Castles Large and Small

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Tuesday, April 29, 2013

Craig and I got up earlier than usual so that we could meet Desmond at the train station for a day trip to Blois. Though the morning was overcast and chilly, the trip through the French countryside was still beautiful. By the time we reached Blois, the weather had become drizzly but since we had remembered to bring umbrellas, we weren't really inconvenienced. Our first stop in the lovely town was a patisserie, of course. We carried our bag of goodies over to a nearby cafe, where we asked if we could consume them there, along with the coffee we would purchase. Soon, we were seated at a table in the cozy back room where we enjoyed our mid-morning snack. I tried a new pastry - a Paris Brest - and was not disappointed. It is made of choux pastry, split and filled with a rich toasted hazelnut cream and topped with powdered sugar and toasted almonds. I have a new favorite! The shape of the Paris Brest is said to resemble the wheel of a bike. The pastry was created in 1891 to commemorate a famous bicycle race between Paris and Brest.

Paris Brest and café crème. Worth the trip.

We toured Chateau Royal de Blois after finishing our snack. It was fairly small, as castles go. It has been home to 10 kings and 15 queens. The furnishings were quite lovely, and we enjoyed reading about the history of the chateau. 

Here's your ride up to the castle. 

A royal bedchamber in Blois Chateau.

We then made our way down to the bus stop for the shuttle to the Chateau de Chambord. The long drive along the Loire was very picturesque, even though the day was still overcast and rainy. As the bus pulled up to the entrance, we noticed a group of people on horseback and felt a bit sorry for them riding out in the rain. There are wonderful riding trails on the 13,000 acres surrounding the castle, through beautiful old forests.

Just inside the entrance to the castle grounds there were many outbuildings and tents set up where vendors were selling souvenirs, wine, cheese, and other items. There were also several restaurants there, and we thought it would be a good idea to have a bite before touring the huge castle. We dined leisurely on gallettes, quiche Lorraine, and herb-roasted chicken before finally making our way into the magnificent chateau. Chambord is huge and very ornate. It is said there are 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and 84 staircases. There are very few furnishings inside. The massive structure is extremely expensive to restore and maintain; it is an ongoing work. What we saw was really quite amazing.

The double-helix staircase, which is rumored to have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci, is an architectural wonder! Also wondrous is the roofline of the huge castle. It was commissioned by Francois I to resemble the skyline of Constantinople. It is certainly very unique and interesting. The chateau was originally a hunting lodge, and there is a trophy gallery where many sets of antlers hang on the cold, stone walls. Outside, you will find a moat and acres of beautifully manicured and landscaped lawns surrounded by thick forest. Boats and bicycles are available for rent, though on this day it was too cold to even consider such a thing.

Chambord Castle. And to think it was once a hunting lodge!

A section of the double-helix staircase at Chambord.

Several hours later, we were chilled through. We sighed with relief after boarding the warm bus for the ride back to Blois. We had intended to wander around the town for a while, but the damp chill discouraged us. We headed toward the train station, stopping first at a patisserie where we warmed up over coffee and pastries, laughing as Craig practiced his French. He is of German heritage, and when he speaks French, it comes out with a German accent!

Upon returning to Orléans, we rested for a bit and then we all went to a bar where we met Fanny and her five-year-old daughter, Jade. Craig and I were delighted to meet these friends of Desmond whom we had heard so much about. We had brought along some bottles of bubble solution for Jade, and she was soon happily blowing bubbles in the bar. We invited Fanny and Jade to join us for dinner, but the invitation was politely declined, as they were leaving for a vacation in the Alscace, where Fanny has family.

Des had wanted to introduce me and his dad to his favorite pizza restaurant, but they were closed for some reason, so we walked a bit further to an old favorite, Volpone. We had our meal outside, where the tables were surrounded by heavy sheets of plastic. Space heaters were scattered about the enclosure, emitting a comforting warmth. The pizza was as wonderful as I remembered, especially with the pepper-infused oil to drizzle on top.

Joan of Arc Was Here

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, April 28, 2013

We slept in that morning, and after waking up over several cups of strong, fragrant coffee, we set out to meet Desmond. Even that small thing was a pleasure - walking the few blocks to catch the tram, enjoying the beauty of the morning and the lovely architecture of the old buildings surrounding us. It was a glorious, sunny day and we all welcomed the warmth. We strolled around town, heading toward the Cathedral of St Croix. We stopped at a little bakery along the way, where we bought some sandwiches for an early lunch. We ate them in the open air, sitting beside the fountain across from the magnificent cathedral. After lunch, we had time for a short tour of the structure before we were to meet with Desmond's students. The cathedral was breathtakingly beautiful both inside and out. The high, vaulted ceilings and the intricate stained glass windows were incredible!

A view inside the Cathedral of St Croix in Orleans.

One of the many beautiful stained glass windows.

After the tour, we hopped onto the tram for the half hour ride over to the University of Orléans where we had an enjoyable time visiting with several of Des's students. One of them generously bought coffee for everyone, and another had brought along a paper bag filled with fresh, warm chouquettes, which are little puffs of pastry sparkling with pearl sugar. It was fun chatting with the students as they practiced their English, and I enjoyed learning something about them and the regions or countries from which they had come.

On our way back to the center of town, we stopped at a small market adjacent to the University. Nearby, we saw a sculpture that looked very familiar. It was a smaller version of Blackbear Bosun's "Keeper of the Plains", which stands tall above the river in Wichita, Kansas. This miniature version was a gift from Wichita, which is a sister city to Orléans. 

The Keeper of the Plains, a gift from Wichita.

Here is the original Keeper of the Plains.

Later, we bought a few pastries and took them down to the banks of the Loire, where we sat contentedly in the sun, enjoying our snack. The speculoos eclair I had chosen was delightful. Craig was happy with an apple tart, and Des munched a delicious-looking cherry tart. 

A tasty snack to enjoy by the Loire.

A boat on the Loire in Orléans, France.

We had our evening meal at the Grec Gourmand, where we had dined on previous occasions. The kebab sandwich and fries were tasty and filling. We had a bit of time to kill before the beginning of the Fêtes de Jeanne d'Arc, so we played a game of Phase 10 back at Desmond's apartment. As we were playing, we began to notice many people making their way down to the banks of the Loire. Most of them were wearing medieval costume. Many band members also passed by, and we were soon following them down to the river. It was not quite dark when we reached the water's edge, and we were able to find a good vantage point from which to view the opening ceremony of the festival. There were many soldiers holding torches, and mock battles were taking place along the walk but soon all eyes turned toward the water, as Joan of Arc came sailing across. She disembarked and mounted a beautiful white horse to begin the long procession to the Cathedral. We were swept up in the crowd, and walked along for most of the way, hearing the speeches, but not understanding more than a word or two. As we continued down the Rue de Borgogne, it was fun to see many people almost hanging out of their apartment windows to witness the spectacle below. At one window, I counted at least eight people laughing and jostling for a view. It was a fun evening for all of us.

Waiting for Joan of Arc. 

RECIPE: Honey Peppers
This is a tasty side dish is simple and delicious! Just seed one or two red bell peppers and cut into strips. Saute the strips over medium heat in a mixture of equal parts olive oil and honey until the desired tenderness is achieved. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Serve hot.

Meanwhile, in France...

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday, April 27, 2013

Just another beautiful day in France! Craig and I awoke to some very welcome sunlight streaming through the shades. It was so pleasant to be able to brew a pot of coffee in our little kitchen and enjoy the strong, fragrant beverage while listening to some soft music. 

This was our view outside Halles Chatelet 
as we enjoyed our eclairs.

We made our way across the river to Halles Chatelet, where we purchased a couple of delightful caramel eclairs and then sat outside in the sun while we enjoyed them. Desmond came into view not long after we had finished. We all had plans to meet some friends of theirs for a picnic, but due to an illness, the plans had to be changed. The three of us decided to visit Parc Floral, the botanical gardens in Orléans. We rode the tram out to Parc Floral de la Source. Des had packed a picnic lunch, and we were going to eat right away, but some clouds had moved in and it began to sprinkle. We instead visited the Butterfly House. 

It was lovely and warm inside the butterfly house. There were many beautiful and unusual butterflies fluttering about. The plants in there were lush and gorgeous. It was difficult to photograph the butterflies because the humidity inside kept fogging my camera lens. When at last we emerged into the park again, the rain had stopped. We located a picnic table near a tiny chapel on the grounds and unpacked the lunch Desmond had prepared. The ham and cheese sandwiches on crusty baguettes were delicious, as was the rich, hot chocolate. We were intrigued by the three flavors of chips - goat cheese bugles, roast chicken and thyme, and Bolognese! 

A beautiful resident of the Butterfly House at Parc Floral.

After lunch, we began to explore the park. It was absolutely wonderful, and I can't even begin to properly describe it! Even though it was a bit early in the season for the blooming plants, there was so much to see. Trees trimmed into fanciful shapes dotted the landscape, along with naturally growing species of every kind. There were several sculptures, a cute train to ride on, and even a charming watermill on a stream. Everywhere you turn, you will discover something unique and beautiful.

So picturesque!

There is even a little zoo, and a charming playground for the children. The place is enormous, and we did so much walking - but it was worth it. We especially enjoyed La Source, the spring that is indeed the source of the Loiret. It is a very large spring, though it flows quietly in its secluded grove. We explored Parc Floral for hours. It is such a delightful place. 

La Source, the beautiful spring in Parc Floral.

That evening, we visited Aurelie and Tonio, friends of Desmond, who live in a beautiful stone house that is at least 350 years old! I loved the beamed ceilings and the warm stone walls. Aurelie and Tonio are a charming couple who both speak a bit of English. We enjoyed the apero that was prepared for us, and nibbled on several different types of cheese along with olives, sausage,  pâte, duck mousse (a favorite of mine), crusty bread, and tiny pickles. There was a selection of beer and wine as well. We enjoyed the meal, talking and laughing. Later, we played a noisy game of Pit, which was fun. I was glad the building had such thick stone walls so we would not be disturbing anyone! 

I Could Get Used to This!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, April 26, 2013

Whew! Getting there wasn't easy, but Craig and I finally arrived in Orléans Friday afternoon. Our flight out of Wichita was repeatedly delayed (four hours!), which caused us to miss our connection in Chicago. We were put onto a flight to London, and because we sat on the tarmac for an hour, we nearly missed our connection at Heathrow. We had to make a mad dash to the British Airways terminal, where we boarded a flight at the last minute and then, at last - we were in Paris! Of course, we still had the long taxi ride to the train station, and then the hour-long train ride to Orléans. After almost 24 hours of travel, Craig and I were very glad to see Desmond! After an early dinner at an Indian restaurant, we were welcomed to the little apartment we had rented just across the Loire in Orléans.

It had been two years since our last visit. Things were wonderfully familiar to us. It felt as if we were coming home. Speaking of home - the cozy apartment we rented through HomeAway was perfect! It had everything we could possibly need. The living/kitchen area had lots of storage and the tiny kitchen was well equipped. There was a large bathroom with a fantastic shower. The roomy bedroom contained a dresser, an armoire, and a desk, in addition to the very comfortable bed. Our hosts, Pascal and Nathalie, were warm and friendly, and provided us with instructions on how to operate the washer and dryer (how convenient!) and the other appliances. In the kitchen, we found coffee, sugar, tea, hot chocolate, and some candy. Des had brought us a carton of cream and a couple of his homemade muffins, so we were all set for the morning.

This tiny kitchen had everything we needed.

Our cozy bedroom at the apartment we found on HomeAway.

We met up with Desmond first thing the next morning and had breakfast at Paul, near the market where we needed to do a bit of shopping. By the time we had finished our shopping and put our purchases away in our temporary home, it was midday. We walked around a bit, until we spotted a brasserie, and there we had lunch. The croque monsieur I ordered was very good (it's a French version of a grilled ham and cheese sandwich) and Craig seemed to enjoy his delicious ham and cheese omelet, which was served with fries. Desmond ordered the plat du jour, which turned out to be golden-brown roast chicken, fries, and a salad. 

After lunch, with Desmond's friend Matt joining us, we caught a bus into Olivet, where we located the Promenade des Moulins, which is a trail along the Loiret (a river which feeds into the Loire) that still has many old watermills alongside.  Most of them seemed to be inhabited and looked as if they were well cared for. The riverbanks were thick with trees. There are many old, beautiful homes along the river, though they are mostly hidden in the foliage. Many of the homes had elaborate boathouses as well. At one point along the trail, we came upon a breathtakingly beautiful meadow. The sloping ground was thickly carpeted with grass and tiny wildflowers. It resembled a fairyland. 

One of the many old mills along the Promenade des Moulins. 

The weather had turned cool and overcast, and as we continued our walk, a slight breeze sprung up. We turned a corner and were delighted to discover a rustic little building housing a snack bar offering coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and pastries. There were bright, lime green canvas chairs scattered about, but we chose to sit at a log-hewn table with stumps for seating. We rested our feet while we enjoyed the warmth of the hot drinks. A pretty little wooden bridge spanned the river before us, and alongside was another beautiful, old stone mill. We continued our explorations, and saw a large flock of swans floating serenely on the river. Though we had not walked the entire length of the Promenade, we had to call it quits soon after stopping for refreshments, for we were to meet with Mathieu's parents that evening.

A beautiful boathouse along the 

Promenade des Moulins.

Muriel and Thierry met us at Desmond's apartment shortly after we returned to town. After hugs and kisses and an exchange of gifts, we set out for Chez Ming, a Chinese restaurant on the Rue de Borgogne. Miranda, the lovely owner (who is Chinese and speaks perfect English) made us all very welcome and had even prepared a special appetizer of shrimp toast, knowing it was Desmond's favorite. He was delighted, and we all enjoyed the scrumptious treat. We had a special cocktail, also. It was a blend of sake, lychee juice, and other spirits that I cannot remember. It was quite tasty. The buffet meal was excellent. Everything was freshly prepared and served in small portions so that fresh food was always on offer. It was an excellent meal and I can understand why Chez Ming is a favorite. 

When we all returned to Desmond's home, Muriel and Thierry treated us to a delicious strawberry tart and a glass of Vouvray, which is a delightful wine from the Loire valley. It was a delectable ending to a lovely day. I could get used to this!

A Return to Versailles.

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Sunday March 13, 2011

It was a fun and busy day, though tinged with a bit of sadness knowing that it was our last full day in France. We began with a walk to a patisserie near the Moulin Rouge, where we all picked out some delightful treats for breakfast. We then walked across the street to a Starbucks (a rare treat for Desmond) and we sat outside enjoying our petit dejeuner and our view of the street. It was already busy with tourists and locals scurrying about. 

Not a bad view at breakfast.

A view of Boulevard de Clichy from Starbucks.

We boarded the Metro at a stop nearby, and were soon on our way to Versailles. Jennifer got a kick out her first-ever subway ride. The double-decker train we switched to at the end of the Metro line gave us some interesting views during the 45 - minute ride to Versailles. We were treated to an impromptu accordion serenade on the way, and dropped a few coins into the musician's cup in thanks. 

                                                                                                                                                      

                                            

Once off the train, we simply followed the crowd to Versailles, but were dismayed at the enormously long line for admission. We turned back toward town, where we found a wonderful cafe in which we had a delicious lunch. Des ordered the lamb chops, Jennifer and I each had the braised chicken, while Craig enjoyed his veal which was smothered in a mushroom-cream sauce. Jennifer experienced another first - a Kir Royale, which she found to be delightful. 

Returning to the Chateau, we found the lines to be much shorter, and soon we were wandering around the opulent palace. The stunning Hall of Mirrors, the Music Hall, and the other amazing rooms we visited were a feast for the eyes.  It was very crowded, and at times we feared becoming separated in the throng. It was a relief when we finally went outside onto the grounds. By that time, we all had tired feet, so we willingly shelled out the extra cash for a tram ride around the magnificently landscaped parc and down toward Marie Antoinette's little palace. We were too tired even to peek inside. We left Versailles soon after and made it back to the center of Paris by dinnertime. We had planned to walk around a bit to scout out a good restaurant, but settled instead on the nearby Flunch. It was fun and interesting, especially for Jennifer, who had never before eaten there. 

It was hard to believe our visit had come to an end! Jennifer would stay on for a while, and accompany her brother to Orléans, where she would enjoy her time spent in getting to know the town. I have no idea when my next visit will occur, but I am already thinking of the future.

There is so much to see beyond the golden gates of Versailles.

Tired tourist feet.

TRAVEL TIP: When visiting a museum or other large space, first designate an area where you can all meet if anyone becomes separated from the group.

A Visitor Arrives!

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, March 12, 2011

What a busy day this was! We awoke at 5:00 AM so that we could make it to CDG in plenty of time to meet Jennifer's plane. This would be her first trip to France, and she was very happy to be able to see her brother and enjoy a memorable vacation. It was so good to see Jennifer's smiling face when she arrived. She looked so fresh and pretty and awake! It was hard to believe that she had been traveling for almost 20 hours. 

We headed back to the hotel right away, so Jennifer could drop off her cases. We then began to walk in the direction of the Seine, though first stopping to introduce Jennifer to real French pastries. She happily enjoyed the pain au chocolat while I nibbled on three flavors of mini-macarons. Craig chose an eclair, but Des wasn't really hungry. Leaving the patisserie, we soon found the river, and Jennifer was thrilled at her first sight of the Seine and the Eiffel Tower! We boarded a Batobus for a tour on the Seine, and I enjoyed watching the expression on Jennifer's face as she gazed, enthralled, at the fabulous architecture.

Such a lovely view. 

We hopped off the boat at the Eiffel Tower, where we purchased crepes at a little stand. They were actually pretty good, and of course Jennifer got a kick out of it. Just sitting on a bench as we ate, looking at our surroundings, was a thrill. 

Then, it was back on the boat to head toward our next stop - Notre Dame.  It was magnificent - especially those glorious stained glass windows.

 

Notre dame as seen from the boat.

Jennifer and Craig in front of Notre Dame.

Our next stop was the Louvre. The line at the entrance was horribly long. We couldn't even get down to the basement gift shop, so we turned away, disappointed. All of us were beginning to feel a bit tired, anyway so we hailed a taxi to return to the hotel for a brief rest.  

After our batteries were recharged, we set out to explore, visiting a few shops before deciding on a cafe for dinner. We had a very pleasant meal at the Cafe de Luna where we were seated next to a window overlooking the busy street. Our meals were tasty, and we all enjoyed the mousse au chocolat and the creme brulee for dessert. The following day would be our last full day in France, and Craig and I were feeling a bit sad.

Mousse au chocolat and creme brulee - who could resist?

Au Revoir, Orléans; Bonjour, Paris!

The holidays are over, Desmond has returned to France, and all of us are getting back into the routine of everyday life. The following story is from March 2011, as I continue to chronicle my past journal entries into this blog. 

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: March 11, 2011

Our time here in France was speeding by. We checked out of the Jackotel, stowed our luggage in Desmond's apartment, and went shopping. Des was at work, so Craig and I were on our own. We wandered in and out of the quaint shops in Orléans, purchasing treasures to take home. At midday, we found a little place for lunch on a backstreet near Halles Chatelet. It turned out to be a sports bar, complete with numerous screens showing sports events and with many spectators/bettors; all men. I was the only woman in the place, excluding the waitresses. There was no menu board, and we struggled a bit to explain that we simply wanted a sandwich and a soft drink. A man came over to help us, saying "I speak English", but honestly, I think those WERE the only English words he knew. He somehow managed to convey that he thought I was beautiful and that Craig's mustache was crooked. To our great relief, he was soon led away by another customer.

We returned to Desmond's place and found that he had not yet eaten. We accompanied him to a sandwich shop, where Craig and I enjoyed pastries while the our son had lunch. I tried my first macaron, which was crazy good, and Craig had a luscious strawberries and cream tart.

It's time to leave Orleans again.

Then it was time for Desmond to pack. We made it to the train station with twenty minutes to spare, and even though the train was a long one, we were unable to find any empty seats. We stood for quite a while, until at last someone disembarked at Etampe. Upon arriving in Paris, we soon located our hotel, the Ibis Montmartre. The room is good-sized and has a bathroom that we can actually move around in. We look forward to sightseeing tomorrow.