A Visit to Brittany

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, March 5, 2011 

So much has happened since our last visit to France. Desmond had chosen to return there to pursue his Master's Degree. That meant many changes for us, but we are happy for him. He is following his heart and living the dream! It wasn't easy. Work permits, visa problems, and other stumbling blocks had caused him a bit of stress, but things seem to be going smoothly for our son now.

On this day, we were off to Bretagne, or Brittany, France for a new adventure. Desmond had met us at the airport in Paris, and it was so good to see him again! We made our way to the Montparnasse train station, where we had to wait a couple of hours before departing for Carnac by way of Auray. It was very chilly in the station, and we were happy to find a warm, little cafe in which to have coffee and pastries while we caught up with Desmond's news. He seems to be so happy, and is looking forward to our visit to Carnac as much as we are. He had been there previously a friend, and wanted to share the experience with us.  

We were very impressed with the TGV. The quiet, gentle motion of this high-speed train was so soothing that we nearly dozed off. However, I was too excited to sleep, even though Craig and I had been traveling for over 20 hours. I enjoyed looking at the lovely scenery while chatting with Des. The forsythia was in bloom, as well as some red-bud and dogwood trees. The countryside was beautiful, with hills, streams, forests, and an occasional castle in the distance. We passed through several picturesque villages that looked so inviting.

The wonderful, high-speed train which whisked us to Brittany.

Desmond had packed a lunch for us to enjoy on the train. Our compartment had comfy, high-backed seats with a narrow table in the center. We munched our way across France on chicken salad sandwiches, madelines, and fruit. After lunch we played a game, which helped to pass the time.

I had reserved a hotel in Carnac called "Hotel de la Marine". It wasn't luxurious, but was clean, inexpensive, and had everything we needed. The bedroom was large and so was the bathroom. The beds were comfortable, and there was a table and chairs in the room as well, in addition to a television that we never switched on. We went for a short stroll through the charming village, spotting a couple of creperies that looked promising. Because it was "off-season", the town was uncrowded. The downside was that many business had not yet opened for the tourist trade.

Craig and Desmond, 
standing in front of our hotel in Carnac, France.

We ate an early dinner at a creperie called "Chez Marie". It had been there for 50 years, so we were certain that the food would be good. It was a charming place, warm and welcoming with old stone walls, slab tables, and beamed ceilings. The gallettes we ordered were all fantastic! I finally understood what Des had meant when he told me that I haven't eaten a crepe until  I have eaten a true Breton crepe. Craig chose a salmon gallette with salad on the side. Desmond ordered one with herbed mushrooms in butter, and mine was a heavenly combination of lardons, potatoes, Roblochon cheese, onions, and creme fraiche. We drank the wonderful cider that is the usual accompaniment to a meal of gallettes, and enjoyed everything so much that we planned to dine at Chez Marie at least once more. 

The delicious sweet cider is commonly served with gallettes.

Heaven on a plate in Carnac, Brittany, France. 

Recipe: This recipe for Gallettes Bretonnes is from Desmond. You're welcome.

La Tour Eiffel

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, February 21, 2009.  

It was chilly and a bit grey as I left the hotel with Craig and Desmond, in search of the Eiffel Tower. We knew it was just a few blocks away, but were uncertain as to which direction. We simply began walking, hoping to spot the top of the tower, which would give us our bearings. By the time we had reached Les Invalides, we knew we had taken the wrong route. As we turned back, we could just see the top of the tower above a nearby Haussmann-style apartment building. It wasn't long before the famous monument came into full view. As we approached the Eiffel Tower, we were ourselves approached by some of the many beggars and con artists which frequent the area. We lingered in the area long enough to snap some photos and gawk at our surroundings, before turning toward the nearest Metro stop. We would return to the Eiffel Tower later. 

My first ride on a subway. 
Hey, I'm from Kansas! Don't judge.

We chose to leave the Metro at Montmartre, and were pleasantly surprised at the bustle of activity at the Place du Tertre, where there are still many artists striving to make a living. The square was alive with painters, mimes, and other artisans. 

Artists and tourists at the Place de la Tertre, Montmartre.

We continued our stroll, and soon found that we were hungry. We halted at a streetside deli, where we purchased sandwiches. Soon, we were outside again, gaping at the beautiful Parisian scenery in true tourist style. I still felt as if I were walking around in a daze. At one point, we went into a little cafe for coffee and hot chocolate. As we headed back toward Rue Cler, we came upon a flea market taking place along the sidewalk. It was fun to browse, but quite soon we were ready for a return to the hotel where we enjoyed a refreshing nap. 

It was a bit early for dinner, unless you're still on Central Standard Time, but we chose a charming brasserie on Rue Cler where we all ordered steak, which was served with a Bearnaise sauce, fried potatoes, a light salad, and a fresh baguette. We also enjoyed a carafe of the house wine. We declined dessert, which isn't easy when you're in France and there is undoubtedly a crème brûlée lurking just around the corner. After leaving the restaurant, we headed back over to the Eiffel Tower, where we were treated to a breathtaking view as the sky darkened and the lights on the tower began to glow. It was truly magical! Everything still had a dream-like quality. I'm not sure if it was the jet-lag or the knowledge that hey, here we are! We are in PARIS! 

Craig and Desmond, approaching
 the Eiffel Tower on a grey, February day.

Recipe: Dijon Mustard Pork Chops. This simple recipe is one of the first I tried. I love recipes using mustard because of the way it mellows during cooking. The sauce in this dish is wonderful over potatoes, pasta, or rice. Bon appétit!