Take a hike!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, May 8 2024

We had all slept well in our cozy gîte. The four of us breakfasted on brioche, which we spread with some incredibly good preserves made by Vincent’s father. It was difficult to decide which was my favorite - the wild cherry, or the mirabelle plum! Then, we set out to drive to Banne d'Ordanche, an ancient volcano in the upper Dordogne valley. The scenery along the gently curving roadway was simply beautiful. As we passed through the tiny village of Murat le Quaire, we were stopped by police, who told us that we would have to wait to proceed because of the Victory Day ceremony which was taking place. We got out of the car and walked a few yards to take in the scene. Several village officials were making speeches, and a band stood by. Police and firefighters stood at attention. We were part of a small crowd of onlookers and were very touched by the ceremony,  which commemorates the end of World War II in Europe.

Afterward, we stopped at a souvenir shop and made a few purchases before continuing our drive. Soon, we arrived at the foot of the volcano, which rises nearly a mile above sea level. A chilly breeze had picked up, but the sun shone brightly in a sky strewn with puffy little clouds. Desmond loaned me one of his hiking sticks and we began our trek up the slope. I was very grateful for the support of the hiking pole, but had to stop every now and then to stretch my back muscles. The path became steeper, and I discovered that leaning forward to ascend was actually easing the pain. We all stopped occasionally to admire the views unfolding around and below us. Farms and small villages were tucked into little wooded valleys, and we could see sheep and cattle grazing on the lush pastures. Every now and then, as we climbed, a lark would fly up into the air. I was entranced by its melodious song. When we reached the summit, we all sat down to admire the breathtaking, 360 degree view. Though it had been a short hike, I was thrilled to have done it, bad back and all! 

Banne d'Ordanche in the Auvergne

Desmond and Craig
hiking on a chilly day in France

Upon returning to the gîte, Desmond and Vincent prepared a wonderful lunch of raclettes. The ham, potatoes, and melted cheese were filling and delicious, accompanied by a hearty baguette and crunchy little pickles. Craig, Desmond, and Vincent went out for a longer hike after that, but I was content to remain behind. 

A meal of raclettes is always a treat!

Another view outside our gite
on a beautiful spring day.

When they returned, we had just enough time to head over to our host’s farm to watch Sandrine making the St. Nectaire cheese for which the region is known. It was a treat to look on as she explained each step of the method. The cheese must be made with the freshest of milk, so the process begins as soon as the cows are milked. Twice a day, every day, this delightful cheese is created. Her St. Nectaire cheese has won high awards, and it’s no wonder. Sandrine's dedication to her craft is above reproach. 

We were offered fresh cheese curds to taste.

Cheese-making equipment. 

We watched through a window as Sandrine
 explained the info on the cheese label.

That evening, back in our cottage, we tucked into a delightful meal of pasta salad, that wonderful cheese, hazelnut sausage, and the inevitable baguette. Vincent and Desmond had picked up some scrumptious pastries for dessert. We cut them into pieces so that we could share and enjoy all four; the raspberry macaron, millefeuille, religieuse, and Paris Brest. It had been such a wonderful day. I sat outside on the terrace with Vincent to watch the sunset, and then we all played a game of dominos before heading off to bed.

 

A peaceful sunset in France

Auvergne Adventure

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 7 2024

We woke at 5:30 and had a quick breakfast of coffee, bread, and spreads. We three were going to set out an adventure with Vincent. Desmond, Craig, and I had packed the night before and after throwing the last few items into our bags, we met Vincent, loaded the car, and set off for the Auvergne. He asked if we minded not taking the toll highway, and we said that would be great, as we loved passing through villages and being able to enjoy all of the beautiful scenery. On the toll roads, there are high embankments which would have prevented us from enjoying the views of countryside. The disadvantage is that there are no rest stops with clean, modern bathrooms, convenience stores, and restaurants. However, every lovely town we drove through had a public toilet which was usually in a town square. For the most part, they were very clean. Many of them have a self-cleaning feature that activates when the patron exits. I did have to use a squat toilet once, but at least it had grab bars! On the road, we passed many lovely sights. Wildflowers bloomed, crops flourished, and cattle grazed on lush pastures. We spied the occasional chateau nearly hidden in the forest. We stopped in La Châtré, because it was market day. It’s always a pleasure to stroll up and down market streets lined with tables, booths, and farm trucks. 

I love the outdoor markets in France!

We selected items for a picnic lunch, choosing fresh baguettes, newly strawberries, cheese, wine, and olives. Craig and I bought sausages flavored with fig, or cheese, or hazelnuts. We saw booths selling local honey, chocolates, toys, fresh fish, clothing, leather goods, jewelry, and other delights. There were vendors offering freshly prepared hot food items, which were selling fast. All of the different aromas were enticing, but we had to get back on the road. We drove through some pretty villages, such as tiny Jarnages, which was ancient and well kept. The origins of Jarnages date back to Gallo-Roman times. Cressat, a little town about the same size as Jarnages, was also lovely. The landscape became more and more beautiful as we gained some altitude.

We had reached the region in which there were many extinct volcanoes, and the views were gorgeous. After parking the car, we gathered our lunch items and followed a wide, rocky pathway toward a valley that had been carved out by glaciers long ago. We stopped at a spring for a refreshing drink and the continued our trek.

We arrived at the valley and found a grassy place in the sun to have our picnic. The scenery was beautiful and there were patches of snow on the peaks, glistening brightly. 

We were glad to have worn our jackets, since there was a sharp, cool breeze swirling through. As we ate, we watched a few climbers high up on the ridges of the valleys. Desmond told me that he and Vincent had hiked around the entire valley, along those high ridges! I can imagine how breathtaking that must have been. From where we were sitting, we could see fast-flowing streams, forested slopes, and some waterfalls leaping down the cliff faces.

After our tasty picnic, the four of us returned to the car. We drove through more of the incredible landscape. Farms and tiny villages were nestled far below in folds of velvety green. Before long, we arrived at our gîte, where we would stay for a couple of nights. It was absolutely charming, with a patio that overlooked a valley dotted with dairy cattle and was bordered by a swift stream.

We enjoyed our stay at this charming gite.

The cottage contained everything we needed, and I loved the big farm table. In the refrigerator was a large wheel of cheese that Vincent and Desmond had reserved for us. The St. Nectaire cheese is a specialty of the region, made from the fresh milk of the cows we could see in the valley. We settled in and relaxed for a while. Vincent made delicious mushroom and cheese omelets for supper, which we enjoyed with a baguette, olives, and strawberries. We played a game of Mexican Train before heading off to bed. What a fantastic day!

If you get the chance to try St. Nectaire cheese,
you won't regret it!