Take a hike!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, May 8 2024

We had all slept well in our cozy gîte. The four of us breakfasted on brioche, which we spread with some incredibly good preserves made by Vincent’s father. It was difficult to decide which was my favorite - the wild cherry, or the mirabelle plum! Then, we set out to drive to Banne d'Ordanche, an ancient volcano in the upper Dordogne valley. The scenery along the gently curving roadway was simply beautiful. As we passed through the tiny village of Murat le Quaire, we were stopped by police, who told us that we would have to wait to proceed because of the Victory Day ceremony which was taking place. We got out of the car and walked a few yards to take in the scene. Several village officials were making speeches, and a band stood by. Police and firefighters stood at attention. We were part of a small crowd of onlookers and were very touched by the ceremony,  which commemorates the end of World War II in Europe.

Afterward, we stopped at a souvenir shop and made a few purchases before continuing our drive. Soon, we arrived at the foot of the volcano, which rises nearly a mile above sea level. A chilly breeze had picked up, but the sun shone brightly in a sky strewn with puffy little clouds. Desmond loaned me one of his hiking sticks and we began our trek up the slope. I was very grateful for the support of the hiking pole, but had to stop every now and then to stretch my back muscles. The path became steeper, and I discovered that leaning forward to ascend was actually easing the pain. We all stopped occasionally to admire the views unfolding around and below us. Farms and small villages were tucked into little wooded valleys, and we could see sheep and cattle grazing on the lush pastures. Every now and then, as we climbed, a lark would fly up into the air. I was entranced by its melodious song. When we reached the summit, we all sat down to admire the breathtaking, 360 degree view. Though it had been a short hike, I was thrilled to have done it, bad back and all! 

Banne d'Ordanche in the Auvergne

Desmond and Craig
hiking on a chilly day in France

Upon returning to the gîte, Desmond and Vincent prepared a wonderful lunch of raclettes. The ham, potatoes, and melted cheese were filling and delicious, accompanied by a hearty baguette and crunchy little pickles. Craig, Desmond, and Vincent went out for a longer hike after that, but I was content to remain behind. 

A meal of raclettes is always a treat!

Another view outside our gite
on a beautiful spring day.

When they returned, we had just enough time to head over to our host’s farm to watch Sandrine making the St. Nectaire cheese for which the region is known. It was a treat to look on as she explained each step of the method. The cheese must be made with the freshest of milk, so the process begins as soon as the cows are milked. Twice a day, every day, this delightful cheese is created. Her St. Nectaire cheese has won high awards, and it’s no wonder. Sandrine's dedication to her craft is above reproach. 

We were offered fresh cheese curds to taste.

Cheese-making equipment. 

We watched through a window as Sandrine
 explained the info on the cheese label.

That evening, back in our cottage, we tucked into a delightful meal of pasta salad, that wonderful cheese, hazelnut sausage, and the inevitable baguette. Vincent and Desmond had picked up some scrumptious pastries for dessert. We cut them into pieces so that we could share and enjoy all four; the raspberry macaron, millefeuille, religieuse, and Paris Brest. It had been such a wonderful day. I sat outside on the terrace with Vincent to watch the sunset, and then we all played a game of dominos before heading off to bed.

 

A peaceful sunset in France