From Nantes to Le Croisic

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, April 28 2022

We definitely needed our jackets that morning, as a chill breeze was blowing. Des wanted to treat us to his favorite Nantes bakery, one of which was located in passage Pommeraye. After a quick cup of coffee in the apartment, we set out. The covered passageway was constructed between 1843 and 1845 by Louis Pommeraye. He envisioned a luxurious three-tiered indoor shopping center with shops, cafes, and even apartments which were located on the uppermost level. It is an architectural feast for the eyes, as you stroll past renaissance sculptures, Corinthian columns, and ornate wrought iron railing. We were a bit too early for the shops to be open and were disappointed that even the bakery was closed. Just seeing the luxurious shopping arcade was a treat, though. I enjoyed peering into the shop windows. One store specialized in nothing but sardines! There were dozens of varieties in artfully decorated tins and gift boxes. We also saw a Hermès shop and a large sporting and outdoor shop which had cleverly displayed their products.

Inside the Passage Pommeraye in Nantes

            

the Passage Pommeraye,
a shopping arcade in Nantes, France

On we went, toward an exciting attraction in Nantes - a giant steampunk elephant! We did stop at a bakery for some breakfast treats. I chose an “elephant”, which was a pastry swirled with chocolate, cinnamon, and Biscoff crumbles. It was fantastic! We carried our treats to an area near the elephant's barn and found a picnic table at which to sit. We were disappointed to learn that we wouldn’t be able buy tickets for the elephant ride, but we were still excited to know that we could watch as it trundled around the area. It had been reserved for groups of schoolchildren on a field trip. We were able to ride the enormous steampunk carousel which consisted of three levels of marine animals that could be ridden on and controlled with levers and foot pedals. Honestly, I think it was even better than the elephant! We delightedly explored all three floors, pausing to watch the action and the happy faces of children and their teachers as they rode such creatures as crabs, a giant squid, huge fish, and even a sea serpent. The entire place was filled with happy screams and shrill laughter as the kids raced around to get in line for their favorite creatures. The three of us chose to ride together on the sea serpent and I got to operate his mouth and the smoke he breathed out. We were laughing as much as the children! It was the most fun and unique carousel I had ever experienced. 

  

Want to ride a sea serpent?

The Steampunk Carousel in Nantes, France

                                 

Fun for everyone!

After that, we watched the huge elephant approach the loading area next to the carousel. Crowds of people surrounded it, taking photos and videos. Suddenly, the elephant began to spray water from its trunk onto the crowd! People scattered, laughing and screaming but most of them going back for more. We had moved to a safe distance from which we could watch and take photos without getting wet. When the huge mechanical creature was loaded with people, it began to walk slowly around the area. We followed for a while, glad that we had an opportunity to enjoy the elephant in motion. 

Craig and Desmond are standing
beside one leg of the Steampunk Elephant.

Watch out, or you'll be sprayed with water!

One of the sinking buildings in Nantes, France

We then made our way back to our apartment to pack and head to the train station. The ride to Le Croisic wasn’t long, and we soon began to see the salt farms in the marshes near town. We had wanted to stay a night in Le Croisic, but even though we had made plans and reservations many months before, there was nothing available. That didn’t stop us from enjoying the rest of the day there. The little train station wasn’t far from the beach. We began walking, scenting the salt air as we went past picturesque old homes and ivy-covered walls. The little town was very pretty, especially down by the harbor. There were lots of boats tied up, gently bobbing by the quay. 

Desmond and Craig climb to the lookout tower.

The salt marshes outside LeCroisic, France,
as seen from the train.

                                 

Boats on the quay in Le Croisic

As it was lunchtime, Desmond was taking us to a crêperie. There were lots of shops and restaurants along the shore but we continued on until we reached Desmond’s favorite. Though it was very crowded, the proprietor found us some seats near the corner. The decor in the restaurant was lovely, with antiques and cute memorabilia everywhere. We ordered cider and galettes, which arrived surprisingly quickly. They were fantastic! Mine was just the basic cheese and lardons, but it was very flavorful. Of course, we had to order dessert crepes. The salted caramel was sublime. 

Inside the creperie

Creperie Tante Germaine in Le Croisic

                                 

After that delightfully satisfying lunch, we began walking down to the beach. The weather was great, with us needing only a light jacket. The beach was beautiful, though the section we were on was covered quite liberally with shells and pebbles. Desmond spread out a blanket and then we went hunting for cowries and sea glass. The sound and smell of the sea was a pleasant accompaniment. Craig and Des decided to go for a walk down the beach while I remained behind, perfectly content with the view. A couple of women who were obviously just out for a stroll came near me. They had a small, fluffy white dog with them. He scampered around quite happily by their feet, but then I saw him raise his head and begin sniffing the air. He started down the beach, trotting with intent. He was honing in on something, and soon he flopped down and begin rolling happily. Probably on a dead fish or something. Suddenly one of the women cried out, “non, non, non, non, non! She ran to the pup and lifted him gingerly by his harness, scolding him all the while. She then began dunking him in the sea. It was all I could do to keep from laughing out loud. 

A lighthouse at Le Croisic, France

Des and Craig on the beach at Le Croisic

                                 

When Craig and Desmond returned from their walk, we lounged on the beach for a while longer and then gathered our things. We walked slowly back toward town, where we stopped at a waterfront cafe for a drink. We then found a wonderful bakery and each chose a couple of fresh, buttery kougin amaan in a variety of flavors. The patisserie had many enticing treats displayed and it was all so tempting! Soon, we returned to the train station and headed back the way we had come. We didn’t travel far, but got off at La Baule. It is a resort town on the coast and before long we had settled in to another cute AirBnB.  By then, we were tired and hungry. Our apartment was in a residential area and there were no restaurants or cafes nearby, so we ate our delicious pastries and then called it a night. 

The pretty train station at La Baule, France

A Castle in Nantes

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, April 27 2022

We woke early, excited about traveling to Nantes and then on to the Atlantic coast. I started a pot of coffee while Desmond ran out to a bakery and came back with Kouign Amann (in honor of us traveling to Brittany) and a couple of pain au lait. Thus fortified, we rode the tram to the train station and were soon on our way. I spent most of the 3 1/2 hour journey gazing out the windows as we traveled the familiar route past Blois, Amboise, and Tours and on through new sights toward Nantes. The countryside was beautiful with lush, greening fields and flowering trees. The Loire was often in view as we traveled along past cliffs dotted with troglodyte caves. Through rolling hills and forests we occasionally caught a glimpse of a castle. Just the usual scenery in France.

We arrived in Nantes at lunchtime, walking out of the station into bright sunshine. After a short walk, the three of us were soon seated at L'Alsacien, a restaurant serving flammekueche, also known as tarte flambée, which is actually from the Alsace region of France. We chose to dine outside where we were protected from the sidewalk traffic by a vine-covered screen. We studied the menu and then each of us chose a different “pizza”.  Our server was very friendly and told us that the proper way to eat flammekueche was to share each one. He explained that because the crust is so thin and crisp, he would serve one at a time so that they wouldn’t become soggy. We began our delicious lunch with la traditionnelle. The cracker-like crust was nearly as thin as card stock and was spread with crème fraîche and sprinkled with onion, smoked lardons, and emmental. It was love at first bite! Next up was la forestière which was much like the first one but with mushrooms added. Our third choice was commissaire magret, an incredible combination of caramelized onions, smoked duck breast, tomatoes, and emmental over the base of crème fraîche. It was a wonderful meal and a great start to our little getaway.

A delightful flammekueche

Bricks at a toy shop repaired with Legos

A beautiful half-timbered building in Nantes

Exploring Nantes, France

Desmond suggested that Craig and I visit the nearby jardin des plantes while he went to pick up the key to our Airbnb. We enjoyed walking around in the beautiful gardens, admiring rare trees, gorgeous blooming plants, and the whimsical art of Nantes-born artist Jean Jullien.

Art by Jean Jullien will make you smile.

Desmond returned in about half an hour. We walked for about 15 minutes and arrived at the very old stone building which housed our apartment. Upon entering the structure, we zigzagged across a courtyard and up several small flights of stairs to find our lodging. We were pleasantly surprised with the apartment. It was very clean and modern, and had everything we needed, with full-sized appliances in the gleaming kitchen. We soon left to go exploring.

Nantes is a lovely city of about 300,000 inhabitants. Des had been there a few times, but it was all new to me and Craig. We wandered toward the oldest part of town, admiring the architecture and peeking into shops as we passed by. Suddenly, our son stopped in his tracks. There was a donut shop! Not just a boulangerie or patisserie that sold donuts in addition to their usual fare, but an actual donut shop! Coming from America, this wasn’t something my husband and I would get excited about. Donuts shops are a dime a dozen there. But for Desmond, a donut was a rare, nostalgic treat! Of course, we had to go in. We were amazed at the many flavors offered. They were artfully decorated, too. And they tasted as good as they looked. I chose a pretty lemon meringue donut, which was scrumptious. We had carried them down the street until we found a shaded bench across from the Château des ducs de Bretagne. That was to be our next stop.

 

The Château des ducs de Bretagne was built in the 15th century by François II and later by his daughter Anne of Brittany, who would twice become Queen of France. Visitors are allowed to walk the ramparts, which we did. We looked down upon the moat and learned that the grassy areas around it are kept short and lush by some very eco-friendly lawnmowers - sheep! From up there, we were treated to a beautiful view across the city. We toured many of the 32 rooms and marveled at the artifacts and history of the chateau. 

We finally began meandering back toward our Airbnb, but not before stopping for hot chocolate at a cute little place Desmond had discovered on a previous visit. Our drinks were delicious and I was glad of the short rest. Continuing on, we went into a small market where we purchased ham, Cantal cheese, chips, olives, and chocolate raspberry cookies for our evening meal. It had been a fun day and we settled into our beds, looking forward to another great day on Thursday.

A Fun Springtime Day

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, April 26 2022

It was lovely to sleep in. We lingered over coffee and then breakfasted on fresh, warm bread from the nearby bakery. Desmond had put his homemade spreads on the table. It was difficult to chose between the peanut butter, the chocolate spread, and the fig jam. I tried a bit of each and thoroughly enjoyed them.

Craig and I were looking forward to seeing Vincent again and meeting his children. After a half hour tram ride, we arrived in Fleury Les Aubrais where Vincent was to pick us up. Then it was just a short drive to his home. Desmond and Vincent gave us a tour of the house and the beautiful gardens which surrounded it. The gardens were a feast for the eyes, though it was still early in the growing season. Every nook and cranny was filled with plants and interesting objects. There were several inviting areas in which to sit. Colorful cushions were tossed on wooden chairs and loungers, overhung with the branches of fig and hazelnut trees. A koi pond in one corner was a serene place to linger and enjoy the calming music of trickling water. I was enchanted with it all.

A quiet corner in Vincent's garden

A beautiful little Zen garden

Vincent had prepared a salad lunch for us, which was delicious. We heaped our plates with greens and added toppings of grape tomatoes, cooked new potatoes, walnuts, chick peas, cheese, lardons, mushrooms, ham, and croutons. It was all drizzled with a tasty dressing and served with a fresh, crusty baguette and a delightful wine. Vincent’s son Arthus joined us for lunch, as his school was nearby.  He was a bit shy and hesitant to speak English to us, but we managed to converse using both French and English. Arthus had to return to school after lunch, but the rest of us piled into Vincent’s car and headed to the nearby forest. 

A delightful salad

The weather was perfect for a walk. As we parked near a small castle, we noticed a large group of children playing games in a meadow. There were several classes of the youngsters who had been driven over to the parkland and their little bicycles had been brought over on a trailer. The air was filled with sounds of their laughter. The noise faded as we walked deeper into the forest.

A sprig of muguet des bois

The woods were calm and peaceful and I wish we could have walked deeper into the lush forest, but after about 30 minutes I had need of the facilities. There were several workers nearby who were sawing at the trunk of a large oak tree. We were directed past a roped-off area near the parking lot, where we could see the schoolchildren and their chaperones watching the activity. We stood near the children and all of us watched in awe as the mighty tree was felled. The noise and the vibration of the earth as the tree slowly and heavily crashed to the ground was intense. Everyone yelled out “wow!” and began to applaud. I’m sure it was the first time any of us had seen something like that. 

It was fascinating to watch the oak tree fall.

After we returned to Vincent’s home, he picked up the kids from school and we were delighted to meet his sweet daughter, Agathe. She was a bit shy with us, though we were certain that before long she and her brother would feel comfortable around me and Craig. We all gathered around the patio table for a special treat. Vincent knew that Craig and I had a love of French pastries and he told everyone that we were in for a special treat. Agathe kindly prepared coffee for us as we all seated ourselves around the large table outside. Vincent set a plate before us which had six different pastries on it. Each one was an enticing creation. We decided to share the pastries by cutting them in half, and each of us chose two pieces to enjoy. They were delectable! I wish I could have remembered the names of each one. After finishing our sweet treats, I brought out the little gifts that Craig and I had brought from Kansas. It was mostly nostalgic and unique candies, though it did include some beef jerky for Desmond and Vincent. We had also thrown in a packet of chocolate covered insects, just for fun. Agathe and Arthus were hesitant to try the bugs, so Vincent decided to give it a go. Things got pretty hilarious after that while we watched the different expressions crossing Vincent’s face while he choked down a chocolate covered worm.

A special afternoon treat

We enjoyed the wonderful hazelnuts
from Vincent's trees.