Distractions

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 29 2018

We awoke after a restless night of tears and little sleep. Desmond had slipped out early and picked up an assortment of pastries, which I vaguely remember choosing from. I think we were all a bit numb by then.

The previous afternoon, Craig had been successful in his attempts to change our plane tickets. He and I would be able to return to Kansas on January 1 so that we could make funeral arrangements for the woman who had meant so much to all of us. The wonderful clerk at Delta Airlines had gone above and beyond with her kind and compassionate assistance. Desmond, too, did more than his share. He insisted on returning to Orléans on the train that night, where he packed up our things and cleaned our little AirBnB. He explained to our host what had occurred and then after a few hours sleep in his own home, boarded a return train for Lyon. It was a loving gesture and was much appreciated.

Though the three of us were numb with grief, we chose to soldier on. What we lacked in exuberance, we made up for in a dogged determination to continue with what remained of our vacation. We met up with Florent for a tour of the traboules, the secret passageways which were very important during the many years of silk trade in Lyon. The covered walkways and staircases were used to transport the silk, thus keeping the delicate fabric safe from the elements. It was intriguing to explore a few of the traboules and learn something about the architecture of old Lyon. I regret that I didn't get any interior photos of the traboules, but it was shadowy inside and the floors were a bit uneven.

Waiting for our tour to begin

Our morning tour ended at a silk weavers museum in which it was possible to view the actual silk screening process. It was much more involved than I had imagined and the end products of hand-painted silks were astonishingly beautiful. Scarves, ties, and garments were available for purchase, though most were way out of my price range. I can’t say that tears were not shed as we explored the museum and the beautiful area in which the buildings for the huge looms had been built years ago. Many times, I encountered things that I knew my mother would have been delighted to see.

Explaining the silk-screening process

Silk being painted by hand; a tedious
 process with a beautiful result!

The finished product will be stunning!

The four of us lunched at Crock n Roll, a trendy bistro which served many unique croque sandwiches, along with craft beer and other tasty offerings. I chose the croque Germain. which was made with smoked ham, emmental cheese, and bechamel. It was a nice break with good food and great company.

Croque monsieur Germain

A fountain near city hall in Lyon, France

After lunch, we made our way up to La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere on the high hill, using the crowded funicular. I was grateful to ride up the steep hillside instead of having to walk. I doubt I could have done it! The cathedral was lovely, though oddly built. It had been criticized during its construction in the 1800s and was said to resemble an elephant lying on its back! Inside were some fabulous mosaics. The afternoon had become rather chilly, with an unwelcome breeze which cut right through my jacket. We warmed ourselves with coffee and hot chocolate and some delightful pastries purchased from a small establishment next to the basilica.

The basilica on the hill above Lyon

 Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Lovely artwork inside the cathedral

The Roman ruins and museum were next, and had been high on our list of must-see attractions in Lyon. We were not disappointed. The theater, which had been built for plays and concerts over 2,000 years ago, was large and in surprisingly good condition. There was a good view of the city from its position on the hillside.

One of the ancient Roman theaters in Lyon

The museum was fascinating and was filled with hundreds of objects which were discovered locally. It is said that even now, people are likely to discover coins, pottery shards, or other artifacts simply while digging in their own gardens! I was most impressed by the glassware. Some of those pieces were of colored glass and were ornamented with scrolled handles or other decoration. Amazingly, many were completely intact. I also liked the little oil lamps which were made from the local stone. Replicas were available in the gift shop, and I very nearly bought one.

A detailed floor mosaic from Roman times

Remains of a Roman cart used to trasport wine-filled urns

Our evening meal was at a restaurant which served crepes, something we can never seem to get enough of. I enjoyed a hearty tartiflette gallette which was followed by a decadent salted caramel crepe.

It had been an interesting day, filled with hours of unique sights. We had been distracted from our grief for a while, and that was a good thing.

Heartbreak

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, December 28 2019

Craig and I awoke early and went to Desmond’s for breakfast. We were all excited to be going to Lyon for a few days. After a quick bite, we carried our small cases downstairs to await the driver. Instead of the train, Des had reserved space for us through a ride-share app. We were soon met by a very nice man and were on our way. Our driver spoke no English, but with Desmond sitting up front there was never a communication problem. 

I enjoyed the scenery as we passed through towns and countryside. The closer we got to Lyon, the more beautiful it became. We stopped for a bathroom break about three hours into the drive. The little roadside rest area had only a squat latrine, which is often referred to as a Turkish toilet. I was dismayed, as it had no handrail or anything to hold onto; not even a nearby wall to lean on! If I were young and spry, it would have been no problem. I made the best of it and managed not to fall over. 

On our way again, the scenery became craggy and rugged. The mountains were visible through the mist. Just before reaching our destination we stopped at a modern rest area which had large, clean restrooms. Upon reaching Lyon, our courteous driver let us out at Place Bellecour, where we could visit the tourism office and purchase a packet of tickets for the metro. It would have been wonderful to see the square during the Christmas market, as I had heard it was a good one.

The Ferris wheel at Place Bellecour, Lyon.

Even on a grey day, Lyon is lovely.

After that, it was a fairly short walk to our AirBnB. It was located near the top of a steep, narrow cobbled road and the apartment itself was up three long flights of stairs. It was roomy and had lots of personality, though it was a bit chilly. 

We enjoyed this cute little apartment in Lyon.

Our cozy bedroom in Lyon, France

We stowed our bags and then set out to find something to eat. After our six-hour drive we were definitely ready for lunch. The only place open nearby was a kebab shop and that was fine with us. We devoured the veal kebab sandwiches and crispy fries in the cozy restaurant and then set out to explore. 

A warm and filling lunch

A pretty street on Lyon, France

We had decided on a double-decker bus tour and had a little time to kill before boarding, so we walked around for a bit. We purchased some delectable pastries at an artisanal patisserie. I chose a Mont Blanc, which was a concoction of chestnut cream, meringue, and pastry cream. I had just thrown the wrapper away when my phone rang. My heart jolted when I saw that the call was from my mother’s hospice nurse. I knew it was bad news. 

Craig and Desmond knew how bad it was by my reaction. Our only comfort was that our sweet Ruby had passed away swiftly and peacefully. We immediately made our way back to the apartment, sobbing and trying to support each other. The rest of that day was a blur. We called our daughters and one of my sisters, who said she would inform the rest of the family. I vaguely remember Desmond handing me a hot drink and Craig making phone calls to the airline. Desmond went out later and picked up food for the three of us, but I have no memory of what we ate. 

To lose a loved one so suddenly when we were thousands of miles away was particularly heartbreaking. Stunned, bleary-eyed, and inconsolable, we cried ourselves to sleep. 

A Day for Friends

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, December 27 2019

Waking to a chilly morning, we were grateful for the warm radiators in our little apartment. They kept us very cozy as we sipped our coffee. Craig enjoyed his online newspaper while I composed a couple of email messages for loved ones back home.

We joined Desmond for a bit of grocery shopping, and of course we had to pick up some pastries on our way home. I chose a lemon turnover which was delightful. 

Around noon, we made our way to the Rue de Bourgogne so that we could have lunch at Chez Ming. It had definitely become a tradition for us during every visit to Orléans. It was good to see Miranda again. She always makes us feel very welcome and it’s obvious that she has a genuine affection for Des. As usual, the freshly prepared food was wonderful. 

In the afternoon, we met up with Desmond’s friend and colleague, Isobel, at a new tea shop called Ex Libris. We enjoyed tea and hot chocolate in a cozily cluttered atmosphere stuffed with books, art, unique decorative objects, and charming mismatched furniture. Festive Christmas decorations added to the ambiance. The service was slow, but we chalked it up to the staff still learning the ropes at a fledgling business. The four of us visited comfortably, chatting about the holidays and our upcoming journey to Lyon. I don't know why I didn't take pictures in the tea shop, because it really was very charming.

Cathedral St Croix on a misty day.

That evening, Chris came over for dinner, bringing his toddler son along. We were delighted to see them both. Robin was adorable and very entertaining; we loved hearing him chatter in a mixture of French and English. Our apéro of chips, sausage, and pate en croute was accompanied by a refreshing fruity beer. That was followed by Desmond's delicious pot au feu, served with bread, butter and mustard. We talked, laughed, and lingered around the table for quite some time, and finished the meal with Christmas goodies of chocolates and “puppy chow”. 

Desmond relaxing at home.

Not Much, How About You?

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday December 26 2018

Craig and I slept in, having been up quite late on Christmas Day. The comfy king-sized bed was a warm nest from which it was difficult to arise. Eventually, we stirred enough to brew coffee and then just lazed around, sipping from hefty mugs and nibbling on madeleines. We straightened the house and put away our gifts before walking over to Desmond’s for lunch. We made sandwiches from the delicious leftover chicken and helped ourselves to braised chestnuts and even some decadent foie gras. 

I may have nibbled on
 a couple of these, too. 

Azur looks comfy!

The three of us were up for a walk, and ambled into town where we passed the quiet, closed Christmas market and the skating rink which was still in use. We visited a couple of bookstores and at the Canadian import shop we purchased a package of fragrant maple cookies. Heading back toward home, a quick stop at the boulangerie provided tasty éclairs to accompany our afternoon coffee.

The ice skating rink was a temporary
 installation for the holiday season. 

That evening, we all treated Desmond’s friend and neighbor Mathieu to dinner. It was a brisk, cold night and we were glad to take the tram to Courtepaille. Des had mentioned that it was Mathieu’s favorite restaurant. We all enjoyed our meals of salad, steak, and fries, accompanied by tasty cocktails. Mathieu has a good sense of humour and is fun to talk to. He invited us back to his place for a dessert of pastries. I chose an opera cake which was as delicious as it was attractive. Mathieu had recently moved to the apartment in a building adjacent to Desmond’s. It was roomier than his previous apartment and had obviously been recently renovated. He said he was quite comfortable there and was still near his friends. 

When we left for our own little apartment, I was glad we didn’t have far to walk. The evening was very cold and a stiff breeze had sprung up. Before long, we were snuggled into our warm bed. 

Christmas Day in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, Dec. 25 2018

Christmas Day dawned sunny but cold. Our first thoughts were on our other loved ones back home, though it was much too early to call any of them. We hoped that someone would be visiting mom in the nursing home. It's possible that she may not have realized that it was Christmas day, but she still deserved attention from her family, regardless. Craig and I had coffee together before walking over to Desmond's place. He greeted us with steaming mugs of rich hot chocolate. The house looked very festive, with the fat stockings on the mantel and twinkling lights on the tree. 

Christmas day in Orleans France

With Christmas carols playing in the background, the three of us took our time opening gifts and "unstuffing" our Christmas stockings. There was lots of laughter and plenty of nice surprises. Desmond especially loved the apron we had given him. It was from the Mennonite Heritage Museum in Goessel, Kansas and featured embroidered zwieback on the bib. Those little rolls, translated as "two breads" are a popular addition to many Mennonite meals.

Desmond tries on his new apron.

Azur joined the festivities.

Because this was the first sunny day since our arrival in France, we decided to go for a walk. The town was very quiet, as I'm sure many families were occupied in the same manner as we had been. Even though the temperature hovered at the freezing mark, we still enjoyed our little stroll. 

In the afternoon, Jeff and Arno arrived within minutes of each other. It was wonderful to have them with us for at least a part of the holiday. We poured drinks and nibbled on Christmas goodies as we chatted. Des was popping into the kitchen at intervals, and some very enticing aromas were filling the air. He really went all out to prepare a magnificent Christmas feast.

We began our meal with apéro, which consisted of more drinks accompanied by a beautifully arranged planche heaped with sausage, pistachios, Gouda walnut crackers, figs, escargot crackers, tiny pickles, and pate en croute. That kept us occupied for a while! Our next course was smoked trout blini. It was very tasty and I preferred it over smoked salmon. We were off to a great start.

What a great start to our meal!

After a while, Desmond presented us with a lovely tray of foie gras with plenty of toasted brioche accompanied by little pots of sea salt, onion confit and fig jam. By this point, I was feeling the need for another walk!

The foie gras was irresistible.

As the festive meal continued, Desmond served a tender, juicy, cider roasted capon, along with sweet potato casserole, braised chestnuts, and fresh, soft rolls. The capon stole the show; it was simply delectable. 

The delightful main course.

The traditional cheese course followed that sumptuous spread. Des had arranged the Gouda, goat cheese, and a tasty local cheese from Olivet on a tray with plenty of seeded crackers to go with it. I enjoyed sampling the cheese, but didn’t overdo it as I knew dessert was still to come. 

Time for some tasty cheese

Jeff had contributed spicy mince pies from Marks and Spencer for dessert, and we also had a layered ice cream cake. The champagne was poured and we all toasted the season as we savored the last bites of that incredible meal. How wonderful it was to share that time with our son and his friends, who over the years have become our friends, too. It was indeed a very special Christmas Day. 

Time for a toast. 

Flavorful mince pies

And ice cream cake to end the meal

Our Christmas Eve in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, Dec. 24 2018

Christmas Eve! It was strange not to be at home for Christmas; it was definitely a first for us. Craig and I were thrilled to be spending the holiday in France with our son. I had switched on the two sparkling Christmas trees in our apartment before I headed into the kitchen to make coffee. The tree provided by our host was in the place of honor atop the mantel and was surrounded by some of the small gifts I had wrapped previously. I had hung our stockings there to complete the festive look, though we would take them to Desmond’s house later. The tiny tree was on our little dining table and provided another touch of color. 

Des came over with a box of pastries. The kouigin-amann was a delectable surprise. That sweet, flaky, buttery pastry is a traditional Breton delight. We also shared a yummy lemon tart as we planned our day. 

The kouigin-amann is a delight!

We had some grocery shopping to do, but first needed to stop at the pet shop to purchase food for Azur. As the three of us were approaching the shop, we saw a little girl leaving with her parents. Her eyes were sparkling and in her arms she cradled a large water-filled plastic bag in which a goldfish was swimming. The child had a huge smile on her face and both of her arms were wrapped around the bag protectively. As she lagged behind her parents, we saw her lift the bag and put her cheek against it as she gave it a gentle hug. She hugged her goldfish! That was one of the cutest things we had ever seen. For the rest of the day, one or the other of us would break into a smile or chuckle as we recalled it. It’s too bad her parents missed that special moment. 

Lost in translation?

The grocery store was very crowded, as we knew it would be, but it was fun. The store was packed with shoppers milling about selecting delicacies for their holiday feasts, while wide-eyed children waited in line to chat with Pere Noël. We wove through the crowds and managed to find everything we needed. After returning to Desmond’s place, we put away the groceries and then Des whipped up a lunch of vegetarian steak patties, potato puffs, and clémentines.

Those aren't cucumbers, they're avocados!

After laundry and a few other chores, we couldn’t resist a final visit to the Christmas market. The three of us bundled up and walked into the center of town. Of course, everyone had the same idea and the square was crowded with families. 

Enticing aromas of waffles, tartiflette, and roasted chestnuts wafted through the square. The hut with the biggest crowd was the one selling mulled wine, but the line moved quickly and we were soon sipping cups of that warm, spiced wine. Our next stop was for hot roasted chestnuts, which were scooped into a paper cone. Yum! 

Mulled wine is very popular on a chilly evening.

Craig and Des enjoying hot mulled wine
 at the Christmas market in Orleans, France

Roasted chestnuts were a treat

As sunset approached, we decided to ride the Ferris wheel. The lights on the candy striped-wheel were sparkling, as were the ones hung in swags from the wooden huts on the square. We enjoyed the view, though we were becoming chilled. It was time retrace our steps back across the bridge.

A view of the Christmas market from the Ferris Wheel

Another view from the big wheel

In France, most families have an elaborate meal on Christmas eve. Des had planned differently since he wanted to include Jeff and also Arno, who were not available until Christmas Day. He put together a quick and delicious cheese fondue for our Christmas Eve supper. There were chunks of baguette, salami, ham, cooked potato, apple, and blanched broccoli to dip into the melted cheese. There was chocolate fondue for dessert, which we ate with caramel corn, pieces of waffle, and slices of banana and orange. It was a fun and festive meal. 

Christmas Eve fondue

We ended the evening by watching nostalgic Christmas shows, after which we stuffed the stockings and propped them carefully on the mantel. It had been such a fun day. 

Wrapping Up

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, Dec. 23 2018

Our little neighborhood bakery was closed on Sundays, so Craig and Desmond walked several blocks to le Lys d’Or to pick up pastries for breakfast. They brought me a tasty almond croissant which I thoroughly enjoyed. 

A rustic almond croissant

The guys had decided that they needed to do some more shopping. I remained at Desmond’s to wrap presents. I put on some Christmas music and soon got into a rhythm. Azur kept me company, and before long, the gifts were nestled beneath the tree.

Azur with his nose almost touching the radiator

Des and Craig returned at noon with goodies for our lunch. We enjoyed slices of baguette served with our choice of duck mousse, chicken rillettes, or ham and cheese alongside some tangy cornichons. Sweet, juicy clementines made a refreshing dessert. 

The weather continued to be quite chilly and even though a bright sun was shining, there was enough of a breeze to make one really feel the cold. Des and Craig bundled up again since they had just a bit more shopping to do. I remained in the apartment and caught up on email and messages home. 

That evening, Desmond made a quick and easy dinner of beef ravioli in a homemade sauce. A fresh baguette and rich Normandy butter went well with it. We ended the day with a game of Rummikub. How nice it was to do these ordinary things with our son. Our limited time together is always precious.

Shopping and Eating. What's Not to Like?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 22 2018

After coffee and Madeleines, Craig and I made our way to Desmond’s where we enjoyed more coffee with some chocolate and banana breakfast cookies that our son had made.The plan for the day was to get serious about Christmas shopping. We decided it would be best to split up, so Craig and Des headed for the Christmas market while I wandered around town. I enjoyed popping into interesting little shops and choosing small items for stocking stuffers.

Craig captured this view from the Ferris wheel.

At lunchtime, we met at the little noodle shop on the square near Desmond’s apartment. We watched the owner making fresh noodles as our own dishes were being prepared by his wife. When our food arrived, we eagerly dug into the garlicky noodles, pork, and vegetables. It was a delicious and satisfying lunch. As we were eating, the little cat who lives in the building next to Desmond came to the door of the noodle shop, begging for a handout. The owners told us that this little "stray" shows up every day and they just couldn't resist her. Lily was busted when Des explained that she was not a stray, and we all had a good laugh! I'm surprised the cat isn't overweight, because she always looking for a bit to eat at the different establishments on the square.

Fresh noodles? Yes, please!

A delicious lunchtime treat

After our meal, Craig went out shopping alone while Des and I teamed up and headed back into town. We had such a good time, and Des took me to some unique shops I hadn’t visited before. I am always eager to step into the chocolate shops! The aroma alone is a treat. They have such enticing displays and really go over the top at Christmas, which makes those beautiful little works of edible art even more irresistible. One shop even had a chocolate waterfall pouring down an inside wall! 

A pretty side street in Orléans

Later, we spotted Arno and a friend of his at the Christmas market. We shopped a bit with them and then decided to meet Craig at le Lutetia for coffee. We sat there for quite a while, enjoying our hot drinks in the bustling restaurant.

Père Noël is in charge of this roller coaster!

Oh, coffee, I love you too!

 
After returning to Desmond’s place, we had an easy meal of egg sandwiches and chips. We ended the evening with a board game before heading home to our own little nest. 

Cuddles with Azur