It Has Been Too Long

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal : Thursday, April 21, 2022

At last! After more than three years, we were headed once more to France. My husband and I had longed for this day, wondering when the Covid pandemic would ever allow us to travel again. Even the prospect of an 8 hour layover in Chicago didn’t dampen our enthusiasm.

We arrived in Paris around 11:00 AM. Our flight had been rather turbulent, which had made it impossible for us to sleep. Our son Desmond met us at the airport with a smile and hugs. It was so good to see him on his "home turf" and to know that we would be able to have three wonderful weeks together! We took a taxi into Montmartre, where our Airbnb was located and were pleased to learn that we would be able to check in early. Our host, Victor, was out of town but had arranged for his friend to meet us and show us around the lodging. The apartment was perfect for our needs and since it was actually the home of our host, it was filled with books, records, and many decorative touches that gave us a glimpse of the owner’s personality.

Our Airbnb was in this building in Montmartre.

After putting our luggage away, we went to lunch at Gemüse, a nearby restaurant that had been recommended by Victor. The Berlin-style kebab sandwiches were like nothing we had ever tasted! The hearty sesame bread was stuffed with flavorful chicken and so many different kinds of sautéed vegetables that we could barely pick them up. After that delightful meal, we headed toward Sacré Cœur and were soon confronted with one of the long stairways that seem to be the trademark of that area. I was forced to stop and rest several times, not because I was winded, but because of pain and tightness in my lower back. I had endured numerous procedures for back trouble for a couple of years by that time. I was determined that it would not spoil our vacation, though it might slow me down at times.

THE sandwich

A Montmartre stairway

Intriguing 3-D art beside the stairs

When we reached the area around the basilica, we were greeted with the lively notes of an accordion being played by a smiling busker. Small children were laughing and dancing around him. Everywhere we looked, there were flowers in pots or hanging baskets. Flowering trees displayed their fragrant blossoms as crowds strolled beneath them. We enjoyed the vibrant scene in Place du Tertre, where artists were busily sketching or painting, and displaying their completed wares for sale. We wandered for some time, taking in the beautiful views and the lively atmosphere which is always present there.

Sacre Coeur peeking through the trees

I enjoyed hearing the sounds
of the accordion.

We had planned to have a picnic supper in a park, but instead returned to our apartment. It was a bit of a disappointment, but my back was demanding a long rest. Desmond and Craig found a market where they picked up items for an indoor picnic. Our little supper consisted of a fresh baguette accompanied by a slab of Munster cheese, smoked cod livers, dry sausage, cherry tomatoes, fresh strawberries, and a honey almond cake. It was a fun and satisfying meal. We didn’t stay up late, as Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long travel day.

Heartbreak

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, December 28 2019

Craig and I awoke early and went to Desmond’s for breakfast. We were all excited to be going to Lyon for a few days. After a quick bite, we carried our small cases downstairs to await the driver. Instead of the train, Des had reserved space for us through a ride-share app. We were soon met by a very nice man and were on our way. Our driver spoke no English, but with Desmond sitting up front there was never a communication problem. 

I enjoyed the scenery as we passed through towns and countryside. The closer we got to Lyon, the more beautiful it became. We stopped for a bathroom break about three hours into the drive. The little roadside rest area had only a squat latrine, which is often referred to as a Turkish toilet. I was dismayed, as it had no handrail or anything to hold onto; not even a nearby wall to lean on! If I were young and spry, it would have been no problem. I made the best of it and managed not to fall over. 

On our way again, the scenery became craggy and rugged. The mountains were visible through the mist. Just before reaching our destination we stopped at a modern rest area which had large, clean restrooms. Upon reaching Lyon, our courteous driver let us out at Place Bellecour, where we could visit the tourism office and purchase a packet of tickets for the metro. It would have been wonderful to see the square during the Christmas market, as I had heard it was a good one.

The Ferris wheel at Place Bellecour, Lyon.

Even on a grey day, Lyon is lovely.

After that, it was a fairly short walk to our AirBnB. It was located near the top of a steep, narrow cobbled road and the apartment itself was up three long flights of stairs. It was roomy and had lots of personality, though it was a bit chilly. 

We enjoyed this cute little apartment in Lyon.

Our cozy bedroom in Lyon, France

We stowed our bags and then set out to find something to eat. After our six-hour drive we were definitely ready for lunch. The only place open nearby was a kebab shop and that was fine with us. We devoured the veal kebab sandwiches and crispy fries in the cozy restaurant and then set out to explore. 

A warm and filling lunch

A pretty street on Lyon, France

We had decided on a double-decker bus tour and had a little time to kill before boarding, so we walked around for a bit. We purchased some delectable pastries at an artisanal patisserie. I chose a Mont Blanc, which was a concoction of chestnut cream, meringue, and pastry cream. I had just thrown the wrapper away when my phone rang. My heart jolted when I saw that the call was from my mother’s hospice nurse. I knew it was bad news. 

Craig and Desmond knew how bad it was by my reaction. Our only comfort was that our sweet Ruby had passed away swiftly and peacefully. We immediately made our way back to the apartment, sobbing and trying to support each other. The rest of that day was a blur. We called our daughters and one of my sisters, who said she would inform the rest of the family. I vaguely remember Desmond handing me a hot drink and Craig making phone calls to the airline. Desmond went out later and picked up food for the three of us, but I have no memory of what we ate. 

To lose a loved one so suddenly when we were thousands of miles away was particularly heartbreaking. Stunned, bleary-eyed, and inconsolable, we cried ourselves to sleep. 

Checking In

I have been on hiatus for a few months, and now it's time to let everyone know I'm still around! It's amazing how active the lives of retired persons can be. Craig and I have been busy this spring and summer with projects around the house, the yard and garden, visits to and errands for both of our mothers, and a myriad of other activities. 

A recent visitor

This is part of the lovely courtyard my mom enjoys.

In April, it felt strange not to be flying to Europe. When Kansas summer weather began in June, my thoughts returned to France and the good times we had enjoyed there last year with Desmond. Though we struggled through a few exceptionally hot days, we all managed to have a splendid vacation.

Our next visit to France will be very different from previous years. We have decided to spend Christmas with Desmond! Our plane tickets have been purchased (at an amazingly low price) and our lodging has been reserved and paid for. We are thrilled to be staying in a little apartment merely a two-minute walk from Desmond's place.

Over the years, I have seen many beautiful photos and articles regarding the Christmas markets in France. Desmond has described them as well, and we are looking forward to the experience. Mulled wine, hot chestnuts, and handmade gifts are only a few of the delights that await. 

It will be a treat to enjoy the festive season with our son.This will be the longest time we will have been apart since his move to France. We miss him terribly, and though we are thankful for FaceTime and text messages, we want more! Anticipation is a good thing, though, isn't it?

Summer in Kansas is too hot
 for even the squirrels!

Summer In Kansas

Once again, I am taking a small break from documenting my travels. In this post, I wish to tell you about our summer. Desmond was able to return from France with us and since he is a teacher, we were thrilled to have most of July and August together! 

It was delightful to have our son at home. We all tried to make the most of his time here by seeing lots of friends and relatives, eating out at Desmond's favorite restaurants, shopping, and taking a few day trips. We visited both of Desmond's grandmothers regularly. Desmond and I often cooked together, which is always fun. He made noodle bowls on a couple of occasions, and they were so delicious that we will be making them at home on a regular basis!

One of Desmond's delicious
noodle bowls.

We visited Botanica in Wichita, which is a lovely botanical garden that has grown and improved over the past several years and is definitely worth visiting again and again. It's a peaceful and beautiful place.

I love the colors in this scene at Botanica in Wichita, KS.

The dragon wall in the Asian garden at Botanica.

Craig and Desmond entering
 the Children's garden at Botanica.

One day, we drove up to Cottonwood Falls. We had lunch in town and then headed toward the lake and waterfalls. The lake was nearly deserted and the day was warm. The path to approach the falls took us directly across the spillway. The scenery was beautiful, and as we made our way down along the trail through a wooded area, we listened for the sound of the waterfalls. Alas, due to lack of rain, there wasn't much to see when we reached our destination. Had we been there in the spring, the falls would have been quite a sight! We really weren't very disappointed. The scenery and the small trickles of water made a peaceful and lovely tableau.

This pic was shot from the spillway at the lake.

We saw many beautiful  wildflowers, dragonflies, and birds. The falls step down in a long series of natural rock terraces. (When I was a child, I often visited a similar place with my cousins where we cooled off by sitting on the "water stairs".) There were fish in the deeper pools, and tiny schools of minnows darting about in the shallows.

We attended, with Marjorie, the Threshing Days parade and festival in the tiny town of Goessel, Kansas. The festival and the museums there highlight the importance of farming and the role of the Mennonites who immigrated to this country, bringing with them the Turkey Red wheat. Desmond was able to view photos and other items in the museum that were brought from Europe by his ancestors. There were plenty of tractors and harvesters on display, many of which were over 100 years old and still running! A lunch was served, which consisted of several traditional dishes such as verinika, German rope sausage, borscht, tender zwieback, bierocks, and more. 

Craig, Marjorie, and Des wait for the parade to begin.

I was fascinated with this old steam tractor.

This candle mold was brought to Kansas
 by Mennonites fleeing Russia.

August 21, just one day after my birthday, was the solar eclipse! Desmond hadn't planned his visit to America to coincide with the eclipse, but we were all very glad it had worked out that way. In order to view it in totality, we needed to drive to the northeast part of the state. The forecast was bleak for that entire area. I was willing to stay at home and at least be able to see a partial eclipse, but both Des and Craig were urging me to agree to a road trip for this rare event.  

We drove in light rain for much of the journey.  Desmond had created a playlist of songs which featured the sun or the moon. As we listened to the music, the three of us were in high spirits despite the cloudy skies. We had packed snacks and a picnic lunch because we anticipated crowds wherever we happened to end up. As Craig was driving north, I began to search the weather map on my phone and it looked as if little Marysville, Kansas would be our best bet for clear skies. We arrived in time to settle down on our picnic blanket and enjoy lunch in the shade before moving the blanket to a grassy slope where we could lie back and watch the show. There were a few fluffy clouds which soon disappeared. Every now and then, some high, thin clouds veiled the sun just a bit and then floated away. We knew we were in for a treat.

The park wasn't overcrowded, and everyone there was in a high state of anticipation. Children were laughing and running through the grass or playing on the wonderful playground equipment in a shaded area of the park. We donned our NASA-approved eyewear and looked to the sky as the eclipse began, taking frequent breaks to look away. As the great moment approached, everyone in the park grew silent. Then, when the sun disappeared, cheering and applause and exclamations of wonder were heard throughout the entire park! It was a phenomenal event and was a thrill we will never forget!

Craig and Desmond viewing the eclipse.

It was a wonderful summer, and of course it went by all too quickly. Before we knew it, we were seeing Desmond off at the airport. I'm sure he was ready to return to his life in France. We all had made some wonderful memories together and look forward to our next trip to France.

An Easy Day

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, June 5 2017

I slept well and woke at 7 AM. Janey was still slumbering. I knew she had been unable to sleep on the plane, so I left her snuggled beneath the blankets and went into the other room to make coffee. I opened the windows to a beautiful, sunny morning and sipped my coffee as I gazed out at the courtyard. There were a surprising number of birds around, thanks to the many secluded courtyards, parks, and other green spaces. They were singing cheerfully and I enjoyed their sweet twitters and chirps as I relaxed. Azur was soon sitting on the window ledge, alert to all the activity outside.

Azur greets the morning.

Desmond soon awoke, and before long we were headed over to the bakery on the square. Within minutes, we were munching on tasty lemon tarts. We lounged around, discussing Craig's ordeal and his urgent quest for an expedited passport renewal. It was a helpless feeling, knowing there was nothing we could do to speed up the process. We missed him terribly.

I finally woke Janey at 10:00. We had decided on an easy day and at 11:30 we took the tram to Parc Floral. Janey had seen many photos of the beautiful botanical garden and she was happy to view it first-hand. We wandered aimlessly, serenaded by birdsong while admiring the lovely floral displays. We also stopped in to see the butterfly house and then continued our stroll through the gardens. After a while, Janey began to have an allergic reaction to something there. Her eyes were beginning to itch and swell, so we cut our visit short.

A pretty resident of the butterfly house.

We stopped at Auchan to purchase food for the evening meal.My granddaughter enjoyed wandering around the huge grocery store and she picked out some snack cakes and cereal for herself. That evening, Desmond made an incredible meal of orange duck, pureed sweet potatoes, and sauteed cherry tomatoes. The tasty orange sauce was a perfect topping for the creamy sweet potatoes. Our day ended with a nostalgic movie. 

A wonderful meal!

TRAVEL TIP: Always be aware of the expiration date on your passport. Go check it. Now. 

Never Lose Hope

I strive to keep my blog posts light and fun, sharing experiences of budget-friendly jaunts to France and beyond, throwing in some travel tips and recipes along the way. I hope I can make you smile or perhaps inspire you to broaden your horizons by trying a new dish or planning a vacation you had previously never thought possible. There are times, however, when I can not be silent or gloss over the realities of life. 

We are living in uncertain times. America is moving in a new, and sometimes frightening direction that has caused me some sleepless nights and anguish. I find myself wanting to apologize to the world for what is occurring in this country because what happens here has a ripple effect upon the entire world. America is a democracy which was built by immigrants, a country that welcomes people of differing faiths, skin colors, and abilities. We have been known as a generous nation whose people help others in need, whether that need is due to a natural disaster, persecution, or famine. 

I'm doing what I can to support kindness and decency. I am, along with millions of others worldwide, making my voice heard. Never in all of my 65 years had I taken part in a demonstration, but that has changed in recent weeks. To stand by and do nothing while our brothers and sisters in America and around the world are being denied basic human rights is no longer an option for me. In my family, I have always been known as the peacemaker. I not only avoided confrontation, but I also attempted (and still attempt) to restore peace and balance.

I am doing my small part. Many of these acts are things I have been doing for years. I am kind. I volunteer. I donate to the ACLU, Human Rights Campaign, Planned Parenthood, and other causes which support my sisters and brothers in America and around the world. I call and write to my legislators. I boycott companies which promote bigotry and hate. I read and learn. I hope and pray. And always, always, I vote.

And when all of that wears on me, when I am downhearted and just plain tired, I take a break. I watch a mindless movie or lose myself in book. I go for a long walk in nature. I listen to music. I laugh with friends and family. I hold them close. I dream about and plan my next vacation. And then, I stand up, square my shoulders, and go on. We will go on. Love and peace to all of you.

Cruising the Canal

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, May 23, 2016

What a fantastic day we had! Though we awoke to grey skies and light rain, we were determined to have a lovely day. Coffee came first, of course! We enjoyed having a kettle in our cozy room at the gite. There were two pretty mugs and a colorful tin box filled with packets of tea and instant coffee, as well as brightly wrapped cubes of sugar. We went downstairs to find the table beautifully laid for breakfast. Our hostess came in to greet us, asked if we desired some yogurt, and then quietly slipped away and left us to our petit dejeuner. There was a variety of breads from which to choose. A delightful seed bread, slightly sweetened, was our favorite. I also tried a slice of a tender yellow bread which had been made with corn flour. We had several jams and honey from which to choose, as well as a bowl of fresh fruit.  We drank coffee, hot chocolate, and orange juice. It was just what we wanted, since we would be having a big lunch on the cruise in Briare. Another couple came down to breakfast. They were from Germany and were bicycling through the area. The woman spoke French well and said they might want to stay an extra day due to the forecast. We also spoke with our hostess who said she and her husband have been running the B&B for four years. We told her how much we loved the rooms. Everything was perfect. 

One last view of the gite in Briare, France.

We left for the five minute drive to Briare in the chilly rain, glad that the luncheon cruise was "covered". We were very glad that Muriel was feeling well enough for her to join us, as this was to be our treat for her, Thierry, and Mathieu. Sort of a payback for the many wonderful meals they have prepared for us over the years. They were waiting in their car near the basin. We opened our umbrellas and had only a short wait before we were admitted on board the boat. The high windows beside each group of tables began to fog over as the salon filled with new arrivals. Nearly all of them were French. No concession was made for those who didn't speak the language. It didn't matter, though, because we had Desmond and Mathieu. Thierry knows some English and speaks it well. He can understand much more. I was seated across from Muriel and even though the boat was noisy with chattering diners and the rumble of the engines, both Craig and I managed to speak with her a bit. 

The boat on which we enjoyed a luncheon cruise. 

We are seated on the boat and ready to go!

As the boat pulled away from the dock, we were all thrilled when it went halfway into the Pont du Canal. We had just walked along it the night before. Then, our craft pulled forward and began to navigate the canal. I was delighted when I learned that we would be passing through three locks and then returning the same way. Our boat even went past the gite where we had stayed! Our hosts were standing outside, waving as we cruised by. 

Our captain guiding the boat out of the basin.

It was interesting to pass through the locks.

We were soon served glasses of kir and we raised our flutes in a toast to families and friendships. The first course appeared as we gazed out of the windows. Each small plate was arranged with cold cuts, pickles, and two slices of baguette on which were spread rillettes and tapenade. We were off to a good start.

It's time for a toast!

And for starters...

Thierry bought a bottle of Sancerre wine, which was very good. We also had a red wine that was provided by the cruise, in addition to a carafe of water. As we dined, we paused to take pictures, and sometimes to go out onto the small back deck which had a canopy over it. Most of my photos were shot through the window by the table, which not only had rain running down the outside, but also condensation on the inside. I think I got some interesting photos though, both inside and out.

A little wine to accompany our meal.

A shot of the B & B through a rainy window.

It was fascinating to go through the locks. I thought I would feel claustrophobic when we were lowered down into them, but it was fine. We next had the main course, which was paupiettes de veau in a mushroom cream sauce, creamy potatoes Dauphinois, and a vegetable medley which consisted of carrots, green beans, and salsify. Salsify was called oyster root by the colonists because it does have a slight oyster flavor. Everything was seasoned perfectly, and we all enjoyed that portion of the meal. Along the banks of the river we saw bright yellow wild iris, wild carrot in flower, and several other varieties of flowers.

The main course was delicious!

At some point, we each got up to take a peek outside from the deck, which was protected from the rain. It was fun to watch the operation of the locks. The mighty gates opened and closed as we were raised and lowered according to the height of the canal. Before long, the cheese course was served. Thankfully, the servings were small, but even so, I couldn't finish mine. There was a slice of gruyere, a wedge of Camembert, and a slice of mild goat cheese, with bread to go with it. By then we had been through several locks and were not far from our starting point. 

Now, it's time for the cheese course! 

Passing through another lock.

We were interested in how the locks operate.

Closing the gates.

What an interesting way to travel!

A "ritzy" barge tied up in the basin.

As the cruise was coming to an end, dessert was brought to the table. It was a tiny chocolate caramel lava cake, sitting in a pool of sweet cream. Delightful! And then small cups of espresso accompanied by a little Gallette cookie. We had such a good time, with great company and a delicious meal. Who cares if it's raining?

The dreary day didn't dampen our spirits.

And for dessert - little lava cakes!

As the boat was nearing the dock, many of the people on board began to sing a rousing French song. I didn't understand the lyrics, though I enjoyed listening. We left the boat and all went into the gift shop. I found a tiny owl figurine for mom. Des bought a striped French sailor jacket. As we were saying goodbye to Matt, Muriel and Thierry, she put a package into my hands, and one for Craig. She gave him some wonderful cookies, some of which are called croquet and are delightfully crunchy with a great flavor. I wasn't familiar with the rest, but Des said they would be delicious! Muriel presented me with a cute little owl couple. Muriel and I both love owls. She is so sweet. We had enjoyed spending the afternoon with her and the guys. 

Our boat returns home.
 

On the way home we stopped at a pet store to pick up food for Azur. There was a beautiful Norwegian Forest kitten for sale for €1140!!! It was adorable, and so sweet. It kept trying to play with me through the glass. Later, Arno came over for snacks and drinks. We were still not very hungry, so we nibbled on sausage, cheese, chips, and some grape tomatoes that Desmond drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Craig and Arno played a game, an app called Progress to 100. Desmond had shown it to me before. It was a hoot watching them figure out how to answer each riddle. Des showed Arno his amethyst collection, which he was very intrigued by. And he fell in love with his collection of I Spy books, so Des loaned him a couple. All in all, it was a fabulous day.