Take a hike!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, May 8 2024

We had all slept well in our cozy gîte. The four of us breakfasted on brioche, which we spread with some incredibly good preserves made by Vincent’s father. It was difficult to decide which was my favorite - the wild cherry, or the mirabelle plum! Then, we set out to drive to Banne d'Ordanche, an ancient volcano in the upper Dordogne valley. The scenery along the gently curving roadway was simply beautiful. As we passed through the tiny village of Murat le Quaire, we were stopped by police, who told us that we would have to wait to proceed because of the Victory Day ceremony which was taking place. We got out of the car and walked a few yards to take in the scene. Several village officials were making speeches, and a band stood by. Police and firefighters stood at attention. We were part of a small crowd of onlookers and were very touched by the ceremony,  which commemorates the end of World War II in Europe.

Afterward, we stopped at a souvenir shop and made a few purchases before continuing our drive. Soon, we arrived at the foot of the volcano, which rises nearly a mile above sea level. A chilly breeze had picked up, but the sun shone brightly in a sky strewn with puffy little clouds. Desmond loaned me one of his hiking sticks and we began our trek up the slope. I was very grateful for the support of the hiking pole, but had to stop every now and then to stretch my back muscles. The path became steeper, and I discovered that leaning forward to ascend was actually easing the pain. We all stopped occasionally to admire the views unfolding around and below us. Farms and small villages were tucked into little wooded valleys, and we could see sheep and cattle grazing on the lush pastures. Every now and then, as we climbed, a lark would fly up into the air. I was entranced by its melodious song. When we reached the summit, we all sat down to admire the breathtaking, 360 degree view. Though it had been a short hike, I was thrilled to have done it, bad back and all! 

Banne d'Ordanche in the Auvergne

Desmond and Craig
hiking on a chilly day in France

Upon returning to the gîte, Desmond and Vincent prepared a wonderful lunch of raclettes. The ham, potatoes, and melted cheese were filling and delicious, accompanied by a hearty baguette and crunchy little pickles. Craig, Desmond, and Vincent went out for a longer hike after that, but I was content to remain behind. 

A meal of raclettes is always a treat!

Another view outside our gite
on a beautiful spring day.

When they returned, we had just enough time to head over to our host’s farm to watch Sandrine making the St. Nectaire cheese for which the region is known. It was a treat to look on as she explained each step of the method. The cheese must be made with the freshest of milk, so the process begins as soon as the cows are milked. Twice a day, every day, this delightful cheese is created. Her St. Nectaire cheese has won high awards, and it’s no wonder. Sandrine's dedication to her craft is above reproach. 

We were offered fresh cheese curds to taste.

Cheese-making equipment. 

We watched through a window as Sandrine
 explained the info on the cheese label.

That evening, back in our cottage, we tucked into a delightful meal of pasta salad, that wonderful cheese, hazelnut sausage, and the inevitable baguette. Vincent and Desmond had picked up some scrumptious pastries for dessert. We cut them into pieces so that we could share and enjoy all four; the raspberry macaron, millefeuille, religieuse, and Paris Brest. It had been such a wonderful day. I sat outside on the terrace with Vincent to watch the sunset, and then we all played a game of dominos before heading off to bed.

 

A peaceful sunset in France

Simple Things

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, April 25 2022

We awoke to a beautiful morning and the sweet sounds of birds chirping in the courtyard below. A tarte citron, coffee, and milk made a yummy breakfast. We didn’t have big plans for the day, as Desmond would have to go to work that afternoon. A long walk beside the Loire that morning was just perfect and the weather couldn’t have been better. 

A pretty blooming tree

Swans float serenely on the Loire.

Craig and Desmond on the river path

On the way home, we cut through the Jardin des Plantes and enjoyed seeing the gorgeous blooms and unique plants. Des veered off to a market to pick up items for lunch, while Craig and I ambled through the gardens. 

For lunch, Desmond made a delicious dish of goat cheese ravioli topped with grilled eggplant. He left for work while Craig took a nap. I threw a load of clothes into the washer and after Craig awoke we had afternoon coffee and a game of Scrabble before taking our clothes to a nearby laundromat to dry. The laundromat was directly across from the Loire, so we had a nice view while we waited for our clothes to dry. 

Desmond had made pizza dough before he left the house, and for dinner that evening we had a treat. Pizzaclettes! This was a little invention of his, using a raclette oven to bake the dough. We then cut the dough into small wedges and topped them with fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, red bell pepper, and grilled eggplant. The filled raclette trays were placed under the heat until the cheese bubbled. It was such a fun and tasty meal. For dessert, we enjoyed oranges and some bread topped with Desmond’s homemade chocolate spread.

Pizzaclettes!

Baking pizza in the raclettes oven

A Lazy Day

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, March 9, 2011

We had a great day, though we didn't really do all that much in the way of "touristy" stuff. Desmond had to work that morning, so Craig and I slept late, had breakfast of - what else - pastries and coffee, and then walked over to Carrefour to do some shopping. We meandered around the mall until it was time for lunch, and just grabbed a couple of sandwiches at a little place there. 

Rue de la Republique, across from Carrefour in Orleans, France.

Des met us at the hotel in early afternoon and we accompanied him back to Carrefour so that he could shop for the dinner that he was preparing for us that evening. returning to the apartment, the three of chatted for a while over snacks and drinks. Des and Craig then left for an excursion to a cat shelter across town. I remained behind so that I could make some phone calls home and check my email. At the rescue shelter, a very beautiful, blue-eyed cat named Azur chose Desmond, climbing into his lap as if to say "I'm yours!"  How could he resist?  I was sorry that I would not get to meet Azur, as he had to remain at the shelter for a few more days. Craig had taped a video of the cat and the shelter, so at least I got to see what he looks like.

Yes, I photograph doors.

Dinner was an enjoyable meal. It was a raclettes party! Antoine joined us and we really had fun. The raclettes machine is a table-top oven into which small skillets heaped with cheese are placed. The top of the oven is used to warm the cooked potatoes. The bubbly, melted cheese is then poured over a plate of potatoes and charcuterie, or deli meat, with a side of cornichons, which are tangy little pickles. Some people like to also add a cooked egg to their dish. It's a casual and very social way to dine, somewhat like a fondue party, and is popular in France, Switzerland, and Belgium. 

The raclettes oven. Try it if you get the chance!

We played Pit after dinner, which is a very noisy card-trading game. The French are somewhat reserved, and I was afraid that this rowdy game might be a bit much for Antoine. He enjoyed it, and thanks to the thick stone walls of the apartment, we didn't upset any neighbors!