Cruising the Canal

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, May 23, 2016

What a fantastic day we had! Though we awoke to grey skies and light rain, we were determined to have a lovely day. Coffee came first, of course! We enjoyed having a kettle in our cozy room at the gite. There were two pretty mugs and a colorful tin box filled with packets of tea and instant coffee, as well as brightly wrapped cubes of sugar. We went downstairs to find the table beautifully laid for breakfast. Our hostess came in to greet us, asked if we desired some yogurt, and then quietly slipped away and left us to our petit dejeuner. There was a variety of breads from which to choose. A delightful seed bread, slightly sweetened, was our favorite. I also tried a slice of a tender yellow bread which had been made with corn flour. We had several jams and honey from which to choose, as well as a bowl of fresh fruit.  We drank coffee, hot chocolate, and orange juice. It was just what we wanted, since we would be having a big lunch on the cruise in Briare. Another couple came down to breakfast. They were from Germany and were bicycling through the area. The woman spoke French well and said they might want to stay an extra day due to the forecast. We also spoke with our hostess who said she and her husband have been running the B&B for four years. We told her how much we loved the rooms. Everything was perfect. 

One last view of the gite in Briare, France.

We left for the five minute drive to Briare in the chilly rain, glad that the luncheon cruise was "covered". We were very glad that Muriel was feeling well enough for her to join us, as this was to be our treat for her, Thierry, and Mathieu. Sort of a payback for the many wonderful meals they have prepared for us over the years. They were waiting in their car near the basin. We opened our umbrellas and had only a short wait before we were admitted on board the boat. The high windows beside each group of tables began to fog over as the salon filled with new arrivals. Nearly all of them were French. No concession was made for those who didn't speak the language. It didn't matter, though, because we had Desmond and Mathieu. Thierry knows some English and speaks it well. He can understand much more. I was seated across from Muriel and even though the boat was noisy with chattering diners and the rumble of the engines, both Craig and I managed to speak with her a bit. 

The boat on which we enjoyed a luncheon cruise. 

We are seated on the boat and ready to go!

As the boat pulled away from the dock, we were all thrilled when it went halfway into the Pont du Canal. We had just walked along it the night before. Then, our craft pulled forward and began to navigate the canal. I was delighted when I learned that we would be passing through three locks and then returning the same way. Our boat even went past the gite where we had stayed! Our hosts were standing outside, waving as we cruised by. 

Our captain guiding the boat out of the basin.

It was interesting to pass through the locks.

We were soon served glasses of kir and we raised our flutes in a toast to families and friendships. The first course appeared as we gazed out of the windows. Each small plate was arranged with cold cuts, pickles, and two slices of baguette on which were spread rillettes and tapenade. We were off to a good start.

It's time for a toast!

And for starters...

Thierry bought a bottle of Sancerre wine, which was very good. We also had a red wine that was provided by the cruise, in addition to a carafe of water. As we dined, we paused to take pictures, and sometimes to go out onto the small back deck which had a canopy over it. Most of my photos were shot through the window by the table, which not only had rain running down the outside, but also condensation on the inside. I think I got some interesting photos though, both inside and out.

A little wine to accompany our meal.

A shot of the B & B through a rainy window.

It was fascinating to go through the locks. I thought I would feel claustrophobic when we were lowered down into them, but it was fine. We next had the main course, which was paupiettes de veau in a mushroom cream sauce, creamy potatoes Dauphinois, and a vegetable medley which consisted of carrots, green beans, and salsify. Salsify was called oyster root by the colonists because it does have a slight oyster flavor. Everything was seasoned perfectly, and we all enjoyed that portion of the meal. Along the banks of the river we saw bright yellow wild iris, wild carrot in flower, and several other varieties of flowers.

The main course was delicious!

At some point, we each got up to take a peek outside from the deck, which was protected from the rain. It was fun to watch the operation of the locks. The mighty gates opened and closed as we were raised and lowered according to the height of the canal. Before long, the cheese course was served. Thankfully, the servings were small, but even so, I couldn't finish mine. There was a slice of gruyere, a wedge of Camembert, and a slice of mild goat cheese, with bread to go with it. By then we had been through several locks and were not far from our starting point. 

Now, it's time for the cheese course! 

Passing through another lock.

We were interested in how the locks operate.

Closing the gates.

What an interesting way to travel!

A "ritzy" barge tied up in the basin.

As the cruise was coming to an end, dessert was brought to the table. It was a tiny chocolate caramel lava cake, sitting in a pool of sweet cream. Delightful! And then small cups of espresso accompanied by a little Gallette cookie. We had such a good time, with great company and a delicious meal. Who cares if it's raining?

The dreary day didn't dampen our spirits.

And for dessert - little lava cakes!

As the boat was nearing the dock, many of the people on board began to sing a rousing French song. I didn't understand the lyrics, though I enjoyed listening. We left the boat and all went into the gift shop. I found a tiny owl figurine for mom. Des bought a striped French sailor jacket. As we were saying goodbye to Matt, Muriel and Thierry, she put a package into my hands, and one for Craig. She gave him some wonderful cookies, some of which are called croquet and are delightfully crunchy with a great flavor. I wasn't familiar with the rest, but Des said they would be delicious! Muriel presented me with a cute little owl couple. Muriel and I both love owls. She is so sweet. We had enjoyed spending the afternoon with her and the guys. 

Our boat returns home.
 

On the way home we stopped at a pet store to pick up food for Azur. There was a beautiful Norwegian Forest kitten for sale for €1140!!! It was adorable, and so sweet. It kept trying to play with me through the glass. Later, Arno came over for snacks and drinks. We were still not very hungry, so we nibbled on sausage, cheese, chips, and some grape tomatoes that Desmond drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Craig and Arno played a game, an app called Progress to 100. Desmond had shown it to me before. It was a hoot watching them figure out how to answer each riddle. Des showed Arno his amethyst collection, which he was very intrigued by. And he fell in love with his collection of I Spy books, so Des loaned him a couple. All in all, it was a fabulous day. 

Guédelon, Medieval Castle Under Construction

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, May 22, 2016

I was awakened during the night by the sounds of a thunderstorm. Those never last long in the Loire Valley, and it soon eased to a gentle rain. By morning, the rain had ended and the sky was overcast. The three of us enjoyed coffee, fresh orange juice, and a variety of pastries before packing for an overnight jaunt to Briare.

Religieuse, or nun. A delightful pastry.

The drizzle resumed as we traveled along the Loire toward Gien, enjoying the views of the river through rain-splashed windows. It was time for lunch when we reached Gien. We chose La Bella Vita again, as Craig had never eaten there. We sloshed through puddles and entered the cozy restaurant, where we were seated in a plush booth next to two women who had a 15-month-old boy with them. The little fellow took quite a shine to Craig. He even shared his tiny toy motorcycle with him. He kept calling Craig "uncle", which we all thought was simply adorable.

We enjoyed our leisurely lunch, with Desmond and I sharing a pizza called "la fermiere", which translates to "the farmer". It was a delicious combination of potatoes, chicken, onions, and cheese on a light, crisp crust that had been slathered with cream. Craig chose the pizza tartiflette, which was the one I had devoured on a previous visit.  

The rest of our journey didn't take long. We continued through some lovely countryside until we reached the site of Guédelon, medieval castle under construction. I had been longing to visit for quite some time, and even though a light rain was falling, we all looked forward to the living history before us. We purchased rain ponchos in the gift shop and set out to explore the building site. Though the rain never let up, we doggedly squished through puddles and mud that was sometimes yellow, sometimes orange, sometimes rust. However, even a dreary, soggy day could not deter us from marveling at the castle construction.

Entering the construction site of  Guedelon Castle.

It's possible to tour most of the rooms inside.

Guédelon is being constructed using the methods and tools of the medieval age. A force of talented artisans work with replicas of age-old tools to quarry, cut, and dress the stone used to build the castle. Workers in medieval costume perform tasks of pottery making, rope braiding, planing lumber, mixing paint, and a multitude of other jobs that are essential to the building of a castle.

A worker making tools for dressing stone.

A very hardworking horse carted loads of freshly quarried stone. There were men and women working in the tower, using a pulley system to take tools and supplies up and down. A human-powered wheel was used to raise and lower platforms and heavier items. In spite of the rain, the construction site was a hive of activity!

The horse delivers a cart-load of stone.

Ongoing construction at Guedelon Castle.

All of this lumber was planed by hand. 

A lovely scene at Guedelon Castle in France.

We toured as much of the interior of the castle as was permitted. It was a marvel! Some rooms had lovely painted details of flowers and scrolls. The chapel was beautiful, with accents of carved stone. We saw how the heavy wooden doors were constructed and locked against intruders. There was so much to see!

The paints were made on site.

Window seats for reading or reflection.

This is how to bolt a medieval door!

Lovely stonework in the chapel at Guedelon.

Following pathways through the forest, we discovered displays and other interesting aspects of the ongoing work. There were huts in which colorful rocks were crushed to a fine powder for use as paint. We saw a woman dyeing wool in a huge vat over a smoldering fire. We watched a potter using a wheel to create beautiful bowls, pots, and jars. The wheel was powered by a long pole that he inserted into a notch, pushing the wheel as if stirring a huge pot, until it spun at an amazing speed. It was over a minute before the wheel needed another push. We all enjoyed our visit tremendously and are interested in returning to see how far the building has progressed. 

The hut where fabric is woven and dyed.

Colorful hanks of yarn are hung to dry.

This is where paints and dyes are made from plants and stones.

A talented potter at Guedelon.

Every thickness of rope and twine
 are made at the building site.

A lovely view of the castle from the forest.

At 5:00, we ended our tour and drove the short distance to a wonderful B & B that Des had found. It was an absolutely charming stone house situated right on the canal, above one of the locks. I wish the weather had been nice enough to permit us to walk along the canal or sit on the beautiful terrace overlooking the river. As it was, I kept jumping up to peek out the window, hoping to see a boat or barge going through the lock. 

A view of the lock in front of the B & B near Briare.

Our connecting rooms were a delight! The decor was tastefully done and the entire place was scrupulously clean. The old beams and sloping walls created a welcoming ambiance. The bathrooms were large and as clean as the rest of the place. And of course, the views out the windows were lovely.

The cozy sleeping area at our gite in Briare, France.

The kettle and packets of coffee
 and tea were a nice surprise. 

Another view at the B & B in Briare, France.

After a short rest, we drove to the town of Briare, just five minutes away. We would have walked, had the weather been more cooperative. Being Sunday, not all of the restaurants were open, but we found a bistro on the waterfront where we had our evening meal. We all chose the plat du jour, which was a turkey cutlet in a mushroom cream sauce, with buttered pasta on the side. In France, when you see a menu offering "poultry" as a selection, you can be fairly certain that you are being offered turkey. For dessert, I chose a crepe made with peaches, toasted almonds, and Grand Marnier. Yum! Or as the French would say "miam!" Des had a very colorful crepe made with swirls of chocolate and mint liqueur and topped with mint ice cream. Craig chose a sundae of pears and chocolate. 

A colorful crepe for dessert.

Before driving back to the B & B, we walked along the Pont du Canal. The canal bridge is a fascinating feat of engineering, built in the 1800's by Gustave Eiffel. We walked the length of the bridge and back again, becoming chilled in the damp breeze. We were glad to return to the cozy gite alongside the canal and settle in for the night. A rousing game of "Pass the Pigs" was a fun way to end the day. 

Desmond walks along the Pont du Canal.

Travel Tip: Pack some lightweight galoshes!

  

Beautiful Briare

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: April 21, 2015

When visiting France in April of 2014, I was amazed at the incredibly beautiful spring days following one upon the other like perfect pearls on a string. I was told that this wasn't quite normal, and that the weather can often be cool and rainy during that time. I was certain that in 2015, I could not possibly be so lucky. However, once again I awoke to yet another jewel of a day. As a Kansan, I appreciated every minute of that loveliness. We don't often have day after day of glorious spring weather. Instead, our springtime consists of a few lovely days broken up by thunderstorms and even tornadoes. Or sometimes, it's just plain windy. Or the temperature soars unexpectedly. Not so in the beautiful Loire valley. I'm sure that Desmond must have grown tired of my constant exclamations of wonder at the near-perfect weather we experienced. 

Our morning began with a visit from a friend, Tonio, who showed up at the door with fresh pain au chocolat. We had a nice chat with him over the pastries and coffee, though I wished his wife, Auralie, could have been there as well. After breakfast, Desmond and I walked over to the market to pick up items for a picnic that we had planned with Mathieu and his parents. We were to meet them in Briare later in the day. It was nice of Matt to do the driving. 

When it was time for lunch, Des pulled out his tabletop grill, and together we cooked all of the bulgogi that we had been unable to eat the night before. It was a fun meal, and quite delicious! We had rice and vegetables to round it out. Of course, there was plenty of leftover pork, which would later go into Bento boxes.

When Mathieu arrived, we gathered our picnic food, tablecloth, and other items and took off on a lovely drive to Briare. The population of Briare is around 7,000 inhabitants. Located on the banks of the Loire, it is a charming canal town. We found Thierry and Muriel near the Port de Plaisance, which was crowded with pleasure craft. The scene was lovely and peaceful. There were pots of flowers lining the basin, and on the boats we passed as we walked along the canal. On some of the boats, there were people lounging in deck chairs in the shade of the trees which surround the waterfront. 

Looking toward the waterfront along the canal in Briare, France.

There is a fascinating feature of the canals in Briare. It is a canal bridge. Not just a bridge over a canal, but a bridge which carries the canal itself, by means of a series of locks, up over the river and across. This amazing aqueduct was constructed in the late 1800s by Gustave Eiffel. There are towpaths on either side of it, which are now used as pedestrian sidewalks to traverse the bridge. We enjoyed walking the entire length of it. The views are lovely, though I was hoping that we would see a boat come through. At the far end was a large flock of sheep in a hillside meadow, and we could see the sheepdogs running about, directing them. Just below was another field of sheep, many of them with lambs beside them. Des commented that, if he hadn't seen the animals, he would have thought their bleating came from humans pretending to be sheep, because they made such funny sounds. They had high notes and very low tones, and one even sounded as if it were mooing! One of them was very hoarse and sounded rather pathetic.  

 The canal bridge was constructed by Gustave Eiffel.

 On the canal bridge, looking over the Loire.

It's a fascinating structure and worth a visit to Briare.

A lovely village scene in Briare, France.

We located a picnic table near the river, where we had a great time talking and eating. We were visited by a pair of ducks, begging for food. We laughed at the frogs, though we couldn't actually see them in the reeds, because they were serenading in such varied and funny voices (much like the talkative sheep). We saw a cormorant diving for food in the river. Our meal was good. We began with chips, olives, and crackers. We drank cider or fruit juice as we ate the chicken wings, potato salad, tabbouleh, carrot salad and sandwiches. Desmond had brought along baguettes from his favorite artisan bakery. One was a sesame bread and one a poppy seed. We had plenty of ham, pâté, onion jam, salami, Brittany butter, and Gouda cheese to stuff into the wonderful baguettes. We finished the meal with brownies. I'm so glad that I was able to enjoy the company of Muriel and Thierry again.