Keeping it Light

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, Dec. 30 2018

We slept late, and I know it was something we all needed. Desmond had rested very little the night before, but managed to slip out of the apartment and return with pastries before Craig and I were finished with our first coffee of the morning. 

The weather was damp and cold when we left the AirBnB, but we made the decision to take the double-decker bus tour of Lyon. The huge vehicle was very crowded and we had to sit on the top level which was open to the weather. It was absolutely freezing up there! I was very grateful for my warm hat and gloves. About halfway into the tour, we were able to move to the lower deck and were much more comfortable. The views of Lyon, along with the commentary, held our attention. It’s a lovely old city with many modern touches and we would love to return someday for further exploration. 

A view of Lyon, France

When we made it back to our starting point, it was lunchtime. We found a cozy restaurant where we ordered pizza. I don’t think we have ever been disappointed when ordering pizza in France, and this place was no exception. 

There really are no windows or wildcats on that building.
 It's all a mural. There are many in Lyon.

Our next stop was the automaton museum. We love just about anything quirky, and were delighted with the place! In the entrance lobby was an entire automated circus scene, complete with acrobats, jugglers, and high-wire acts. A clown was feeding seals from a bucket of fish. The figures were only about eight to ten inches high and were painted in vivid detail. As we continued into the interior of the museum, we saw many animated dioramas, most with figures twelve to eighteen inches high, recreating scenes of medieval life, art, fairy tales, and so on. 

A lively circus scene at the automaton museum in Lyon, Fr

This automaton certainly looked familiar!

The museum is on the ground floor of an ancient building in old Lyon. As we progressed through it, we were walking on a downward slope and I noticed that we were literally in a cave with the walls and arched ceiling carved out of rock. The jointed wooden people and animals created a cacophony of clicking and whirring as they picked grapes, wove silk, baked bread, and washed clothes. One huge scene depicted Nôtre Dame de Paris, complete with Quasimodo and music. Guignol, a popular puppet character in France, was also present. There was much to see and it was charmingly quaint. This would be an enchanting place for children, and since we’re just kids at heart we enjoyed it.

Quasimodo atop Notre Dame

Automatons using a loom to weave silk

I’m old enough to remember when automatons were used in advertising displays and delightful Christmas scenes in shop windows. Some are still in use today. I have seen a cobbler recently, in the window of a shoe repair shop in Orléans.

We strolled along the river for a while, where a huge outdoor market was taking place. It was tempting to linger, but we were on our way to another museum. It was all about the history of Lyon and was very interesting. It’s simply amazing to think that this area has been inhabited since the year 43 bce when the Romans established a military colony. The museum also had a huge exhibition of marionettes that was fun to view. 

Garlic at an outdoor market in Lyon, France

An enticing display of cheese at the outdoor market

We were very tired and cold from walking in the brisk winter chill. On our way home, we stopped at a lovely tea shop for a hot drink. The hot chocolate we ordered was unlike any we had ever tasted. It was made with rich bars of chocolate melted and frothed into fresh, hot milk. Before serving it, our waitress piled each of our enormous cups with whipped cream. She then slowly poured the frothy chocolate carefully over and around the billowing cream and left us to enjoy our decadent treat. We lingered for quite some time over that delicious beverage and left the shop feeling content and almost happy. Keeping ourselves busy had helped to distract us from our grief over losing mom. It had been a pretty good day, all things considered. 

Incredible chocolat chaud in Lyon, France

Desmond and Craig heading home to
our apartment up the hill in Old Lyon, France

A Tour of Tours on Segway

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 29, 2015

Poor Craig was on vacation but didn't get to sleep in! He was a very good sport about it, though. That day, we awoke at 7:00, drank our coffee, and then popped into our neighborhood bakery for eclairs and chouquettes to munch on the way to Tours. The scenery consisted mostly of field after field of the bright yellow colza. At one point, it looked like a brilliant yellow river as it curved along between stands of trees. 

Walking toward the center of Tours, we came upon the huge outdoor market which was in full swing. We walked through, enjoying each enormous section. The colorful flower market booths were very busy with shoppers buying flowers, herbs, and bedding plants. The scent was wonderful! We came upon the clothing market, where I could have browsed for an hour or two. There were scarves, shoes, belts, and purses, in addition to just about any article of attire you could want. We continued on through the food market, the book stalls, and at the end discovered a flea market. We stopped to look at some bookends that Desmond was interested in and he got a good price on them when we also purchased a wooden cat figurine. Craig and I had somehow fallen into the tradition of purchasing some sort of cat themed item on each trip to France. 

Lots of beautiful flowers!

As we continued on toward the heart of Tours, Craig was enjoying his first look at the town he had heard so much about after I had visited last year. Place Plumereau was becoming crowded with tourists as lunchtime approached. It was a lovely, sunny day, though cool, and many tables were already surrounded by people drinking coffee and chatting. We realized that we were going to have to grab a quick lunch if we were going to be on time for our upcoming Segway tour. We found a tiny kebab shop on a side street and ordered sandwiches and fries. The sandwiches were huge! Des and I could have shared one, for neither of us was able to finish. 

A lovely street in Tours, France.

City hall in Tours, France.

Soon, we were on our way to meet our Segway tour guide, David. Craig and I were pleased to discover that he spoke English quite well. He was easygoing and fun. It didn't take David long to realize that we had been truthful when we told him that we were experienced Segway riders. In no time, we were on our way! David led us on a tour of Tours which lasted an hour and a half and was absolutely amazing. I never stopped smiling! We traveled first along the Loire, past the university, and came to a point of the pathway where the walkway was very "steepy", as David would say. He told us that this would be a good place to see how fast we could go on the Segway and to experience how the machine will push back at you if you have maxed out. It is a self-limiting feature. David told me to go first, so I took off, enjoying the speed and grinning from ear to ear. I was expecting everyone else to follow and when I reached the bottom of the long incline, I turned and discovered that I was alone. I waited a few moments, as the trail was curved and I couldn't see the whole length of it. Soon, along came two people on bicycles, but no one else. I became concerned that there had been an accident, so I headed back the way I had come. Before long, there were my companions. It seemed that I had misunderstood David and was only supposed to have gone a short way. David had told the others else to wait, saying that I would soon notice I was all alone. 

Our Segway tour guide, David,
helps Craig adjust his helmet.

A Segway tour along the Loire in France.

David then guided us through the city streets, along shopfronts and then on to a bike/pedestrian bridge which took us to a lovely tree-shaded park on an island in the Loire. All along the way, we were treated to beautiful views of the river and the town. At one point, David curved suddenly into a u-turn behind a hedge and said, "let's hide!"  I was a bit slow to hide completely, but David popped out and yelled "boo!" at Desmond and Craig and then burst out laughing. He was just so adorable and fun that we had to laugh, too. We went on through the park, which was very pretty, and then David led us down a narrow alley. The old houses there seemed a bit run down, but the wisteria blooming everywhere gave the area a charming look.

 le Château de Tours

We crossed another bridge, which took us back toward the center of town. David led us through the busy market, where we received many stares, comments, and questions. Segway tours are new to the area, so we created quite a sensation. It was fun weaving in and out of the market and through the crowds to Place Plumereau. We felt like celebrities as everyone stared, pointed, and photographed us. We also went to the train station, which was very busy outside. A train had just arrived and there were passengers towing their luggage along the walks. At a crosswalk one man, whom I was trying carefully to avoid, looked me straight in the eye with an angry glare and then purposely moved over just enough to clip one of my wheels with his suitcase. It could have tipped my Segway, but Des, who was directly behind me, said he got the worst of it when my wheel flipped his suitcase over!

Our tour was nearly over, but David guided us past the the beautiful St. Gatien's cathedral, where we paused to take some photos. We then stopped to view the 200-year-old cedar of Lebanon (the cat was still there!) and stretch our legs for a bit. We then headed back to our starting point. We had such fun on that tour! We gave David a large tip, which he tried to refuse, but he really deserved it.  He was a great guide and aside from being fun, he was knowledgeable and gave us interesting information along the way. 

A 200-year-old Cedar of Lebanon
 in Tours, France.

  
If you visit France, you must try a Segway tour, if at all possible. It is tremendous fun and very easy to learn! The company we used was Freemove, which offers tours in Amboise, Tours, and Blois.

Crepe-making Lessons

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal:  April 13, 2014

That Sunday, we awoke to another beautiful spring morning. We didn't have big plans for the day, but were content to just linger over our coffee before we set out to find pastries. I don't expect to be constantly entertained by Desmond. I have never been one to cram my vacation days full of activities. I prefer a more relaxed pace. I enjoy exploring and becoming familiar with the area in which I find myself. We wandered around in the sunshine after breakfast, eventually climbing a staircase to the small park atop the movie theater near the Loire. It's a sweet little place, with a tiny playground and lots of shade. Blooming plants brightened the space and surrounded us with their fragrance.

Looking toward the Loire from the park.

Home again, we spent some time on chores, straightening the apartment and washing dishes. I checked my email and sent off a couple of greetings to family back home. As lunchtime drew near, we decided to walk over to the new restaurant, Oh, Terroir. Des had eaten there on several occasions and knew it would be something I'd enjoy. Oh, Terroir specializes in healthy dishes which are made from locally sourced products. Since the Loire valley is such a fertile and abundant place, I knew I was in for a treat. After you step inside the restaurant, you select your meal using the computerized screens. You first choose a base of half-grain pasta, quinoa, lentils, or spelt. Your next step is to choose a topping and any other added ingredients from the many choices on offer. You can also select a beverage and dessert at this time. 

Lunch at "Oh, Terroir" was wonderful!

I had heard of spelt, which is an ancient ancestor of wheat, but had never tried it. That was my selection. I had it topped with a light creamy Dijon and ham sauce. It was sprinkled liberally with chives and freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and it was so good that I later attempted to recreate this dish at home. (You'll find the recipe below.) Desmond chose a chicken curry over spelt. We were very pleased. It was a delightful lunch in a lovely setting. The restaurant is decorated in colors of lime, chocolate, and pewter in a very modern style. We sat at a table in the loft, which gave us a nice view both inside and out. If you are ever in the area, you must stop for a meal there. It's quick, reasonably priced, and delicious.

On our way home, we shopped in Halles Chatelet for a few ingredients that we would need to prepare supper that evening. I enjoy shopping there, or just looking around. The grocery market takes up a large space within the mall, with a variety of shops selling everything from fresh fish to macarons. Halles Chatelet was begun in 1882 and was then an open market. The mall was built over the original market site in 1977, with a more recent renovation being done in 2005. 

That night, Desmond's friend Mathieu came over.  We were to receive crepe-making lessons from Desmond, which resulted in a hilarious time and a delightful meal! Mathieu caught on to the process very quickly, but my arthritic wrist made it difficult for me to make a smooth, flat swipe around the pan. Still, they were delicious, even if the crepes weren't shaped exactly right. We had ham, two kinds of cheese, and some caramelized onions to put inside the crepes. We laughed so hard when Mathieu decided to take a shortcut by cracking an egg atop his crepe before folding it over. The egg slowly slid off of the crepe, off of the pan, and then onto the table where it slithered beneath the microwave. We were helpless to stop it; we were laughing too hard! We ended that fun meal with dessert crepes. My favorite was a simple lemon juice and sugar crepe. What a fun evening! 

A savory crepe is actually called a gallette. 

Whatever the name, they were yummy!

RECIPE: Dijon-ham sauce. To recreate the meal I enjoyed at Oh, Terroir, I started by making a simple white sauce, but substituted some chicken broth and white wine for about half the milk. I whisked in some Dijon mustard, about two to three teaspoons per cup of white sauce. I also seasoned it with a bit of salt and pepper, but remember to go easy on the salt if you will be using ham  After the sauce had thickened, I stirred in diced ham and heated the mixture through. I the poured this over half-grain pasta (as I hadn't found spelt berries at that time) and sprinkled the dish liberally with Parmesan cheese and fresh chives. It's a keeper!