Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, April 28 2022
We definitely needed our jackets that morning, as a chill breeze was blowing. Des wanted to treat us to his favorite Nantes bakery, one of which was located in passage Pommeraye. After a quick cup of coffee in the apartment, we set out. The covered passageway was constructed between 1843 and 1845 by Louis Pommeraye. He envisioned a luxurious three-tiered indoor shopping center with shops, cafes, and even apartments which were located on the uppermost level. It is an architectural feast for the eyes, as you stroll past renaissance sculptures, Corinthian columns, and ornate wrought iron railing. We were a bit too early for the shops to be open and were disappointed that even the bakery was closed. Just seeing the luxurious shopping arcade was a treat, though. I enjoyed peering into the shop windows. One store specialized in nothing but sardines! There were dozens of varieties in artfully decorated tins and gift boxes. We also saw a Hermès shop and a large sporting and outdoor shop which had cleverly displayed their products.
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| Inside the Passage Pommeraye in Nantes |
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the Passage Pommeraye,
a shopping arcade in Nantes, France |
On we went, toward an exciting attraction in Nantes - a giant steampunk elephant! We did stop at a bakery for some breakfast treats. I chose an “elephant”, which was a pastry swirled with chocolate, cinnamon, and Biscoff crumbles. It was fantastic! We carried our treats to an area near the elephant's barn and found a picnic table at which to sit. We were disappointed to learn that we wouldn’t be able buy tickets for the elephant ride, but we were still excited to know that we could watch as it trundled around the area. It had been reserved for groups of schoolchildren on a field trip. We were able to ride the enormous steampunk carousel which consisted of three levels of marine animals that could be ridden on and controlled with levers and foot pedals. Honestly, I think it was even better than the elephant! We delightedly explored all three floors, pausing to watch the action and the happy faces of children and their teachers as they rode such creatures as crabs, a giant squid, huge fish, and even a sea serpent. The entire place was filled with happy screams and shrill laughter as the kids raced around to get in line for their favorite creatures. The three of us chose to ride together on the sea serpent and I got to operate his mouth and the smoke he breathed out. We were laughing as much as the children! It was the most fun and unique carousel I had ever experienced.
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| Want to ride a sea serpent? |
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| The Steampunk Carousel in Nantes, France |
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| Fun for everyone! |
After that, we watched the huge elephant approach the loading area next to the carousel. Crowds of people surrounded it, taking photos and videos. Suddenly, the elephant began to spray water from its trunk onto the crowd! People scattered, laughing and screaming but most of them going back for more. We had moved to a safe distance from which we could watch and take photos without getting wet. When the huge mechanical creature was loaded with people, it began to walk slowly around the area. We followed for a while, glad that we had an opportunity to enjoy the elephant in motion.
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Craig and Desmond are standing
beside one leg of the Steampunk Elephant. |
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| Watch out, or you'll be sprayed with water! |
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| One of the sinking buildings in Nantes, France |
We then made our way back to our apartment to pack and head to the train station. The ride to Le Croisic wasn’t long, and we soon began to see the salt farms in the marshes near town. We had wanted to stay a night in Le Croisic, but even though we had made plans and reservations many months before, there was nothing available. That didn’t stop us from enjoying the rest of the day there. The little train station wasn’t far from the beach. We began walking, scenting the salt air as we went past picturesque old homes and ivy-covered walls. The little town was very pretty, especially down by the harbor. There were lots of boats tied up, gently bobbing by the quay.  |
| Desmond and Craig climb to the lookout tower. |
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The salt marshes outside LeCroisic, France,
as seen from the train. |
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| Boats on the quay in Le Croisic |
As it was lunchtime, Desmond was taking us to a crêperie. There were lots of shops and restaurants along the shore but we continued on until we reached Desmond’s favorite. Though it was very crowded, the proprietor found us some seats near the corner. The decor in the restaurant was lovely, with antiques and cute memorabilia everywhere. We ordered cider and galettes, which arrived surprisingly quickly. They were fantastic! Mine was just the basic cheese and lardons, but it was very flavorful. Of course, we had to order dessert crepes. The salted caramel was sublime.
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| Inside the creperie |
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| Creperie Tante Germaine in Le Croisic |
After that delightfully satisfying lunch, we began walking down to the beach. The weather was great, with us needing only a light jacket. The beach was beautiful, though the section we were on was covered quite liberally with shells and pebbles. Desmond spread out a blanket and then we went hunting for cowries and sea glass. The sound and smell of the sea was a pleasant accompaniment. Craig and Des decided to go for a walk down the beach while I remained behind, perfectly content with the view. A couple of women who were obviously just out for a stroll came near me. They had a small, fluffy white dog with them. He scampered around quite happily by their feet, but then I saw him raise his head and begin sniffing the air. He started down the beach, trotting with intent. He was honing in on something, and soon he flopped down and begin rolling happily. Probably on a dead fish or something. Suddenly one of the women cried out, “non, non, non, non, non! She ran to the pup and lifted him gingerly by his harness, scolding him all the while. She then began dunking him in the sea. It was all I could do to keep from laughing out loud.  |
| A lighthouse at Le Croisic, France |
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| Des and Craig on the beach at Le Croisic |
When Craig and Desmond returned from their walk, we lounged on the beach for a while longer and then gathered our things. We walked slowly back toward town, where we stopped at a waterfront cafe for a drink. We then found a wonderful bakery and each chose a couple of fresh, buttery kougin amaan in a variety of flavors. The patisserie had many enticing treats displayed and it was all so tempting! Soon, we returned to the train station and headed back the way we had come. We didn’t travel far, but got off at La Baule. It is a resort town on the coast and before long we had settled in to another cute AirBnB. By then, we were tired and hungry. Our apartment was in a residential area and there were no restaurants or cafes nearby, so we ate our delicious pastries and then called it a night.  |
| The pretty train station at La Baule, France |
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