Christmas Day in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, Dec. 25 2018

Christmas Day dawned sunny but cold. Our first thoughts were on our other loved ones back home, though it was much too early to call any of them. We hoped that someone would be visiting mom in the nursing home. It's possible that she may not have realized that it was Christmas day, but she still deserved attention from her family, regardless. Craig and I had coffee together before walking over to Desmond's place. He greeted us with steaming mugs of rich hot chocolate. The house looked very festive, with the fat stockings on the mantel and twinkling lights on the tree. 

Christmas day in Orleans France

With Christmas carols playing in the background, the three of us took our time opening gifts and "unstuffing" our Christmas stockings. There was lots of laughter and plenty of nice surprises. Desmond especially loved the apron we had given him. It was from the Mennonite Heritage Museum in Goessel, Kansas and featured embroidered zwieback on the bib. Those little rolls, translated as "two breads" are a popular addition to many Mennonite meals.

Desmond tries on his new apron.

Azur joined the festivities.

Because this was the first sunny day since our arrival in France, we decided to go for a walk. The town was very quiet, as I'm sure many families were occupied in the same manner as we had been. Even though the temperature hovered at the freezing mark, we still enjoyed our little stroll. 

In the afternoon, Jeff and Arno arrived within minutes of each other. It was wonderful to have them with us for at least a part of the holiday. We poured drinks and nibbled on Christmas goodies as we chatted. Des was popping into the kitchen at intervals, and some very enticing aromas were filling the air. He really went all out to prepare a magnificent Christmas feast.

We began our meal with apéro, which consisted of more drinks accompanied by a beautifully arranged planche heaped with sausage, pistachios, Gouda walnut crackers, figs, escargot crackers, tiny pickles, and pate en croute. That kept us occupied for a while! Our next course was smoked trout blini. It was very tasty and I preferred it over smoked salmon. We were off to a great start.

What a great start to our meal!

After a while, Desmond presented us with a lovely tray of foie gras with plenty of toasted brioche accompanied by little pots of sea salt, onion confit and fig jam. By this point, I was feeling the need for another walk!

The foie gras was irresistible.

As the festive meal continued, Desmond served a tender, juicy, cider roasted capon, along with sweet potato casserole, braised chestnuts, and fresh, soft rolls. The capon stole the show; it was simply delectable. 

The delightful main course.

The traditional cheese course followed that sumptuous spread. Des had arranged the Gouda, goat cheese, and a tasty local cheese from Olivet on a tray with plenty of seeded crackers to go with it. I enjoyed sampling the cheese, but didn’t overdo it as I knew dessert was still to come. 

Time for some tasty cheese

Jeff had contributed spicy mince pies from Marks and Spencer for dessert, and we also had a layered ice cream cake. The champagne was poured and we all toasted the season as we savored the last bites of that incredible meal. How wonderful it was to share that time with our son and his friends, who over the years have become our friends, too. It was indeed a very special Christmas Day. 

Time for a toast. 

Flavorful mince pies

And ice cream cake to end the meal

Our Christmas Eve in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, Dec. 24 2018

Christmas Eve! It was strange not to be at home for Christmas; it was definitely a first for us. Craig and I were thrilled to be spending the holiday in France with our son. I had switched on the two sparkling Christmas trees in our apartment before I headed into the kitchen to make coffee. The tree provided by our host was in the place of honor atop the mantel and was surrounded by some of the small gifts I had wrapped previously. I had hung our stockings there to complete the festive look, though we would take them to Desmond’s house later. The tiny tree was on our little dining table and provided another touch of color. 

Des came over with a box of pastries. The kouigin-amann was a delectable surprise. That sweet, flaky, buttery pastry is a traditional Breton delight. We also shared a yummy lemon tart as we planned our day. 

The kouigin-amann is a delight!

We had some grocery shopping to do, but first needed to stop at the pet shop to purchase food for Azur. As the three of us were approaching the shop, we saw a little girl leaving with her parents. Her eyes were sparkling and in her arms she cradled a large water-filled plastic bag in which a goldfish was swimming. The child had a huge smile on her face and both of her arms were wrapped around the bag protectively. As she lagged behind her parents, we saw her lift the bag and put her cheek against it as she gave it a gentle hug. She hugged her goldfish! That was one of the cutest things we had ever seen. For the rest of the day, one or the other of us would break into a smile or chuckle as we recalled it. It’s too bad her parents missed that special moment. 

Lost in translation?

The grocery store was very crowded, as we knew it would be, but it was fun. The store was packed with shoppers milling about selecting delicacies for their holiday feasts, while wide-eyed children waited in line to chat with Pere Noël. We wove through the crowds and managed to find everything we needed. After returning to Desmond’s place, we put away the groceries and then Des whipped up a lunch of vegetarian steak patties, potato puffs, and clémentines.

Those aren't cucumbers, they're avocados!

After laundry and a few other chores, we couldn’t resist a final visit to the Christmas market. The three of us bundled up and walked into the center of town. Of course, everyone had the same idea and the square was crowded with families. 

Enticing aromas of waffles, tartiflette, and roasted chestnuts wafted through the square. The hut with the biggest crowd was the one selling mulled wine, but the line moved quickly and we were soon sipping cups of that warm, spiced wine. Our next stop was for hot roasted chestnuts, which were scooped into a paper cone. Yum! 

Mulled wine is very popular on a chilly evening.

Craig and Des enjoying hot mulled wine
 at the Christmas market in Orleans, France

Roasted chestnuts were a treat

As sunset approached, we decided to ride the Ferris wheel. The lights on the candy striped-wheel were sparkling, as were the ones hung in swags from the wooden huts on the square. We enjoyed the view, though we were becoming chilled. It was time retrace our steps back across the bridge.

A view of the Christmas market from the Ferris Wheel

Another view from the big wheel

In France, most families have an elaborate meal on Christmas eve. Des had planned differently since he wanted to include Jeff and also Arno, who were not available until Christmas Day. He put together a quick and delicious cheese fondue for our Christmas Eve supper. There were chunks of baguette, salami, ham, cooked potato, apple, and blanched broccoli to dip into the melted cheese. There was chocolate fondue for dessert, which we ate with caramel corn, pieces of waffle, and slices of banana and orange. It was a fun and festive meal. 

Christmas Eve fondue

We ended the evening by watching nostalgic Christmas shows, after which we stuffed the stockings and propped them carefully on the mantel. It had been such a fun day. 

Wrapping Up

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, Dec. 23 2018

Our little neighborhood bakery was closed on Sundays, so Craig and Desmond walked several blocks to le Lys d’Or to pick up pastries for breakfast. They brought me a tasty almond croissant which I thoroughly enjoyed. 

A rustic almond croissant

The guys had decided that they needed to do some more shopping. I remained at Desmond’s to wrap presents. I put on some Christmas music and soon got into a rhythm. Azur kept me company, and before long, the gifts were nestled beneath the tree.

Azur with his nose almost touching the radiator

Des and Craig returned at noon with goodies for our lunch. We enjoyed slices of baguette served with our choice of duck mousse, chicken rillettes, or ham and cheese alongside some tangy cornichons. Sweet, juicy clementines made a refreshing dessert. 

The weather continued to be quite chilly and even though a bright sun was shining, there was enough of a breeze to make one really feel the cold. Des and Craig bundled up again since they had just a bit more shopping to do. I remained in the apartment and caught up on email and messages home. 

That evening, Desmond made a quick and easy dinner of beef ravioli in a homemade sauce. A fresh baguette and rich Normandy butter went well with it. We ended the day with a game of Rummikub. How nice it was to do these ordinary things with our son. Our limited time together is always precious.

Shopping and Eating. What's Not to Like?

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, Dec. 22 2018

After coffee and Madeleines, Craig and I made our way to Desmond’s where we enjoyed more coffee with some chocolate and banana breakfast cookies that our son had made.The plan for the day was to get serious about Christmas shopping. We decided it would be best to split up, so Craig and Des headed for the Christmas market while I wandered around town. I enjoyed popping into interesting little shops and choosing small items for stocking stuffers.

Craig captured this view from the Ferris wheel.

At lunchtime, we met at the little noodle shop on the square near Desmond’s apartment. We watched the owner making fresh noodles as our own dishes were being prepared by his wife. When our food arrived, we eagerly dug into the garlicky noodles, pork, and vegetables. It was a delicious and satisfying lunch. As we were eating, the little cat who lives in the building next to Desmond came to the door of the noodle shop, begging for a handout. The owners told us that this little "stray" shows up every day and they just couldn't resist her. Lily was busted when Des explained that she was not a stray, and we all had a good laugh! I'm surprised the cat isn't overweight, because she always looking for a bit to eat at the different establishments on the square.

Fresh noodles? Yes, please!

A delicious lunchtime treat

After our meal, Craig went out shopping alone while Des and I teamed up and headed back into town. We had such a good time, and Des took me to some unique shops I hadn’t visited before. I am always eager to step into the chocolate shops! The aroma alone is a treat. They have such enticing displays and really go over the top at Christmas, which makes those beautiful little works of edible art even more irresistible. One shop even had a chocolate waterfall pouring down an inside wall! 

A pretty side street in Orléans

Later, we spotted Arno and a friend of his at the Christmas market. We shopped a bit with them and then decided to meet Craig at le Lutetia for coffee. We sat there for quite a while, enjoying our hot drinks in the bustling restaurant.

Père Noël is in charge of this roller coaster!

Oh, coffee, I love you too!

 
After returning to Desmond’s place, we had an easy meal of egg sandwiches and chips. We ended the evening with a board game before heading home to our own little nest. 

Cuddles with Azur

It Feels Like Home

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, Dec. 21 2018

Craig and I slept late in our comfortable king-sized bed. The apartment was cozy and warm and we felt very much at home there. We brewed a pot of dark, aromatic coffee and nibbled on a few Madeleines which Des had provided for us. Before long, we were headed over to Desmond's place just a couple of blocks away. We were looking forward to spending more time with Will. We had just missed Desmond's roommate, Art, who had crossed us on his way to America where he would spend Christmas with his family.

Azur was warm and cozy in his new bed.

Des had planned a wonderful lunch for us. He made a Korean dish of bulgogi, which is one of my favorite meals. Rice and roasted broccoli were the perfect accompaniment. Will contributed dessert to the meal. It was a delicious tarte tatin, with a wonderful caramel topping and lots of whipped cream. We enjoyed chatting with Will. He is a fun person to talk to and I'm glad he and Des are friends. 

After lunch, Desmond had to leave for work and Will needed to head back to Paris. Craig and I decided to pay another visit to the Christmas market before going grocery shopping. It was fun to wander around at the festive market and I purchased a few small items for family members at home. We then boarded a very crowded tram for a ride to the supermarket. We bought coffee and other necessities and on the way home we picked up some pastries. It was pleasant to relax in our comfy apartment and enjoy coffee and pastries while sending a few messages to relatives at home.

A Paris Brest in the shape of an eclair

When Des returned from the university, we shared a snack of sausage, cheese, and bread. Later, we went into town where we were meeting friends for drinks at l'Atelier, a cozy bar on the Rue de Borgogne. It was good to see Jeffrey and Chris again, and we met a few new people, too. One was a young German man named Karl, who was couch-surfing around the country and was currently staying with Jeff. Everyone enjoyed talking to him about his adventures and about life in Germany. We all talked and laughed for three hours! By the time we made it home, none of us were hungry, so we just called it a night.

A festive evening on Rue de Borgogne

Drinks with friends in a cozy bar

Christmas in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, Dec. 20 2018

Craig and I had been looking forward to this for quite some time - Christmas in France with our son! It had been sixteen months since we had all been together. We arrived at the train station in Orléans to find Desmond waiting for us on the platform with his friend Will, and in no time at all we were checking in to our little AirBnB. We had chosen it mainly for its close proximity to Desmond’s apartment and it turned out to be so charming and cozy that we immediately felt comfortable. 

Nothing says welcome like a heart-shaped lock.

Craig and I were able to use self-check in with the door codes provided by our host. The apartment was in an old building with such thick walls that we rarely heard any outside noise. The little bedroom had lots of storage and a very comfy king-sized bed. 

Beautiful old beams in the bedroom

A little round window for a cozy vibe

A charming weather vane
overlooking the courtyard

The kitchen had everything we required, in spite of its minuscule size. The living/dining area had plenty of room for our needs. Our host had placed a little golden Christmas tree on the fireplace mantel, which was a welcoming touch. The bathroom, though small, was as sparkling clean as the rest of the apartment. 

Ready for Christmas

Desmond and Will had left us to unpack and rest for a bit. We brewed a small pot of coffee, put our feet up, and sent a few messages home to let our family know we had arrived safely. It had been about twenty hours since Craig and I left our house in Kansas but we didn’t feel tired or jet-lagged. We were ready to meet up with Des and Will. 

Within minutes, the four of us were walking across the bridge toward the Orléans Christmas market. Everywhere we looked, there were beautiful decorations. Store windows were filled with clever holiday displays that beckoned shoppers to step inside. Lampposts and flower urns were bedecked with swags of garland and twinkling lights.  We continued our stroll and could see the huge Ferris wheel up ahead, towering over the festive marketplace.

Old and new at the Christmas market

There were lots of interesting items for sale.

Wooden booths had been constructed and set up on the square, with garlands of greenery and lights strung overhead. Each booth sold products that were handmade or manufactured in France. Many of the little huts offered enticing food items such as sausages, cheese, chocolates, and other local specialties. 

We couldn’t resist for long! The aroma of rich, creamy tartiflette drew us to a booth where we made our selections. We found a place to sit and chat while we savored every delicious bite. A few feet away was another booth from which we purchased salted caramel crepes for dessert. Oh my, but they were tasty! 

The tartiflette was irresistible!

Waffles or crepes for dessert?

It was fun to wander among the cute wooden huts. I had spotted several items which I planned to purchase for Craig and Des later. I also gazed longingly at a few things which I hoped might show up beneath the Christmas tree for me! By the time we turned for home, Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long flight and were ready to settle into our cozy apartment. 

Prologue / Epilogue

I usually dive right into posting pages from my travel journal after returning from a vacation in France. This year is different. Everything is different. You see, my precious mother, Ruby, passed away on December 28. Craig and I and Desmond had just arrived in Lyon when we received the news. The memory of our first day there is a hazy blur of grief. We barely remember anything beyond our tears and sense of loss. 

Ruby Eileen Blaine had Alzheimer's disease and congestive heart failure. She was confined to a wheelchair due to a bad knee and the risk of falling. But those things do not define her. They did not and do not define the amazing woman who was a joy to all who knew her. 

My beautiful mom at age 18

Though mom had a hard life growing up, she remained an optimistic, energetic person who never let the dark days of her childhood cast shadows over her adult life. Her first marriage gave her a son and made her a widow in quick succession. She later married my dad, Wilbur. Tragically, they lost their first baby in infancy. It was a rough beginning to a long love story.

My parents on their wedding day

Vacations in Colorado were such good times!

As far back as I can remember, mom sang, laughed, and sparkled as she went about her daily activities. How she managed such a vibrant and positive attitude while cleaning, cooking incredible meals, and taking care of her husband and nine children was quite an accomplishment. She found time for church activities, many hobbies, and volunteer work as well. When dad passed away over a decade ago, mom's sparkle faded for quite a while. Though she never stopped grieving, she eventually regained her smile and shining light.

Sweetness through and through

Ruby adored her family, which grew and grew as the children reached adulthood and became parents themselves. It seemed she was always holding a baby in her arms. Her children, her grandchildren, her great-grandchildren, and even a few great-great grands were all special to her. She filled photo albums with pictures of her family. One of those was dedicated to Halloween shots because she loved seeing the kids in their costumes. Christmas, of course, was a special time for all of us because mom made it magical. She put so much love into everything she did.

Ruby holding one of her first grandbabies

Craig with mom.
Her baby doll brought comfort to her.

Just before Christmas.
This is one of the last photos of my mom.

I hadn't intended to make this a eulogy, so I'll end with saying that Alzheimer's disease didn't get the best of Ruby. She never lost her smile, her laughter, or her love for people. All people. She brought joy to all of her caregivers and the staff at the nursing home, and even the family members of other residents who would come to mom for a hug or one of her sweet smiles. And when mom would wheel herself through the facility, she'd stop to pat the shoulders of other dementia patients and give them a word or two of encouragement. She never stopped giving. She never stopped smiling. And she never stopped shining. So, shine on, sweet mama, shine on. Your light shall never be dimmed.

Mom in Hawaii with one of my children.