Bring on the Barbecue (and a dash of Culture)

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: April 19, 2015

Once again, I awoke to another to another glorious spring day in France! Happiness and contentment washed over me as I made my bed and opened the shutters to the morning sunshine. After a cup of coffee to further brighten my day, Desmond and I walked over to the market to purchase items for a lunchtime barbecue. We also picked up some pastries for breakfast. I chose a Paris Brest, and even though it came from the supermarket and not a patisserie, it was still pretty good. I love that toasted hazelnut flavor.

Paris Brest, a delightful toasted hazelnut pastry.

Chris and Mathilde were expected for lunch, so we spent a bit of time straightening the house. Desmond and I assembled the barbecue grill and carried it and a bag of charcoal down the stairs to the courtyard below. That charcoal was not in the form of tightly compressed bricks like we use at home. It was in the natural wood shapes, which meant that some of the smaller pieces kept dropping through the grate. Des made a tray of aluminum foil, into which he poked holes for ventilation. We piled the charcoal back on and managed to ignite it with no trouble. When our guests arrived, we put the marinated pork steaks onto the grill and as they began to sizzle we sat down to have a beer and some chips, but we soon discovered that the coals were out. I had neglected to open the bottom draft! Desmond and I took the steaks upstairs to cook. At least they had been over the charcoal long enough to acquire that smoky flavor we liked. Meanwhile, Chris had managed to get the coals going again and had put the sausages on to cook. When everything was ready, we sat down to a feast of tender pork steaks, Toulouse sausages, roasted potatoes, and broccoli raisin salad. Everything was quite tasty and we enjoyed visiting around the table as we passed the dishes around for seconds. We finished the meal off with refreshing ginger floats. 

After Mathilde and Chris had departed, we spent a pleasant hour talking to Craig. Then it was time to leave for an afternoon concert, which featured music played on a beautiful antique harpsichord. Desmond had been tutoring English to the talented musician of that instrument, Beatrice, who teaches at Julliard. She was accompanied by her husband on the violin, and there were two other musicians as well. One woman played a cello and the other sang. They did many numbers together, and though I did not recognize most of the compositions, I enjoyed the concert immensely. 

Leaving the music hall, we went out to dinner at a sushi restaurant. I am not a big fan of sushi, but there were many other delectable items on the menu. I was quite happy with the dumplings, sweet fried noodles, and cheese maki. We watched a movie after we returned home. All in all, it had been a fun and relaxing day.



Travel Tip: If you take prescription medication, it is a good idea to pack a paper copy of your prescription. It will be much easier to get the prescription filled should you need to. Make sure you also have your doctor's name and phone number.

Time for Me to Fly

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: April 13, 2015

My long-awaited travel day had finally arrived! After a short flight and a long layover on Sunday from Wichita to Chicago, I boarded the Boeing 767 for Paris. Imagine my delight when I discovered that I had no seat-mates! It was a first for me to be able to spread out and relax on an overnight flight. I was even able to sleep for a couple of hours, curled on the seats in warm socks and cuddling my own comfy travel pillow. As the plane approached Paris, the clouds thinned and I had a lovely glimpse the beautiful countryside below.

Approaching Paris. 

The terminal was surprisingly uncrowded that morning. I was able to retrieve my luggage quickly and easily. Upon entering the arrivals area, I spotted Desmond, who was grinning from ear to ear, as I was. It was so good to see him again! After hugs, kisses, and a few happy tears, we were soon on our way to Orléans. The weather was gorgeous, sunny and cool, as we sped south.

I loved the new apartment! It's on an upper floor, which allows for cool breezes and better security. It is truly a comfortable home and even though Desmond had been living there only a short time, it was already nicely furnished and filled with good vibes. I loved the layout, with the two bedrooms being separated by a large entryway, kitchen, bath, and the living area. There were colorful pots of herbs on the wide windowsills, and even some cherry tomato plants! 

Colorful pots of herbs on the windowsill.

The guest room, which is also Desmond's office, was quite roomy and had a view of a small tree-lined square and several half-timbered buildings. A bar/cafe, a bakery, and other shops are just steps away. The river is very close, though it can't actually be seen from the windows. We stowed my luggage in the room and went out in search of a bite to eat. As we approached the cafe, we noticed a couple of friends, Fanny and Ficus, having lunch there! We pulled over another table and enjoyed our lunch as we visited with them. 

The charming views from my window.

The food at the cafe was very good. Des ordered the plat du jour, which was fragrant, herb-roasted chicken and potatoes accompanied by a zucchini gratin and ratatouille. I opted for the croque monsieur, which was served with fries and a salad. Des had to leave for work soon after our meal, but I walked across the Loire to a market for fresh vegetables and continued on to the artisan bakery for some rustic chestnut-apple-walnut bread. It was wonderful to be strolling along those familiar cobblestone streets once again. I felt very much at home. I finished my shopping with a visit to the French Coffee shop, where I relaxed over a tasty coffee creation before meandering back toward home. 

Rue de Borgogne, one of my favorite streets in Orléans.

After Desmond returned, we worked happily in the kitchen, where we roasted veggies and toasted the fresh bread. The bread was then spread with herbed goat cheese, layered with vegetables, and topped with thinly sliced ham. It was a simple and delicious meal that we all relished. I had brought Azur some kitty treats from America and began a nightly ritual with him of "foreign" food and pats from his cat-loving guest. Later, Des had papers to grade and I was worn out from traveling, so I went to bed early. I don't think I ever stopped smiling, even in my sleep.

My blue-eyed buddy, Azur, saying good night.

Tours (France) Continued

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 18, 2014

Before continuing with "A Tour of Tours", I must take a moment to mention a couple of my favorite blogs. Lynn McBride, over at Southern Fried French, is an expat hailing from South Carolina who writes charmingly of her life in southern Burgundy. Her wonderful blog is filled with recipes, anecdotes and some fabulous photography. I recently purchased her book "How to Learn a New Language with a Used Brain" and have hopes of learning French. At the age of 62, my brain is certainly "used"! I also recommend that you take a look at French Word a Day, by Kristin Espinasse, an expat from Arizona who now resides in Provence. She, too, writes of her life in France and is also a published author. With the help of her husband and children, Kristin introduces French words and phrases that tie into the theme of each post. She offers stories, recipes and lovely photography along with a few life lessons as well. And now, back to April 18 in Tours...

We met Desmon's colleague and friend, Erica, at la Place Plumereau at the appointed time. Erica had not lived in Tours for very long and was still becoming acquainted with the city. We began walking toward the university, which is situated along the Loire. There is a lovely pathway beside the river. We followed her as she walked briskly into the library and continued onto an elevator which whisked us upstairs to the roof. We were treated to a sweeping view over the rooftops of Tours. From that vantage point, we could see for miles.

The rooftops of Tours, France.

 A closer view. I love the ivy-covered house!

We continued exploring, with Erica narrating our walk, and eventually found ourselves at Les Halles, a large, covered marketplace. We were all eager to go inside and have a look, as even Erica had not visited it before. It reminded me of Halles Chatelet in Orléans, though larger and with a much wider variety of shops. There were several enticing shops offering carry-out, and of course, patisseries, boulangeries, fromageries, and so on. I wanted to purchase some of the famous Tours rillettes, and soon had a jar of the tasty terrine wrapped in paper and tucked into a little bag.

All I need now is a glass of wine and a crusty baguette!

We had hoped that Erica could join us for lunch, but she had a previous engagement. As we walked with her toward the tram stop, we learned that the Tram de Tours had only been in operation for about six months. Unfortunately, it wasn't convenient for us at that time, because we had decided to turn back the way we had come in order to find a place for our midday meal. We had a difficult time deciding; there so many cafes, restaurants and brasseries from which to choose! Finding ourselves back at Place Plumereau, we were approached by the proprietor of a British-style pub who was so friendly and persuasive that we couldn't resist. We elected to dine inside for a change, and were charmed by the interior. The pub was much larger than it appeared from the street, and we were soon seated at a roomy booth toward the back. The old stone walls were warm and inviting; the leaded glass windows provided us with a view of a side street bustling with tourists. I ordered the croque monsieur, which was served with a side salad, while Des opted for a planche, which was really something! He had not expected so much food, but did his best to finish it. 

A traditional croque Monsieur.

 The planche looked like a tasty choice.

TRAVEL TIP: Before your trip, use Google street view to "walk" around the neighborhoods of potential places to stay. You will be able to see if there are restaurants, a pharmacy, a bakery, and attractions within walking distance. Cyber-walk to the nearest metro stop or taxi stand. You won't feel disoriented when you actually arrive.

Crepe-making Lessons

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal:  April 13, 2014

That Sunday, we awoke to another beautiful spring morning. We didn't have big plans for the day, but were content to just linger over our coffee before we set out to find pastries. I don't expect to be constantly entertained by Desmond. I have never been one to cram my vacation days full of activities. I prefer a more relaxed pace. I enjoy exploring and becoming familiar with the area in which I find myself. We wandered around in the sunshine after breakfast, eventually climbing a staircase to the small park atop the movie theater near the Loire. It's a sweet little place, with a tiny playground and lots of shade. Blooming plants brightened the space and surrounded us with their fragrance.

Looking toward the Loire from the park.

Home again, we spent some time on chores, straightening the apartment and washing dishes. I checked my email and sent off a couple of greetings to family back home. As lunchtime drew near, we decided to walk over to the new restaurant, Oh, Terroir. Des had eaten there on several occasions and knew it would be something I'd enjoy. Oh, Terroir specializes in healthy dishes which are made from locally sourced products. Since the Loire valley is such a fertile and abundant place, I knew I was in for a treat. After you step inside the restaurant, you select your meal using the computerized screens. You first choose a base of half-grain pasta, quinoa, lentils, or spelt. Your next step is to choose a topping and any other added ingredients from the many choices on offer. You can also select a beverage and dessert at this time. 

Lunch at "Oh, Terroir" was wonderful!

I had heard of spelt, which is an ancient ancestor of wheat, but had never tried it. That was my selection. I had it topped with a light creamy Dijon and ham sauce. It was sprinkled liberally with chives and freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and it was so good that I later attempted to recreate this dish at home. (You'll find the recipe below.) Desmond chose a chicken curry over spelt. We were very pleased. It was a delightful lunch in a lovely setting. The restaurant is decorated in colors of lime, chocolate, and pewter in a very modern style. We sat at a table in the loft, which gave us a nice view both inside and out. If you are ever in the area, you must stop for a meal there. It's quick, reasonably priced, and delicious.

On our way home, we shopped in Halles Chatelet for a few ingredients that we would need to prepare supper that evening. I enjoy shopping there, or just looking around. The grocery market takes up a large space within the mall, with a variety of shops selling everything from fresh fish to macarons. Halles Chatelet was begun in 1882 and was then an open market. The mall was built over the original market site in 1977, with a more recent renovation being done in 2005. 

That night, Desmond's friend Mathieu came over.  We were to receive crepe-making lessons from Desmond, which resulted in a hilarious time and a delightful meal! Mathieu caught on to the process very quickly, but my arthritic wrist made it difficult for me to make a smooth, flat swipe around the pan. Still, they were delicious, even if the crepes weren't shaped exactly right. We had ham, two kinds of cheese, and some caramelized onions to put inside the crepes. We laughed so hard when Mathieu decided to take a shortcut by cracking an egg atop his crepe before folding it over. The egg slowly slid off of the crepe, off of the pan, and then onto the table where it slithered beneath the microwave. We were helpless to stop it; we were laughing too hard! We ended that fun meal with dessert crepes. My favorite was a simple lemon juice and sugar crepe. What a fun evening! 

A savory crepe is actually called a gallette. 

Whatever the name, they were yummy!

RECIPE: Dijon-ham sauce. To recreate the meal I enjoyed at Oh, Terroir, I started by making a simple white sauce, but substituted some chicken broth and white wine for about half the milk. I whisked in some Dijon mustard, about two to three teaspoons per cup of white sauce. I also seasoned it with a bit of salt and pepper, but remember to go easy on the salt if you will be using ham  After the sauce had thickened, I stirred in diced ham and heated the mixture through. I the poured this over half-grain pasta (as I hadn't found spelt berries at that time) and sprinkled the dish liberally with Parmesan cheese and fresh chives. It's a keeper!

Of Pastries and Kings

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal:  April 12, 2014

I awakened early on my first full day in Orléans. I had slept deeply and felt refreshed. I had dozed a bit on the flight over, and had high hopes of avoiding the bleary-eyed fogginess I usually experience. We had coffee together before going out. Desmond had bought a cute set of dishes for me to use. They were in deep pastel colors with flowers and owls on them. I enjoyed drinking my coffee from the cheerful mug. 

Once we were dressed and ready to greet the day, we walked over to Halles Chatelet where we purchased pastries from the little bakery there. We carried our treats to a cafe and ordered coffee to go with them. The raspberry macaron that my son recommended to me was perfection! It was filled with a lightly sweetened, thick cream of some sort. We couldn't figure out exactly what it was. It tasted like a mixture of butter and cream and it was so firm that it cut like butter. The outside edge was studded with large, sweet raspberries. 

Bliss in a raspberry macaron.

Walking through Orléans after breakfast, we did a little window shopping. There are many unique shops there, and as in most French towns, quite a few of the shops specialize in one product. We passed a shop which sells nothing but local honey and honey-related items. The window was charmingly decorated with an enticing array of delights. And the shoe stores! I know I have mentioned them before, but I never cease to be amazed at the number of shoe shops and the variety of footwear they offer. In the U.S. it seems as if every store carries identical merchandise, but these stores have such a bounty of styles and colors! 

We walked on in the spring sunshine, simply taking delight in being outdoors on such a lovely day. We wandered over toward the Hôtel Groslot, which has a beautiful garden in the back. The tulips were especially pretty. Hôtel Groslot is a 15th century mansion which was once used as a town hall and now serves as a lovely place for weddings and civic events. King Francois II died there at the tender age of 16. His royal surgeon had recommended a trepanation to relieve pressure on the brain. This idea was vetoed by the bishop, who stated that no one should ever see into the mind of a king and so the young king died. Or so the story goes. Anyway, the Hôtel Groslot is well worth a visit.

 A back view of the Hôtel Groslot in Orleans, France.

Such lovely gardens!

TRAVEL TIP: Before leaving home, make copies of your passport, drivers license, and credit cards. Carry the copies with you in your luggage or another place separate from the original documents. If your wallet or purse is stolen or lost, you will need the copied items.

Savoring Paris

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, May 3, 2013

Craig and I awoke early and lingered over our coffee and pastries, reluctant to begin packing. Desmond  arrived to help us with the luggage and as we were stowing the last few items, he kindly washed the dishes. We left our little home-away-from-home and as we were walking out, Pascal and Nathalie arrived with a parting gift of a bottle of local wine. We chatted for a bit about our adventures and our love for the area, and then we snapped a few photos of each other before leaving. The tram wasn't crowded at that hour, and we made it to the train station easily.

The train to Paris was what we Midwesterner's would call a "milk run". It stopped at every village along the way. We didn't mind, as we were not in a hurry. When we finally arrived at Gare d'Austerlitz, we had no trouble getting a taxi for the ride to the hotel. We were staying once again at the Grand Hotel Leveque on the charming pedestrian street of Rue Cler. The drive through the streets of Paris was very nice. I never tire of looking at the beautiful architecture. Trees were beginning to leaf out and flowers were blooming everywhere. April in Paris. A dream-come-true.

You can just make out the Eiffel Tower, upper right, 
behind these lovely buildings.

Our chambre on the 4th floor was ready, but it took two trips in the tiny lift to get all of our bags up there. The room had been recently redecorated and was quite attractive; it had a clean, modern bathroom. We opened the windows to enjoy the sights and sounds of Rue Cler before setting out to explore. There was a bakery on the corner which had a great selection of quiche, sandwiches and other savory items, so we sat down and ordered a quick lunch. I really enjoyed the tomato and onion tart I had chosen.

The view from our room at the Grand Hotel Leveque.

We began our stroll once again, enjoying the hustle and bustle of Paris as we walked the few blocks to the Eiffel Tower. A strange sight greeted us as we approached the lofty structure. There were several huge girders standing straight up beneath the tower and reaching to the first level. Signage indicated that these steel posts were temporary, as solar panels were being installed on the tower. It was a relief to know that they would be soon be disassembled, because they certainly detracted from the beauty of the iconic Tour Eiffel.

Ah, Paris! I wish I could put you in my pocket!

There were the usual long lines of tourists waiting for access to the elevators and the stairs, but we passed them by and wandered to the banks of the Seine where we crossed the bridge to the Trocadero. From there, we had expansive views of the Eiffel Tower and the Seine. For once, we were not accosted by con artists and beggars. In fact, we saw very few street people anywhere. We did buy a handful of keychains from a young man who was apparently unlicensed, because he seemed very nervous, and bolted when a security guard appeared.

The view from Trocadero.

We continued along the banks of the Seine, crossing another bridge and hoping to find the famous bookstalls of the bouquinistes. We had visited them on a previous occasion and enjoyed browsing there. However, we soon discovered that the walk would have been longer than our tired feet could manage, so we turned once again toward Rue Cler. We popped into a few souvenir shops along the way, and also visited a couple of small grocery markets. I wanted to find some duck mousse and some pork rillettes to take back to the U.S. Before long, we were back at the hotel. We rested for a bit, and then Desmond and I set out together. We enjoyed looking around in the markets and stores. We also scoped out the area for possible restaurants for our evening meal. Prices are very high on Rue Cler, so we explored a few of the side streets and found a couple of promising places.

A lovely flower stall on Rue Cler.

When Craig was ready to go out again, we chose to dine at a charming brasserrie called "Au Gros Calliou". As it was still a bit early for dinner, the restaurant was not crowded. We had a very nice waitress who brought us menus printed in English, though we all decided to order from the little blackboard menu with the specials chalked upon it. For starters, Des ordered the caprese salad, while Craig and I both chose onion soup. It was scrumptious! Our main course arrived - we had all chosen steak, with rib-eye for Craig and Desmond, and flank steak with sauteed shallots for me. The steaks were accompanied by a basket of bread, salad with a vinaigrette, and the best fries I have ever tasted in my life. I don't usually finish all of my fries, but they were so good I could not leave them alone. The herbed mayo to dip them in was an added treat. Then came the dessert: mousse au chocolat for Des, and the creme brulee for Craig and myself. Even though we were stuffed, we somehow managed to spoon up every rich, creamy bite.

We strolled leisurely back to the hotel, where we rested a bit before setting out once again for the Eiffel Tower. We arrived just as the sun was sinking, and settled ourselves on the cool grass. We had found a little fence on which to lean against as we watched the Eiffel Tower begin to glow. There were quite a few people who had spread blankets on the grass and were enjoying a picnic or just a glass of wine. Several men were walking about in the twilight, selling wine for 4 Euros a bottle, but we declined. The three of us lingered, taking in the sights, until we began to feel chilled. With one last, lingering look at the Eiffel Tower, we turned and made our way back to the hotel.

The Eiffel Tower at twilight.

Day Trippin'

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, May 2, 2013

We were up early again to catch another train. This time, our day trip would take us past Blois to Amboise, where we would visit Château du Clos Lucé. Leonardo da Vinci had resided at Clos Lucé during the last few years of his remarkable life. Desmond had visited before and knew this would be something that both Craig and I would enjoy. The weather was cool and overcast as we arrived, but we had hopes of sunny weather later in the day.

The village of Amboise is absolutely beautiful. We admired the lovely architecture as we ambled along in search of a patisserie for a belated breakfast. We soon found a charming little shop near the river that offered lots of pastries and many different kinds of baguettes and rustic breads. Some of the loaves had been baked with a large hole on one end, and they were hanging from wooden pegs at the counter. I wish I had thought to take a picture. 

After our delightful breakfast, we set off across the bridge spanning the Loire, heading toward Clos Lucé. The view of Château Royal d'Amboise was wonderful, even in the grey light of morning. It looked like a mighty stronghold, towering above the village and the river. We had decided to skip a visit to the castle in order to spend more time at the residence of Leonardo da Vinci. As we walked the cobblestone streets of the town, we passed many charming shops and enticing restaurants. It was a pleasant stroll along pathways lined with trees and flowers in bloom.

Amboise Castle in on a grey morning in May.

It wasn't long before we reached Clos Lucé. The line for entry was not a long one, and soon we were touring the buildings in awe of the man who had dwelt there, and at the beauty of the grounds. The house itself was well furnished and seemed almost homey. The areas in which da Vinci's fascinating inventions are displayed were well-lit and provided information in several languages. It literally gave me goosebumps to see the incredible works this man had created. He invented and/or perfected many of the items we still use today. 

Clos Lucé, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci.

Yes, even the lowly pipe wrench was created by da Vinci.

The expansive grounds are beautifully landscaped and feature many interactive displays with life-sized inventions that are actually operational. The tank, pumps, cannon, flying machine, and everything else was fascinating. There is a lovely stream flowing quietly through the property and there are many groves of moss-covered trees lending shade to scene. The sun had finally made an appearance as we wandered toward the dovecote. The stone structure was a large one which had housed over a thousand doves in their nesting cubbies. A large half-timbered building nearby was once the priory, but had been turned into a restaurant where the staff all wear medieval costume. 

The Priory, which is now a restaurant at Clos Lucé.

We wandered the grounds and toured the buildings for hours. This is a place I could definitely return to. It is simply fascinating. We made our way down to town by a different route, which afforded us some wonderful views of the ancient village below. By the time we had descended, we were more than ready for lunch. We found a table outside at one of the restaurants which faces Amboise Castle and were treated to a stunning view as we dined. We all chose the plat du jour, which happened to be lasagna. But first, we began with a starter. I selected a salad of shredded carrot topped with a delicious orange vinaigrette. Craig and Des asked for the pate, which was served with tiny dill pickles and crusty bread. Our lasagna arrived shortly, and it was fabulous!  

Amboise Castle, a lovely view to accompany lunch.

After that delicious lunch, we wandered the streets for a while, poking around in the shops and finding some nice souvenirs before heading back toward the train station. Once there, we discovered that we had just over an hour to wait before the next train. We walked across the street to a bakery where we indulged in pastries and coffee. Back at the station, we spoke briefly with a very nice couple from Canada who have one daughter living in Lyon, France and another residing in Miami, Florida! And we thought our kids were scattered! 

The weather had turned out to be beautifully sunny and warm. We decided to go for ice cream after returning to Orléans, at one of Desmond's favorite places. I could not believe the variety! Beer ice cream, fois gras ice cream - you name it, they probably made it! I chose something a bit tame - a scoop of lemon and one of dark chocolate. Both flavors were decadent! Craig felt like going back to the apartment for a rest, so Des and I continued on together, talking about our day as we explored some more shops. I found a couple of lovely scarves and other small items. 

That evening, instead of a meal at a restaurant, we chose to go to a bar that is frequented by Desmond and his friends. We ordered a "planche" to go along with our drinks.  A large plank of wood soon arrived at our table, with our "snack" laid out upon it. The food was beautifully arranged and consisted of no less than five different cheeses, ham, dry sausage, blood sausage, apple and orange slices, raisins, pickled onions, dill pickles, pate, and a basket of toast on the side! Wow! It was quite enough for the three of us, though we barely touched the blood sausage. We had such fun, sitting outside in the warm evening air, talking and laughing as we enjoyed our snack. To go with it, Des had suggested that I try the Kriek, a cherry beer. It had just the right amount of sweetness and really hit the spot. It's things like this - just a fun, casual meal with loved ones - that I remember the most.

A planche, which we enjoyed at a bar in Orléans.

Joan of Arc Was Here

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, April 28, 2013

We slept in that morning, and after waking up over several cups of strong, fragrant coffee, we set out to meet Desmond. Even that small thing was a pleasure - walking the few blocks to catch the tram, enjoying the beauty of the morning and the lovely architecture of the old buildings surrounding us. It was a glorious, sunny day and we all welcomed the warmth. We strolled around town, heading toward the Cathedral of St Croix. We stopped at a little bakery along the way, where we bought some sandwiches for an early lunch. We ate them in the open air, sitting beside the fountain across from the magnificent cathedral. After lunch, we had time for a short tour of the structure before we were to meet with Desmond's students. The cathedral was breathtakingly beautiful both inside and out. The high, vaulted ceilings and the intricate stained glass windows were incredible!

A view inside the Cathedral of St Croix in Orleans.

One of the many beautiful stained glass windows.

After the tour, we hopped onto the tram for the half hour ride over to the University of Orléans where we had an enjoyable time visiting with several of Des's students. One of them generously bought coffee for everyone, and another had brought along a paper bag filled with fresh, warm chouquettes, which are little puffs of pastry sparkling with pearl sugar. It was fun chatting with the students as they practiced their English, and I enjoyed learning something about them and the regions or countries from which they had come.

On our way back to the center of town, we stopped at a small market adjacent to the University. Nearby, we saw a sculpture that looked very familiar. It was a smaller version of Blackbear Bosun's "Keeper of the Plains", which stands tall above the river in Wichita, Kansas. This miniature version was a gift from Wichita, which is a sister city to Orléans. 

The Keeper of the Plains, a gift from Wichita.

Here is the original Keeper of the Plains.

Later, we bought a few pastries and took them down to the banks of the Loire, where we sat contentedly in the sun, enjoying our snack. The speculoos eclair I had chosen was delightful. Craig was happy with an apple tart, and Des munched a delicious-looking cherry tart. 

A tasty snack to enjoy by the Loire.

A boat on the Loire in Orléans, France.

We had our evening meal at the Grec Gourmand, where we had dined on previous occasions. The kebab sandwich and fries were tasty and filling. We had a bit of time to kill before the beginning of the Fêtes de Jeanne d'Arc, so we played a game of Phase 10 back at Desmond's apartment. As we were playing, we began to notice many people making their way down to the banks of the Loire. Most of them were wearing medieval costume. Many band members also passed by, and we were soon following them down to the river. It was not quite dark when we reached the water's edge, and we were able to find a good vantage point from which to view the opening ceremony of the festival. There were many soldiers holding torches, and mock battles were taking place along the walk but soon all eyes turned toward the water, as Joan of Arc came sailing across. She disembarked and mounted a beautiful white horse to begin the long procession to the Cathedral. We were swept up in the crowd, and walked along for most of the way, hearing the speeches, but not understanding more than a word or two. As we continued down the Rue de Borgogne, it was fun to see many people almost hanging out of their apartment windows to witness the spectacle below. At one window, I counted at least eight people laughing and jostling for a view. It was a fun evening for all of us.

Waiting for Joan of Arc. 

RECIPE: Honey Peppers
This is a tasty side dish is simple and delicious! Just seed one or two red bell peppers and cut into strips. Saute the strips over medium heat in a mixture of equal parts olive oil and honey until the desired tenderness is achieved. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Serve hot.

I Could Get Used to This!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, April 26, 2013

Whew! Getting there wasn't easy, but Craig and I finally arrived in Orléans Friday afternoon. Our flight out of Wichita was repeatedly delayed (four hours!), which caused us to miss our connection in Chicago. We were put onto a flight to London, and because we sat on the tarmac for an hour, we nearly missed our connection at Heathrow. We had to make a mad dash to the British Airways terminal, where we boarded a flight at the last minute and then, at last - we were in Paris! Of course, we still had the long taxi ride to the train station, and then the hour-long train ride to Orléans. After almost 24 hours of travel, Craig and I were very glad to see Desmond! After an early dinner at an Indian restaurant, we were welcomed to the little apartment we had rented just across the Loire in Orléans.

It had been two years since our last visit. Things were wonderfully familiar to us. It felt as if we were coming home. Speaking of home - the cozy apartment we rented through HomeAway was perfect! It had everything we could possibly need. The living/kitchen area had lots of storage and the tiny kitchen was well equipped. There was a large bathroom with a fantastic shower. The roomy bedroom contained a dresser, an armoire, and a desk, in addition to the very comfortable bed. Our hosts, Pascal and Nathalie, were warm and friendly, and provided us with instructions on how to operate the washer and dryer (how convenient!) and the other appliances. In the kitchen, we found coffee, sugar, tea, hot chocolate, and some candy. Des had brought us a carton of cream and a couple of his homemade muffins, so we were all set for the morning.

This tiny kitchen had everything we needed.

Our cozy bedroom at the apartment we found on HomeAway.

We met up with Desmond first thing the next morning and had breakfast at Paul, near the market where we needed to do a bit of shopping. By the time we had finished our shopping and put our purchases away in our temporary home, it was midday. We walked around a bit, until we spotted a brasserie, and there we had lunch. The croque monsieur I ordered was very good (it's a French version of a grilled ham and cheese sandwich) and Craig seemed to enjoy his delicious ham and cheese omelet, which was served with fries. Desmond ordered the plat du jour, which turned out to be golden-brown roast chicken, fries, and a salad. 

After lunch, with Desmond's friend Matt joining us, we caught a bus into Olivet, where we located the Promenade des Moulins, which is a trail along the Loiret (a river which feeds into the Loire) that still has many old watermills alongside.  Most of them seemed to be inhabited and looked as if they were well cared for. The riverbanks were thick with trees. There are many old, beautiful homes along the river, though they are mostly hidden in the foliage. Many of the homes had elaborate boathouses as well. At one point along the trail, we came upon a breathtakingly beautiful meadow. The sloping ground was thickly carpeted with grass and tiny wildflowers. It resembled a fairyland. 

One of the many old mills along the Promenade des Moulins. 

The weather had turned cool and overcast, and as we continued our walk, a slight breeze sprung up. We turned a corner and were delighted to discover a rustic little building housing a snack bar offering coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and pastries. There were bright, lime green canvas chairs scattered about, but we chose to sit at a log-hewn table with stumps for seating. We rested our feet while we enjoyed the warmth of the hot drinks. A pretty little wooden bridge spanned the river before us, and alongside was another beautiful, old stone mill. We continued our explorations, and saw a large flock of swans floating serenely on the river. Though we had not walked the entire length of the Promenade, we had to call it quits soon after stopping for refreshments, for we were to meet with Mathieu's parents that evening.

A beautiful boathouse along the 

Promenade des Moulins.

Muriel and Thierry met us at Desmond's apartment shortly after we returned to town. After hugs and kisses and an exchange of gifts, we set out for Chez Ming, a Chinese restaurant on the Rue de Borgogne. Miranda, the lovely owner (who is Chinese and speaks perfect English) made us all very welcome and had even prepared a special appetizer of shrimp toast, knowing it was Desmond's favorite. He was delighted, and we all enjoyed the scrumptious treat. We had a special cocktail, also. It was a blend of sake, lychee juice, and other spirits that I cannot remember. It was quite tasty. The buffet meal was excellent. Everything was freshly prepared and served in small portions so that fresh food was always on offer. It was an excellent meal and I can understand why Chez Ming is a favorite. 

When we all returned to Desmond's home, Muriel and Thierry treated us to a delicious strawberry tart and a glass of Vouvray, which is a delightful wine from the Loire valley. It was a delectable ending to a lovely day. I could get used to this!