Auvergne Adventure

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 7 2024

We woke at 5:30 and had a quick breakfast of coffee, bread, and spreads. We three were going to set out an adventure with Vincent. Desmond, Craig, and I had packed the night before and after throwing the last few items into our bags, we met Vincent, loaded the car, and set off for the Auvergne. He asked if we minded not taking the toll highway, and we said that would be great, as we loved passing through villages and being able to enjoy all of the beautiful scenery. On the toll roads, there are high embankments which would have prevented us from enjoying the views of countryside. The disadvantage is that there are no rest stops with clean, modern bathrooms, convenience stores, and restaurants. However, every lovely town we drove through had a public toilet which was usually in a town square. For the most part, they were very clean. Many of them have a self-cleaning feature that activates when the patron exits. I did have to use a squat toilet once, but at least it had grab bars! On the road, we passed many lovely sights. Wildflowers bloomed, crops flourished, and cattle grazed on lush pastures. We spied the occasional chateau nearly hidden in the forest. We stopped in La Châtré, because it was market day. It’s always a pleasure to stroll up and down market streets lined with tables, booths, and farm trucks. 

I love the outdoor markets in France!

We selected items for a picnic lunch, choosing fresh baguettes, newly strawberries, cheese, wine, and olives. Craig and I bought sausages flavored with fig, or cheese, or hazelnuts. We saw booths selling local honey, chocolates, toys, fresh fish, clothing, leather goods, jewelry, and other delights. There were vendors offering freshly prepared hot food items, which were selling fast. All of the different aromas were enticing, but we had to get back on the road. We drove through some pretty villages, such as tiny Jarnages, which was ancient and well kept. The origins of Jarnages date back to Gallo-Roman times. Cressat, a little town about the same size as Jarnages, was also lovely. The landscape became more and more beautiful as we gained some altitude.

We had reached the region in which there were many extinct volcanoes, and the views were gorgeous. After parking the car, we gathered our lunch items and followed a wide, rocky pathway toward a valley that had been carved out by glaciers long ago. We stopped at a spring for a refreshing drink and the continued our trek.

We arrived at the valley and found a grassy place in the sun to have our picnic. The scenery was beautiful and there were patches of snow on the peaks, glistening brightly. 

We were glad to have worn our jackets, since there was a sharp, cool breeze swirling through. As we ate, we watched a few climbers high up on the ridges of the valleys. Desmond told me that he and Vincent had hiked around the entire valley, along those high ridges! I can imagine how breathtaking that must have been. From where we were sitting, we could see fast-flowing streams, forested slopes, and some waterfalls leaping down the cliff faces.

After our tasty picnic, the four of us returned to the car. We drove through more of the incredible landscape. Farms and tiny villages were nestled far below in folds of velvety green. Before long, we arrived at our gîte, where we would stay for a couple of nights. It was absolutely charming, with a patio that overlooked a valley dotted with dairy cattle and was bordered by a swift stream.

We enjoyed our stay at this charming gite.

The cottage contained everything we needed, and I loved the big farm table. In the refrigerator was a large wheel of cheese that Vincent and Desmond had reserved for us. The St. Nectaire cheese is a specialty of the region, made from the fresh milk of the cows we could see in the valley. We settled in and relaxed for a while. Vincent made delicious mushroom and cheese omelets for supper, which we enjoyed with a baguette, olives, and strawberries. We played a game of Mexican Train before heading off to bed. What a fantastic day!

If you get the chance to try St. Nectaire cheese,
you won't regret it!

Not Just Another New Year’s Eve

Pages from Jan’s Travel Journal: Monday, December 31, 2018

New Years Eve. I can’t say that the three of us were in a festive mood. It was our last full day in France before Craig and I flew home to face the funeral of our beloved mom, Ruby. It would be hard to leave Desmond to mourn on his own. We ate breakfast and then began packing our bags and cleaning the apartment. We left the luggage inside and headed out on a last exploration of Lyon. 

A lovely building near our apartment in Lyon

Our view crossing a bridge in Lyon on a cold winter day

Our first stop was the Cinema Museum in old Lyon, which houses over 450 movie sets and props. The main exhibition room contained many of the sets from the movie “Parfum”, which was a very creepy film. The sets were intricately detailed and quite fascinating. There were props from dozens of well-known movies which we really enjoyed viewing. We saw Harry Potter’s wand and learned that the studio had to keep making replacements because Daniel Radcliffe would nervously scratch the paint off of them. I enjoyed seeing many of the props from one of my favorite movies, Amélie. We saw Mrs Doubtfire memorabilia, costumes from Star Wars, Mary Poppins’ umbrella, and so much more! 

This is a full-sized movie set from Parfum.

Another movie set from Parfum

Props from Amélie,
one of my favorite movies

Props from the movie "Mrs Doubtfire"

There was also an exhibit of miniature interior scenes. My favorite was a restaurant, with tables no more than a couple of inches high. They were fully decorated with table linens, flowers, candles, tiny plates, cutlery, wine glasses, and even baskets of bread! I wish I would have gotten a picture of it. I did get a shot of an little apartment scene.

A very detailed scene in miniature

After that, Craig returned to the apartment for a rest. Desmond and I wandered around looking for a place to have lunch. We ate at a very crowded Italian restaurant and were lucky to find a table. Des ordered a tasty truffle ravioli and I chose a creamy chicken and mushroom pasta bowl. We did a bit of shopping after lunch, which was fun, but I was glad to return to our apartment. The temperature had dropped and the afternoon had become quite cold. 

A chilly day in Lyon, France

It was soon time to leave for the train station. We had hired an Uber, and it was a long ride to the station. I wondered if we were going to just ride all the way to Paris! The Gare de Lyon was a very open, modern looking structure, but it was absolutely freezing inside. Our train was late arriving and we endured a lengthy wait in a long line before we finally boarded. 

The train car was warm, at least. We soon settled in. Desmond contacted the host of our AirBnB to let her know we were running late and was assured that it wouldn’t be a problem. Months previously, I had made the effort to find a luxurious place with a balcony and a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower for our New Year’s Eve celebration. (Not that we were now in any mood to celebrate.) It was to have been a special treat before Craig headed back home, while I would have returned to Orléans with Desmond for another ten days. 

We became concerned when our host did not give us the full address of the AirBnB. Each time we sent a text, it took longer and longer for her to respond. We also needed the entry code to the building, but she told us to just stand outside and wait for someone to exit the building and then just slip inside! We were unwilling to do that and still she had not told us the apartment number, but simply said that the key was under the door mat! Apparently she expected us to enter the building illegally and then start looking beneath random door mats! 

By this time, the train was nearly due to arrive at our station. Several times, we tried calling the host, but got no answer. Desmond suggested that we remain on the train, which terminated at the airport. We decided to do that and explain to the conductor our dilemma while offering to pay the additional cost. However, the conductor never came into our car to check our tickets. Meanwhile, I was on my phone reserving a triple room at the airport Ibis Hotel. 

We arrived at the station and had begun walking the short distance to our hotel when Desmond spotted a Marks and Spencer! Craig patiently waited in the hallway with our luggage while Des and I darted into the busy store. We selected items for our New Year’s Eve "dinner" and Des found us a nice bottle of champagne. 

Within minutes of settling into our room at the Ibis, we received a call from our AirBnB host. She claimed her phone had gone dead, yet we could hear that she obviously was at a party. Could she not have used another phone? She became a bit angry when we told her we were not going to stay at her apartment and that we would be requesting a refund. (The corporate office of AirBnB arbitrated the dispute and I am happy to report that we received a full refund.)

We spent the last few hours of 2018 reminiscing about mom/grandma. We shed some tears but also laughed a lot over the many happy memories of that very special woman who never allowed Alzheimer’s disease to destroy her bright smile and loving heart. Between the stories and sips of champagne with which we made a toast to mom, we munched on stuffed grape leaves, sausage, tiny sweet peppers filled with cheese, savory crackers, a baguette and some lovely cantal, with crisp Florentine cookies and spicy mince pies for dessert. 

Our midnight supper on New Year's Eve
 in the airport hotel

While it certainly wasn’t the celebration we had planned, the three of us had made the best of it and found some happiness with which to ring in the new year. Instead of a view of the Eiffel Tower, we had a view of the parking lot. But we also had each other, and hearts full of love and special memories. 

Keeping it Light

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, Dec. 30 2018

We slept late, and I know it was something we all needed. Desmond had rested very little the night before, but managed to slip out of the apartment and return with pastries before Craig and I were finished with our first coffee of the morning. 

The weather was damp and cold when we left the AirBnB, but we made the decision to take the double-decker bus tour of Lyon. The huge vehicle was very crowded and we had to sit on the top level which was open to the weather. It was absolutely freezing up there! I was very grateful for my warm hat and gloves. About halfway into the tour, we were able to move to the lower deck and were much more comfortable. The views of Lyon, along with the commentary, held our attention. It’s a lovely old city with many modern touches and we would love to return someday for further exploration. 

A view of Lyon, France

When we made it back to our starting point, it was lunchtime. We found a cozy restaurant where we ordered pizza. I don’t think we have ever been disappointed when ordering pizza in France, and this place was no exception. 

There really are no windows or wildcats on that building.
 It's all a mural. There are many in Lyon.

Our next stop was the automaton museum. We love just about anything quirky, and were delighted with the place! In the entrance lobby was an entire automated circus scene, complete with acrobats, jugglers, and high-wire acts. A clown was feeding seals from a bucket of fish. The figures were only about eight to ten inches high and were painted in vivid detail. As we continued into the interior of the museum, we saw many animated dioramas, most with figures twelve to eighteen inches high, recreating scenes of medieval life, art, fairy tales, and so on. 

A lively circus scene at the automaton museum in Lyon, Fr

This automaton certainly looked familiar!

The museum is on the ground floor of an ancient building in old Lyon. As we progressed through it, we were walking on a downward slope and I noticed that we were literally in a cave with the walls and arched ceiling carved out of rock. The jointed wooden people and animals created a cacophony of clicking and whirring as they picked grapes, wove silk, baked bread, and washed clothes. One huge scene depicted Nôtre Dame de Paris, complete with Quasimodo and music. Guignol, a popular puppet character in France, was also present. There was much to see and it was charmingly quaint. This would be an enchanting place for children, and since we’re just kids at heart we enjoyed it.

Quasimodo atop Notre Dame

Automatons using a loom to weave silk

I’m old enough to remember when automatons were used in advertising displays and delightful Christmas scenes in shop windows. Some are still in use today. I have seen a cobbler recently, in the window of a shoe repair shop in Orléans.

We strolled along the river for a while, where a huge outdoor market was taking place. It was tempting to linger, but we were on our way to another museum. It was all about the history of Lyon and was very interesting. It’s simply amazing to think that this area has been inhabited since the year 43 bce when the Romans established a military colony. The museum also had a huge exhibition of marionettes that was fun to view. 

Garlic at an outdoor market in Lyon, France

An enticing display of cheese at the outdoor market

We were very tired and cold from walking in the brisk winter chill. On our way home, we stopped at a lovely tea shop for a hot drink. The hot chocolate we ordered was unlike any we had ever tasted. It was made with rich bars of chocolate melted and frothed into fresh, hot milk. Before serving it, our waitress piled each of our enormous cups with whipped cream. She then slowly poured the frothy chocolate carefully over and around the billowing cream and left us to enjoy our decadent treat. We lingered for quite some time over that delicious beverage and left the shop feeling content and almost happy. Keeping ourselves busy had helped to distract us from our grief over losing mom. It had been a pretty good day, all things considered. 

Incredible chocolat chaud in Lyon, France

Desmond and Craig heading home to
our apartment up the hill in Old Lyon, France

Heartbreak

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, December 28 2019

Craig and I awoke early and went to Desmond’s for breakfast. We were all excited to be going to Lyon for a few days. After a quick bite, we carried our small cases downstairs to await the driver. Instead of the train, Des had reserved space for us through a ride-share app. We were soon met by a very nice man and were on our way. Our driver spoke no English, but with Desmond sitting up front there was never a communication problem. 

I enjoyed the scenery as we passed through towns and countryside. The closer we got to Lyon, the more beautiful it became. We stopped for a bathroom break about three hours into the drive. The little roadside rest area had only a squat latrine, which is often referred to as a Turkish toilet. I was dismayed, as it had no handrail or anything to hold onto; not even a nearby wall to lean on! If I were young and spry, it would have been no problem. I made the best of it and managed not to fall over. 

On our way again, the scenery became craggy and rugged. The mountains were visible through the mist. Just before reaching our destination we stopped at a modern rest area which had large, clean restrooms. Upon reaching Lyon, our courteous driver let us out at Place Bellecour, where we could visit the tourism office and purchase a packet of tickets for the metro. It would have been wonderful to see the square during the Christmas market, as I had heard it was a good one.

The Ferris wheel at Place Bellecour, Lyon.

Even on a grey day, Lyon is lovely.

After that, it was a fairly short walk to our AirBnB. It was located near the top of a steep, narrow cobbled road and the apartment itself was up three long flights of stairs. It was roomy and had lots of personality, though it was a bit chilly. 

We enjoyed this cute little apartment in Lyon.

Our cozy bedroom in Lyon, France

We stowed our bags and then set out to find something to eat. After our six-hour drive we were definitely ready for lunch. The only place open nearby was a kebab shop and that was fine with us. We devoured the veal kebab sandwiches and crispy fries in the cozy restaurant and then set out to explore. 

A warm and filling lunch

A pretty street on Lyon, France

We had decided on a double-decker bus tour and had a little time to kill before boarding, so we walked around for a bit. We purchased some delectable pastries at an artisanal patisserie. I chose a Mont Blanc, which was a concoction of chestnut cream, meringue, and pastry cream. I had just thrown the wrapper away when my phone rang. My heart jolted when I saw that the call was from my mother’s hospice nurse. I knew it was bad news. 

Craig and Desmond knew how bad it was by my reaction. Our only comfort was that our sweet Ruby had passed away swiftly and peacefully. We immediately made our way back to the apartment, sobbing and trying to support each other. The rest of that day was a blur. We called our daughters and one of my sisters, who said she would inform the rest of the family. I vaguely remember Desmond handing me a hot drink and Craig making phone calls to the airline. Desmond went out later and picked up food for the three of us, but I have no memory of what we ate. 

To lose a loved one so suddenly when we were thousands of miles away was particularly heartbreaking. Stunned, bleary-eyed, and inconsolable, we cried ourselves to sleep. 

An Easy Day

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, June 5 2017

I slept well and woke at 7 AM. Janey was still slumbering. I knew she had been unable to sleep on the plane, so I left her snuggled beneath the blankets and went into the other room to make coffee. I opened the windows to a beautiful, sunny morning and sipped my coffee as I gazed out at the courtyard. There were a surprising number of birds around, thanks to the many secluded courtyards, parks, and other green spaces. They were singing cheerfully and I enjoyed their sweet twitters and chirps as I relaxed. Azur was soon sitting on the window ledge, alert to all the activity outside.

Azur greets the morning.

Desmond soon awoke, and before long we were headed over to the bakery on the square. Within minutes, we were munching on tasty lemon tarts. We lounged around, discussing Craig's ordeal and his urgent quest for an expedited passport renewal. It was a helpless feeling, knowing there was nothing we could do to speed up the process. We missed him terribly.

I finally woke Janey at 10:00. We had decided on an easy day and at 11:30 we took the tram to Parc Floral. Janey had seen many photos of the beautiful botanical garden and she was happy to view it first-hand. We wandered aimlessly, serenaded by birdsong while admiring the lovely floral displays. We also stopped in to see the butterfly house and then continued our stroll through the gardens. After a while, Janey began to have an allergic reaction to something there. Her eyes were beginning to itch and swell, so we cut our visit short.

A pretty resident of the butterfly house.

We stopped at Auchan to purchase food for the evening meal.My granddaughter enjoyed wandering around the huge grocery store and she picked out some snack cakes and cereal for herself. That evening, Desmond made an incredible meal of orange duck, pureed sweet potatoes, and sauteed cherry tomatoes. The tasty orange sauce was a perfect topping for the creamy sweet potatoes. Our day ended with a nostalgic movie. 

A wonderful meal!

TRAVEL TIP: Always be aware of the expiration date on your passport. Go check it. Now. 

Together Again

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, May 20, 2016

At last! This was the day that Craig would arrive in France! We were all happy that he would soon be in Orléans, but at the same time we shared concerns that he could arrive late due to a transportation slow-down. Imagine Desmond's disappointment when that proved to be the case. He had been looking forward to meeting his dad at the train station and spending a bit of time with him before going to work. Only about half the normal number of trains were leaving Paris, and Craig was caught up in a delay that set him back by a couple of hours.

Des was dejected as he boarded the tram which would take him to the university. At the same time, I boarded a different tram that would carry me in the opposite direction, to Les Aubrais. My husband came in on the 2:00 train, tired but happy to have finally arrived after his long overnight flight. We hopped aboard a crowded tram for the ride across town. After a short, restful break in the apartment, we decided to do some shopping. We walked over the bridge to Halles Chatelet, where we browsed for a while, and then went down the street to Mr Bricolage. We purchased a fan there, for the bedroom, and as it was such a lovely day, we wandered over to the French Coffee Shop where we enjoyed a refreshing beverage. Craig was smiling happily as he looked at his surroundings. He was looking forward to a much-anticipated vacation and some quality time with his son. 

Craig was very happy to be back in Orleans.

After Craig and I returned to the apartment, it wasn't long before Desmond arrived home from work. Happy greetings followed as we prepared to sit down to apero. We toasted one another with cold beer and then munched our way through chips, tiny cubes of cheese, the wonderful sausage I had purchased at the festival, and some squares of pizza warmed up from the night before.

Azur snuggled up to Craig right away. 

For the evening meal, we treated ourselves to Oh, Terroir. The three of us walked slowly through the cool, evening air to the restaurant and were then faced with the difficult decision of choosing from their enticing menu. I ordered the barbecue burger and fries, which was wonderful! The fresh, local ingredients truly made a difference in the quality of the meal. Des bought a little mason jar in which were nestled two tiny macarons which Craig and I shared. After returning to the apartment, we didn't stay up late. Craig was tired from his long travel, and we had an exciting day planned for the morrow.

The food is always top quality at Oh Terroir. 

Oh, That Salad!

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, May 13 2016

Where did Thursday go? Oh, yes, I have skipped it because I was not feeling well. I didn't leave the apartment all day, except for a trip to the pharmacy. There was one highlight to the day, though, that I must mention. For supper that night, Desmond made a wonderful meal of crispy braised duck in an orange-ginger sauce. It was served with peas and fried purple potatoes. It was an extraordinary dish! I am going to try making it at home.

On Friday, I was feeling a bit better. I even went over to the nearby boulangerie where I purchased a lovely little raspberry tart to enjoy with my morning coffee. I then mostly lazed around the house until Des arrived home around 12:30. We walked over the bridge (580 steps, in case you were wondering!) and bought some little broccoli quiches and Orangina for our lunch. We found a shaded bench on the Place and thoroughly enjoyed our surroundings as we ate. I never seem to get enough of the lovely architecture. At this time of year, there were flowers brightening the scene everywhere. Large tubs of flowering plants were placed around every square and at both ends of the bridges. Every apartment building had window boxes and planters filled with bright blossoms of geraniums and other colorful plants. 

A lovely little raspberry tart.

Desmond took me to the Memphis Diner for dessert. It's a cute restaurant that's styled after a 1950s American diner. Even the food is imported from the states! I had a slice of oreo pie, which came with a large dollop of whipped cream and a scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side. It was way more than I could eat! We then shopped for a while, popping into and out of many clothing stores, looking for a jacket for Desmond. It seems we were just a bit too late in the season for that sort of thing; our trip was unsuccessful. We took the tram home and then relaxed until dinner time, when Des concocted the most amazing salad. It was made with crispy pressed chicken, tiny potatoes and bits the duck that was left from the night before. He also made a delicious homemade dressing.

This incredible salad was quite a treat!

Before the meal, we had apero. Des served me a cocktail that he had invented. It was made with peach liqueur, lemon juice, amaretto, and a hint of maple syrup. It was delicious! We nibbled on little cubes of cheese with our drinks, and we played a silly game using our phones. And then we sat down to those amazing salads! Fresh greens, pear tomatoes, roasted potatoes, crispy chicken and duck, everything drizzled with that fresh French dressing - it was truly the best salad I have ever eaten! We had a poppyseed baguette to go with it, and afterward, no room for dessert!

Ready, Set, Pack!

Anticipation. It adds to the overall enjoyment of an event, doesn't it? While I do like to be surprised on occasion, I find that anticipation is a much more enjoyable experience. Even as a child, I was one who never tried to get a peek at Christmas gifts before the day. Oh, I would gently shake the festively wrapped boxes and wonder what could be hidden inside, but I never tried to sneak one open.

I am in a state of anticipation now, over my upcoming vacation in France. Life has been very hectic here and I certainly feel the need for some R&R. I have already begun packing some of the items that Desmond has requested, plus a few surprises. I have a list of what I am going to pack for myself. I use the app "Packing Pro", which I find to be very helpful. I am trying to take as little as possible in order to make room for some of the items that Des had left behind in Kansas.

A serene view of the Loire in early spring.

Desmond and I have been making lists and plans and reservations. We both enjoy the planning stages and I believe that Craig was very happy to leave all of that to us. We will be spending a night in Briare at a bed and breakfast across from one of the locks on the canal. We also made plans to pay a visit to Guédelon, the castle under construction.

I knew that while I was in Orléans without Craig, I would often be on my own. Des had work obligations. I would be just fine, wandering around Orléans or hanging out at his place. I planned little shopping and probably would spend several hours at the beautiful botanical garden, Parc Floral, which is one of my favorite places. It will be full spring when I visit, which will be a first for me. Craig will fly out to join me toward the latter part of the month.

Wisteria blooming along the Loire.

I am enjoying the spring weather here in Kansas. The blooming plants are so lovely and I seem to have my allergies under control this time! I haven't done any planting yet, though I have plans to very soon. I have gotten a kick out of watching a woodpecker make a home in one of our cottonwood trees. He has been very busy for weeks, but at last the home seems to be complete. I assume that there is now a Mrs Woodpecker in residence, incubating some eggs. Time will tell. Happy Spring!

Paris When it Rains

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: May 1, 2015

A light drizzle was falling when I awoke.  As I gazed out onto the square, the dreary greyness seemed to reflect my emotions. I was sad to be leaving Orléans once again. I shook the feeling off with a reminder that I had just experienced a fantastic vacation in Europe with some of my favorite people. Each day had been filled with smiles, laughter, and adventure. Even the smallest things had given me pleasure, happiness, and memories to last a lifetime. I stuffed a few remaining items into my suitcase and then joined Desmond and Craig for coffee. 

May 1 is labor day in France, which meant that many businesses and services were closed, including the tram. We had ordered a taxi to take us across town to the train station. Des was going to accompany us to Paris so that we could all enjoy one more day together. As we prepared to leave, I paused to give Azur a treat. I shook the bag of cat goodies and he ran up to me. As I watched him devour the treat, I heard meowing and chuckled while saying, "You really love those things don't you? I will bring you some more next time.". I then realized that the meowing was not coming from Azur, but from a cat on the other side of the heavy wooden door! We opened the door to discover her on the landing. The little stub-tailed feline was loudly demanding a share of Azur's tasty "foreign" food. We could not resist. After all, she had come all the way up the stairs. How she had heard the sound of those treats shaking inside the bag, I will never know. 

The friendly neighborhood kitty.

Before long, the taxi arrived. As we rolled through the streets of Orléans, I savored every glimpse of the old avenues and beautiful stone buildings. At the station, we bought more coffee and a few pastries to eat while waiting for the train. I reached into my bag for my camera, wanting to take a picture of Des as he huddled on the stone bench near the platform. It wasn't there. I searched every pocket of my purse but was unable to find my camera. OR MY PHONE!! I suddenly recalled that I had left those items on chargers back at the house. Desmond offered to run home for them, or to rent a bike to zip across Orléans. He was certain he could make it there and back before our train was due. But no, I was too afraid that he might slip on wet cobblestones. I would just have to live without them for a while until they could be shipped back to America. 

After an uneventful train ride, we were greeted in Paris by light rain and a chill breeze. We checked into the hotel and relaxed for a while in our rooms before going out for lunch. We had all agreed that pizza sounded good, but were soon dismayed to learn that many of the restaurants were closed on this national holiday. After sloshing up and down the streets surrounding our hotel, we came almost full circle to a warm, inviting brasserie just steps from the hotel. No pizza was served there, but by then we had ceased to care. 

I wish I could remember the name of the restaurant so that I could share it. It was a nice place, with attractive decor and attentive, polite, wait staff. (And one of the cleanest bathrooms I had ever seen in France!) The food was plentiful and tasty. The bread was some of the most delicious any of us had ever eaten. Our waiter refilled the bread basket several times, as we just couldn't seem to get enough! I enjoyed my shepherd's pie. It was the perfect comfort food on this cold, rainy day. 

The view from our hotel room in Paris.
We were at the Ibis Tour Eiffel Cambronne.

And then - what to do on a rainy day in Paris when museums and shops are closed? The three of us gathered in our hotel room and began scrolling through our ipads and phones in search of an indoor activity. At last, one of us found that the museum of chocolate was indeed open! It took some effort to get there - twelve stops on the Metro, a transfer, and another five stops - but it was worth it. The Musée Gourmand du Chocolat is a little gem. We learned many fascinating facts about the discovery and uses of chocolate over the centuries. There were wonderful displays of ancient artifacts for making chocolate, and delicate china cups from which royalty sipped their frothy cocoa.  And at the very end, we watched a presentation which demonstrated how chocolate is tempered, molded, etc. As we filed out toward their unique gift shop, we were invited to help ourselves to samples of several different candies, including a rare and exquisite chocolate that had an earthy, delicious flavor. The museum is worth a visit for adults and children, if you can tear yourselves away from the more well-known sights of Paris.

The Paris Metro.

Lots of stairs at the Metro stop.

On our previous trips to France, we had always ended our vacation with a visit to the Eiffel Tower. It's our way of bidding adieu to France, to our son, and to all the people and places that have made our time there so very pleasant and memorable. That night was an exception. The weather had become even more damp and blustery until the idea of a trek in the cold and wet was just too much, even for a last view of the Iron Lady. Instead, the three of us found ourselves in a cozy Italian restaurant where we had a delightful meal. That was followed by a lively game of Scattergories in the warmth and comfort of the hotel. It was a perfectly wonderful way to end the evening.

Desmond enjoyed veal picatta on our last night in Paris.

Ah, we finally found some pizza!

TRAVEL TIP: It is a good idea to make yourself aware of any holidays which occur in the country you are planning to visit. You can then make your plans based upon the availability of public transportation, services, restaurants, museums, and other attractions. Bon voyage!