Distractions

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 29 2018

We awoke after a restless night of tears and little sleep. Desmond had slipped out early and picked up an assortment of pastries, which I vaguely remember choosing from. I think we were all a bit numb by then.

The previous afternoon, Craig had been successful in his attempts to change our plane tickets. He and I would be able to return to Kansas on January 1 so that we could make funeral arrangements for the woman who had meant so much to all of us. The wonderful clerk at Delta Airlines had gone above and beyond with her kind and compassionate assistance. Desmond, too, did more than his share. He insisted on returning to Orléans on the train that night, where he packed up our things and cleaned our little AirBnB. He explained to our host what had occurred and then after a few hours sleep in his own home, boarded a return train for Lyon. It was a loving gesture and was much appreciated.

Though the three of us were numb with grief, we chose to soldier on. What we lacked in exuberance, we made up for in a dogged determination to continue with what remained of our vacation. We met up with Florent for a tour of the traboules, the secret passageways which were very important during the many years of silk trade in Lyon. The covered walkways and staircases were used to transport the silk, thus keeping the delicate fabric safe from the elements. It was intriguing to explore a few of the traboules and learn something about the architecture of old Lyon. I regret that I didn't get any interior photos of the traboules, but it was shadowy inside and the floors were a bit uneven.

Waiting for our tour to begin

Our morning tour ended at a silk weavers museum in which it was possible to view the actual silk screening process. It was much more involved than I had imagined and the end products of hand-painted silks were astonishingly beautiful. Scarves, ties, and garments were available for purchase, though most were way out of my price range. I can’t say that tears were not shed as we explored the museum and the beautiful area in which the buildings for the huge looms had been built years ago. Many times, I encountered things that I knew my mother would have been delighted to see.

Explaining the silk-screening process

Silk being painted by hand; a tedious
 process with a beautiful result!

The finished product will be stunning!

The four of us lunched at Crock n Roll, a trendy bistro which served many unique croque sandwiches, along with craft beer and other tasty offerings. I chose the croque Germain. which was made with smoked ham, emmental cheese, and bechamel. It was a nice break with good food and great company.

Croque monsieur Germain

A fountain near city hall in Lyon, France

After lunch, we made our way up to La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere on the high hill, using the crowded funicular. I was grateful to ride up the steep hillside instead of having to walk. I doubt I could have done it! The cathedral was lovely, though oddly built. It had been criticized during its construction in the 1800s and was said to resemble an elephant lying on its back! Inside were some fabulous mosaics. The afternoon had become rather chilly, with an unwelcome breeze which cut right through my jacket. We warmed ourselves with coffee and hot chocolate and some delightful pastries purchased from a small establishment next to the basilica.

The basilica on the hill above Lyon

 Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Lovely artwork inside the cathedral

The Roman ruins and museum were next, and had been high on our list of must-see attractions in Lyon. We were not disappointed. The theater, which had been built for plays and concerts over 2,000 years ago, was large and in surprisingly good condition. There was a good view of the city from its position on the hillside.

One of the ancient Roman theaters in Lyon

The museum was fascinating and was filled with hundreds of objects which were discovered locally. It is said that even now, people are likely to discover coins, pottery shards, or other artifacts simply while digging in their own gardens! I was most impressed by the glassware. Some of those pieces were of colored glass and were ornamented with scrolled handles or other decoration. Amazingly, many were completely intact. I also liked the little oil lamps which were made from the local stone. Replicas were available in the gift shop, and I very nearly bought one.

A detailed floor mosaic from Roman times

Remains of a Roman cart used to trasport wine-filled urns

Our evening meal was at a restaurant which served crepes, something we can never seem to get enough of. I enjoyed a hearty tartiflette gallette which was followed by a decadent salted caramel crepe.

It had been an interesting day, filled with hours of unique sights. We had been distracted from our grief for a while, and that was a good thing.