More Time in Tours

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 29, 2015

We were having such a fun day in Tours, France! The Segway tour (the machines are called gyropodes in France) was certainly a highlight. When we had finished the tour, Desmond contacted his friend and colleague, Erica, who lives in Tours, to ask if she could join us at Place Plumereau. It was good to see Erica again, and it was so nice that Craig could at last make her acquaintance. We met at an ice cream shop and all enjoyed a dish or cone of some creamy gelato as we talked. The afternoon began to grow chilly, so we followed our gelato with coffee at the French Coffee Shop just off Place Plume. The shop was cozy and comfortable.

Remnants of the ancient St. Martin's Basilica
 in Tours, dating from the 400s.

Specialty drinks at the French Coffee Shop
 in Tours, France.

We all wandered around town together. Craig wanted to see the interior of Saint Gatien's Cathedral, so we went inside the beautiful structure. We toured it slowly and talked in whispers, not wanting to disturb the reverent silence. Soon, that silence was broken by a few tones from the beautiful pipe organ. The great instrument was being tuned! We could see a massive scaffold alongside it and rightly assumed it was there for maintenance and tuning. As we drew closer, we were treated to a lovely impromptu concert. It was an unexpected gift we all enjoyed.

St. Gatien's Cathedral in Tours, France,
built between 1170 and 1547.

The beautiful pipe organ at St. Gatien's.

Erica and I, gazing up at the cathedral in Tours.

We later made our way over to Les Halles, the large, covered market in Tours. It was fun to browse there and I purchased a jar of pork rillettes to take home. We stopped at a little cheese market, where Craig bought some "pocket cheese". That had become a family joke after one of our previous vacations in France during which Craig had startled one of Desmond's friends by pulling a hunk of cheese out of his jacket pocket and munching on it as we walked around Orléans.

A cheese shop in Tours, France.

After a while, we went into a very uniquely decorated bar for drinks. Simon, who is Erica's significant other, was able to join us there. We sat in a cute little circular room and had a nice visit along with our drinks. We had hoped that Erica and Simon could join us for dinner, but it didn't work out. 

Dinner that evening was at the restaurant, Leonard da Vinci, where I had dined with Desmond in 2014. Des was very happy to be sharing one of his favorite restaurants with his dad. It turned out to be quite an experience, and not exactly what we had expected. We were seated on the upper level again, which is made up of two or three very cozy and nicely decorated rooms. There was a group of American tourists in the adjacent room. A tour group. The were obviously well into their cups and were talking loudly and boisterously. And then, they began to sing! Their tour guide and song-leader was apparently a well-known songwriter in France. They sang the hokiest of old American tunes, one after another. Desmond was mortified. He had wanted the evening to be perfect. We did the only thing we could do; we just laughed it off. In fact, at times we were laughing uncontrollably. Des even apologized to the waitress for the rowdy Americans. She responded in a somewhat resigned tone, saying that it occurs regularly in that restaurant. The food was good, though, as always. Craig, and Des ordered the pasta prepared with truffle cream, seared foie gras, and Italian ham, while I tried a new dish of pasta shells stuffed with seasoned veal. It was a delightful meal and I enjoyed being there with my family, making memories. 

Delicious veal-stuffed shells.

A Tour of Tours on Segway

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 29, 2015

Poor Craig was on vacation but didn't get to sleep in! He was a very good sport about it, though. That day, we awoke at 7:00, drank our coffee, and then popped into our neighborhood bakery for eclairs and chouquettes to munch on the way to Tours. The scenery consisted mostly of field after field of the bright yellow colza. At one point, it looked like a brilliant yellow river as it curved along between stands of trees. 

Walking toward the center of Tours, we came upon the huge outdoor market which was in full swing. We walked through, enjoying each enormous section. The colorful flower market booths were very busy with shoppers buying flowers, herbs, and bedding plants. The scent was wonderful! We came upon the clothing market, where I could have browsed for an hour or two. There were scarves, shoes, belts, and purses, in addition to just about any article of attire you could want. We continued on through the food market, the book stalls, and at the end discovered a flea market. We stopped to look at some bookends that Desmond was interested in and he got a good price on them when we also purchased a wooden cat figurine. Craig and I had somehow fallen into the tradition of purchasing some sort of cat themed item on each trip to France. 

Lots of beautiful flowers!

As we continued on toward the heart of Tours, Craig was enjoying his first look at the town he had heard so much about after I had visited last year. Place Plumereau was becoming crowded with tourists as lunchtime approached. It was a lovely, sunny day, though cool, and many tables were already surrounded by people drinking coffee and chatting. We realized that we were going to have to grab a quick lunch if we were going to be on time for our upcoming Segway tour. We found a tiny kebab shop on a side street and ordered sandwiches and fries. The sandwiches were huge! Des and I could have shared one, for neither of us was able to finish. 

A lovely street in Tours, France.

City hall in Tours, France.

Soon, we were on our way to meet our Segway tour guide, David. Craig and I were pleased to discover that he spoke English quite well. He was easygoing and fun. It didn't take David long to realize that we had been truthful when we told him that we were experienced Segway riders. In no time, we were on our way! David led us on a tour of Tours which lasted an hour and a half and was absolutely amazing. I never stopped smiling! We traveled first along the Loire, past the university, and came to a point of the pathway where the walkway was very "steepy", as David would say. He told us that this would be a good place to see how fast we could go on the Segway and to experience how the machine will push back at you if you have maxed out. It is a self-limiting feature. David told me to go first, so I took off, enjoying the speed and grinning from ear to ear. I was expecting everyone else to follow and when I reached the bottom of the long incline, I turned and discovered that I was alone. I waited a few moments, as the trail was curved and I couldn't see the whole length of it. Soon, along came two people on bicycles, but no one else. I became concerned that there had been an accident, so I headed back the way I had come. Before long, there were my companions. It seemed that I had misunderstood David and was only supposed to have gone a short way. David had told the others else to wait, saying that I would soon notice I was all alone. 

Our Segway tour guide, David,
helps Craig adjust his helmet.

A Segway tour along the Loire in France.

David then guided us through the city streets, along shopfronts and then on to a bike/pedestrian bridge which took us to a lovely tree-shaded park on an island in the Loire. All along the way, we were treated to beautiful views of the river and the town. At one point, David curved suddenly into a u-turn behind a hedge and said, "let's hide!"  I was a bit slow to hide completely, but David popped out and yelled "boo!" at Desmond and Craig and then burst out laughing. He was just so adorable and fun that we had to laugh, too. We went on through the park, which was very pretty, and then David led us down a narrow alley. The old houses there seemed a bit run down, but the wisteria blooming everywhere gave the area a charming look.

 le Château de Tours

We crossed another bridge, which took us back toward the center of town. David led us through the busy market, where we received many stares, comments, and questions. Segway tours are new to the area, so we created quite a sensation. It was fun weaving in and out of the market and through the crowds to Place Plumereau. We felt like celebrities as everyone stared, pointed, and photographed us. We also went to the train station, which was very busy outside. A train had just arrived and there were passengers towing their luggage along the walks. At a crosswalk one man, whom I was trying carefully to avoid, looked me straight in the eye with an angry glare and then purposely moved over just enough to clip one of my wheels with his suitcase. It could have tipped my Segway, but Des, who was directly behind me, said he got the worst of it when my wheel flipped his suitcase over!

Our tour was nearly over, but David guided us past the the beautiful St. Gatien's cathedral, where we paused to take some photos. We then stopped to view the 200-year-old cedar of Lebanon (the cat was still there!) and stretch our legs for a bit. We then headed back to our starting point. We had such fun on that tour! We gave David a large tip, which he tried to refuse, but he really deserved it.  He was a great guide and aside from being fun, he was knowledgeable and gave us interesting information along the way. 

A 200-year-old Cedar of Lebanon
 in Tours, France.

  
If you visit France, you must try a Segway tour, if at all possible. It is tremendous fun and very easy to learn! The company we used was Freemove, which offers tours in Amboise, Tours, and Blois.

Making Memories in Tours

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 18, 2014

After lunch, Desmond and I continued our exploration of Tours. We wanted to visit the cathedral that we had passed by earlier in the day. It wasn't too difficult to find and soon we were gazing up at the enormous structure.

Saint Gatien Cathedral in Tours, France.

Saint Gatien Cathedral was built between 1170 and 1547. It is a magnificent building and is definitely worth a visit. The exquisite stained-glass windows are breathtaking to behold. You may also view the tomb of the children of Charles VIII and Anne of Brittany, who died as infants.

The Cathedral of Saint Gatien. Looking toward the pipe organ 

and one of the beautiful stained glass windows.

As we continued our walking tour, we stopped to gaze at the ancient Tour de Charlemagne (not pictured), which is almost all that remains of the 4th-century Romanesque Basilica of Saint Martin. Each year, in November, a feast is held in honor of St. Martin.

We dined at this wonderful restaurant in Tours, 

Leonard da Vinci.

That evening, we dined early at the restaurant Leonard da Vinci, which is located just off la Place Plumereau. The restaurant was absolutely charming. I'm glad we arrived early, because that enabled me to photograph the interior without intruding upon other patrons. Our meal was superb from start to finish. We began with a starter of olives marinated in balsamic vinegar and oil, and had a delicious rustic bread to accompany it. We then enjoyed the main course of pasta seasoned with truffle oil and topped with seared foie gras, thinly-sliced Italian ham, and fresh Parmesan. It was exquisite! The foie gras literally melted on the tongue and was rich and satisfying. Our desserts were delightful as well. Desmond and I shared a chocolate and caramel lava cake. We lingered as long as possible in the quaint dining room, but soon had to be on our way if we were going to catch the train for our return to Orléans.

The interior of the restaurant 

Leonard da Vinci in Tours is both rustic and elegant.

Tagliatelles Leonard de Vinci, 

one of the specialty dishes at the restaurant.

As we were hurrying toward the train station and were walking briskly through one of the busiest intersections in Tours, I suddenly tripped and fell hard on the stones surrounding the tramway. I was surprised to find myself on the ground; it had happened so quickly! Desmond helped me to my feet and picked up my scattered packages. I was quite embarrassed, and even though I was in a lot of pain, I just wanted to get out of there. Three police officers approached and asked if I was okay. I tried to assure them that I would be fine, though it took some convincing. 

The large and efficient train station in Tours, France.

As we continued our walk to the station at a much slower pace, I began to wonder if I was really okay. My left foot and both knees were hurting terribly, and my hands were scraped. I continued to walk with Desmond, certain that I would feel much better once I was seated on the train. Returning to Orléans, no one was more disappointed than I to discover that the tram was closed for some overnight construction and there were no taxis available! The 25-minute walk to the apartment was excruciating. Des carefully guided me along in the darker areas, so that I would not trip a second time. We were glad to be home, and I was soon snuggled into my comfy bed, telling myself that all would be well in the morning.      

Tours (France) Continued

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 18, 2014

Before continuing with "A Tour of Tours", I must take a moment to mention a couple of my favorite blogs. Lynn McBride, over at Southern Fried French, is an expat hailing from South Carolina who writes charmingly of her life in southern Burgundy. Her wonderful blog is filled with recipes, anecdotes and some fabulous photography. I recently purchased her book "How to Learn a New Language with a Used Brain" and have hopes of learning French. At the age of 62, my brain is certainly "used"! I also recommend that you take a look at French Word a Day, by Kristin Espinasse, an expat from Arizona who now resides in Provence. She, too, writes of her life in France and is also a published author. With the help of her husband and children, Kristin introduces French words and phrases that tie into the theme of each post. She offers stories, recipes and lovely photography along with a few life lessons as well. And now, back to April 18 in Tours...

We met Desmon's colleague and friend, Erica, at la Place Plumereau at the appointed time. Erica had not lived in Tours for very long and was still becoming acquainted with the city. We began walking toward the university, which is situated along the Loire. There is a lovely pathway beside the river. We followed her as she walked briskly into the library and continued onto an elevator which whisked us upstairs to the roof. We were treated to a sweeping view over the rooftops of Tours. From that vantage point, we could see for miles.

The rooftops of Tours, France.

 A closer view. I love the ivy-covered house!

We continued exploring, with Erica narrating our walk, and eventually found ourselves at Les Halles, a large, covered marketplace. We were all eager to go inside and have a look, as even Erica had not visited it before. It reminded me of Halles Chatelet in Orléans, though larger and with a much wider variety of shops. There were several enticing shops offering carry-out, and of course, patisseries, boulangeries, fromageries, and so on. I wanted to purchase some of the famous Tours rillettes, and soon had a jar of the tasty terrine wrapped in paper and tucked into a little bag.

All I need now is a glass of wine and a crusty baguette!

We had hoped that Erica could join us for lunch, but she had a previous engagement. As we walked with her toward the tram stop, we learned that the Tram de Tours had only been in operation for about six months. Unfortunately, it wasn't convenient for us at that time, because we had decided to turn back the way we had come in order to find a place for our midday meal. We had a difficult time deciding; there so many cafes, restaurants and brasseries from which to choose! Finding ourselves back at Place Plumereau, we were approached by the proprietor of a British-style pub who was so friendly and persuasive that we couldn't resist. We elected to dine inside for a change, and were charmed by the interior. The pub was much larger than it appeared from the street, and we were soon seated at a roomy booth toward the back. The old stone walls were warm and inviting; the leaded glass windows provided us with a view of a side street bustling with tourists. I ordered the croque monsieur, which was served with a side salad, while Des opted for a planche, which was really something! He had not expected so much food, but did his best to finish it. 

A traditional croque Monsieur.

 The planche looked like a tasty choice.

TRAVEL TIP: Before your trip, use Google street view to "walk" around the neighborhoods of potential places to stay. You will be able to see if there are restaurants, a pharmacy, a bakery, and attractions within walking distance. Cyber-walk to the nearest metro stop or taxi stand. You won't feel disoriented when you actually arrive.

A Tour of Tours

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 18, 2014

No time for pastries! Desmond and I woke at a reasonable hour, but decided on toast and coffee for a light breakfast before we caught the train to Tours. I had been looking forward to this little day trip for quite some time. Tours is the second largest city in the Centre region of France, and has a beautiful "old town" with a maze of cobblestone streets lined with lovely buildings. The train ride was just over an hour from Orléans, and we arrived on a slightly overcast morning.  

Our first order of business was to locate a patisserie (you didn't think I'd miss my morning pastry, did you?) which had been recommended to us. It was said to have the largest pastries at the most reasonable prices. It wasn't far from the train station. The pastries were almost comically large! Des and I decided to share a strawberry and cream filled delight. We carried our pastries to the popular Place Plumereau, where we found a sidewalk cafe to savor a hot beverage along with our tasty treats.

 

                            Cafe creme and a pastry at a cafe in la Place Plumereau.                              

I like the apartment at the top right of this photo, 

with the large balcony and trailing wisteria vines.

La Place Plumereau is a bustling, beautiful square in the heart of old Tours, though it was only beginning to wake up when we were having breakfast. There you will find many bars, cafes, and restaurants. It was wonderful to sit in the picturesque place, enjoying the view with my son. The architecture surrounding us was fabulous. Even the noise of the recycling trucks picking up the previous nights empty wine bottles did not deter us from enjoying the scene.

One of the beautiful half-timbered 

houses on la Place Plumereau, Tours.

We were fascinated with the houses surrounding the square, many of which were built during the 15th and 16th centuries! I have always loved the look of the half-timbered houses like the one pictured above, but found myself intrigued by the slate-clad homes as well. At first glance, it looked as if those homes were shingled (see photo below).The slate tiling helps to make the structures fire-resistant.

A slate-tiled home in old Tours.

Some of the homes on la Place Plumereau displayed intricate carvings, like the one pictured below. I'm sure the occupants must be used to the hundreds of tourists snapping photos all day.

A medieval carving on a slate-tiled home in Tours, France.

We wandered around after breakfast, taking in the sights. The cobblestone streets are lined with many shops and restaurants and we checked out a few places for souvenirs along the way. Our meandering took us to the courtyard of the Museum of Fine Arts where we gazed upon an amazing cedar of Lebanon which was planted there in 1804. The massive tree is a sight to behold. If trees could talk, what stories we would hear!

The cedar of Lebanon in the courtyard 

of the Musée des beaux-arts, Tours, France.

While in the courtyard of the museum, Desmond spotted an old "friend". He had met the tabby cat on a previous visit to Tours. At that time, the furry feline had been curled on the steps of the museum with his back to the milling tourists. Des had cautiously approached him, camera in hand, and softly cooed, "It's okay old fellow, I won't hurt you. I just want to take your picture", when the turned and gave him a ferocious glare. He got a great photo, but wondered just who should be afraid of whom? The cat must have been in a mellow frame of mind when I drew near and took a photo; he looked almost bored. 

This fine fellow must the guardian of the tree.

Travel Tip: Comfortable shoes are a must for tourists, which goes without saying, but taking frequent breaks at cafes and parks is another great way to avoid foot fatigue. Plan your day to allow for these interludes. You won't feel quite so harried and exhausted at the end of the day.