Where There's Smoke...

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 21, 2014

How wonderful it was to awaken in our cozy room at the Jackotel in Orléans, France. Craig and I have always enjoyed traveling together. We take pleasure in the little things, such as sipping our morning coffee while enjoying whatever view is available outside our windows. The gravel courtyard of the hotel and the fragrant lilac bushes nearby provided a lovely foreground as the ancient church opposite the street cast shadows across the square.

The ancient church of St. Aignan.

Desmond and his friend Mathieu soon arrived, and the four of us went in search of breakfast. We had plans to meet Mathieu's parents, Muriel and Thierry, for lunch later at a restaurant in a village halfway between Orléans and Bitry. Thierry had made reservations at a picturesque place that he knew we would enjoy. It was our only chance to see our friends, since we would be leaving for Annecy the next day. 

The lovely Burgundian countryside.

The drive that morning began uneventfully. I haven't traveled much in Burgundy, but what I have seen is pleasant countryside with gently rolling hills, farms, vineyards, sunflowers, and fields of crops which reminded me of Kansas. As we rolled along, following the river, we noticed a large encampment of caravans (motorhomes) and tents in a wooded area near the Loire. Smoke from numerous campfires lazily drifted toward the sky. Further along, we noticed more smoke, but it was coming from beneath the hood of Mathieu's car! 

Mathieu pulled over onto the shoulder of the busy highway, and soon had the hood open. He and Craig extinguished the fire as Des and I cast a wary eye on the darkening skies above us. We were on a rather deserted stretch of a very busy highway. There was a tidy farm just across the road, from which we were being eyed warily by the occupants. Many vehicles passed us by, and yet not one paused to offer help or to inquire about our situation. This struck me as somewhat odd, even for France. Back home in the Midwest, we would have received numerous offers of assistance. A truckload of soldiers eventually stopped long enough to wish us luck, and then sped away.

Mathieu had been on his phone, contacting a tow service, and we settled down to wait. The farm family across the road had come toward us as we huddled uncomfortably on the damp verge but they looked straight past our little group, and without a word went into a field to dig potatoes. It was a relief to see the tow truck after what seemed like a lengthy wait. The driver was a chatty sort. He and Mathieu had a long conversation in which the driver informed him that there were two large encampments of gypsies in the area. Spring is the time of year for their mass weddings and baptisms, he explained. It's a gigantic family reunion. He said that the locals distrusted the Roma people, and we wondered if that was why no one had even glanced at us while we stood stranded by the road.  

After a long drive in the tow truck, AWAY from where we had come, we arrived at a garage to find a taxi waiting to return us to Orléans. I watched in horror as the meter on the taxi clicked away the kilometers. By the time we reached Orléans, it was nearly 200 euros! Mathieu told me not to worry - the cost of the cab was covered by his auto insurance. Whew!  

Day Trippin'

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, May 2, 2013

We were up early again to catch another train. This time, our day trip would take us past Blois to Amboise, where we would visit Château du Clos Lucé. Leonardo da Vinci had resided at Clos Lucé during the last few years of his remarkable life. Desmond had visited before and knew this would be something that both Craig and I would enjoy. The weather was cool and overcast as we arrived, but we had hopes of sunny weather later in the day.

The village of Amboise is absolutely beautiful. We admired the lovely architecture as we ambled along in search of a patisserie for a belated breakfast. We soon found a charming little shop near the river that offered lots of pastries and many different kinds of baguettes and rustic breads. Some of the loaves had been baked with a large hole on one end, and they were hanging from wooden pegs at the counter. I wish I had thought to take a picture. 

After our delightful breakfast, we set off across the bridge spanning the Loire, heading toward Clos Lucé. The view of Château Royal d'Amboise was wonderful, even in the grey light of morning. It looked like a mighty stronghold, towering above the village and the river. We had decided to skip a visit to the castle in order to spend more time at the residence of Leonardo da Vinci. As we walked the cobblestone streets of the town, we passed many charming shops and enticing restaurants. It was a pleasant stroll along pathways lined with trees and flowers in bloom.

Amboise Castle in on a grey morning in May.

It wasn't long before we reached Clos Lucé. The line for entry was not a long one, and soon we were touring the buildings in awe of the man who had dwelt there, and at the beauty of the grounds. The house itself was well furnished and seemed almost homey. The areas in which da Vinci's fascinating inventions are displayed were well-lit and provided information in several languages. It literally gave me goosebumps to see the incredible works this man had created. He invented and/or perfected many of the items we still use today. 

Clos Lucé, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci.

Yes, even the lowly pipe wrench was created by da Vinci.

The expansive grounds are beautifully landscaped and feature many interactive displays with life-sized inventions that are actually operational. The tank, pumps, cannon, flying machine, and everything else was fascinating. There is a lovely stream flowing quietly through the property and there are many groves of moss-covered trees lending shade to scene. The sun had finally made an appearance as we wandered toward the dovecote. The stone structure was a large one which had housed over a thousand doves in their nesting cubbies. A large half-timbered building nearby was once the priory, but had been turned into a restaurant where the staff all wear medieval costume. 

The Priory, which is now a restaurant at Clos Lucé.

We wandered the grounds and toured the buildings for hours. This is a place I could definitely return to. It is simply fascinating. We made our way down to town by a different route, which afforded us some wonderful views of the ancient village below. By the time we had descended, we were more than ready for lunch. We found a table outside at one of the restaurants which faces Amboise Castle and were treated to a stunning view as we dined. We all chose the plat du jour, which happened to be lasagna. But first, we began with a starter. I selected a salad of shredded carrot topped with a delicious orange vinaigrette. Craig and Des asked for the pate, which was served with tiny dill pickles and crusty bread. Our lasagna arrived shortly, and it was fabulous!  

Amboise Castle, a lovely view to accompany lunch.

After that delicious lunch, we wandered the streets for a while, poking around in the shops and finding some nice souvenirs before heading back toward the train station. Once there, we discovered that we had just over an hour to wait before the next train. We walked across the street to a bakery where we indulged in pastries and coffee. Back at the station, we spoke briefly with a very nice couple from Canada who have one daughter living in Lyon, France and another residing in Miami, Florida! And we thought our kids were scattered! 

The weather had turned out to be beautifully sunny and warm. We decided to go for ice cream after returning to Orléans, at one of Desmond's favorite places. I could not believe the variety! Beer ice cream, fois gras ice cream - you name it, they probably made it! I chose something a bit tame - a scoop of lemon and one of dark chocolate. Both flavors were decadent! Craig felt like going back to the apartment for a rest, so Des and I continued on together, talking about our day as we explored some more shops. I found a couple of lovely scarves and other small items. 

That evening, instead of a meal at a restaurant, we chose to go to a bar that is frequented by Desmond and his friends. We ordered a "planche" to go along with our drinks.  A large plank of wood soon arrived at our table, with our "snack" laid out upon it. The food was beautifully arranged and consisted of no less than five different cheeses, ham, dry sausage, blood sausage, apple and orange slices, raisins, pickled onions, dill pickles, pate, and a basket of toast on the side! Wow! It was quite enough for the three of us, though we barely touched the blood sausage. We had such fun, sitting outside in the warm evening air, talking and laughing as we enjoyed our snack. To go with it, Des had suggested that I try the Kriek, a cherry beer. It had just the right amount of sweetness and really hit the spot. It's things like this - just a fun, casual meal with loved ones - that I remember the most.

A planche, which we enjoyed at a bar in Orléans.

Rain on Our Parade

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Craig and I awoke to a lovely, sunny morning and after a quick cup of coffee, walked the few blocks to our "local" bakery. It had just reopened after having been closed for vacation. We selected some yummy-looking pastries and took them back to our little apartment where we enjoyed them with more of that fragrant, mellow coffee. Desmond and his friend, Matt arrived just then, so he and I walked back to the bakery for more pastries while Craig started another pot of coffee. At the bakery, a long line had formed all the way out the door to the edge of the sidewalk. There was a man sitting in front, selling sprigs of lily-of-the-valley, which is a tradition on May 1. Mathieu bought one for me, wrapped with pretty ribbons. There was a beautiful long-haired dog waiting patiently for his owner, a young woman who was standing in line directly behind us. A man came out of the bakery, carrying a bag from which several baguettes were protruding. When he bent down to examine the flowers, the big dog very slowly leaned toward the bread and was just about to take a bite when his owner noticed him. She chastised the dog, who lay down on the sidewalk looking somewhat dejected. When it was finally our turn at the bakery counter, we purchased a bag of chouquettes, an amande (a flaky crust which was filled with blackberry jam, topped with a thin, glazed crust and a cherry) and a lovely fruit tart. The tart was filled with beautifully arranged fruit which was coated with a shiny glaze. All of the items in the pastry case were so pretty - I wanted to taste every one! 

A bread-loving Briard.

Our neighborhood bakery in Orléans, France.

After breakfast, we decided to attend the Joan of Arc festival, even though a chilly drizzle was beginning to fall. Just as we left the apartment, our host, Pascal, approached and handed me a little vase filled with lily-of-the-valley. He could have had no idea how much the May basket tradition meant to me, and I was very touched. At home, I have been leaving May baskets at my parent's door every year for almost forty years. In fact, because I knew I would be in France for May day, I had arranged with one of my daughters to deliver the flowers in my stead.

We had only one umbrella with us, but set out with hopes of finding some plastic rain ponchos at the festival grounds. The festival was taking place on an island at a lake a couple of miles from town. By the time we found a place to park, the rain was falling in earnest. We slogged through the parking lot and across the bridge onto the island where we soon discovered there were no ponchos or umbrellas to be found. The four of us were determined to have a good time, so we continued on. Our first stop was a large food tent where we able to find seats out of the downpour. We dined on spit-roasted ostrich, which tasted a bit like beef, only sweeter. It was accompanied by baked potatoes and caramelized onions and was served with our choice of beer, mulled wine, or hard cider. I was tempted to use my baked potato as a hand warmer!

This man is basting ostrich with a bamboo brush.

We were disappointed to learn that the jousting had been canceled due to the muddy conditions. We instead spent some time visiting many of the booths which featured demonstrations of activities from medieval times. We also explored the vendor's tents, and purchased some great souvenirs. I was impressed with the items offered for sale; they had to be made in the old ways - no plastic trinkets or factory-made items here! Craig bought a beautiful handmade wooden beer mug. We picked up seven different kinds of dry sausage in flavors such as wild boar, hazelnut, and juniper berry. We also purchased cookies of several different varieties such as creme fraiche, hazelnut, and caramel. The weather was unrelenting, and we finally decided to call it quits. On our way back to the parking lot, we came upon a procession arriving from town. It was a parade of knights, pages, the band, and Joan of Arc on her white horse. They had marched in the rain all the way from the center of town, and yet were all still smiling and quite enthusiastic in spite of the downpour. In France, they say "Il pleut des cordes" which means, "It is raining ropes." 

A very damp procession at the Joan of Arc festival in Orléans, France

Back at Desmond's place, we warmed up over huge mugs of hot tea and shared all of the different cookies we had purchased at the festival. They were delicious! Finally warm and dry, we walked over to the Rue de Borgogne for dinner. The rain had ceased and the sky was clear. Les Pissenlits par la Racine (The Dandelion Root) is a restaurant serving French food. We had mostly been dining at ethnic restaurants, so this was a nice change. Craig and I both chose the filet of pork with a honey cream sauce. It was served atop a mound of crisply fried potatoes in a huge dish and was wonderful! Des had a rich dish of ham, potatoes, and onions in a creamy sauce with lots of cheese. Tartiflette, perhaps? Mathieu ordered the salmon tartare, which was served with basil sorbet, tomato sorbet, and Bearnaise sauce. There were several delightful-sounding desserts on the menu, but none of us felt we had room for dessert after the large portions we had consumed. When that memorable meal ended, Craig and I decided to forgo the tram, and instead enjoyed a beautiful walk home across the Loire.

Rue de Borgogne after the rain.

A delightful dish of Pork with Honey Cream

RECIPE: Pork with Honey Cream. I liked this dish so well that I re-created it at home. You will find the recipe on our food blog entry here: The Eating Habit

Oops!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, March 10, 2011

Craig and I had planned to arise early for a day trip to Chambord, since Desmond would be at work all day, but I had forgotten to set the alarm. With the shutters closed, our room was quite dark and we didn't wake until 11:00! We were very disappointed, but set out to make the most of our extra day in Orléans. 

We decided to do a bit of shopping and took the tram across town to Auchan. There, we ate lunch at Flunch, which is next door to the mega-market. We managed to order without holding up the line too badly. I like the way you can choose your salad, main course, and dessert and then have as many side dishes as you wish. No one ever goes away hungry! 

In Auchan, we wandered the aisles, looking for items to take back to the U.S. I found some wonderful scented soaps and a fabulous tea that was soon to become my favorite. We also put together a tool box for Des. He didn't own even the most basic of household tools and was badly in need of those things. 

On our way back to the hotel, we stopped in at the wonderful little bakery at Halles Chatelet and picked up some pastries to enjoy with our afternoon coffee. The caramel eclair I chose was one of the best pastries I have ever tasted! Craig liked it, too, and he also ate a bouchon, which was like a baba au rhum without the custard. Why can't we find such delights back home? 

What to choose?

After Desmond was finished with work for the day, his friend Mathieu picked us up. We crowded into Matt's little car for the two-hour drive to Bitry, where we would have dinner with his family. This was something we were very much looking forward to, as we had dined with them in the past and had a wonderful time. 

It was twilight when we arrived. We were immediately greeted by two very enthusiastic Boxer dogs. We had met Roxy on our previous visit, and were now being introduced to her half-grown pup, Rouky. Mathieu's parents, Muriel and Thierry, and younger brother Gregoire were soon welcoming us back into their home. After greetings and kisses all around, we were ushered into the dining room, where the table was set with a beautiful floral arrangement surrounded by charming accents of wooden mushrooms and nuts. The meal began with champagne which was mixed with a green apple liqueur. This was something I had never tried before and I really liked it. We nibbled from small dishes of cashews, olives, crackers, and some hot, delicious little puff pastry appetizers which were filled with a variety of flavors from tomato to salmon. 

Thierry pours the wine as we begin our delightful meal.

We had begun a lively discussion of the days events as we moved on to the next course. A large tureen of Pot au Feu was brought to the table. Muriel ladled up servings of vegetables in a rich, beef broth fragrant with herbs. As before, a different wine was served with almost every course. We slowly savored our soup as we talked and told them of our misfortune of having overslept and missed our trip to the castle.

Next, Thierry brought out from the kitchen a large platter of the tender beef which had been cooked with the vegetables. This was served with a flavorful, dark rustic bread, honey mustard, and fresh butter from Brittany. It was scrumptious! I really didn't feel that I could eat another bite when the cheese course was served. Since I am supposed to limit my intake of dairy products, I only nibbled a tiny bit of the cheese, but Craig certainly enjoyed it. 

It's cheese feast!

Last, but certainly not least, Mathieu came walking into the room with a lovely raspberry-cream cake which had a candle stuck in the center! Everyone began to sing "Happy Birthday" to Craig, much to his surprise. Our travel day had been his birthday, so we had not had a chance to celebrate it, and he was touched by their thoughtful gesture. They had gifts for both of us - a bottle of Muscat, a cute pizza serving set, and a huge bag of walnuts from their own tree; a tree which they had brought from Brittany years ago. Those were the best-tasting walnuts ever!

It was as delicious as it was beautiful!

It was such a wonderful evening, and we will never forget the warmth and hospitality shown to us. I am grateful that Desmond and Mathieu translated so well and so rapidly for all of us. Our conversation had flowed very smoothly, and it seemed as if we were all speaking the same language. 

RECIPE: Here is a version of Pot au Feu made in a crock pot.
  

A Lazy Day

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, March 9, 2011

We had a great day, though we didn't really do all that much in the way of "touristy" stuff. Desmond had to work that morning, so Craig and I slept late, had breakfast of - what else - pastries and coffee, and then walked over to Carrefour to do some shopping. We meandered around the mall until it was time for lunch, and just grabbed a couple of sandwiches at a little place there. 

Rue de la Republique, across from Carrefour in Orleans, France.

Des met us at the hotel in early afternoon and we accompanied him back to Carrefour so that he could shop for the dinner that he was preparing for us that evening. returning to the apartment, the three of chatted for a while over snacks and drinks. Des and Craig then left for an excursion to a cat shelter across town. I remained behind so that I could make some phone calls home and check my email. At the rescue shelter, a very beautiful, blue-eyed cat named Azur chose Desmond, climbing into his lap as if to say "I'm yours!"  How could he resist?  I was sorry that I would not get to meet Azur, as he had to remain at the shelter for a few more days. Craig had taped a video of the cat and the shelter, so at least I got to see what he looks like.

Yes, I photograph doors.

Dinner was an enjoyable meal. It was a raclettes party! Antoine joined us and we really had fun. The raclettes machine is a table-top oven into which small skillets heaped with cheese are placed. The top of the oven is used to warm the cooked potatoes. The bubbly, melted cheese is then poured over a plate of potatoes and charcuterie, or deli meat, with a side of cornichons, which are tangy little pickles. Some people like to also add a cooked egg to their dish. It's a casual and very social way to dine, somewhat like a fondue party, and is popular in France, Switzerland, and Belgium. 

The raclettes oven. Try it if you get the chance!

We played Pit after dinner, which is a very noisy card-trading game. The French are somewhat reserved, and I was afraid that this rowdy game might be a bit much for Antoine. He enjoyed it, and thanks to the thick stone walls of the apartment, we didn't upset any neighbors! 

A French Barbecue

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, July 19, 2009

It felt so good to sleep late and relax over our coffee before getting ready for the day. Desmond brought over a breakfast of fresh pastries, which is always a welcome way to greet the morning. Did I say morning? Well, I suppose 10:45 still qualifies as morning. 

After breakfast, we all went to a barbecue at the home of one of Desmond's friends. There were about a dozen people in the lovely garden; some of them tending a grill upon which sausages and chicken were sizzling. A friendly Doberman named Helios accompanied us on our little tour of the beautifully landscaped garden which featured a waterfall and a koi pond. When lunch was ready, we all sat down to enjoy the barbecued meats and a huge bowl of paella along with fresh bread. There was also plenty of wine and beer. I had never eaten paella. It contained lots of tiny shrimp and scallops and, of course, mussels. I enjoyed trying it and it was very good, although I found I am not a big fan of mussels. Perhaps they are an acquired taste? Later, someone brought out a cheese tray, which I declined, and some ice cream, which I did NOT decline. It was a fun meal, with lots of lively conversation, most of which I could not follow because it was in French. I was seated next to a young woman from Macedonia who was one of just a few people present who spoke English, and we had a very nice conversation. 

After the barbecue, we visited the art museum. I had been there previously with Craig, but got more out of it this time, because we had Desmond to translate. We had an enjoyable time commenting on the many sculptures and paintings.

The beautiful Cathedral of St. Croix, 

not far from the art museum

Later in the afternoon, we met a friend at the Hendrix Pub on Rue de Borgogne. Antoine is a very lively and interesting young man. He is originally from Cyprus and has lived in Jordan and London and has traveled extensively in Europe. He is fluent in several languages and speaks English perfectly, with only a slight accent. We all had so much fun at the Hendrix that we invited Antoine to join us for dinner that evening to celebrate Megan's birthday.

Antoine agreed to dine with us, and we had a wonderful dinner at Wokasie, which is a Mongolian barbecue. It's a large restaurant with an equally large buffet area. The food was quite good, and at 20 euros per person, not too pricey. We ate and laughed and talked for nearly three hours! It really was a party and made Megan's birthday in France even more special. But it also meant another goodbye for Desmond, as he said his farewells to Antoine.  

Tomorrow, we leave for Paris!
  

A Very Orange Stairwell

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, July 17, 2009

That morning, Desmond showed up at the hotel with fresh pastries. We woke up over coffee and conversation, and then left the hotel to explore. Our first stop was the public library, or bibliothèque. That may seem like a strange destination for tourists, but with the three of us having worked at our own local library, we just had to take a look. The library in Orléans is a large, modern structure not far from the train station. There are some lovely views from the huge windows overlooking the town. 

The library in Orléans. 

I couldn't resist taking a photo
 of the very orange stairwell at the library.

Once outside again, we took a wrong turn and were momentarily lost in a very old and lovely residential area. We soon located the tram, which took us across town to Auchan. Desmond and I enjoyed showing Megan around the huge store. I bought some cherries, which were sweet and delicious. The weather was drizzly and cool, but that did not prevent us from going back into town to shop. There are many unique stores on the main streets in Orléans and we had fun poking around in them. 

An interesting place we visited was Halles Chatelet, an indoor market with a wide variety of shops. The hall was built in 1882, and in 1977 was enclosed. There are bakeries and delis, in addition to clothing stores, a cheese shop, a butcher, and gift shops. I picked up a small container of strawberries at a fruit market, which were tiny and delightfully sweet. I couldn't seem to get enough of the delicious fruit there!

Dinner that evening was at Bombay, an Indian restaurant situated on the Rue de Borgogne. The food was wonderful and we had the added bonus of entertainment provided by a trio of musicians. Desmond and I purchased one of their CDs as a souvenir.

Desmond's year of study had almost come to an end. He would soon be returning to America and said he would definitely miss his friends in France, as well as the beautiful country, food, architecture, etc. 

France, I Will Miss You!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, March 1, 2009

I awoke before the alarm, to the enticing aromas from the kitchen below. We opted out of breakfasting at the hotel. I'm sure it would have been delicious, but at 11 Euros per person, it seemed a bit pricey. We finished our final packing and then headed downstairs, where we had two taxis waiting. It was very difficult to say goodbye to Desmond as we sent him off to the train station. We will miss him terribly. Our week together had flown by all too quickly. It was such a fun and relaxing vacation, and was a time of catching up with our son. 

We breakfasted at the airport, where the food was surprisingly good. Our flight left on time, and here I sit, somewhere over the Atlantic ocean, with my journal, reading over what we have done, and jotting down a few "observations":

1. I had always read that the hotel rooms in France are tiny, and that the bathrooms are minuscule. Our experience so far has proved that to be untrue. Even the public bathrooms are different than expected. Most of them were very clean. Each one was a bit different. A couple of them had self-cleaning seats, and some had no seats at all, but at least provided antiseptic wipes with which to clean the porcelain rim.

2. The French love their dogs, and take them everywhere. So - watch where you step. 

3. Orléans has very little crime. We felt safe there, even when walking late at night.

4. The French seldom strike up conversations with strangers. They rarely make eye contact. Shop clerks are very businesslike, and hardly ever smile. If you attempt the language, they will usually respond in a friendly manner, even if you have mangled the words. Just remember to always greet them when you walk in.

5. Food is meant to be slowly savored. It's a very visual experience. Each dish is beautifully and artfully presented. (And keep in mind that we were not dining in expensive restaurants). And no doggie bags! It's almost unheard of.

6. No ice. The only time I had ice in a drink was at the Hard Rock Cafe.

7. The pastries, breads, and candies are phenomenal! They are all works of art. The variety of breads is unlike anything I have seen in America, even in large cities. The pastries and cakes are beautiful; the tarts almost too pretty to eat. The candy shops are amazing, with outstanding quality and variety.

8. French supermarkets are quite interesting. The meat department has, in addition to what we would find at home, rabbit, lamb, horse, tripe, tongues of several different species, ditto the heads, ostrich, kidneys, pig ears, whole (with heads and feet still attached) ducks, geese, chickens, turkey, quail and their eggs, and other birds. And then there's the fish: oysters, mussels, scallops, squid, octopus, and every kind of fish you can imagine, all without wrappings, displayed on beds of crushed ice. Vegetables are mostly inexpensive, with a huge variety available. A large bag of onions was priced at 1 euro, but three ears of corn would set you back 3 euros. (We later learned that most French people consider corn on the cob to be animal feed.) Dairy products are mostly unrefrigerated. And the CHEESE! There are around 400 different types of cheese in France. It's a cheese-lovers paradise. There are several aisles of wine, and you can purchase good ones for only a few dollars. 

9. Household furnishings are expensive. A small bath rug was priced at a minimum of 12 euros. A small, freestanding wooden shelf was 40 to 50 euros. We did manage to find a cheap toaster for Desmond. It was only 13 euros. The crock-pot we bought for him was 30.

10. Everyone wears scarves. Men, women, and children. I saw them on at least 90% of the people there. I love scarves, and consider them to be a great fashion accessory.

11. The soft drinks we had were expensive, and were served in the bottle or can. It's uncommon to find a soft drink for less than 3 euros. And no straws! 

12. Sidewalk cafes! Yes, they are everywhere. It's such a pleasure to sit and enjoy people-watching while sipping a fragrant cup of coffee. During cold weather, most cafes simply hang heavy sheets of plastic, and turn on the space heaters

13. Not one of the hotels in which we stayed provided washcloths. I found this to be odd, but later learned that the French use bath mitts. However, I still found it strange that none were ever provided. Pack your own! You may want to consider taking along some of those disposable types. There were also no hair dryers in the rooms. We had to ask for one each morning at the front desk. We invested in one of our own after the first couple of days.

14. It's rare to find an electric kettle or coffeemaker in a hotel room. A cup of coffee can cost between 2.50 and 3.50 euros and is usually served in tiny cups with no refills. Hot chocolate (chocolat chaud) is served in larger cups and is rich and delicious.

15. French children seem to have better manners than American kids. They are carefully watched by their parents in public, and not just turned loose to run wild. The fathers seem to take a very active role in caring for their children. 

16. I loved my experiences in France, even though ours was a budget vacation. We tried new foods, saw some spectacular sights, and learned a lot about the people, their history, and their culture. I can't wait to go back!

A view toward the Eiffel Tower from Montmartre.

Au Revoir, Orléans

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, February  28, 2009

Whew! We made it to Paris! We settled into the Hotel  Prima Lepic in Montmartre. We arrived by train before noon and took a taxi to the hotel. It was a perfect, warm, sunny day and the streets were packed with pedestrians. I couldn't imagine having to drive anywhere!

I need to back-track just a bit. The night before, we had dinner at Volpone in Orleans, which was Desmond's favorite place to go for pizza. It was very crowded, with it being a Friday night. We squeezed into our places at a small table in the noisy room and ordered our pizza. French pizza was unlike any I had ever tasted. It was fantastic! My selection was a combination of mushrooms, onion, cheese, and lardons (that tasty smoky, stuff that is like a cross between ham and bacon. It is more flavorful and tender than Canadian bacon) atop a base of creme fraiche. Craig and Des both ordered pizza with a red sauce, lardons, and two or three different kinds of cheese, plus the unusual addition of an egg, sunny-side-up atop the pizza! Desmond urged us to try it, and it was really quite good. There was a bottle of pepper-infused olive oil on each table, and we drizzled it onto our pizza for a surprisingly good punch of flavor on an already delicious pizza. Each pizza was plate-sized and was more than adequate. In fact, Desmond and I could not quite finish ours. 

It was late when the three of us returned to the Ibis. We had chosen to walk off some of our meal, and the 20 minute stroll in the cool night air was refreshing. We packed most of our things, setting aside what we would need for the morning. Craig and I awoke before Des, so we walked over to Paul to pick up some breakfast pastries. Craig chose a couple of his favorite fruit-filled pastries, while I picked out a chocolate-filled beignet. We ordered pain au chocolat for our son, but apparently our French got a bit muddled along the way, because we ended up with a couple of pastries that were studded with raisins. Des was surprised when we walked in with breakfast treats, as he had thought we had only gone out for coffee. 

Our train ride to Paris was pleasant, with the sun shining in a clear blue sky. On the outskirts of Paris, we passed an area of high-rise apartment buildings in a slightly rundown neighborhood. I saw the usual towels and rugs draped over balcony railings, but had to smile when I saw a bicycle hanging from one of the rails! 

Gare d'Austerlitz in Paris

Upon arriving at Gare d'Austerlitz, we had no trouble procuring a taxi to the hotel. It was early, so it wasn't surprising to find that our room was not yet ready. We stowed our luggage in a large closet behind the front desk, and set off to find some lunch. A short distance down the street, we ordered sandwiches from a small stand on a corner near the hotel;  panini for Craig and I, and a sausage and cheese crepe for Desmond. As I stepped back to snap a photo, I noticed that we were right next to the Moulin Rouge! We found a bench in the median on the Boulevard de Clichy, and and enjoyed our sandwiches, tossing a bit of crust now and then to the one pigeon, which in no time became 20 pigeons. A cheeky sparrow flitted down into the mob of bigger birds to grab a crumb or two.

After lunch, we wandered around, checking out the sights and avoiding the many sex shops in the district. We shopped for a few souvenirs (NOT in the sex shops, thank you very much!) and then walked several more blocks to the very old Montmartre Cemetery. It was actually quite interesting to see the many old gravestones and the numerous ornate crypts. Some of them resembled small chapels! We saw a beautifully marked tabby cat curled in the sun atop one of the headstones. 

This Parisian kitty has found a peaceful, sunny spot for a nap.

 

Art Museums and Creperies

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, February 26, 2009

We were a bit lazy that morning, and just sat around for a while drinking coffee. I'm very glad we had purchased that coffeemaker several days ago. It has been wonderfully convenient as well as a money-saver!  A cup of coffee at a cafe runs about 2.50 to 3.50 - and that's in Euros! The Illy espresso we bought is delicious. It's actually an Italian espresso. It's very fragrant and flavorful; strong but smooth. 

Des arrived at the hotel around lunchtime. We walked over to Stratto, where we had eaten once before, and since I still wasn't quite ready for lunch, I ordered an apple tart. Craig and Desmond had sandwiches. There was some commotion in the street outside the cafe. It was a parade of protesters - the teacher's strike, I believe- and some of the streets were blocked for a while.

Soon, Des had to leave for school. Craig and I walked over to the art museum, Musée des Beaux-Arts. We really enjoyed our time there, though I wish more of the information had been in English. Or that my French was better! The museum has a nice collection, which includes paintings by Picasso, Gaugin, Van Dyck, and sculptures by Rodin and Bandinelli. They also have the largest collection of pastels in France, outside of the Louvre.

We later browsed in some of the shops in town. I enjoy looking at the clothing, though not much of it is suitable for a 57-year-old grandma! It was inevitable that we found a pastry shop, where we purchased some treats to take back to the hotel. There, we brewed another pot of fragrant coffee and enjoyed our little snack.

I'd like to try ALL the pastries!

Desmond joined us at the hotel after he returned from work. We walked to a little bar where we met his friends, Mathieu and Arno, for a drink. Arno is a very nice young man who speaks flawless English. Craig and I enjoyed trying a Monaco for the first time. It's a refreshing drink made from mixing carbonated lemonade with grenadine and beer. Arno joined us for dinner later at the Cafe Bretonne. It is a creperie, and we were looking forward to trying the galettes (savory crepes) that Des had spoken of. He said that these are the best he had tried outside of Brittany. We enjoyed our evening very much. The creperie was a charming place; long and narrow, high ceilings with old beams, the walls decorated with collections of teacups and old coffee grinders. The heavy wooden farmhouse tables were spread with cloths in warm colors. Fresh water arrived at the table in a hefty earthenware jug with cups to match. I'd like to have a set like that, myself!  We shared a bottle of fermented, sweet cider from Brittany, which is traditionally served in pottery cups or mugs. It was delightful. Our gallettes were fabulous. It was difficult to choose, but I had one made with mushrooms, herbs, and creme fraiche. Desmond ate one which featured potato, ham, cheese, and caramelized onion, which he gave me a taste of. It was outstanding! All of the gallettes are served with a huge pat of butter melting on the top. For dessert, we all simply had to order - what else - a crepe! Mine was a delicious combination of banana and caramel, Des chose chocolate and orange, Craig ate a caramel crepe, and Arno a Nutella crepe, and Mathieu enjoyed a crepe flambe of apple and pear. It was such a fun meal. We had all been trading tongue twisters and words that are difficult to pronounce in both languages, and we were often laughing until tears came to our eyes! 

Here are just a few of 
the many coffee grinders decorating the creperie.

After dinner there was just enough time for us to drive over to Auchan, which is a large chain store somewhat like a Super-Target. We bought a crock-pot for Des and we also got him some speakers for his computer. He often enjoyed watching movies on his computer, since he didn't yet own a tv. The speakers would make it a much better experience. Our son was thrilled with the  gifts. He said it felt like Christmas! Tomorrow we would like to buy a toaster for him. And some groceries. Yep, even in France we have that need to feed.

Recipe: Don't be intimidated by this recipe for French cream puffs. It's really very simple. Your friends and family will be awed by your expertise!

A Dinner in Burgundy

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009

Perhaps Craig and I are getting over our jet lag. We didn't oversleep this morning! Desmond had some business at school, so we were on our own for a while. We enjoyed coffee in our room, and polished off the pain au chocolat from yesterday. We wandered back over to the little mall near the train station and strolled through many of the stores, but didn't buy much of anything. When Des returned at noon, We found a cafe where Craig and Des enjoyed fluffy omelettes while I munched on a croque monsieur, which is the French version of a grilled cheese sandwich. After our meal, we browsed in some of the shops downtown. We went into FNAC, where with my son's coaching, I was able to ask for some accordion music on CD. Des then took us into Halles Chatelet, where his favorite bakery is located and we were simply blown away by the enticing array of delightful creations on display. Everything there was a miniature work of art. Craig and I were unable to resist the eclairs. He chose one with a coffee-flavored filling, while I selected a caramel one. They were both fantastic! I wished I could take some of that deliciousness back home with me. 

Soon, it was time to return to the hotel to freshen up for our dinner that evening with the family of one of Desmond's friends, Mathieu. Matt met us at the hotel, and we all crammed ourselves into his tiny car for the two-hour drive to an old farmhouse in Burgundy, near Bitry, where the family lived. We followed the Loire to Gien, where we got out to take a break. What a charming town! It is simply beautiful. We found a bakery, of course, and each chose a cookie to munch while exploring. We walked up many stone steps to the Chateau which dominates the town. There is a panoramic view from up there, of the river and the town. I would love to do some exploring in Gien someday. It has a famous pottery factory and of course, a museum in the Chateau. 

A view of the rooftops of Gien, 
where the Loire flows through town.

As we made our way back down to where the car was parked, we heard tinkling music and lots of childish laughter and soon came upon the source of it: a small ice skating rink had been set up in town, and there were several children ice skating or being pushed around in little sled-like chairs. 

It looks like fun!

We continued on toward Bitry, enjoying the pleasant views of countryside dotted with old stone houses, meandering streams, and forested land. The twilight lasted until we pulled into the driveway of the old farmhouse in which Mathieu's family lives. Bitry is a village of about 300 inhabitants, and the family lives in the country just outside of the town. We were greeted by a very enthusiastic brindle Boxer named Roxie. Soon, we were joined by Mathieu's parents, Thierry and Muriel. We liked them immediately. They were very warm and welcoming toward us. With Desmond and Mathieu translating, we were able to converse quite freely. After hugs and kisses all around, we exchanged gifts. We had brought Thierry a bottle of our local elderberry wine from Wyldewood Cellars in Mulvane, KS. For Muriel, we had a little stuffed owl. She collects owls, which is something she and I have in common. Thierry presented Craig a bottle of the local red wine, and Muriel gave me an adorable oil burner in the shape of an owl. It is a charming piece of pottery made at a well known clayworks nearby.

As we sat down to dinner, I admired the beautifully laid table. Everything was perfectly lovely. We began our meal with Kir Royale. It's a drink of champagne mixed with Kir, a liqueur made from cassis, or black currant. It was delightful! I can say that it was the first time I have ever truly enjoyed champagne. As we drank and became better acquainted, we nibbled from a plate of cashews, sausage, and crackers. Next, and with much anticipation by all, the foie gras was presented. Our first! It was served with a basket of toast points and a sweet onion jam. What an amazing start to our meal. It was absolutely wonderful. A sweet white wine was served with the fois gras, which was very good. We were then served a steaming dish of Coquilles St. Jacques. It's a dish of scallops and shrimp in a rich, creamy wine sauce. My goodness! A chablis was poured with this course and with the main course which followed - blanquette de veau, which is a rich stew made from veal and vegetables in a creamy white sauce. It is served over rice and was superb. A basket of bread was passed around during the meal. By this time, we felt as if we couldn't eat another bite, but then came the cheese tray! Five different kinds of cheese; Roquefort, Camembert, Bleu, and two different Chevre, or goat cheese. And a basket of clementines. Since I must restrict my intake of dairy products, I only tasted a few of the cheeses, but Craig really enjoyed them. Thierry carefully explained what each type was and he told us how they are produced. It was very interesting. Last, but not least, we were treated to a homemade tiramisu! It was cool, creamy, and delicious. What a spectacular meal that was! What a truly French experience. Desmond told us later that he had planned to take us to an authentic French restaurant, but after that astounding meal, he knew it would be anticlimactic. 

Ah, the cheese tray!

We really like Mathieu's family. It is plain to see that they are a close and loving group. It was such a fun evening, lingering over that fantastic meal for more than two hours. With Des and Mathieu to translate, the conversation never lagged, and there was no shortage of smiles and laughter. 

We returned to Orléans at midnight. Mathieu was running perilously low on fuel, so we told him just to drop us at the tram stop. Once there, we discovered that it was closed for the night. It was no problem, though. We simply followed the tracks to our hotel. It was a brisk 15-20 minute walk and we felt perfectly safe in doing so.

The Best-Laid Plans

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, February. 22, 2009. 

We had set our alarm for 7:30 so that we could return to the Eiffel Tower to take the elevator to the top for some spectacular views of Paris. The lines there are often a three-hour wait and we had hoped to beat the crowd. However, when the alarm went off, we all sort of just mumbled and then went right back to sleep, not awakening again until 9:30! So much for getting up early. Desmond and I dressed quickly and then slipped out of the hotel and down the charming cobblestone street to a cafe where we purchased a couple of coffees and a hot chocolate which we took back to the room. After finishing our hot drinks, we packed and then carted our luggage to the reception area where it was stowed until our return. We still had some exploring to do! 

We set off in the direction of the Eiffel Tower, stopping at a lovely patisserie along the way. Des and I chose pain au chocolat, while Craig picked out a beautiful pomme-filled pastry that had a lovely leaf design cut into the flaky, golden crust. The pastries were heavenly, melt-in-your-mouth good. Upon reaching the Eiffel Tower, we decided to forgo the long lines to the top and instead went down to the Batobus, which is a popular water-taxi. For a nominal fee, we purchased tickets and were soon on board, slowly cruising down the Seine, admiring the historic, architectural wonders before us. Tickets for the Batobus allow one to hop on and off at various stops along the Seine. We passed Notre Dame before choosing to disembark at the Louvre, though due to time constraints, we knew that we would not be able to tour any part of the museum. We entered the glass pyramid and navigated our way through the milling throng to ride the escalator down to the gift shop, where we browsed a bit. Then it was back onto the boat to return to our starting point. 

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, 

as seen from the Batobus on the Seine.

Walking once again beneath the Eiffel Tower, we were amused by the many entertainers performing there. Mimes, musicians, and the like were in abundance. Some of them were quite talented. We avoided the more unsavory characters and continued on our way. We returned to the hotel for our luggage and were soon in a taxi on the way to Gare D'Austerlitz, one of several train stations in Paris. After a quick coffee in the busy station, we wrestled our luggage (well, Desmond and Craig did) onto the crowded train. With some difficulty, we managed to find three seats together in a compartment and thoroughly enjoyed our first smooth, quiet ride on an electric train. If you are going to Orléans, it is best to choose a train which does not terminate in Fleury Les-Aubrais. Otherwise, you must catch another train for the short hop to Orléans Centre or trundle your bags onto a tram.

Our hotel, the Ibis, was almost directly across from the train station, so no taxi was needed. Our room was clean and bright and had a roomy bathroom with a large tub. We were eager to see Desmond's new town, so we simply dropped our bags in the room and headed out again. Orléans is a beautiful place, with lots of incredible old buildings and narrow, picturesque cobblestone streets. I could not stop smiling at the wonder of it all! We found a small Asian restaurant where we had a tasty lunch.

One of the streets leading to Desmond's apartment.

Desmond's little apartment in the ancient part of town, near a 600-year-old church, was just as I had pictured it. He had given us such good descriptions of everything, I almost felt as if I had been there before. His desk-sized kitchen and tiny refrigerator had us shaking our heads trying to imagine our son, who loves to cook, preparing meals in that place! The living area consisted of a bed, a chair, and a desk. The room really resembled a dorm room, which is essentially what it was, as the residence is owned by the University of Orléans. Des had perked it up a bit with pretty curtains at the windows and some posters on the walls.

While in Desmond's apartment, we checked email and sent messages to loved ones back home. One of Desmond's friends popped in to say hi before we went to dinner. Des took us to Flunch, which was a very interesting "cafeteria". It was much like any other cafeteria-type restaurant, except that the food is displayed in lovely, ornate, silver casserole dishes and colorful ceramic tureens rather than the boxy industrial stainless steel pans that we have in America. Our meal was surprisingly good. I enjoyed the seafood dish which was prepared in a creamy wine sauce, and the dessert crepes were tasty as well. Though it was still early when we finished, we were very tired and were happy to return to our hotel where we settled in for the night.