated nearby. It looked as if they were on an outing with grandma. After about an hour, we arrived in Orleans and made our way to Desmond’s home by tram. It was wonderful to be back and we greeted Azur with soft pats and a scratch under the chin. He such a sweet and cuddly cat.

 

Flags in support of Ukraine line the street
leading to the cathedral in Orleans

A familiar sight in Orleans.
It was good to be back!

I unpacked as Desmond prepared lunch using ingredients he had on hand. He created noodle bowls made with a delicious sauce and some roasted sweet potato along with a fried egg. It was a tasty lunch. That afternoon, we went for a lovely walk along the Loire. We followed a path along the river, and it was quite peaceful down there below street level. 

Desmond in the woods along the Loire

A peaceful scene along the Loire

This was our view from
the little riverfront bar in Orleans.

After a while we climbed stairs up to a sidewalk and continued on to a little outdoor bar. A cold beer and a view of the river made for a pleasant break. For dinner that evening, Desmond served brandade de morue. It was a dish of cod and potatoes mashed together with olive oil and then baked. It was very good. He served it with some creamed spinach, and we had clementines for dessert. We watched some cute videos on TV and then Craig went to bed. Desmond and I stayed up a while longer, chatting while he played a video game. He made a little snack for us of his homemade cashew butter which he spread onto a piece of dark chocolate.  A small glass of fresh raw milk went well with that tasty treat!

A sleepy Azur

Walking in Sunshine

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, April 20 2014.

Craig and I awoke to a crystal clear morning and were soon ready to meet Desmond for breakfast. We picked up some assorted pastries at Au Petit Duc and carried them to Place D'Arc, where we found a table outside at a cafe. Craig seemed more alert and refreshed than he should have been, considering his long travel day on Friday/Saturday, and the 7-hour time difference. He was very happy to be on vacation at last, enjoying his first French pastries in nearly a year.

A lovely view at breakfast.

Place D'arc, Orléans, France.

On the right? The best lemon tart ever!

After our leisurely breakfast, we strolled over to the 15th century Renaissance Hôtel Groslot to show Craig the beautiful gardens there and to tour the inside of the building. As we approached, we noticed a wedding party in the courtyard, with a photographer busily setting up shots of the happy couple. We didn't want to interrupt, so we went around to the side of the building and entered the gardens. It was lovely to stroll through again and admire the gorgeous flowers in bloom. Craig was impressed with the gigantic old ginkgo tree which spread leafy branches over much of the garden. Once inside, we wandered around in awe, gazing at the tapestries and lovely antiques which adorn the rooms. Desmond narrated our tour with information he had gleaned from previous visits.

A view of the Hôtel Groslot from the garden.

Check out those chair legs!

Interior of Hôtel Groslot, Orléans, France.

Leaving the Hôtel Groslot, we angled over toward the Cathédrale Sainte-Croix. On such a beautiful, sunny day, the facade was practically glowing. On the inside, the cathedral was decked out in banners and coats-of-arms in honor of the upcoming Fêtes de Jeanne d'Arc. Though we had visited before, it's always worth a return. We were treated to a new sight - the wooden model of the cathedral as it was presented to the king before construction began in the late 13th century. 

Here is the wooden model of the cathedral.

A side view of the Cathédrale Sainte-Croix de Orléans.

For lunch, we visited a little kebab restaurant called "Real Food". We found a small table outside where we enjoyed our meal. The sandwiches were especially good because instead of using the traditional pita to hold the roasted meat, it was served in a hot, fluffy cheese nan.  

The rest of the afternoon was spent in doing laundry, shopping, and preparing for the evening meal. Des was planning "pizzaclettes" for us, which was a creation of his in which homemade pizza dough is topped with cheese and meat and then cooked in the raclettes oven. Fanny and her daughter, Jade, were coming to dinner and we were looking forward to seeing them again. The meal was wonderful and unique. Des made the best pizza dough ever! 

Of Pastries and Kings

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal:  April 12, 2014

I awakened early on my first full day in Orléans. I had slept deeply and felt refreshed. I had dozed a bit on the flight over, and had high hopes of avoiding the bleary-eyed fogginess I usually experience. We had coffee together before going out. Desmond had bought a cute set of dishes for me to use. They were in deep pastel colors with flowers and owls on them. I enjoyed drinking my coffee from the cheerful mug. 

Once we were dressed and ready to greet the day, we walked over to Halles Chatelet where we purchased pastries from the little bakery there. We carried our treats to a cafe and ordered coffee to go with them. The raspberry macaron that my son recommended to me was perfection! It was filled with a lightly sweetened, thick cream of some sort. We couldn't figure out exactly what it was. It tasted like a mixture of butter and cream and it was so firm that it cut like butter. The outside edge was studded with large, sweet raspberries. 

Bliss in a raspberry macaron.

Walking through Orléans after breakfast, we did a little window shopping. There are many unique shops there, and as in most French towns, quite a few of the shops specialize in one product. We passed a shop which sells nothing but local honey and honey-related items. The window was charmingly decorated with an enticing array of delights. And the shoe stores! I know I have mentioned them before, but I never cease to be amazed at the number of shoe shops and the variety of footwear they offer. In the U.S. it seems as if every store carries identical merchandise, but these stores have such a bounty of styles and colors! 

We walked on in the spring sunshine, simply taking delight in being outdoors on such a lovely day. We wandered over toward the Hôtel Groslot, which has a beautiful garden in the back. The tulips were especially pretty. Hôtel Groslot is a 15th century mansion which was once used as a town hall and now serves as a lovely place for weddings and civic events. King Francois II died there at the tender age of 16. His royal surgeon had recommended a trepanation to relieve pressure on the brain. This idea was vetoed by the bishop, who stated that no one should ever see into the mind of a king and so the young king died. Or so the story goes. Anyway, the Hôtel Groslot is well worth a visit.

 A back view of the Hôtel Groslot in Orleans, France.

Such lovely gardens!

TRAVEL TIP: Before leaving home, make copies of your passport, drivers license, and credit cards. Carry the copies with you in your luggage or another place separate from the original documents. If your wallet or purse is stolen or lost, you will need the copied items.

I Can't Stop Smiling

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 11, 2014

I was thrilled to be back in Orléans and looked forward to quality time with Desmond, who was almost finished with school for the term. We caught up over a cold beer and some of my favorite chips. I tried some new ones, too - Roast Chicken flavor, and Carbonara. After a bit, we decided to walk around for a while, as it was just too beautiful to stay indoors. There were flowers blooming everywhere, and many of the window boxes were filled with cheerful blossoms. Quite a few people were out and about, enjoying the perfect springtime weather. We stopped in at Halles Chatelet for some things for dinner. And some pastries, of course! On our way home, we took a small detour which led us to the broad expanse of cobblestones along the river Loire. The avenue next to the river was lovely, with nearly every tree leafed out and reflected in the water below. There is a wide sidewalk along the river also, and it was put to good use by the many joggers, bicyclers, and pedestrians all enjoying the peaceful, cool evening. 

The beautiful river Loire draws people to its banks on a fine evening.

Cheerful spring blossoms.

For supper, Desmond created a delicious meal of pasta with a sauce made of duck mousse, cream, and truffle oil. The dish was topped with some thinly sliced Italian ham and was absolutely wonderful. The roasted broccoli was a perfect accompaniment. (I wish I would have snapped a photo of that delightful meal.) My son is an accomplished and creative cook. If there is a product that he has trouble locating in his new home country, he will simply make the item from scratch.

 The bakery in Halles Chatelet is one of my favorite shops.

We played a game after dinner, and then devoured the pastries we had picked up earlier – a lemon tart, a caramel éclair, and an amandine cassis. We attempted to watch a movie, but I kept nodding off!  I had been up for over 28 hours. Desmond made up a bed for me with his new mattress, which was very comfortable. I fell asleep with a smile on my face, so happy to be in France once again.

Rain on Our Parade

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Craig and I awoke to a lovely, sunny morning and after a quick cup of coffee, walked the few blocks to our "local" bakery. It had just reopened after having been closed for vacation. We selected some yummy-looking pastries and took them back to our little apartment where we enjoyed them with more of that fragrant, mellow coffee. Desmond and his friend, Matt arrived just then, so he and I walked back to the bakery for more pastries while Craig started another pot of coffee. At the bakery, a long line had formed all the way out the door to the edge of the sidewalk. There was a man sitting in front, selling sprigs of lily-of-the-valley, which is a tradition on May 1. Mathieu bought one for me, wrapped with pretty ribbons. There was a beautiful long-haired dog waiting patiently for his owner, a young woman who was standing in line directly behind us. A man came out of the bakery, carrying a bag from which several baguettes were protruding. When he bent down to examine the flowers, the big dog very slowly leaned toward the bread and was just about to take a bite when his owner noticed him. She chastised the dog, who lay down on the sidewalk looking somewhat dejected. When it was finally our turn at the bakery counter, we purchased a bag of chouquettes, an amande (a flaky crust which was filled with blackberry jam, topped with a thin, glazed crust and a cherry) and a lovely fruit tart. The tart was filled with beautifully arranged fruit which was coated with a shiny glaze. All of the items in the pastry case were so pretty - I wanted to taste every one! 

A bread-loving Briard.

Our neighborhood bakery in Orléans, France.

After breakfast, we decided to attend the Joan of Arc festival, even though a chilly drizzle was beginning to fall. Just as we left the apartment, our host, Pascal, approached and handed me a little vase filled with lily-of-the-valley. He could have had no idea how much the May basket tradition meant to me, and I was very touched. At home, I have been leaving May baskets at my parent's door every year for almost forty years. In fact, because I knew I would be in France for May day, I had arranged with one of my daughters to deliver the flowers in my stead.

We had only one umbrella with us, but set out with hopes of finding some plastic rain ponchos at the festival grounds. The festival was taking place on an island at a lake a couple of miles from town. By the time we found a place to park, the rain was falling in earnest. We slogged through the parking lot and across the bridge onto the island where we soon discovered there were no ponchos or umbrellas to be found. The four of us were determined to have a good time, so we continued on. Our first stop was a large food tent where we able to find seats out of the downpour. We dined on spit-roasted ostrich, which tasted a bit like beef, only sweeter. It was accompanied by baked potatoes and caramelized onions and was served with our choice of beer, mulled wine, or hard cider. I was tempted to use my baked potato as a hand warmer!

This man is basting ostrich with a bamboo brush.

We were disappointed to learn that the jousting had been canceled due to the muddy conditions. We instead spent some time visiting many of the booths which featured demonstrations of activities from medieval times. We also explored the vendor's tents, and purchased some great souvenirs. I was impressed with the items offered for sale; they had to be made in the old ways - no plastic trinkets or factory-made items here! Craig bought a beautiful handmade wooden beer mug. We picked up seven different kinds of dry sausage in flavors such as wild boar, hazelnut, and juniper berry. We also purchased cookies of several different varieties such as creme fraiche, hazelnut, and caramel. The weather was unrelenting, and we finally decided to call it quits. On our way back to the parking lot, we came upon a procession arriving from town. It was a parade of knights, pages, the band, and Joan of Arc on her white horse. They had marched in the rain all the way from the center of town, and yet were all still smiling and quite enthusiastic in spite of the downpour. In France, they say "Il pleut des cordes" which means, "It is raining ropes." 

A very damp procession at the Joan of Arc festival in Orléans, France

Back at Desmond's place, we warmed up over huge mugs of hot tea and shared all of the different cookies we had purchased at the festival. They were delicious! Finally warm and dry, we walked over to the Rue de Borgogne for dinner. The rain had ceased and the sky was clear. Les Pissenlits par la Racine (The Dandelion Root) is a restaurant serving French food. We had mostly been dining at ethnic restaurants, so this was a nice change. Craig and I both chose the filet of pork with a honey cream sauce. It was served atop a mound of crisply fried potatoes in a huge dish and was wonderful! Des had a rich dish of ham, potatoes, and onions in a creamy sauce with lots of cheese. Tartiflette, perhaps? Mathieu ordered the salmon tartare, which was served with basil sorbet, tomato sorbet, and Bearnaise sauce. There were several delightful-sounding desserts on the menu, but none of us felt we had room for dessert after the large portions we had consumed. When that memorable meal ended, Craig and I decided to forgo the tram, and instead enjoyed a beautiful walk home across the Loire.

Rue de Borgogne after the rain.

A delightful dish of Pork with Honey Cream

RECIPE: Pork with Honey Cream. I liked this dish so well that I re-created it at home. You will find the recipe on our food blog entry here: The Eating Habit

Castles Large and Small

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, April 29, 2013

Craig and I got up earlier than usual so that we could meet Desmond at the train station for a day trip to Blois. Though the morning was overcast and chilly, the trip through the French countryside was still beautiful. By the time we reached Blois, the weather had become drizzly but since we had remembered to bring umbrellas, we weren't really inconvenienced. Our first stop in the lovely town was a patisserie, of course. We carried our bag of goodies over to a nearby cafe, where we asked if we could consume them there, along with the coffee we would purchase. Soon, we were seated at a table in the cozy back room where we enjoyed our mid-morning snack. I tried a new pastry - a Paris Brest - and was not disappointed. It is made of choux pastry, split and filled with a rich toasted hazelnut cream and topped with powdered sugar and toasted almonds. I have a new favorite! The shape of the Paris Brest is said to resemble the wheel of a bike. The pastry was created in 1891 to commemorate a famous bicycle race between Paris and Brest.

Paris Brest and café crème. Worth the trip.

We toured Chateau Royal de Blois after finishing our snack. It was fairly small, as castles go. It has been home to 10 kings and 15 queens. The furnishings were quite lovely, and we enjoyed reading about the history of the chateau. 

Here's your ride up to the castle. 

A royal bedchamber in Blois Chateau.

We then made our way down to the bus stop for the shuttle to the Chateau de Chambord. The long drive along the Loire was very picturesque, even though the day was still overcast and rainy. As the bus pulled up to the entrance, we noticed a group of people on horseback and felt a bit sorry for them riding out in the rain. There are wonderful riding trails on the 13,000 acres surrounding the castle, through beautiful old forests.

Just inside the entrance to the castle grounds there were many outbuildings and tents set up where vendors were selling souvenirs, wine, cheese, and other items. There were also several restaurants there, and we thought it would be a good idea to have a bite before touring the huge castle. We dined leisurely on gallettes, quiche Lorraine, and herb-roasted chicken before finally making our way into the magnificent chateau. Chambord is huge and very ornate. It is said there are 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and 84 staircases. There are very few furnishings inside. The massive structure is extremely expensive to restore and maintain; it is an ongoing work. What we saw was really quite amazing.

The double-helix staircase, which is rumored to have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci, is an architectural wonder! Also wondrous is the roofline of the huge castle. It was commissioned by Francois I to resemble the skyline of Constantinople. It is certainly very unique and interesting. The chateau was originally a hunting lodge, and there is a trophy gallery where many sets of antlers hang on the cold, stone walls. Outside, you will find a moat and acres of beautifully manicured and landscaped lawns surrounded by thick forest. Boats and bicycles are available for rent, though on this day it was too cold to even consider such a thing.

Chambord Castle. And to think it was once a hunting lodge!

A section of the double-helix staircase at Chambord.

Several hours later, we were chilled through. We sighed with relief after boarding the warm bus for the ride back to Blois. We had intended to wander around the town for a while, but the damp chill discouraged us. We headed toward the train station, stopping first at a patisserie where we warmed up over coffee and pastries, laughing as Craig practiced his French. He is of German heritage, and when he speaks French, it comes out with a German accent!

Upon returning to Orléans, we rested for a bit and then we all went to a bar where we met Fanny and her five-year-old daughter, Jade. Craig and I were delighted to meet these friends of Desmond whom we had heard so much about. We had brought along some bottles of bubble solution for Jade, and she was soon happily blowing bubbles in the bar. We invited Fanny and Jade to join us for dinner, but the invitation was politely declined, as they were leaving for a vacation in the Alscace, where Fanny has family.

Des had wanted to introduce me and his dad to his favorite pizza restaurant, but they were closed for some reason, so we walked a bit further to an old favorite, Volpone. We had our meal outside, where the tables were surrounded by heavy sheets of plastic. Space heaters were scattered about the enclosure, emitting a comforting warmth. The pizza was as wonderful as I remembered, especially with the pepper-infused oil to drizzle on top.

Joan of Arc Was Here

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, April 28, 2013

We slept in that morning, and after waking up over several cups of strong, fragrant coffee, we set out to meet Desmond. Even that small thing was a pleasure - walking the few blocks to catch the tram, enjoying the beauty of the morning and the lovely architecture of the old buildings surrounding us. It was a glorious, sunny day and we all welcomed the warmth. We strolled around town, heading toward the Cathedral of St Croix. We stopped at a little bakery along the way, where we bought some sandwiches for an early lunch. We ate them in the open air, sitting beside the fountain across from the magnificent cathedral. After lunch, we had time for a short tour of the structure before we were to meet with Desmond's students. The cathedral was breathtakingly beautiful both inside and out. The high, vaulted ceilings and the intricate stained glass windows were incredible!

A view inside the Cathedral of St Croix in Orleans.

One of the many beautiful stained glass windows.

After the tour, we hopped onto the tram for the half hour ride over to the University of Orléans where we had an enjoyable time visiting with several of Des's students. One of them generously bought coffee for everyone, and another had brought along a paper bag filled with fresh, warm chouquettes, which are little puffs of pastry sparkling with pearl sugar. It was fun chatting with the students as they practiced their English, and I enjoyed learning something about them and the regions or countries from which they had come.

On our way back to the center of town, we stopped at a small market adjacent to the University. Nearby, we saw a sculpture that looked very familiar. It was a smaller version of Blackbear Bosun's "Keeper of the Plains", which stands tall above the river in Wichita, Kansas. This miniature version was a gift from Wichita, which is a sister city to Orléans. 

The Keeper of the Plains, a gift from Wichita.

Here is the original Keeper of the Plains.

Later, we bought a few pastries and took them down to the banks of the Loire, where we sat contentedly in the sun, enjoying our snack. The speculoos eclair I had chosen was delightful. Craig was happy with an apple tart, and Des munched a delicious-looking cherry tart. 

A tasty snack to enjoy by the Loire.

A boat on the Loire in Orléans, France.

We had our evening meal at the Grec Gourmand, where we had dined on previous occasions. The kebab sandwich and fries were tasty and filling. We had a bit of time to kill before the beginning of the Fêtes de Jeanne d'Arc, so we played a game of Phase 10 back at Desmond's apartment. As we were playing, we began to notice many people making their way down to the banks of the Loire. Most of them were wearing medieval costume. Many band members also passed by, and we were soon following them down to the river. It was not quite dark when we reached the water's edge, and we were able to find a good vantage point from which to view the opening ceremony of the festival. There were many soldiers holding torches, and mock battles were taking place along the walk but soon all eyes turned toward the water, as Joan of Arc came sailing across. She disembarked and mounted a beautiful white horse to begin the long procession to the Cathedral. We were swept up in the crowd, and walked along for most of the way, hearing the speeches, but not understanding more than a word or two. As we continued down the Rue de Borgogne, it was fun to see many people almost hanging out of their apartment windows to witness the spectacle below. At one window, I counted at least eight people laughing and jostling for a view. It was a fun evening for all of us.

Waiting for Joan of Arc. 

RECIPE: Honey Peppers
This is a tasty side dish is simple and delicious! Just seed one or two red bell peppers and cut into strips. Saute the strips over medium heat in a mixture of equal parts olive oil and honey until the desired tenderness is achieved. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Serve hot.

Meanwhile, in France...

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, April 27, 2013

Just another beautiful day in France! Craig and I awoke to some very welcome sunlight streaming through the shades. It was so pleasant to be able to brew a pot of coffee in our little kitchen and enjoy the strong, fragrant beverage while listening to some soft music. 

This was our view outside Halles Chatelet 
as we enjoyed our eclairs.

We made our way across the river to Halles Chatelet, where we purchased a couple of delightful caramel eclairs and then sat outside in the sun while we enjoyed them. Desmond came into view not long after we had finished. We all had plans to meet some friends of theirs for a picnic, but due to an illness, the plans had to be changed. The three of us decided to visit Parc Floral, the botanical gardens in Orléans. We rode the tram out to Parc Floral de la Source. Des had packed a picnic lunch, and we were going to eat right away, but some clouds had moved in and it began to sprinkle. We instead visited the Butterfly House. 

It was lovely and warm inside the butterfly house. There were many beautiful and unusual butterflies fluttering about. The plants in there were lush and gorgeous. It was difficult to photograph the butterflies because the humidity inside kept fogging my camera lens. When at last we emerged into the park again, the rain had stopped. We located a picnic table near a tiny chapel on the grounds and unpacked the lunch Desmond had prepared. The ham and cheese sandwiches on crusty baguettes were delicious, as was the rich, hot chocolate. We were intrigued by the three flavors of chips - goat cheese bugles, roast chicken and thyme, and Bolognese! 

A beautiful resident of the Butterfly House at Parc Floral.

After lunch, we began to explore the park. It was absolutely wonderful, and I can't even begin to properly describe it! Even though it was a bit early in the season for the blooming plants, there was so much to see. Trees trimmed into fanciful shapes dotted the landscape, along with naturally growing species of every kind. There were several sculptures, a cute train to ride on, and even a charming watermill on a stream. Everywhere you turn, you will discover something unique and beautiful.

So picturesque!

There is even a little zoo, and a charming playground for the children. The place is enormous, and we did so much walking - but it was worth it. We especially enjoyed La Source, the spring that is indeed the source of the Loiret. It is a very large spring, though it flows quietly in its secluded grove. We explored Parc Floral for hours. It is such a delightful place. 

La Source, the beautiful spring in Parc Floral.

That evening, we visited Aurelie and Tonio, friends of Desmond, who live in a beautiful stone house that is at least 350 years old! I loved the beamed ceilings and the warm stone walls. Aurelie and Tonio are a charming couple who both speak a bit of English. We enjoyed the apero that was prepared for us, and nibbled on several different types of cheese along with olives, sausage,  pâte, duck mousse (a favorite of mine), crusty bread, and tiny pickles. There was a selection of beer and wine as well. We enjoyed the meal, talking and laughing. Later, we played a noisy game of Pit, which was fun. I was glad the building had such thick stone walls so we would not be disturbing anyone!