Take a hike!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, May 8 2024

We had all slept well in our cozy gîte. The four of us breakfasted on brioche, which we spread with some incredibly good preserves made by Vincent’s father. It was difficult to decide which was my favorite - the wild cherry, or the mirabelle plum! Then, we set out to drive to Banne d'Ordanche, an ancient volcano in the upper Dordogne valley. The scenery along the gently curving roadway was simply beautiful. As we passed through the tiny village of Murat le Quaire, we were stopped by police, who told us that we would have to wait to proceed because of the Victory Day ceremony which was taking place. We got out of the car and walked a few yards to take in the scene. Several village officials were making speeches, and a band stood by. Police and firefighters stood at attention. We were part of a small crowd of onlookers and were very touched by the ceremony,  which commemorates the end of World War II in Europe.

Afterward, we stopped at a souvenir shop and made a few purchases before continuing our drive. Soon, we arrived at the foot of the volcano, which rises nearly a mile above sea level. A chilly breeze had picked up, but the sun shone brightly in a sky strewn with puffy little clouds. Desmond loaned me one of his hiking sticks and we began our trek up the slope. I was very grateful for the support of the hiking pole, but had to stop every now and then to stretch my back muscles. The path became steeper, and I discovered that leaning forward to ascend was actually easing the pain. We all stopped occasionally to admire the views unfolding around and below us. Farms and small villages were tucked into little wooded valleys, and we could see sheep and cattle grazing on the lush pastures. Every now and then, as we climbed, a lark would fly up into the air. I was entranced by its melodious song. When we reached the summit, we all sat down to admire the breathtaking, 360 degree view. Though it had been a short hike, I was thrilled to have done it, bad back and all! 

Banne d'Ordanche in the Auvergne

Desmond and Craig
hiking on a chilly day in France

Upon returning to the gîte, Desmond and Vincent prepared a wonderful lunch of raclettes. The ham, potatoes, and melted cheese were filling and delicious, accompanied by a hearty baguette and crunchy little pickles. Craig, Desmond, and Vincent went out for a longer hike after that, but I was content to remain behind. 

A meal of raclettes is always a treat!

Another view outside our gite
on a beautiful spring day.

When they returned, we had just enough time to head over to our host’s farm to watch Sandrine making the St. Nectaire cheese for which the region is known. It was a treat to look on as she explained each step of the method. The cheese must be made with the freshest of milk, so the process begins as soon as the cows are milked. Twice a day, every day, this delightful cheese is created. Her St. Nectaire cheese has won high awards, and it’s no wonder. Sandrine's dedication to her craft is above reproach. 

We were offered fresh cheese curds to taste.

Cheese-making equipment. 

We watched through a window as Sandrine
 explained the info on the cheese label.

That evening, back in our cottage, we tucked into a delightful meal of pasta salad, that wonderful cheese, hazelnut sausage, and the inevitable baguette. Vincent and Desmond had picked up some scrumptious pastries for dessert. We cut them into pieces so that we could share and enjoy all four; the raspberry macaron, millefeuille, religieuse, and Paris Brest. It had been such a wonderful day. I sat outside on the terrace with Vincent to watch the sunset, and then we all played a game of dominos before heading off to bed.

 

A peaceful sunset in France

Auvergne Adventure

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 7 2024

We woke at 5:30 and had a quick breakfast of coffee, bread, and spreads. We three were going to set out an adventure with Vincent. Desmond, Craig, and I had packed the night before and after throwing the last few items into our bags, we met Vincent, loaded the car, and set off for the Auvergne. He asked if we minded not taking the toll highway, and we said that would be great, as we loved passing through villages and being able to enjoy all of the beautiful scenery. On the toll roads, there are high embankments which would have prevented us from enjoying the views of countryside. The disadvantage is that there are no rest stops with clean, modern bathrooms, convenience stores, and restaurants. However, every lovely town we drove through had a public toilet which was usually in a town square. For the most part, they were very clean. Many of them have a self-cleaning feature that activates when the patron exits. I did have to use a squat toilet once, but at least it had grab bars! On the road, we passed many lovely sights. Wildflowers bloomed, crops flourished, and cattle grazed on lush pastures. We spied the occasional chateau nearly hidden in the forest. We stopped in La Châtré, because it was market day. It’s always a pleasure to stroll up and down market streets lined with tables, booths, and farm trucks. 

I love the outdoor markets in France!

We selected items for a picnic lunch, choosing fresh baguettes, newly strawberries, cheese, wine, and olives. Craig and I bought sausages flavored with fig, or cheese, or hazelnuts. We saw booths selling local honey, chocolates, toys, fresh fish, clothing, leather goods, jewelry, and other delights. There were vendors offering freshly prepared hot food items, which were selling fast. All of the different aromas were enticing, but we had to get back on the road. We drove through some pretty villages, such as tiny Jarnages, which was ancient and well kept. The origins of Jarnages date back to Gallo-Roman times. Cressat, a little town about the same size as Jarnages, was also lovely. The landscape became more and more beautiful as we gained some altitude.

We had reached the region in which there were many extinct volcanoes, and the views were gorgeous. After parking the car, we gathered our lunch items and followed a wide, rocky pathway toward a valley that had been carved out by glaciers long ago. We stopped at a spring for a refreshing drink and the continued our trek.

We arrived at the valley and found a grassy place in the sun to have our picnic. The scenery was beautiful and there were patches of snow on the peaks, glistening brightly. 

We were glad to have worn our jackets, since there was a sharp, cool breeze swirling through. As we ate, we watched a few climbers high up on the ridges of the valleys. Desmond told me that he and Vincent had hiked around the entire valley, along those high ridges! I can imagine how breathtaking that must have been. From where we were sitting, we could see fast-flowing streams, forested slopes, and some waterfalls leaping down the cliff faces.

After our tasty picnic, the four of us returned to the car. We drove through more of the incredible landscape. Farms and tiny villages were nestled far below in folds of velvety green. Before long, we arrived at our gîte, where we would stay for a couple of nights. It was absolutely charming, with a patio that overlooked a valley dotted with dairy cattle and was bordered by a swift stream.

We enjoyed our stay at this charming gite.

The cottage contained everything we needed, and I loved the big farm table. In the refrigerator was a large wheel of cheese that Vincent and Desmond had reserved for us. The St. Nectaire cheese is a specialty of the region, made from the fresh milk of the cows we could see in the valley. We settled in and relaxed for a while. Vincent made delicious mushroom and cheese omelets for supper, which we enjoyed with a baguette, olives, and strawberries. We played a game of Mexican Train before heading off to bed. What a fantastic day!

If you get the chance to try St. Nectaire cheese,
you won't regret it!

Combleux along the Canal

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, May 6 2022

After a simple breakfast of breads and spreads, Vincent picked us up for a little drive to the village of Combleux. It is a picturesque town situated on the Loire where he and Desmond had first met. The spring weather was absolutely perfect for a stroll along the Orleans canal. A large boat was anchored near an arched bridge. It had been lovingly restored and looked almost new. I believe it is used now as a bed and breakfast. 

Pretty houses were reflected in the calm water, as a heron hunted for lunch near the bank. Vincent had planned our own lunch at a charming brasserie, at which shaded tables overlooked the canal. However, they were open only for a private party, so we continued our walk. 

A peaceful scene along the canal

A home alongside the canal in Combleux

When we returned home, Desmond, Craig, and I lunched on leftovers and then began to pack for our next little adventure. Des had to leave for a few hours, to finalize the paperwork his new apartment. He was officially a homeowner! When he returned, we enjoyed a celebratory dinner of a baguette, pate, the fancy cheese from the medieval market, tomatoes, olives, pistachios, and champagne. We followed that with chocolate mousse and crème brûlée. Then it was an early bedtime for us because we would be leaving at 5:30 the next morning. 

A Medieval Festival

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, May 5 2022

Desmond had to work until 1:00 that day. Craig and I had a leisurely breakfast and then lazed around the house, but left around noon to meet our son at the Medieval market. We had missed the Joan of Arc festival and were looking forward to the market. Both Jeff and Arno had agreed to join us there.

 

The festival was held just next to the cathedral.

It was a brilliant spring day and as we approached the festival grounds there was excitement in the air. Banners and flags were fluttering in the breeze and we could hear the music of flutes and bagpipes. There were dozens of tents and booths set up within the walls of Campo Santo, next to the cathedral. Enticing aromas lured us to the area where the food booths were set up. We all chose grilled meat and vegetables, with cider or beer. The food was delicious! 

Very festive!

We enjoyed a delicious meal at the
Medieval festival in Orleans, France.

It was wonderful to see Jeff and Arno again and to catch up with them. After lunch, we all began visiting the booths. There were many different types of handmade wares for sale. Craig found a leather wallet and a belt which were crafted by a sweet couple who have been selling their leather goods for 20 years at that festival. We bought some artisanal cheese from the man who made it, some craft beer from another vendor, and shampoo bars from a booth selling lots of handmade products. Des purchased some mead, too. It was so much fun walking around and looking at all the items for sale. 

Desmond browses the wares at the festival.

There were also activities for the children. I loved watching the little ones excitedly racing around on stick horses, practicing their jousting. Toward evening, we began to head toward home. We stopped for coffee at a cafe along the way, sitting at the outside tables on Place d'Arc. Arno left for a few minutes, slipping into a music store. He returned carrying a beautiful little instrument that I think is called a finger harp. He strummed it a bit while we chatted over our coffee and enjoyed the lovely view on the square.

 

Place d'Arc in Orleans

                                      

We said farewell to Jeff and walked home through the ancient part of town, passing by the beautiful Hotel Groslot, which was decked out with flowers and flags in honor of the festivities. Stopping to say goodbye to Arno as he veered off toward his place, we then headed home.

 

                                             

That evening, we made a simple supper of bread and the fabulous artisanal cheese from the festival. We finished our meal with yummy strawberry shortcakes.

Good Food and Good Friends

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: May 4, 2022

We all slept late that morning and then had delicious apple turnovers with our coffee. A light rain was falling as we left for Fleury-les-Aubrais. Vincent picked us up at the station and drove us to his place. It was too wet to be outside in his beautiful garden, so we entertained ourselves inside. We had managed to coax Wailers out of hiding, but the beautiful cat was still quite wary of me and Craig. 

Vincent with his beautiful cat, Wailers.

Vincent had put together a delicious lunch of curry chicken which was served over couscous with golden raisins and chickpeas to sprinkle on top. There were some pan-fried sausages and a baguette as well. It was accompanied by a delightful red wine. After lunch, Desmond, Agathe, and Arthus brought out their instruments and played some music for us. Des played his viola with Agathe on her violin. They did a couple of duets which were very good. Arthus entertained us with his cornet. After that, we all played a long game of Mexican train. Around 4:00, Vincent served more gorgeous pastries which we all exclaimed over. They were almost too pretty to eat! 

What would you choose?

We returned home at 6:30. Desmond and Craig set up the patio table and chairs down in the courtyard where we welcomed Desmond’s old neighbor, Mathieu. We ordered burgers and fries from the Boucherie des Burgers around the corner. Since Covid, they offered only carry-out, but they were quite busy. It was a great meal and we enjoyed catching up with Mathieu.

Shopping and Stuff

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal:  May 3, 2022 

It was a beautiful morning, and we enjoyed a tasty breakfast of coffee, fresh raw milk, and bread still warm from the bakery, topped with cashew butter and jam or honey. And the morning would not be complete without cuddles from Azur.

Craig and Desmond set out for a long walk along the Loire. It was to be an eight mile jaunt, which would have been too much for me. After they left, I decided to go on my own little excursion. I took the tram to Place D’Arc where I did a little shopping. When my back began to hurt, I found a quiet table at Paul and ordered a café crème and a couple of mini beignets. I sent some messages to family back home before continuing  with my shopping.

I love these beautiful shopping carts.

I appreciated the convenience of the tram as it delivered me to Halles Châtelet, where I always enjoy a stroll through the many little food shops there. Colorful displays of macarons invite shoppers to choose their favorite flavors, or perhaps  discover a new taste sensation. I paused at the cheese shop, overwhelmed by the variety. Across the aisle, a produce stand offered fresh fruits and vegetables. Fresh pasta and bulk olive oil were available in the next aisle, and of course there was a wine shop, a butcher shop, a deli, and numerous other little stores. Across the wide hall are boutiques, gift shops, shoe stores, and much more.

I bought some linen napkins for Desmond as a little thank you gift. He always goes out of his way to insure that we have a wonderful vacation. I walked the rest of the way home, as it was just over the bridge. For dinner that evening, Des made a delicious zucchini-butter pasta topped with toasted pine nuts and sunflower seeds. Later, the three of us  went to meet up with Jeff for drinks. The bar was a popular place for billiards, and after a drink the guys all decided to play. I enjoyed watching while sipping on a refreshing Monaco. It was good to see Jeff again and we enjoyed hearing about his recent travels. He enjoys backpacking and has spent weeks at a time wandering all over France. When we left the bar, the evening was pleasantly cool and we thoroughly enjoyed the walk home.

Desmond and Craig enjoy a game of pool.

Kitchen Shopping

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, May 2 2022

Mmmm, fresh, warm bread for breakfast. With some Breton butter of Desmond's delicious jams and spreads, it was a great way to start the day. After breakfast, Des needed to run over to Vincent's place and pick up the flowers we had forgotten to bring home the night before. Craig and I loaded up all of our dirty clothes into a wheeled cart and headed to a nearby laundromat. We had a lovely view of the Loire from the front windows as we waited for our laundry. We had brought along our iPads and played a game of Scrabble. Before long, we were back home, putting our clean clothing away. 

A laundromat with a view

When Desmond returned, we headed out again to go to IKEA. After a long tram ride, we arrived and decided to have lunch there before looking around. It's hard to resist those Swedish meatballs! On Sunday, we had been to see the apartment that Des was in the process of purchasing, and were very impressed with it. We especially like the two balconies! Desmond had been planning his new kitchen, and we wandered through IKEA looking at cabinets and tile colors. I like the way the store is arranged, with little vignettes showing complete, well decorated rooms. It was fun to stroll through the "rooms" while Desmond took measurements and looked at samples. Before leaving, we picked up a package of their delicious chocolate dipped oatmeal cookies.

I love this table with the hearts!

That evening, Desmond had meditation group, so Craig and I relaxed and read our books. For dinner, we had an easy meal of a fresh baguette with two kinds of cheese, carrot sticks, pistachios, and the yummy cookies from IKEA. 

Craig cuddles with Azur