Where There's Smoke...

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 21, 2014

How wonderful it was to awaken in our cozy room at the Jackotel in Orléans, France. Craig and I have always enjoyed traveling together. We take pleasure in the little things, such as sipping our morning coffee while enjoying whatever view is available outside our windows. The gravel courtyard of the hotel and the fragrant lilac bushes nearby provided a lovely foreground as the ancient church opposite the street cast shadows across the square.

The ancient church of St. Aignan.

Desmond and his friend Mathieu soon arrived, and the four of us went in search of breakfast. We had plans to meet Mathieu's parents, Muriel and Thierry, for lunch later at a restaurant in a village halfway between Orléans and Bitry. Thierry had made reservations at a picturesque place that he knew we would enjoy. It was our only chance to see our friends, since we would be leaving for Annecy the next day. 

The lovely Burgundian countryside.

The drive that morning began uneventfully. I haven't traveled much in Burgundy, but what I have seen is pleasant countryside with gently rolling hills, farms, vineyards, sunflowers, and fields of crops which reminded me of Kansas. As we rolled along, following the river, we noticed a large encampment of caravans (motorhomes) and tents in a wooded area near the Loire. Smoke from numerous campfires lazily drifted toward the sky. Further along, we noticed more smoke, but it was coming from beneath the hood of Mathieu's car! 

Mathieu pulled over onto the shoulder of the busy highway, and soon had the hood open. He and Craig extinguished the fire as Des and I cast a wary eye on the darkening skies above us. We were on a rather deserted stretch of a very busy highway. There was a tidy farm just across the road, from which we were being eyed warily by the occupants. Many vehicles passed us by, and yet not one paused to offer help or to inquire about our situation. This struck me as somewhat odd, even for France. Back home in the Midwest, we would have received numerous offers of assistance. A truckload of soldiers eventually stopped long enough to wish us luck, and then sped away.

Mathieu had been on his phone, contacting a tow service, and we settled down to wait. The farm family across the road had come toward us as we huddled uncomfortably on the damp verge but they looked straight past our little group, and without a word went into a field to dig potatoes. It was a relief to see the tow truck after what seemed like a lengthy wait. The driver was a chatty sort. He and Mathieu had a long conversation in which the driver informed him that there were two large encampments of gypsies in the area. Spring is the time of year for their mass weddings and baptisms, he explained. It's a gigantic family reunion. He said that the locals distrusted the Roma people, and we wondered if that was why no one had even glanced at us while we stood stranded by the road.  

After a long drive in the tow truck, AWAY from where we had come, we arrived at a garage to find a taxi waiting to return us to Orléans. I watched in horror as the meter on the taxi clicked away the kilometers. By the time we reached Orléans, it was nearly 200 euros! Mathieu told me not to worry - the cost of the cab was covered by his auto insurance. Whew!  

An E.R. in France

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: April 19, 2014

Ugh! All was not well when I awoke on Saturday morning. The souvenir from my Tours "trip" was still with me in the form of a very swollen and painful foot. Craig's flight was due into Paris and then he would have a train ride ahead of him, so I thought we had time to visit the emergency room before he arrived. Desmond accompanied me to the hospital and helped to explain to the staff what had happened to me the previous day, but had to leave for the train station before I was called into the exam room. I emerged from the hospital a couple of hours later, after five x-rays, with my foot heavily wrapped and my knees bandaged, holding a list of three prescriptions which Desmond later picked up for me. I found that the entire ER experience had only set me back about $60. Yet another reason to love France!

The doctor had informed me that the fall had bent the toes on my left foot completely backward, resulting in a painful nerve injury often referred to as "turf toe", since it is common among athletes. He said that I must keep the foot wrapped for ten days and that I should be able to walk on it if I wore a larger shoe. And it was okay, although very painful.

It was good to see my travel-weary husband after I returned from the hospital. Craig had been able to maneuver well in Paris and had managed to board the 11:00 train, as I had done. The birthday gift I had laughingly presented to him in March was apparently not needed. It was a cute idea, and he loved it anyway. I had given him a t-shirt with several handy French phrases printed on it. It said such things as "un taxi s'il vous plaît" and "Gare d'Austerlitz". On the back was printed a message that anyone finding this lost tourist, please return him to his son at such-and-such address. 

Craig's travel shirt, 

with all the important phrases.

Can you spot the cat graffiti? 

The three of us enjoyed a drink and a chat before setting out for the nearby Jackotel. Our room was ready, and it was large and pleasant. There was a pretty view of the front courtyard and the ancient church across the street. The hotel is just a few minutes walk from Desmond's apartment. 

The view from our window

 at Jackotel in Orleans, France.

We left the Jackotel shortly after checking in. It was such a beautiful day that we all wanted to be outside in the sunshine. Craig and I were both a bit concerned over our ability to walk long distances on this vacation. My foot would take some time to heal, and poor Craig was already fighting a bad knee. He had actually acquired a brace, so I knew that knee was really bothering him. We were both determined not to let our "disabilities" spoil any of the fun. A slower pace and frequent rests would help.

We decided to head over to Auchan for some groceries. I was relieved to find that there was a scooter available for me to use while in the store. I managed to find some shoes that were larger than my usual size. They slipped on over my bandaged foot with ease. We ran into Arno while shopping, and arranged to meet him for drinks at his home the next day. 

The three of us went for a short walk after returning from Auchan. Craig was impressed with the recent improvements in the neighborhood where Desmond lives. It was a pleasant stroll, and we ended back at the apartment. Des had planned for us to all dine at home, knowing that Craig would be a bit tired from his travels. He put together a wonderful meal of grilled salmon, brown rice, and roasted broccoli that we all enjoyed, plus a yummy dessert fondue which was a pleasant ending to evening.

Desmond fed us well. 

That salmon was delicious!

A Lazy Day

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, March 9, 2011

We had a great day, though we didn't really do all that much in the way of "touristy" stuff. Desmond had to work that morning, so Craig and I slept late, had breakfast of - what else - pastries and coffee, and then walked over to Carrefour to do some shopping. We meandered around the mall until it was time for lunch, and just grabbed a couple of sandwiches at a little place there. 

Rue de la Republique, across from Carrefour in Orleans, France.

Des met us at the hotel in early afternoon and we accompanied him back to Carrefour so that he could shop for the dinner that he was preparing for us that evening. returning to the apartment, the three of chatted for a while over snacks and drinks. Des and Craig then left for an excursion to a cat shelter across town. I remained behind so that I could make some phone calls home and check my email. At the rescue shelter, a very beautiful, blue-eyed cat named Azur chose Desmond, climbing into his lap as if to say "I'm yours!"  How could he resist?  I was sorry that I would not get to meet Azur, as he had to remain at the shelter for a few more days. Craig had taped a video of the cat and the shelter, so at least I got to see what he looks like.

Yes, I photograph doors.

Dinner was an enjoyable meal. It was a raclettes party! Antoine joined us and we really had fun. The raclettes machine is a table-top oven into which small skillets heaped with cheese are placed. The top of the oven is used to warm the cooked potatoes. The bubbly, melted cheese is then poured over a plate of potatoes and charcuterie, or deli meat, with a side of cornichons, which are tangy little pickles. Some people like to also add a cooked egg to their dish. It's a casual and very social way to dine, somewhat like a fondue party, and is popular in France, Switzerland, and Belgium. 

The raclettes oven. Try it if you get the chance!

We played Pit after dinner, which is a very noisy card-trading game. The French are somewhat reserved, and I was afraid that this rowdy game might be a bit much for Antoine. He enjoyed it, and thanks to the thick stone walls of the apartment, we didn't upset any neighbors! 

We're Back!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday March 8, 2011

We arrived in Orléans from Bretagne on Tuesday. It had been a long travel day, but we soon felt very much at home. It was good to see familiar places. Not much had changed in the two years since our first visit. Our train trip today was beautiful. It was another gorgeous, sunny day. Craig and I felt awake and alert. Jet-lag gone! 

We had begun our morning the usual way - with delightful pastries. Craig chose a baba au rhum topped with fruit, Desmond enjoyed another beignet, while I tried something new. It was called a paille, which means "straw", and it did resemble straw a bit, with its light, crisp, almost hollow layers. Sandwiched in the middle was a layer of raspberry jam. It was very tasty!

Our petit déjeuner.

Craig and Desmond in the square 
outside the hotel in Carnac, France.

After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel and shopped a bit for some little souvenirs before calling a taxi to take us to the train depot in Auray. I enjoyed the incredibly scenic views of the French countryside as the train sped to Paris. We passed many quaint villages and farms, and cattle-studded fields intersected by lively streams. We saw at least three small chateaux, which were very picturesque. We had stored some of our luggage at Gare Montparnasse, the train depot in Paris, so we picked it up, and then hailed another taxi to Gare d'Austerlitz, and boarded the train which would take us to Orléans. A quick taxi ride later, we were at the hotel. Whew!

Our hotel of choice this time was the Jackotel, which was located a mere three-minute walk from Desmond's apartment in the ancient part of town near the Loire. The hotel had a rustic charm and the staff were friendly, though not one of them spoke English. We were certain we could muddle through.

Our cozy room at Hôtel Jackotel.

The ancient church of St. Aignan, is just across from the hotel.

That night we ate kebab sandwiches and hot, crisp fries at Le Grec Gourmand. The food was plentiful and inexpensive. We were a bit worn out from traveling and were soon ready to return to our cozy hotel.