It Feels Like Home

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, Dec. 21 2018

Craig and I slept late in our comfortable king-sized bed. The apartment was cozy and warm and we felt very much at home there. We brewed a pot of dark, aromatic coffee and nibbled on a few Madeleines which Des had provided for us. Before long, we were headed over to Desmond's place just a couple of blocks away. We were looking forward to spending more time with Will. We had just missed Desmond's roommate, Art, who had crossed us on his way to America where he would spend Christmas with his family.

Azur was warm and cozy in his new bed.

Des had planned a wonderful lunch for us. He made a Korean dish of bulgogi, which is one of my favorite meals. Rice and roasted broccoli were the perfect accompaniment. Will contributed dessert to the meal. It was a delicious tarte tatin, with a wonderful caramel topping and lots of whipped cream. We enjoyed chatting with Will. He is a fun person to talk to and I'm glad he and Des are friends. 

After lunch, Desmond had to leave for work and Will needed to head back to Paris. Craig and I decided to pay another visit to the Christmas market before going grocery shopping. It was fun to wander around at the festive market and I purchased a few small items for family members at home. We then boarded a very crowded tram for a ride to the supermarket. We bought coffee and other necessities and on the way home we picked up some pastries. It was pleasant to relax in our comfy apartment and enjoy coffee and pastries while sending a few messages to relatives at home.

A Paris Brest in the shape of an eclair

When Des returned from the university, we shared a snack of sausage, cheese, and bread. Later, we went into town where we were meeting friends for drinks at l'Atelier, a cozy bar on the Rue de Borgogne. It was good to see Jeffrey and Chris again, and we met a few new people, too. One was a young German man named Karl, who was couch-surfing around the country and was currently staying with Jeff. Everyone enjoyed talking to him about his adventures and about life in Germany. We all talked and laughed for three hours! By the time we made it home, none of us were hungry, so we just called it a night.

A festive evening on Rue de Borgogne

Drinks with friends in a cozy bar

Christmas in France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, Dec. 20 2018

Craig and I had been looking forward to this for quite some time - Christmas in France with our son! It had been sixteen months since we had all been together. We arrived at the train station in Orléans to find Desmond waiting for us on the platform with his friend Will, and in no time at all we were checking in to our little AirBnB. We had chosen it mainly for its close proximity to Desmond’s apartment and it turned out to be so charming and cozy that we immediately felt comfortable. 

Nothing says welcome like a heart-shaped lock.

Craig and I were able to use self-check in with the door codes provided by our host. The apartment was in an old building with such thick walls that we rarely heard any outside noise. The little bedroom had lots of storage and a very comfy king-sized bed. 

Beautiful old beams in the bedroom

A little round window for a cozy vibe

A charming weather vane
overlooking the courtyard

The kitchen had everything we required, in spite of its minuscule size. The living/dining area had plenty of room for our needs. Our host had placed a little golden Christmas tree on the fireplace mantel, which was a welcoming touch. The bathroom, though small, was as sparkling clean as the rest of the apartment. 

Ready for Christmas

Desmond and Will had left us to unpack and rest for a bit. We brewed a small pot of coffee, put our feet up, and sent a few messages home to let our family know we had arrived safely. It had been about twenty hours since Craig and I left our house in Kansas but we didn’t feel tired or jet-lagged. We were ready to meet up with Des and Will. 

Within minutes, the four of us were walking across the bridge toward the Orléans Christmas market. Everywhere we looked, there were beautiful decorations. Store windows were filled with clever holiday displays that beckoned shoppers to step inside. Lampposts and flower urns were bedecked with swags of garland and twinkling lights.  We continued our stroll and could see the huge Ferris wheel up ahead, towering over the festive marketplace.

Old and new at the Christmas market

There were lots of interesting items for sale.

Wooden booths had been constructed and set up on the square, with garlands of greenery and lights strung overhead. Each booth sold products that were handmade or manufactured in France. Many of the little huts offered enticing food items such as sausages, cheese, chocolates, and other local specialties. 

We couldn’t resist for long! The aroma of rich, creamy tartiflette drew us to a booth where we made our selections. We found a place to sit and chat while we savored every delicious bite. A few feet away was another booth from which we purchased salted caramel crepes for dessert. Oh my, but they were tasty! 

The tartiflette was irresistible!

Waffles or crepes for dessert?

It was fun to wander among the cute wooden huts. I had spotted several items which I planned to purchase for Craig and Des later. I also gazed longingly at a few things which I hoped might show up beneath the Christmas tree for me! By the time we turned for home, Craig and I were beginning to feel the effects of our long flight and were ready to settle into our cozy apartment. 

Prologue / Epilogue

I usually dive right into posting pages from my travel journal after returning from a vacation in France. This year is different. Everything is different. You see, my precious mother, Ruby, passed away on December 28. Craig and I and Desmond had just arrived in Lyon when we received the news. The memory of our first day there is a hazy blur of grief. We barely remember anything beyond our tears and sense of loss. 

Ruby Eileen Blaine had Alzheimer's disease and congestive heart failure. She was confined to a wheelchair due to a bad knee and the risk of falling. But those things do not define her. They did not and do not define the amazing woman who was a joy to all who knew her. 

My beautiful mom at age 18

Though mom had a hard life growing up, she remained an optimistic, energetic person who never let the dark days of her childhood cast shadows over her adult life. Her first marriage gave her a son and made her a widow in quick succession. She later married my dad, Wilbur. Tragically, they lost their first baby in infancy. It was a rough beginning to a long love story.

My parents on their wedding day

Vacations in Colorado were such good times!

As far back as I can remember, mom sang, laughed, and sparkled as she went about her daily activities. How she managed such a vibrant and positive attitude while cleaning, cooking incredible meals, and taking care of her husband and nine children was quite an accomplishment. She found time for church activities, many hobbies, and volunteer work as well. When dad passed away over a decade ago, mom's sparkle faded for quite a while. Though she never stopped grieving, she eventually regained her smile and shining light.

Sweetness through and through

Ruby adored her family, which grew and grew as the children reached adulthood and became parents themselves. It seemed she was always holding a baby in her arms. Her children, her grandchildren, her great-grandchildren, and even a few great-great grands were all special to her. She filled photo albums with pictures of her family. One of those was dedicated to Halloween shots because she loved seeing the kids in their costumes. Christmas, of course, was a special time for all of us because mom made it magical. She put so much love into everything she did.

Ruby holding one of her first grandbabies

Craig with mom.
Her baby doll brought comfort to her.

Just before Christmas.
This is one of the last photos of my mom.

I hadn't intended to make this a eulogy, so I'll end with saying that Alzheimer's disease didn't get the best of Ruby. She never lost her smile, her laughter, or her love for people. All people. She brought joy to all of her caregivers and the staff at the nursing home, and even the family members of other residents who would come to mom for a hug or one of her sweet smiles. And when mom would wheel herself through the facility, she'd stop to pat the shoulders of other dementia patients and give them a word or two of encouragement. She never stopped giving. She never stopped smiling. And she never stopped shining. So, shine on, sweet mama, shine on. Your light shall never be dimmed.

Mom in Hawaii with one of my children.

Making a List (of what to pack)

Well, it's nearly time to start packing! In less than three weeks, Craig and I will be experiencing the Christmas season in France! We can hardly wait to see our son, and look forward to sharing the delights of the holiday with him. 

There is much to do here at home before we go. We will celebrate an early Christmas with our daughters and their families. We're grateful that some of them will be house-sitting for us and taking care of our dog and cat. Spending time with both of our moms ranks high on our list as well. It's difficult to think about leaving those two sweet ladies for a few weeks, though we know they'll be well cared for in our absence. This will actually be our first Christmas away from Kansas! 

Oliver, watching for squirrels.

This is what Bella does when she sees our suitcases.

While in France, we will be taking a side trip with Desmond to visit Lyon for a few days. Des was there briefly a couple of years ago and has told us about some of the interesting sights to explore, from the Roman ruins to the lifelike murals, the museums, and so much more. 

On New Year's eve we'll travel to Paris, where we will enjoy a special treat. I have reserved an apartment which has a partial view of the Eiffel Tower! We can toast the new year while viewing the fireworks display without having to leave our lodgings. Craig must fly back to the U.S. the next day, due to commitments at work. Desmond and I will return to Orléans, where I can enjoy another nine days with him. 

May your holiday season be filled with love and laughter. Best wishes to all of you in the coming year. 

Checking In

I have been on hiatus for a few months, and now it's time to let everyone know I'm still around! It's amazing how active the lives of retired persons can be. Craig and I have been busy this spring and summer with projects around the house, the yard and garden, visits to and errands for both of our mothers, and a myriad of other activities. 

A recent visitor

This is part of the lovely courtyard my mom enjoys.

In April, it felt strange not to be flying to Europe. When Kansas summer weather began in June, my thoughts returned to France and the good times we had enjoyed there last year with Desmond. Though we struggled through a few exceptionally hot days, we all managed to have a splendid vacation.

Our next visit to France will be very different from previous years. We have decided to spend Christmas with Desmond! Our plane tickets have been purchased (at an amazingly low price) and our lodging has been reserved and paid for. We are thrilled to be staying in a little apartment merely a two-minute walk from Desmond's place.

Over the years, I have seen many beautiful photos and articles regarding the Christmas markets in France. Desmond has described them as well, and we are looking forward to the experience. Mulled wine, hot chestnuts, and handmade gifts are only a few of the delights that await. 

It will be a treat to enjoy the festive season with our son.This will be the longest time we will have been apart since his move to France. We miss him terribly, and though we are thankful for FaceTime and text messages, we want more! Anticipation is a good thing, though, isn't it?

Summer in Kansas is too hot
 for even the squirrels!

Au Revoir for Now, Paris!

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, June 26 2017

We all slept in a bit and woke to a lovely, cool morning. We were in for another rather warm day, but as it was our last day in Paris, we were determined to make the most of it. Craig and Des went out to the nearby bakery, where they picked up some delicious pastries for breakfast. We all shared the fresh beignets and Tropezienne. 

Craig and Des return
 with pastries for breakfast.

After breakfast, we walked toward the Eiffel Tower and then took the stone steps down to river level. We had decided that a good way to show more of Paris to Janey would be to ride on the Batobus. The water taxi was a fun and convenient way to visit many of the attractions along the Seine. We cruised slowly down the busy river, enjoying the architecture and other lovely sights along the famous waterway. 

A pretty view down the Seine.

The Orsay Museum,
which is still on my bucket list.

Yes, I could live there!

The four of us disembarked at the stop for the Louvre. We weren't planning to visit that iconic museum on this trip, but instead were heading for the Japanese neighborhood not far from the grounds of the Louvre. Desmond led us to a restaurant where he had previously enjoyed a meal. We perused the extensive menu and each of us chose a different ramen noodle bowl for lunch. It was very authentic and quite delicious.

A freshly made ramen noodle bowl in Paris.

Leaving the restaurant after that delightful meal, we ambled slowly along the picturesque street, window shopping. We stepped into a Japanese market, where Janey especially enjoyed browsing. She purchased some treats for herself and also bought items for her friends at home. Soon, we were headed back toward the landing on the Seine to wait for the Batobus.

The sun warmed the interior of the boat, and we were all beginning to feel the heat. We looked forward to cooling off with a dish of ice cream at Berthillion, but soon realized that we would have to backtrack quite a bit to get there. 

Janey cools off on the stern of the boat.

We remained on our little boat until we reached the Trocadero, and as we walked back toward our apartment, we knew we would find a shop which sold ice cream. It turned out to be more difficult than we anticipated, but we eventually located a bar which sold ice cream. When the waiter placed the frosty dishes on the table, Desmond thanked him in with a cheerful "merci, monsieur". He replied in a slightly mocking tone, "Oh, you speak French very well, I see.", at which point Des answered back with a long stream of French, telling the waiter that of course he had better speak French well as he had lived in the country for ten years and taught at the university of Orleans. The look on that waiters face was priceless, and he actually apologized! We chuckled all the way back to the apartment.

So tasty on a hot day in Paris!

And then it was time to pack. Desmond and I struggled with our bags, trying to decide which items to take with us to Florida, and which to stuff into our larger suitcases for Craig to take back to Kansas. Craig went to bed early, but Desmond, Janey, and I decided that our visit to Paris would not be complete without a goodbye to the Eiffel tower. We walked back to the Trocadero, where there was a festive atmosphere. Lively music filled the air and there were small groups of people dancing. Some had spread blankets on the grass and were enjoying a light meal or a bottle of wine. Many other tourists were scrambling around, looking for the best vantage point from which to view the iconic Iron Lady as she lit up the evening sky. The three of us sat on the concrete edge of one of the fountains and watched the sun begin to set behind the Eiffel Tower. The coolness in the air was refreshing, and as the Eiffel Tower lit up and began to sparkle, a cheer arose from the waiting crowd. Janey threw her hands in the air and yelled "I can't believe I'm in Paris!"  

The camera just couldn't capture
 the beautiful spectacle of the glittering lights.

Four for Paris

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, June 25 2017

We woke early so that we would all have time for showers before Desmond, Craig and Janey left for the Catacombs of Paris. They were hoping to arrive in time to avoid a long wait in line and said they would pick up pastries for their breakfast along the way. I had decided not to accompany them because of my claustrophobia. Wandering around in dank underground passageways lined with millions of human bones did not appeal to me. I lingered over my coffee for a while, with the windows open to the coolness of the morning and the distant sound of cathedral bells ringing. It wasn't long before I ventured out of the building and strolled along the tree-lined streets of Paris, peeking into store windows. Most shops and even many bakeries are closed on Sunday, but I was certain that I would discover a boulangerie or patisserie nearby that was open. It didn't take long to locate one, and I stood patiently in line, eyeing the delectable treats which were on display in the glass cases. When it was my turn, I purchased a cafe eclair and headed back to the apartment to enjoy it with some fresh coffee.

My Sunday breakfast in Paris

Afterward, I tidied the rooms and then sat down with my iPad to see if there was a nearby covered market to visit. I was pleased to find that the Passy Market was just a four-minute walk from my location. An article I read about the markets of Paris stated that it is one of the best covered markets in Paris and went on to say that the baguettes there are not to be missed. The market was a truly amazing place, filled with color, culinary delights, and enticing aromas. I had fun choosing fresh fruit from one stall, a jar of onion jam from another, some duck mousse from still another stall and then was delighted to find the famous baguettes. While I was shopping, Craig called to see what I was up to and he, Des, and Janey decided to join me. They also enjoyed the market, but soon were ready for a break, so we walked the short distance to our temporary home. They told me all about their visit to the Catacombs and showed off some photos as well.

Fresh delights at the Passy Market.

So much from which to choose!

Janey in the Catacombs of Paris.

Desmond in the Catacombs.

We made up a little indoor picnic with the duck mousse, onion jam, the baguette, ham-wrapped boursin bites, sushi, crispy bits of duck fat (which are probably supposed to be a salad topping), and fresh fruit. I told everyone that I was thrilled to have snagged one of the popular baguettes before the stall ran out, and we could hardly wait to try it. Well, my exciting purchase soon turned into a joke as we discovered it was rock-hard inside and out! It was like trying to slice and eat a baseball bat! In fact, that baguette was so hard that it could have been used as a weapon! Desmond said that perhaps I had been given the display baguette and I think that he may have been correct.

An indoor picnic in Paris.

We left the apartment and began walking toward the Trocadero and the Eiffel Tower. Janey was in awe of the Iron Lady, and of course we took lots of pictures. There was the usual crepe stand nearby, and while my little party was standing in line, I backed up to snap a photo of them. The two ladies working the stand immediately began yelling at me to stop and made it very clear that we were not take any pictures of them. I thought this seemed odd, because we were visiting one of the most popular tourist sites in the world, where everyone takes pictures!  After a very long wait, during which we began to wonder if we were being punished for photographing them, one of the ladies finally handed us our crepes and we walked off toward the fountains of the Trocadero. 

Janey at the Trocadero.

The day had warmed and there were tourists lounging on the grassy areas and some were even splashing around in the basin of the huge fountains in spite of a lovely cool breeze. We passed one of the carousels, with its load of happy children. We sauntered across the Pont d’Iena, the bridge which spans the Seine. Security around the Eiffel Tower had changed tremendously from our last visit. A fence surrounded the base of the tower, and everyone who wanted to enter the area had to submit to a bag search and a once-over with an electronic wand. Once inside the fenced area, we had lots of room in which to stroll around and enjoy the view. There were no pressing crowds and no beggars or street performers, so we were able to focus our attention on the massive iron structure above us. 

It was a beautiful day for a climb.

Janey and Des pause for a photo
on the stairs of the Eiffel Tower.

My intrepid adventurers decided to climb the stairs to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. After all the walking they had done on their jaunt to the Catacombs, I was surprised but I settled myself on a bench in the shade and happily enjoyed people-watching as I waited for the climbers to return. All around me I could hear many different languages as tourists from all parts of the globe chattered excitedly while they photographed the iconic iron landmark towering above. When Craig, Desmond, and Janey reached their destination, they purchased cold drinks (avoiding the 12-euro glasses of wine) and rested a bit before making their descent. 

A view from the across Paris from the Eiffel Tower.

The four of us then rode the metro to Montmartre. Desmond climbed the stairs to the top where the Sacre Coeur Basilica overlooks Paris, while Craig, Janey, and I rode up in the crowded Funicular. We made it to the top just a few seconds after Desmond. We found our way to the famous Place du Tertre. In existence since 1635, the square was buzzing with artists and tourists. By then, it was time for lunch. We chose to sit outside in a shaded area and ordered meals from Le Sabot Rouge. I chose roast chicken with a candied thyme sauce, accompanied by crispy fries, Janey and Craig each had a pasta dish, while Des enjoyed a big helping of moules frites. I was surprised that Janey chose not to try one of the mussels; She had been quite adventurous on our vacation so far. We all enjoyed our food and the lively surroundings. 

Moules frites in Montmartre

The entire square was lively and festive, with artists at work, chattering tourists, music, street performers, and more. We found an artist to do a charcoal sketch of Janey as a gift for her mom. While the artist was at work, I wandered through the square taking photographs and admiring the many different styles of paintings that were on display.

Our next stop was Sacre Coeur. Because it was Sunday, the cathedral was crowded with worshipers hearing mass, but we tourists were being allowed in to a limited part of the impressive cathedral. We all walked around very quietly and reverently. Once outside, we walked down the massive staircase, admiring the view of Paris which lay below. We were fortunate to be entertained by one of the most famous street performers in Paris, Iya, who does an incredible show by climbing a light pole and using a soccer ball in a very athletic  and acrobatic display of talent. 

Sacre Couer on a busy Sunday in Paris

The lovely view from the steps of Sacre Coeur Basilica.

Iya put on an incredible performance
 of strength and agility.

Before we returned to our apartment, we stopped at a market and purchased items for a cold supper. It had been a wonderful and exciting day in Paris. We enjoyed showing the sights to Janey as we revisited one of our favorite cities in the world.