Time for Me to Fly

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: April 13, 2015

My long-awaited travel day had finally arrived! After a short flight and a long layover on Sunday from Wichita to Chicago, I boarded the Boeing 767 for Paris. Imagine my delight when I discovered that I had no seat-mates! It was a first for me to be able to spread out and relax on an overnight flight. I was even able to sleep for a couple of hours, curled on the seats in warm socks and cuddling my own comfy travel pillow. As the plane approached Paris, the clouds thinned and I had a lovely glimpse the beautiful countryside below.

Approaching Paris. 

The terminal was surprisingly uncrowded that morning. I was able to retrieve my luggage quickly and easily. Upon entering the arrivals area, I spotted Desmond, who was grinning from ear to ear, as I was. It was so good to see him again! After hugs, kisses, and a few happy tears, we were soon on our way to Orléans. The weather was gorgeous, sunny and cool, as we sped south.

I loved the new apartment! It's on an upper floor, which allows for cool breezes and better security. It is truly a comfortable home and even though Desmond had been living there only a short time, it was already nicely furnished and filled with good vibes. I loved the layout, with the two bedrooms being separated by a large entryway, kitchen, bath, and the living area. There were colorful pots of herbs on the wide windowsills, and even some cherry tomato plants! 

Colorful pots of herbs on the windowsill.

The guest room, which is also Desmond's office, was quite roomy and had a view of a small tree-lined square and several half-timbered buildings. A bar/cafe, a bakery, and other shops are just steps away. The river is very close, though it can't actually be seen from the windows. We stowed my luggage in the room and went out in search of a bite to eat. As we approached the cafe, we noticed a couple of friends, Fanny and Ficus, having lunch there! We pulled over another table and enjoyed our lunch as we visited with them. 

The charming views from my window.

The food at the cafe was very good. Des ordered the plat du jour, which was fragrant, herb-roasted chicken and potatoes accompanied by a zucchini gratin and ratatouille. I opted for the croque monsieur, which was served with fries and a salad. Des had to leave for work soon after our meal, but I walked across the Loire to a market for fresh vegetables and continued on to the artisan bakery for some rustic chestnut-apple-walnut bread. It was wonderful to be strolling along those familiar cobblestone streets once again. I felt very much at home. I finished my shopping with a visit to the French Coffee shop, where I relaxed over a tasty coffee creation before meandering back toward home. 

Rue de Borgogne, one of my favorite streets in Orléans.

After Desmond returned, we worked happily in the kitchen, where we roasted veggies and toasted the fresh bread. The bread was then spread with herbed goat cheese, layered with vegetables, and topped with thinly sliced ham. It was a simple and delicious meal that we all relished. I had brought Azur some kitty treats from America and began a nightly ritual with him of "foreign" food and pats from his cat-loving guest. Later, Des had papers to grade and I was worn out from traveling, so I went to bed early. I don't think I ever stopped smiling, even in my sleep.

My blue-eyed buddy, Azur, saying good night.

Savoring Paris

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, May 3, 2013

Craig and I awoke early and lingered over our coffee and pastries, reluctant to begin packing. Desmond  arrived to help us with the luggage and as we were stowing the last few items, he kindly washed the dishes. We left our little home-away-from-home and as we were walking out, Pascal and Nathalie arrived with a parting gift of a bottle of local wine. We chatted for a bit about our adventures and our love for the area, and then we snapped a few photos of each other before leaving. The tram wasn't crowded at that hour, and we made it to the train station easily.

The train to Paris was what we Midwesterner's would call a "milk run". It stopped at every village along the way. We didn't mind, as we were not in a hurry. When we finally arrived at Gare d'Austerlitz, we had no trouble getting a taxi for the ride to the hotel. We were staying once again at the Grand Hotel Leveque on the charming pedestrian street of Rue Cler. The drive through the streets of Paris was very nice. I never tire of looking at the beautiful architecture. Trees were beginning to leaf out and flowers were blooming everywhere. April in Paris. A dream-come-true.

You can just make out the Eiffel Tower, upper right, 
behind these lovely buildings.

Our chambre on the 4th floor was ready, but it took two trips in the tiny lift to get all of our bags up there. The room had been recently redecorated and was quite attractive; it had a clean, modern bathroom. We opened the windows to enjoy the sights and sounds of Rue Cler before setting out to explore. There was a bakery on the corner which had a great selection of quiche, sandwiches and other savory items, so we sat down and ordered a quick lunch. I really enjoyed the tomato and onion tart I had chosen.

The view from our room at the Grand Hotel Leveque.

We began our stroll once again, enjoying the hustle and bustle of Paris as we walked the few blocks to the Eiffel Tower. A strange sight greeted us as we approached the lofty structure. There were several huge girders standing straight up beneath the tower and reaching to the first level. Signage indicated that these steel posts were temporary, as solar panels were being installed on the tower. It was a relief to know that they would be soon be disassembled, because they certainly detracted from the beauty of the iconic Tour Eiffel.

Ah, Paris! I wish I could put you in my pocket!

There were the usual long lines of tourists waiting for access to the elevators and the stairs, but we passed them by and wandered to the banks of the Seine where we crossed the bridge to the Trocadero. From there, we had expansive views of the Eiffel Tower and the Seine. For once, we were not accosted by con artists and beggars. In fact, we saw very few street people anywhere. We did buy a handful of keychains from a young man who was apparently unlicensed, because he seemed very nervous, and bolted when a security guard appeared.

The view from Trocadero.

We continued along the banks of the Seine, crossing another bridge and hoping to find the famous bookstalls of the bouquinistes. We had visited them on a previous occasion and enjoyed browsing there. However, we soon discovered that the walk would have been longer than our tired feet could manage, so we turned once again toward Rue Cler. We popped into a few souvenir shops along the way, and also visited a couple of small grocery markets. I wanted to find some duck mousse and some pork rillettes to take back to the U.S. Before long, we were back at the hotel. We rested for a bit, and then Desmond and I set out together. We enjoyed looking around in the markets and stores. We also scoped out the area for possible restaurants for our evening meal. Prices are very high on Rue Cler, so we explored a few of the side streets and found a couple of promising places.

A lovely flower stall on Rue Cler.

When Craig was ready to go out again, we chose to dine at a charming brasserrie called "Au Gros Calliou". As it was still a bit early for dinner, the restaurant was not crowded. We had a very nice waitress who brought us menus printed in English, though we all decided to order from the little blackboard menu with the specials chalked upon it. For starters, Des ordered the caprese salad, while Craig and I both chose onion soup. It was scrumptious! Our main course arrived - we had all chosen steak, with rib-eye for Craig and Desmond, and flank steak with sauteed shallots for me. The steaks were accompanied by a basket of bread, salad with a vinaigrette, and the best fries I have ever tasted in my life. I don't usually finish all of my fries, but they were so good I could not leave them alone. The herbed mayo to dip them in was an added treat. Then came the dessert: mousse au chocolat for Des, and the creme brulee for Craig and myself. Even though we were stuffed, we somehow managed to spoon up every rich, creamy bite.

We strolled leisurely back to the hotel, where we rested a bit before setting out once again for the Eiffel Tower. We arrived just as the sun was sinking, and settled ourselves on the cool grass. We had found a little fence on which to lean against as we watched the Eiffel Tower begin to glow. There were quite a few people who had spread blankets on the grass and were enjoying a picnic or just a glass of wine. Several men were walking about in the twilight, selling wine for 4 Euros a bottle, but we declined. The three of us lingered, taking in the sights, until we began to feel chilled. With one last, lingering look at the Eiffel Tower, we turned and made our way back to the hotel.

The Eiffel Tower at twilight.

Au Revoir, Orléans; Bonjour, Paris!

The holidays are over, Desmond has returned to France, and all of us are getting back into the routine of everyday life. The following story is from March 2011, as I continue to chronicle my past journal entries into this blog. 

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: March 11, 2011

Our time here in France was speeding by. We checked out of the Jackotel, stowed our luggage in Desmond's apartment, and went shopping. Des was at work, so Craig and I were on our own. We wandered in and out of the quaint shops in Orléans, purchasing treasures to take home. At midday, we found a little place for lunch on a backstreet near Halles Chatelet. It turned out to be a sports bar, complete with numerous screens showing sports events and with many spectators/bettors; all men. I was the only woman in the place, excluding the waitresses. There was no menu board, and we struggled a bit to explain that we simply wanted a sandwich and a soft drink. A man came over to help us, saying "I speak English", but honestly, I think those WERE the only English words he knew. He somehow managed to convey that he thought I was beautiful and that Craig's mustache was crooked. To our great relief, he was soon led away by another customer.

We returned to Desmond's place and found that he had not yet eaten. We accompanied him to a sandwich shop, where Craig and I enjoyed pastries while the our son had lunch. I tried my first macaron, which was crazy good, and Craig had a luscious strawberries and cream tart.

It's time to leave Orleans again.

Then it was time for Desmond to pack. We made it to the train station with twenty minutes to spare, and even though the train was a long one, we were unable to find any empty seats. We stood for quite a while, until at last someone disembarked at Etampe. Upon arriving in Paris, we soon located our hotel, the Ibis Montmartre. The room is good-sized and has a bathroom that we can actually move around in. We look forward to sightseeing tomorrow. 

Oops!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, March 10, 2011

Craig and I had planned to arise early for a day trip to Chambord, since Desmond would be at work all day, but I had forgotten to set the alarm. With the shutters closed, our room was quite dark and we didn't wake until 11:00! We were very disappointed, but set out to make the most of our extra day in Orléans. 

We decided to do a bit of shopping and took the tram across town to Auchan. There, we ate lunch at Flunch, which is next door to the mega-market. We managed to order without holding up the line too badly. I like the way you can choose your salad, main course, and dessert and then have as many side dishes as you wish. No one ever goes away hungry! 

In Auchan, we wandered the aisles, looking for items to take back to the U.S. I found some wonderful scented soaps and a fabulous tea that was soon to become my favorite. We also put together a tool box for Des. He didn't own even the most basic of household tools and was badly in need of those things. 

On our way back to the hotel, we stopped in at the wonderful little bakery at Halles Chatelet and picked up some pastries to enjoy with our afternoon coffee. The caramel eclair I chose was one of the best pastries I have ever tasted! Craig liked it, too, and he also ate a bouchon, which was like a baba au rhum without the custard. Why can't we find such delights back home? 

What to choose?

After Desmond was finished with work for the day, his friend Mathieu picked us up. We crowded into Matt's little car for the two-hour drive to Bitry, where we would have dinner with his family. This was something we were very much looking forward to, as we had dined with them in the past and had a wonderful time. 

It was twilight when we arrived. We were immediately greeted by two very enthusiastic Boxer dogs. We had met Roxy on our previous visit, and were now being introduced to her half-grown pup, Rouky. Mathieu's parents, Muriel and Thierry, and younger brother Gregoire were soon welcoming us back into their home. After greetings and kisses all around, we were ushered into the dining room, where the table was set with a beautiful floral arrangement surrounded by charming accents of wooden mushrooms and nuts. The meal began with champagne which was mixed with a green apple liqueur. This was something I had never tried before and I really liked it. We nibbled from small dishes of cashews, olives, crackers, and some hot, delicious little puff pastry appetizers which were filled with a variety of flavors from tomato to salmon. 

Thierry pours the wine as we begin our delightful meal.

We had begun a lively discussion of the days events as we moved on to the next course. A large tureen of Pot au Feu was brought to the table. Muriel ladled up servings of vegetables in a rich, beef broth fragrant with herbs. As before, a different wine was served with almost every course. We slowly savored our soup as we talked and told them of our misfortune of having overslept and missed our trip to the castle.

Next, Thierry brought out from the kitchen a large platter of the tender beef which had been cooked with the vegetables. This was served with a flavorful, dark rustic bread, honey mustard, and fresh butter from Brittany. It was scrumptious! I really didn't feel that I could eat another bite when the cheese course was served. Since I am supposed to limit my intake of dairy products, I only nibbled a tiny bit of the cheese, but Craig certainly enjoyed it. 

It's cheese feast!

Last, but certainly not least, Mathieu came walking into the room with a lovely raspberry-cream cake which had a candle stuck in the center! Everyone began to sing "Happy Birthday" to Craig, much to his surprise. Our travel day had been his birthday, so we had not had a chance to celebrate it, and he was touched by their thoughtful gesture. They had gifts for both of us - a bottle of Muscat, a cute pizza serving set, and a huge bag of walnuts from their own tree; a tree which they had brought from Brittany years ago. Those were the best-tasting walnuts ever!

It was as delicious as it was beautiful!

It was such a wonderful evening, and we will never forget the warmth and hospitality shown to us. I am grateful that Desmond and Mathieu translated so well and so rapidly for all of us. Our conversation had flowed very smoothly, and it seemed as if we were all speaking the same language. 

RECIPE: Here is a version of Pot au Feu made in a crock pot.
  

Another Sad Goodbye

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, July 22, 2009

We returned to the hotel after our visit to Versailles, in need of a rest and a cool shower. We were to meet some friends of Desmond's for dinner that evening in the area of the Bastille. When we arrived at the Metro stop near our destination, we came up out of the ground into a thunderstorm, which is not a common occurrence in that part of France. I am leery of lightning and prefer to stay inside away from danger, but people were standing there gawking at the lightning as if it were a fireworks display, complete with ooohs and aaahs! 

The Colonne de Juillet,
commemorating the revolution of 1830.

I don't recall the name of the brasserie at which we dined; it was a crowded, charming place with great food. It was nice to meet and converse with Xavier and Bérengère. We started our meal with drinks, and I had wanted to order a Pecheresse, which is a delightful, peach-flavored beer introduced to me by Des. I had to settle for something else, and so I chose a Desperados, which is a mixture of beer and tequila, served with a wedge of lime. My meal consisted of a steak with Bearnaise sauce, salad, and some incredible fries. The steak, of course, was not as tender as Kansas beef, but it was very flavorful. The grand finale was a dessert of crème brûlée, the first I had ever tasted. And it was wonderful! I'm glad that Desmond and Megan shared it with me, though, because it was more than I could have eaten. 

And so ended our last evening in France. It was late when we returned to the hotel, but we did most of our packing then. We were up at 6 AM the next morning for our drive to the airport, where we breakfasted one last time on the usual, delicious flaky pastries and divine coffee. It was difficult to say goodbye to that beautiful country and I wondered when I would be able to return.

Poulet Roti

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, February. 27, 2009

Desmond arrived midmorning and we headed out to Auchan to buy groceries for him, but first stopped in Flunch for a quick breakfast. No shopping on an empty stomach, right? I enjoyed my tasty trio of beignets - plain, raspberry filled, and chocolate filled. Des chose a marbled chocolate and coconut tart. Craig ordered a triple fruit tart which was made with apple, raspberry, and rhubarb atop a layer of custard.  It was such a fun experience to walk around in a large French superstore. The prices were interesting, with some items much higher than I though they would be. For example, a little plastic basket with suction cups for the shower: 11 Euros! Many other items were much less than I had expected, such as a baguette for 37 cents, a big bag of onions for 1 euro, and a large jar of jam for 50 cents. That same jam is imported to the U.S., where it sells for nearly $5 a jar! Anyway, it was fun. We went back to Desmond's apartment to put everything away.

We visited this park, which is built atop a movie theater.

A nice view from the rooftop park 

We then wandered around Orléans for a while, stopping to see a little park near Desmond's apartment. It is unique in that it is built atop a movie theater. There were nice views from up there and I could see just how beautiful it would be just a little further into spring. 

We spent some time on the banks of the Loire, before finally heading back toward our hotel. We made a quick stop at a market, where we purchased a golden brown, crisp, rotisserie chicken and some chips and fruit to eat in our room. Now, let me tell you about that chicken! In France, you will often see the rotisserie chickens (poulet roti) in wheeled, glass ovens out on the sidewalk in front of a shop. The plump birds roasting on their slow-turning spits send enticing aromas wafting up and down the street. You will be tempted to buy one of those chickens even if you aren't hungry! Below the spits, you will often see a pan heaped with cubed potatoes which are being continually basted with the savory, fragrant drippings from the meat cooking above. In the hotel room, we tore into the juicy chicken with our bare hands, as not one of us had remembered that we would have need of utensils! It was a tasty and memorable meal, as we talked and laughed, using some of my precious washcloths as napkins. The chicken was amazingly delicious and tender. The chips were like a cross between Munchos and Chipsters and were shaped like little smiling ghosts or monsters. The grandkids would love them! In fact, they were called "Monster Chips". I had purchased a bottle of Coke - the first one I had tried in France. I had forgotten that Des once told me how much better the soft drinks taste here, because they are made with sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup. I could really taste the difference. When we finished our indoor picnic, we walked across the street to the train station to purchase our tickets to Paris. Our trip was beginning to draw to a close.

Craig and Des enjoy a quiet moment beside the Loire.

TRAVEL TIP: You may want to pack some of your own washcloths when traveling to France. They are not provided in many hotels. The French prefer to use bath mitts, but I have yet to find one in a hotel there.

A Dinner in Burgundy

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009

Perhaps Craig and I are getting over our jet lag. We didn't oversleep this morning! Desmond had some business at school, so we were on our own for a while. We enjoyed coffee in our room, and polished off the pain au chocolat from yesterday. We wandered back over to the little mall near the train station and strolled through many of the stores, but didn't buy much of anything. When Des returned at noon, We found a cafe where Craig and Des enjoyed fluffy omelettes while I munched on a croque monsieur, which is the French version of a grilled cheese sandwich. After our meal, we browsed in some of the shops downtown. We went into FNAC, where with my son's coaching, I was able to ask for some accordion music on CD. Des then took us into Halles Chatelet, where his favorite bakery is located and we were simply blown away by the enticing array of delightful creations on display. Everything there was a miniature work of art. Craig and I were unable to resist the eclairs. He chose one with a coffee-flavored filling, while I selected a caramel one. They were both fantastic! I wished I could take some of that deliciousness back home with me. 

Soon, it was time to return to the hotel to freshen up for our dinner that evening with the family of one of Desmond's friends, Mathieu. Matt met us at the hotel, and we all crammed ourselves into his tiny car for the two-hour drive to an old farmhouse in Burgundy, near Bitry, where the family lived. We followed the Loire to Gien, where we got out to take a break. What a charming town! It is simply beautiful. We found a bakery, of course, and each chose a cookie to munch while exploring. We walked up many stone steps to the Chateau which dominates the town. There is a panoramic view from up there, of the river and the town. I would love to do some exploring in Gien someday. It has a famous pottery factory and of course, a museum in the Chateau. 

A view of the rooftops of Gien, 
where the Loire flows through town.

As we made our way back down to where the car was parked, we heard tinkling music and lots of childish laughter and soon came upon the source of it: a small ice skating rink had been set up in town, and there were several children ice skating or being pushed around in little sled-like chairs. 

It looks like fun!

We continued on toward Bitry, enjoying the pleasant views of countryside dotted with old stone houses, meandering streams, and forested land. The twilight lasted until we pulled into the driveway of the old farmhouse in which Mathieu's family lives. Bitry is a village of about 300 inhabitants, and the family lives in the country just outside of the town. We were greeted by a very enthusiastic brindle Boxer named Roxie. Soon, we were joined by Mathieu's parents, Thierry and Muriel. We liked them immediately. They were very warm and welcoming toward us. With Desmond and Mathieu translating, we were able to converse quite freely. After hugs and kisses all around, we exchanged gifts. We had brought Thierry a bottle of our local elderberry wine from Wyldewood Cellars in Mulvane, KS. For Muriel, we had a little stuffed owl. She collects owls, which is something she and I have in common. Thierry presented Craig a bottle of the local red wine, and Muriel gave me an adorable oil burner in the shape of an owl. It is a charming piece of pottery made at a well known clayworks nearby.

As we sat down to dinner, I admired the beautifully laid table. Everything was perfectly lovely. We began our meal with Kir Royale. It's a drink of champagne mixed with Kir, a liqueur made from cassis, or black currant. It was delightful! I can say that it was the first time I have ever truly enjoyed champagne. As we drank and became better acquainted, we nibbled from a plate of cashews, sausage, and crackers. Next, and with much anticipation by all, the foie gras was presented. Our first! It was served with a basket of toast points and a sweet onion jam. What an amazing start to our meal. It was absolutely wonderful. A sweet white wine was served with the fois gras, which was very good. We were then served a steaming dish of Coquilles St. Jacques. It's a dish of scallops and shrimp in a rich, creamy wine sauce. My goodness! A chablis was poured with this course and with the main course which followed - blanquette de veau, which is a rich stew made from veal and vegetables in a creamy white sauce. It is served over rice and was superb. A basket of bread was passed around during the meal. By this time, we felt as if we couldn't eat another bite, but then came the cheese tray! Five different kinds of cheese; Roquefort, Camembert, Bleu, and two different Chevre, or goat cheese. And a basket of clementines. Since I must restrict my intake of dairy products, I only tasted a few of the cheeses, but Craig really enjoyed them. Thierry carefully explained what each type was and he told us how they are produced. It was very interesting. Last, but not least, we were treated to a homemade tiramisu! It was cool, creamy, and delicious. What a spectacular meal that was! What a truly French experience. Desmond told us later that he had planned to take us to an authentic French restaurant, but after that astounding meal, he knew it would be anticlimactic. 

Ah, the cheese tray!

We really like Mathieu's family. It is plain to see that they are a close and loving group. It was such a fun evening, lingering over that fantastic meal for more than two hours. With Des and Mathieu to translate, the conversation never lagged, and there was no shortage of smiles and laughter. 

We returned to Orléans at midnight. Mathieu was running perilously low on fuel, so we told him just to drop us at the tram stop. Once there, we discovered that it was closed for the night. It was no problem, though. We simply followed the tracks to our hotel. It was a brisk 15-20 minute walk and we felt perfectly safe in doing so.

A Dream Realized

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: February 21, 2009 

It was Saturday, February 21, 2009 when I got my first glimpse of Paris. I couldn't believe that we had truly arrived! It was was like a fairy tale to me. Our son's move to France had created a void in our lives. He is the baby of the family, and we had suddenly become empty-nesters! It was quite an adjustment. Craig and I had quickly decided that his year of study abroad was our golden opportunity to visit the land of my dreams. We naively thought that we would never get another chance like this. It was very exciting to be making plans for our visit. Our first step, of course, was to obtain our passports. I highly recommend that if you ever entertain even the merest thought of taking a trip outside your country of residence, get your passport early! Fortunately, we had allowed plenty of time, because my passport failed due to a clerical error and I had to begin the process all over again. But at last our plans were made, passports had arrived, our hotels were reserved, and plane tickets purchased. We were really, truly, GOING TO FRANCE!

March is not the optimal time of year to visit France. Especially early March. But due to work schedules and other concerns, this was determined to be the best time for us to get away. The two flights were uneventful, which was wonderful, since I am a nervous flyer. The longest flight I had experienced before this journey was an 8 1/2 hour trip between Honolulu and Dallas. The 10 hour flight to Paris was mind-numbing. (It numbed other parts of our anatomies as well!) We had both attempted to sleep on the plane, but neither of us had much luck in that endeavor. Desmond had planned to meet us in Paris, where we would do a bit of sightseeing before making our way to Orléans . Upon landing at Charles de Gaulle airport it was wonderful to see his smiling face and to immediately be steered toward an airport cafe where we experienced our first French pastries and coffee. The café crème was a delight! And don't let the cream fool you into thinking this was a wimpy, watered-down cup of java. It was strong, and provided just the jolt my jet-lagged system needed. 

We were soon on our way to the center of Paris! The drive from the airport was a bit congested. The view - well, I may as well have been back home in Wichita! The scenery was your typical industrial park view of factories and office buildings. However, my disappointment soon dissolved into delight as we began to enter the outskirts of the venerable old city. The architecture rapidly changed, and soon we were truly in Paris! We crossed a river OMG THE SEINE! and then, as the taxi rounded a corner, there before us stood the Arc de Triomphe! I literally had tears in my eyes as I realized that my dream had indeed come true. I was so completely in awe of everything around me, that I forgot to take pictures! I did manage to snap a quick photo of the famous monument before we turned toward the street on which our hotel was located. I had researched Paris hotels in our price range, and had settled on the Grand Hotel Leveque, which is located on the popular pedestrian street of Rue Cler, a beautiful cobblestone avenue that is lined with cafes, restaurants, shops, and hotels. We happily settled into our triple room, which even had a large bathroom (I had been warned many times in articles and blogs to beware the tiny Parisian bathrooms). After a short rest, we set out to explore the City of Light. 

The Arc de Triomphe. My first photo of Paris.

Le Grand Hotel Leveque in Paris

A view on Rue Cler from our hotel window.

Travel Tip: Carry a purse or bag that can be worn cross-body. Your bag will be much more secure, and you will have your hands free for taking photos.