Simple Things

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, April 25 2022

We awoke to a beautiful morning and the sweet sounds of birds chirping in the courtyard below. A tarte citron, coffee, and milk made a yummy breakfast. We didn’t have big plans for the day, as Desmond would have to go to work that afternoon. A long walk beside the Loire that morning was just perfect and the weather couldn’t have been better. 

A pretty blooming tree

Swans float serenely on the Loire.

Craig and Desmond on the river path

On the way home, we cut through the Jardin des Plantes and enjoyed seeing the gorgeous blooms and unique plants. Des veered off to a market to pick up items for lunch, while Craig and I ambled through the gardens. 

For lunch, Desmond made a delicious dish of goat cheese ravioli topped with grilled eggplant. He left for work while Craig took a nap. I threw a load of clothes into the washer and after Craig awoke we had afternoon coffee and a game of Scrabble before taking our clothes to a nearby laundromat to dry. The laundromat was directly across from the Loire, so we had a nice view while we waited for our clothes to dry. 

Desmond had made pizza dough before he left the house, and for dinner that evening we had a treat. Pizzaclettes! This was a little invention of his, using a raclette oven to bake the dough. We then cut the dough into small wedges and topped them with fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, red bell pepper, and grilled eggplant. The filled raclette trays were placed under the heat until the cheese bubbled. It was such a fun and tasty meal. For dessert, we enjoyed oranges and some bread topped with Desmond’s homemade chocolate spread.

Pizzaclettes!

Baking pizza in the raclettes oven

Back to Orleans

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, April 24 2022

We were up early to clean our apartment prior to catching a train to Orléans. It didn’t take long, and soon we were in an Uber on the way to Gare d'Austerlitz. The train station was nearly unrecognizable with all the construction going on inside. We had to weave our way through a maze of partitions and closed-off areas just to find the waiting room. We purchased coffee and something to munch on. We were glad to leave the noisy station and board a quiet, comfortable train. As we rolled through Paris, I listened to the happy chatter of some children who were seated nearby. It looked as if they were on an outing with grandma. After about an hour, we arrived in Orleans and made our way to Desmond’s home by tram. It was wonderful to be back and we greeted Azur with soft pats and a scratch under the chin. He such a sweet and cuddly cat.

 

Flags in support of Ukraine line the street
leading to the cathedral in Orleans

A familiar sight in Orleans.
It was good to be back!

I unpacked as Desmond prepared lunch using ingredients he had on hand. He created noodle bowls made with a delicious sauce and some roasted sweet potato along with a fried egg. It was a tasty lunch. That afternoon, we went for a lovely walk along the Loire. We followed a path along the river, and it was quite peaceful down there below street level. 

Desmond in the woods along the Loire

A peaceful scene along the Loire

This was our view from
the little riverfront bar in Orleans.

After a while we climbed stairs up to a sidewalk and continued on to a little outdoor bar. A cold beer and a view of the river made for a pleasant break. For dinner that evening, Desmond served brandade de morue. It was a dish of cod and potatoes mashed together with olive oil and then baked. It was very good. He served it with some creamed spinach, and we had clementines for dessert. We watched some cute videos on TV and then Craig went to bed. Desmond and I stayed up a while longer, chatting while he played a video game. He made a little snack for us of his homemade cashew butter which he spread onto a piece of dark chocolate.  A small glass of fresh raw milk went well with that tasty treat!

A sleepy Azur

A Perfect Day in Paris

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday 04-23-22

We began our day with coffee and nibbled on some bread and snack cakes. Rain was in the forecast, but we didn't let that threat slow us down. Des had a treat in store for us. Our son told us that we were going to Angelina for what he said was the best hot chocolate in Paris. We rode the metro to a stop not far from the famous tea room, which is located on the Rue de Rivoli across from the Tuileries. A visit to Angelina is an indulgence not to be missed. For over a century, those elegant rooms have hosted aristocrats and celebrities from all over the world. After the very first sip, I was entranced by that hot chocolate. It was as decadent as Desmond had described, yet not overly sweet and was served with a dish of whipped cream on the side. The interior of Angelina is absolutely gorgeous and the salon in which we were seated was beautifully serene and sophisticated. What a lovely way to begin our last day in Paris! 

The hot chocolate at Angelina
 is not to be missed!

After leaving Angelina, we entered the Jardin des Tuileries, where we would meet Vincent for the first time. Since we had arrived a bit early, we wandered the beautiful landscaped grounds. The extensive gardens were created by Catherine de Medici in 1667 but were only opened to the public after the revolution. We passed the colorful carousel as we strolled the wide, graveled pathways and paused at a large fountain where many delighted children were playing with little rented sailboats, pushing them out into water using dowels. The wide basin of the fountain was ringed with chairs, where parents and grandparents watched their little ones. It was a scene which had been played out for over 170 years. 

The charming carousel at the Tuileries in Paris

Sail a boat in the fountain at
 the Tuileries in Paris

As we continued on, we admired the beautiful flower beds, statuary, and manicured trees. Before long, we saw Vincent walking toward us, looking quite handsome in his uniform. He carried a colorful package which contained an enormous praline brioche, still warm from the oven. Vincent had made a special effort to acquire this treat and we got acquainted over soft, warm hunks of the delicious bread. Afterward, the four of us strolled through the gardens, out toward the Louvre, and down to the Seine. 

There is beauty everywhere you look
 in le Jardin des Tuileries.

There were dozens of people, mostly couples, picnicking on the concrete embankment, their wicker picnic baskets and bottles of wine at hand. They relaxed in the sun, idly watching barges and tour boats floating by. Desmond and Vincent left for a short time to find something for us to eat so that the four of us could enjoy our own little picnic on the Seine. Soon we were munching baguette sandwiches and sipping soft drinks as we watched the boat traffic. 

The Louvre, across the Seine

Our lovely lunchtime view on the Seine

I had noticed that the stone wall along the river had an unusual feature. Windows! But why? I asked Vincent if he knew why there were windows set at intervals in the stone and concrete walls. I picked the right person to ask, because he answered that they were the windows of the train tunnels along the Seine. He is a conductor for the SNCF and would shortly be working a train through those very tunnels. He told us that in places the tunnel is more of an open trench. You could be walking at street level and peer over the wall to see the trains passing by. He also told us that on stormy days when the wind is high, water splashes from the Seine and through the windows onto the train.

In the lower right of this photo you can see
 one of the windows in the train tunnel along the Seine.

After our enjoyable time with Vincent he headed off to work while Craig, Desmond, and I boarded a bus to go across town where we would be attending a matinée performance of the Lion King Musical. The venue for this was the historic Mogador theater, which was inaugurated in 1913. Among the dignitaries at that opening were president James Garfield and future president Franklin Delano Roosevelt. It’s a beautiful and luxurious music theater which seats 1800 people on three tiers. The velvet-covered seats were small and very close together, with little legroom. The beautiful theater was teeming people and the air grew warm but we soon forgot our discomfort as we watched the amazing performance. It was truly magical.

The historic Mogador Theater in Paris

As we made our way out of the Mogador, I saw that the floor and seats were still spotlessly clean. There wasn’t a single empty cup or crumpled wrapper in sight. Sadly, we rarely find that kind of politeness and respect in America these days. We exited the theater to find that the forecasted rain had come and gone while we were inside. What great timing!

The metro soon delivered us to our little Montmartre apartment, where we freshened up and relaxed a bit. For dinner, we walked a few blocks to an Italian restaurant which had been recommended by our host. Piccolo Rosso Trattoria Pulcinella is a big name for such a tiny place! It was still early and we had no trouble finding a table, though it wasn't long before the restaurant was filled to capacity and waiters were passing by with heaping plates of pasta and other delights. We soon understood why the place was so popular. We had each ordered a pizza and they were outstanding! Mine was similar to a pizza Margherita, with fresh mozzarella, house-made pesto, and tomatoes, topped with fresh roquette. The crust was flavorful and tender with just the right amount of chewiness. We were all impressed and agreed that this was a place worth remembering. Too full for dessert, we waddled happily home.

Was It Inevitable?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, 04-22-22

Our first morning in France since December 2018! It was a lovely morning, too. Sunshine and a gentle breeze got us off to a great start. Desmond went to a nearby bakery where he picked up several pastries. I enjoyed a coffee éclair, some REAL strawberries, and part of a pain au chocolate. Then we were out the door to explore. 

THIS is what a strawberry should look like!
And it tasted as good as it looked.

We had planned to visit a museum. Desmond suggested the Rodin Museum because many of the sculptures are outdoors in the beautifully landscaped grounds and we wanted to be outside as much as possible. After exiting the metro, the walk to the museum was very pleasant, with the sights and sounds of a bustling morning in Paris. We arrived just as the museum opened and had a wonderful time strolling through the sculpture gardens. There were many fascinating works to view and learn about. Of course, we couldn’t miss the displays inside the beautiful building which housed many treasures and was once where Rodin lived and maintained his studio. 

Musée Rodin, with the golden dome
 of Invalides in the background

                                 

The Thinker

The Kiss

It was nearing lunchtime when we left the museum. The three of us decided to hop aboard a Batobus to get to our next destination. We disembarked at the stop for the Louvre and headed past it to find a certain restaurant in which we had lunched on a previous visit. Kadoya is a Japanese restaurant which serves amazing ramen. We found it to be as good as we had remembered. 

Delicious ramen at Kadoya

A short stroll later brought us back to the Seine where we boarded another Batobus to the Eiffel Tower stop. We went past the long lines of tourists waiting to gain entrance to the grounds beneath the tower and found a shady spot on the grassy Champs de Mars. Many people were resting there, or taking photos. Some of the visitors were picnicking, while children ran around kicking a soccer ball. A few people were napping in the shade or sunning themselves on the grass. It was a welcome break and a good time for us to put in a call to Marjorie.  

A lovely view along the Seine

There is a lot of work taking place
 in and around the Tour Eiffel.

After a while, we returned to the Batobus where we waited in a long line beside the Seine. At our next stop, we arrived at Notre Dame. The cathedral was a sad sight, still undergoing reconstruction from the tragic fire three years previously. We didn’t go near the site, but instead headed in the opposite direction. 

The restoration of Notre Dame is ongoing.

Desmond led us toward Odette, pausing along the way to show us the oldest tree in Paris.  This hardy acacia was brought from America and planted in 1601 and is said to be the mother of all the black locust trees in France. She's rather beat up from the shelling in WWII and relies on support to remain standing. We paid our respects to her and then in moments we had arrived at Odette. 

The oldest tree in Paris

Our visit to Odette was a delight!

This charming patisserie, located in a picturesque 17th century building at the end of a little cobbled lane, sells only cream puffs. They are said to be the best cream puffs in Paris, and I’m inclined to agree. They come in a variety of flavors, so we each chose two different ones and ordered coffee and hot chocolate to accompany them. There were only a few tables outside and we were happy to find a vacant one where we could enjoy our delightful treats. The building has an upper floor tearoom from which you would have a view of Notre Dame, and I believe they offer other types of pastries, too. We were happy to be outside on that gorgeous spring day.

Wish you were here?

Just a one-minute walk from Odette, you will find Shakespeare and Company. Craig and I had wanted to visit this iconic shop for many years. Desmond had been there many times and was thrilled to show us the place, and though we could not take photos inside it was a wonderful and unique experience. The legendary bookshop is a magical place and has a fascinating history. It's a must-see in Paris. 

It was a long line, but worth the wait.

We began to work our way back toward Montmartre, with the intention of picking up goodies for a picnic at Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. We boarded the metro and were halfway to Montmartre when Craig’s wallet was lifted from his front jeans pocket by a thief! All three of us had felt uneasy about the two young men who were standing so close to Des and Craig. I was seated near them as they held onto a pole on the crowded subway. As the cars began to slow, one of the men dropped his phone at Craig’s feet (as a distraction) while the other went for my husband’s wallet. Craig realized what was happening and clamped his hand over his pocket a split second too late. The subway doors opened and the two men jumped out, followed closely by Craig and Desmond. There was no time for me to hop out, but just as the doors were closing, one of the thieves jumped back in. All of that happened in about 4 seconds! I decided to follow the crook when he left the metro at the next stop. I figured that I could at least see where he met up with his buddy. He was walking quickly, and as he was about to head up the stairs to street level I realized how foolish it would be to follow the crook. All it would take was one hard shove and I’d be out of commission before our vacation had even begun. 

I turned to find a bench and wait for my husband and son. Within just a few minutes, they appeared. I knew they’d find me, as we have always had a plan that if ever any one of us missed a stop, we would all meet up at the next one. They had caught up with the first thief, who told him that it was the other guy who had the wallet. Of course he would say that, but what could Craig and Desmond have done? We set about contacting our bank and credit card companies to lock the cards. Then we walked to the nearest police station to file a report. We had a long wait, followed by the lengthy process of actually writing down all the details. Desmond was a huge help, inputting everything in French. As I waited, I noticed a distraught young man nearby filing the same kind of report with another officer. In the coming days when we shared this story, nearly every one of Desmond’s friends would nod sympathetically and say that the same thing had happened to them in Paris. They said that a pickpocket or purse-snatching is almost inevitable if you are a frequent visitor to Paris. In the end, all was well. The cards were locked in time and all Craig lost aside from the debit and credit cards were his Covid vaccine card, drivers license, and insurance cards. Those things were replaceable. The thieves didn’t even make off with any cash, as Craig always keeps his cash in another pocket. And since I had my debit card and a credit card, we were just fine. By the time we returned to Montmartre, it was too late for a picnic, so Craig and Des picked up items for another indoor feast. We played a game after dinner and then went to bed early. All things considered, it was a wonderful day.

Our lovely AirBnB was in
this building in Montmartre.

Tip: I always wear my purse cross-body, which helps prevent theft. I have heard that some thieves cut straps or cut into a shoulder bag, but I don't know of anyone who has experienced that. You could invest in a costly "theft-proof" bag, I suppose. There are many types of anti-theft clothing for men and women, and even a wallet that clips to a belt loop. My husband has arthritis in both hands which makes it difficult for him to manipulate clips, security zippers and the like. That is why he has always just carried his wallet in the usual way. Even so, I might order something for him to try on our next journey to France.

It Has Been Too Long

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal : Thursday, April 21, 2022

At last! After more than three years, we were headed once more to France. My husband and I had longed for this day, wondering when the Covid pandemic would ever allow us to travel again. Even the prospect of an 8 hour layover in Chicago didn’t dampen our enthusiasm.

We arrived in Paris around 11:00 AM. Our flight had been rather turbulent, which had made it impossible for us to sleep. Our son Desmond met us at the airport with a smile and hugs. It was so good to see him on his "home turf" and to know that we would be able to have three wonderful weeks together! We took a taxi into Montmartre, where our Airbnb was located and were pleased to learn that we would be able to check in early. Our host, Victor, was out of town but had arranged for his friend to meet us and show us around the lodging. The apartment was perfect for our needs and since it was actually the home of our host, it was filled with books, records, and many decorative touches that gave us a glimpse of the owner’s personality.

Our Airbnb was in this building in Montmartre.

After putting our luggage away, we went to lunch at Gemüse, a nearby restaurant that had been recommended by Victor. The Berlin-style kebab sandwiches were like nothing we had ever tasted! The hearty sesame bread was stuffed with flavorful chicken and so many different kinds of sautéed vegetables that we could barely pick them up. After that delightful meal, we headed toward Sacré Cœur and were soon confronted with one of the long stairways that seem to be the trademark of that area. I was forced to stop and rest several times, not because I was winded, but because of pain and tightness in my lower back. I had endured numerous procedures for back trouble for a couple of years by that time. I was determined that it would not spoil our vacation, though it might slow me down at times.

THE sandwich

A Montmartre stairway

Intriguing 3-D art beside the stairs

When we reached the area around the basilica, we were greeted with the lively notes of an accordion being played by a smiling busker. Small children were laughing and dancing around him. Everywhere we looked, there were flowers in pots or hanging baskets. Flowering trees displayed their fragrant blossoms as crowds strolled beneath them. We enjoyed the vibrant scene in Place du Tertre, where artists were busily sketching or painting, and displaying their completed wares for sale. We wandered for some time, taking in the beautiful views and the lively atmosphere which is always present there.

Sacre Coeur peeking through the trees

I enjoyed hearing the sounds
of the accordion.

We had planned to have a picnic supper in a park, but instead returned to our apartment. It was a bit of a disappointment, but my back was demanding a long rest. Desmond and Craig found a market where they picked up items for an indoor picnic. Our little supper consisted of a fresh baguette accompanied by a slab of Munster cheese, smoked cod livers, dry sausage, cherry tomatoes, fresh strawberries, and a honey almond cake. It was a fun and satisfying meal. We didn’t stay up late, as Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long travel day.

Why I Have Been Silent

All of the heart went out of me on the day my youngest sister died. I thought it was horrible losing my elderly parents, but nothing could have prepared me for the pain of losing a younger sibling. Susan Kay Blaine passed away on April 28, 2021 at the age of only 63. A heart attack claimed her life and tore her family's world asunder. Susan was such a bright star. She always had a smile and never knew a stranger. Even though she had known more pain and heartache than most people could endure in several lifetimes, she maintained a positive attitude always. 

Since her death, our family has not been the same. We have only been going through the motions of day to day living, and often faking a smile just to get through the day. It has been almost 14 months now, and we are beginning to come back to life a bit. The grief now comes in waves and is still overwhelming at times. I know that this is not what Susan would have wanted. And so we try. We try to maintain a positive attitude, we try to enjoy the little things in life, we try to reach out to one another. Life goes on. We'll try to live it with the memories of good times spent together and we will never forget our sweet Suzy-Q.