Tuesday, November 19, 2013

A Very Orange Stairwell

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, July 17, 2009

That morning, Desmond showed up at the hotel with fresh pastries. We woke up over coffee and conversation, and then left the hotel to explore. Our first stop was the public library, or bibliothèque. That may seem like a strange destination for tourists, but with the three of us having worked at our own local library, we just had to take a look. The library in Orléans is a large, modern structure not far from the train station. There are some lovely views from the huge windows overlooking the town. 


The library in Orléans. 

I couldn't resist taking a photo
 of the very orange stairwell at the library.

Once outside again, we took a wrong turn and were momentarily lost in a very old and lovely residential area. We soon located the tram, which took us across town to Auchan. Desmond and I enjoyed showing Megan around the huge store. I bought some cherries, which were sweet and delicious. The weather was drizzly and cool, but that did not prevent us from going back into town to shop. There are many unique stores on the main streets in Orléans and we had fun poking around in them. 

An interesting place we visited was Halles Chatelet, an indoor market with a wide variety of shops. The hall was built in 1882, and in 1977 was enclosed. There are bakeries and delis, in addition to clothing stores, a cheese shop, a butcher, and gift shops. I picked up a small container of strawberries at a fruit market, which were tiny and delightfully sweet. I couldn't seem to get enough of the delicious fruit there!

Dinner that evening was at Bombay, an Indian restaurant situated on the Rue de Borgogne. The food was wonderful and we had the added bonus of entertainment provided by a trio of musicians. Desmond and I purchased one of their CDs as a souvenir.


Desmond's year of study had almost come to an end. He would soon be returning to America and said he would definitely miss his friends in France, as well as the beautiful country, food, architecture, etc. 


Who Knew?

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, July 16, 2009

Who knew I would be returning to France so soon? When the opportunity presented itself, I jumped at the chance! Megan (Desmond's best friend) and I have just arrived in Paris after a 10 1/2 hour flight. We were more than ready to get off of that plane! The seats had seemed particularly uncomfortable, and even though it was an overnight flight, neither of us could sleep. As the plane began to make its final approach, we were treated to a view of the Eiffel Tower. What a lovely beginning to our French vacation! 

It did not take long for us to retrieve our luggage. We easily found the shuttle I had reserved for our ride to the train station. The trip there took over an hour, due to road construction. We hurried to a kiosk to purchase our train tickets, and managed to jump onto the train with two seconds to spare! It was a beautifully warm and sunny day; perfect for travel.

Desmond met us at the train station in Orléans, and it was wonderful to see him again. For the sake of convenience, we had decided to stay at the Ibis Hotel across from the Gare de Orléans. It was a pretty good deal, since I had made non-refundable reservations in advance for a super-low rate. The hotel was quite satisfactory. The rooms were a bit small, but the furnishings were clean and new, and the bathrooms were spacious.


Gare d'Orleans

Orléans seemed familiar to me; it felt wonderful to be back! The three of us set out immediately for a Chinese restaurant, where we sat outside and enjoyed a very tasty meal while we exchanged news. From there, we picked up a coffeemaker which we were borrowing from one of Desmond's friends. Later, we met some of Desmond's friends for drinks. Marie-Helene is the director of the Sister Cities program, her husband, Jean, is a chiropractor. We all had an enjoyable and interesting visit.

Place Jeanne d'Arc. Orleans France

                                       
A double-decker carousel at Place Jeanne D'Arc.

For dinner that evening, we were to meet up with another friend, Arno. Desmond, Megan, and I decided to take the tram back to the hotel to deliver the coffeemaker before meeting Arno at the restaurant. Our warm, sunny day had given way to cloudy skies, and as we returned to the center of town, a downpour began. We made a mad dash for the restaurant, and discovered how difficult it is to run on wet cobblestones! We arrived soaked to the skin, laughing and shivering. Arno had fared no better. We dried out over a leisurely dinner of fabulous French pizza. It was so much fun to sit with these vibrant young people and laugh the night away.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at The Lodge for a nightcap. I was dreading a noisy bar, but this was actually a quiet place where we could indulge in conversation along with our drinks. By the time we made it back to the hotel, I was exhausted and ready for sleep.



It's good to be back!

Travel Tip: There is no need to obtain Euros in advance of your trip. Simply locate an ATM at the airport, where you will get the best exchange rate, and you're all set!

France, I Will Miss You!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, March 1, 2009

I awoke before the alarm, to the enticing aromas from the kitchen below. We opted out of breakfasting at the hotel. I'm sure it would have been delicious, but at 11 Euros per person, it seemed a bit pricey. We finished our final packing and then headed downstairs, where we had two taxis waiting. It was very difficult to say goodbye to Desmond as we sent him off to the train station. We will miss him terribly. Our week together had flown by all too quickly. It was such a fun and relaxing vacation, and was a time of catching up with our son. 

We breakfasted at the airport, where the food was surprisingly good. Our flight left on time, and here I sit, somewhere over the Atlantic ocean, with my journal, reading over what we have done, and jotting down a few "observations":

1. I had always read that the hotel rooms in France are tiny, and that the bathrooms are minuscule. Our experience so far has proved that to be untrue. Even the public bathrooms are different than expected. Most of them were very clean. Each one was a bit different. A couple of them had self-cleaning seats, and some had no seats at all, but at least provided antiseptic wipes with which to clean the porcelain rim.

2. The French love their dogs, and take them everywhere. So - watch where you step. 

3. Orléans has very little crime. We felt safe there, even when walking late at night.

4. The French seldom strike up conversations with strangers. They rarely make eye contact. Shop clerks are very businesslike, and hardly ever smile. If you attempt the language, they will usually respond in a friendly manner, even if you have mangled the words. Just remember to always greet them when you walk in.

5. Food is meant to be slowly savored. It's a very visual experience. Each dish is beautifully and artfully presented. (And keep in mind that we were not dining in expensive restaurants). And no doggie bags! It's almost unheard of.

6. No ice. The only time I had ice in a drink was at the Hard Rock Cafe.

7. The pastries, breads, and candies are phenomenal! They are all works of art. The variety of breads is unlike anything I have seen in America, even in large cities. The pastries and cakes are beautiful; the tarts almost too pretty to eat. The candy shops are amazing, with outstanding quality and variety.

8. French supermarkets are quite interesting. The meat department has, in addition to what we would find at home, rabbit, lamb, horse, tripe, tongues of several different species, ditto the heads, ostrich, kidneys, pig ears, whole (with heads and feet still attached) ducks, geese, chickens, turkey, quail and their eggs, and other birds. And then there's the fish: oysters, mussels, scallops, squid, octopus, and every kind of fish you can imagine, all without wrappings, displayed on beds of crushed ice. Vegetables are mostly inexpensive, with a huge variety available. A large bag of onions was priced at 1 euro, but three ears of corn would set you back 3 euros. (We later learned that most French people consider corn on the cob to be animal feed.) Dairy products are mostly unrefrigerated. And the CHEESE! There are around 400 different types of cheese in France. It's a cheese-lovers paradise. There are several aisles of wine, and you can purchase good ones for only a few dollars. 

9. Household furnishings are expensive. A small bath rug was priced at a minimum of 12 euros. A small, freestanding wooden shelf was 40 to 50 euros. We did manage to find a cheap toaster for Desmond. It was only 13 euros. The crock-pot we bought for him was 30.

10. Everyone wears scarves. Men, women, and children. I saw them on at least 90% of the people there. I love scarves, and consider them to be a great fashion accessory.

11. The soft drinks we had were expensive, and were served in the bottle or can. It's uncommon to find a soft drink for less than 3 euros. And no straws! 

12. Sidewalk cafes! Yes, they are everywhere. It's such a pleasure to sit and enjoy people-watching while sipping a fragrant cup of coffee. During cold weather, most cafes simply hang heavy sheets of plastic, and turn on the space heaters

13. Not one of the hotels in which we stayed provided washcloths. I found this to be odd, but later learned that the French use bath mitts. However, I still found it strange that none were ever provided. Pack your own! You may want to consider taking along some of those disposable types. There were also no hair dryers in the rooms. We had to ask for one each morning at the front desk. We invested in one of our own after the first couple of days.

14. It's rare to find an electric kettle or coffeemaker in a hotel room. A cup of coffee can cost between 2.50 and 3.50 euros and is usually served in tiny cups with no refills. Hot chocolate (chocolat chaud) is served in larger cups and is rich and delicious.

15. French children seem to have better manners than American kids. They are carefully watched by their parents in public, and not just turned loose to run wild. The fathers seem to take a very active role in caring for their children. 

16. I loved my experiences in France, even though ours was a budget vacation. We tried new foods, saw some spectacular sights, and learned a lot about the people, their history, and their culture. I can't wait to go back!

A view toward the Eiffel Tower from Montmartre.

Amélie Slept Here

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, February 28, 2009

After visiting the Montmartre Cemetery, we returned to the hotel and found our room, which was actually a lovely suite, the "Amelie Poulain" suite. It was quite roomy and charming. Our bedroom had a pretty white iron canopy bed, and Desmond's room was equipped with twin beds, an armoire, and a little writing desk. There was also a small, triangular room which contained a large desk, two iron chairs with pretty cushions on them, and a tray on the desk which was laden with packets of coffee, tea, and raisin cake. It was a treat to have a kettle with which to make coffee and tea. The bathroom was also large, with a teak vanity, a tub/shower combination, and a towel warmer. The only negatives were the lack of a view and those stairs! I had read reviews of the hotel and understood that there was a lift, but did not realize that the lift did NOT service the suite, which was the only room at the top of a long, narrow staircase. It was awful for Craig, Des, and the porter to have to wrestle our heavy luggage to the room. All was forgiven once they opened the door and saw the rooms. 


One of our rooms at the Hotel Prima Lepic, Paris, France

After a short rest, we set out in the direction of Sacre Coeur Basilica. It was not a long walk, but we were trudging up hills and many stairs. It was well worth the climb, though I would recommend the Funicular next time! Sacre Coeur is enormous and very beautiful, looking almost as if it were constructed of sugar. We went inside to view the lovely domes, stained glass, sculptures, and paintings. The crowds were so thick that it was difficult to walk on the sidewalks and stairs and we were afraid of becoming separated. On such a beautifully warm day, it seemed that all of Paris was outside! There were many street performers - mimes, jugglers, musicians, and others. There was a violinist who was excellent. He smiled broadly as he played, and truly seemed to be enjoying himself, so we tossed a few coins into his case.

The happy violinist.

Basilica Sacre Coeur

The view over Paris from that height is spectacular! You can see for miles across the city, to the Seine, the Eiffel Tower, and beyond. The population of Paris is over 2 million, and when you include the metro area, it swells to 12 million! A bit mind-boggling to this small-town Kansas girl. We walked slowly back to the hotel, picking up a few more souvenirs along the way, and as always, snapping lots of photos. We lingered in the Place la Tertre, where the many artists were busily plying their trades. The sun shone through the bare branches and the few new green leaves that had cautiously opened in the warmth, dappling the square with shadows. The laughter of children rang out as they happily rode the carousel, and lovers strolled hand-in-hand through this romantic, postcard-perfect scene. 

After another brief rest at the hotel, we hailed a taxi for the ride to the Hard Rock Cafe. While not a place I would have chosen in which to dine in France, we wanted to give Des the treat of some "American" food. On the way to the restaurant, in the taxi zooming down one of Montmartre's steep hills, we all cried out "whee" as we whooshed downward. I later thought how odd it must have seemed to our French taxi driver, who surely wondered why those crazy Americans were yelling "Oui" as they went downhill! The Hard Rock was crowded and noisy, but the food was good and the Cokes were served with ice! Desmond really enjoyed dining on barbecue for the first time in months, and we had a good time looking at the memorabilia and shouting to each other over the loud music. 

Au Revoir, Orléans

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, February  28, 2009

Whew! We made it to Paris! We settled into the Hotel  Prima Lepic in Montmartre. We arrived by train before noon and took a taxi to the hotel. It was a perfect, warm, sunny day and the streets were packed with pedestrians. I couldn't imagine having to drive anywhere!

I need to back-track just a bit. The night before, we had dinner at Volpone in Orleans, which was Desmond's favorite place to go for pizza. It was very crowded, with it being a Friday night. We squeezed into our places at a small table in the noisy room and ordered our pizza. French pizza was unlike any I had ever tasted. It was fantastic! My selection was a combination of mushrooms, onion, cheese, and lardons (that tasty smoky, stuff that is like a cross between ham and bacon. It is more flavorful and tender than Canadian bacon) atop a base of creme fraiche. Craig and Des both ordered pizza with a red sauce, lardons, and two or three different kinds of cheese, plus the unusual addition of an egg, sunny-side-up atop the pizza! Desmond urged us to try it, and it was really quite good. There was a bottle of pepper-infused olive oil on each table, and we drizzled it onto our pizza for a surprisingly good punch of flavor on an already delicious pizza. Each pizza was plate-sized and was more than adequate. In fact, Desmond and I could not quite finish ours. 

It was late when the three of us returned to the Ibis. We had chosen to walk off some of our meal, and the 20 minute stroll in the cool night air was refreshing. We packed most of our things, setting aside what we would need for the morning. Craig and I awoke before Des, so we walked over to Paul to pick up some breakfast pastries. Craig chose a couple of his favorite fruit-filled pastries, while I picked out a chocolate-filled beignet. We ordered pain au chocolat for our son, but apparently our French got a bit muddled along the way, because we ended up with a couple of pastries that were studded with raisins. Des was surprised when we walked in with breakfast treats, as he had thought we had only gone out for coffee. 

Our train ride to Paris was pleasant, with the sun shining in a clear blue sky. On the outskirts of Paris, we passed an area of high-rise apartment buildings in a slightly rundown neighborhood. I saw the usual towels and rugs draped over balcony railings, but had to smile when I saw a bicycle hanging from one of the rails! 

Gare d'Austerlitz in Paris


Upon arriving at Gare d'Austerlitz, we had no trouble procuring a taxi to the hotel. It was early, so it wasn't surprising to find that our room was not yet ready. We stowed our luggage in a large closet behind the front desk, and set off to find some lunch. A short distance down the street, we ordered sandwiches from a small stand on a corner near the hotel;  panini for Craig and I, and a sausage and cheese crepe for Desmond. As I stepped back to snap a photo, I noticed that we were right next to the Moulin Rouge! We found a bench in the median on the Boulevard de Clichy, and and enjoyed our sandwiches, tossing a bit of crust now and then to the one pigeon, which in no time became 20 pigeons. A cheeky sparrow flitted down into the mob of bigger birds to grab a crumb or two.

After lunch, we wandered around, checking out the sights and avoiding the many sex shops in the district. We shopped for a few souvenirs (NOT in the sex shops, thank you very much!) and then walked several more blocks to the very old Montmartre Cemetery. It was actually quite interesting to see the many old gravestones and the numerous ornate crypts. Some of them resembled small chapels! We saw a beautifully marked tabby cat curled in the sun atop one of the headstones. 

This Parisian kitty has found a peaceful, sunny spot for a nap.


 

Poulet Roti

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, February. 27, 2009

Desmond arrived midmorning and we headed out to Auchan to buy groceries for him, but first stopped in Flunch for a quick breakfast. No shopping on an empty stomach, right? I enjoyed my tasty trio of beignets - plain, raspberry filled, and chocolate filled. Des chose a marbled chocolate and coconut tart. Craig ordered a triple fruit tart which was made with apple, raspberry, and rhubarb atop a layer of custard.  It was such a fun experience to walk around in a large French superstore. The prices were interesting, with some items much higher than I though they would be. For example, a little plastic basket with suction cups for the shower: 11 Euros! Many other items were much less than I had expected, such as a baguette for 37 cents, a big bag of onions for 1 euro, and a large jar of jam for 50 cents. That same jam is imported to the U.S., where it sells for nearly $5 a jar! Anyway, it was fun. We went back to Desmond's apartment to put everything away.


We visited this park, which is built atop a movie theater.

A nice view from the rooftop park 

We then wandered around Orléans for a while, stopping to see a little park near Desmond's apartment. It is unique in that it is built atop a movie theater. There were nice views from up there and I could see just how beautiful it would be just a little further into spring. 

We spent some time on the banks of the Loire, before finally heading back toward our hotel. We made a quick stop at a market, where we purchased a golden brown, crisp, rotisserie chicken and some chips and fruit to eat in our room. Now, let me tell you about that chicken! In France, you will often see the rotisserie chickens (poulet roti) in wheeled, glass ovens out on the sidewalk in front of a shop. The plump birds roasting on their slow-turning spits send enticing aromas wafting up and down the street. You will be tempted to buy one of those chickens even if you aren't hungry! Below the spits, you will often see a pan heaped with cubed potatoes which are being continually basted with the savory, fragrant drippings from the meat cooking above. In the hotel room, we tore into the juicy chicken with our bare hands, as not one of us had remembered that we would have need of utensils! It was a tasty and memorable meal, as we talked and laughed, using some of my precious washcloths as napkins. The chicken was amazingly delicious and tender. The chips were like a cross between Munchos and Chipsters and were shaped like little smiling ghosts or monsters. The grandkids would love them! In fact, they were called "Monster Chips". I had purchased a bottle of Coke - the first one I had tried in France. I had forgotten that Des once told me how much better the soft drinks taste here, because they are made with sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup. I could really taste the difference. When we finished our indoor picnic, we walked across the street to the train station to purchase our tickets to Paris. Our trip was beginning to draw to a close.


Craig and Des enjoy a quiet moment beside the Loire.


TRAVEL TIP: You may want to pack some of your own washcloths when traveling to France. They are not provided in many hotels. The French prefer to use bath mitts, but I have yet to find one in a hotel there.

Art Museums and Creperies

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, February 26, 2009

We were a bit lazy that morning, and just sat around for a while drinking coffee. I'm very glad we had purchased that coffeemaker several days ago. It has been wonderfully convenient as well as a money-saver!  A cup of coffee at a cafe runs about 2.50 to 3.50 - and that's in Euros! The Illy espresso we bought is delicious. It's actually an Italian espresso. It's very fragrant and flavorful; strong but smooth. 

Des arrived at the hotel around lunchtime. We walked over to Stratto, where we had eaten once before, and since I still wasn't quite ready for lunch, I ordered an apple tart. Craig and Desmond had sandwiches. There was some commotion in the street outside the cafe. It was a parade of protesters - the teacher's strike, I believe- and some of the streets were blocked for a while.

Soon, Des had to leave for school. Craig and I walked over to the art museum, Musée des Beaux-Arts. We really enjoyed our time there, though I wish more of the information had been in English. Or that my French was better! The museum has a nice collection, which includes paintings by Picasso, Gaugin, Van Dyck, and sculptures by Rodin and Bandinelli. They also have the largest collection of pastels in France, outside of the Louvre.

We later browsed in some of the shops in town. I enjoy looking at the clothing, though not much of it is suitable for a 57-year-old grandma! It was inevitable that we found a pastry shop, where we purchased some treats to take back to the hotel. There, we brewed another pot of fragrant coffee and enjoyed our little snack.

I'd like to try ALL the pastries!

Desmond joined us at the hotel after he returned from work. We walked to a little bar where we met his friends, Mathieu and Arno, for a drink. Arno is a very nice young man who speaks flawless English. Craig and I enjoyed trying a Monaco for the first time. It's a refreshing drink made from mixing carbonated lemonade with grenadine and beer. Arno joined us for dinner later at the Cafe Bretonne. It is a creperie, and we were looking forward to trying the galettes (savory crepes) that Des had spoken of. He said that these are the best he had tried outside of Brittany. We enjoyed our evening very much. The creperie was a charming place; long and narrow, high ceilings with old beams, the walls decorated with collections of teacups and old coffee grinders. The heavy wooden farmhouse tables were spread with cloths in warm colors. Fresh water arrived at the table in a hefty earthenware jug with cups to match. I'd like to have a set like that, myself!  We shared a bottle of fermented, sweet cider from Brittany, which is traditionally served in pottery cups or mugs. It was delightful. Our gallettes were fabulous. It was difficult to choose, but I had one made with mushrooms, herbs, and creme fraiche. Desmond ate one which featured potato, ham, cheese, and caramelized onion, which he gave me a taste of. It was outstanding! All of the gallettes are served with a huge pat of butter melting on the top. For dessert, we all simply had to order - what else - a crepe! Mine was a delicious combination of banana and caramel, Des chose chocolate and orange, Craig ate a caramel crepe, and Arno a Nutella crepe, and Mathieu enjoyed a crepe flambe of apple and pear. It was such a fun meal. We had all been trading tongue twisters and words that are difficult to pronounce in both languages, and we were often laughing until tears came to our eyes! 

Here are just a few of 
the many coffee grinders decorating the creperie.

After dinner there was just enough time for us to drive over to Auchan, which is a large chain store somewhat like a Super-Target. We bought a crock-pot for Des and we also got him some speakers for his computer. He often enjoyed watching movies on his computer, since he didn't yet own a tv. The speakers would make it a much better experience. Our son was thrilled with the  gifts. He said it felt like Christmas! Tomorrow we would like to buy a toaster for him. And some groceries. Yep, even in France we have that need to feed.

Recipe: Don't be intimidated by this recipe for French cream puffs. It's really very simple. Your friends and family will be awed by your expertise!