Soon!

March 24, 20014

It won't be long now! Plans are in place for our next adventure in France. Craig is unable to be away from work for very long, so I will begin the journey without him, and he will follow eight days later. I'm looking forward to staying with Desmond. He will be on break from school and work, so we'll have lots of mother-son time.

I have difficulty lifting anything over twenty pounds, due to an old back injury. With that in mind, I have decided to travel with only a carry-on. Craig will bring more of my clothing when he arrives, but I really believe I can do this! I pulled out my small suitcase a couple of weeks ago to see just how much (or how little) I could pack. I was pleasantly surprised. I was able to pack 3 pairs of long pants, 4 shirts, socks, underwear, pajamas, a travel pillow, my noise-canceling headphones, iPad, a pair of shoes, a couple of scarves, and a bare minimum of toiletries. Des will have shampoo and conditioner, and I can also do laundry while I'm there. In my purse I will have room for my Kindle and camera. I plan to wear my coat and sweater on the plane. They will come in handy as extra "blankets" for that overnight flight. 

I can hardly wait to walk down those cobblestone streets again! We have plans to make a day trip to Tours, which I am really looking forward to. I have heard so much about it and have seen some lovely photos. Speaking of photos, here is one of my favorites:

A very old door in Orleans, France.

That door caught my eye one evening while walking next to Desmond's friends as we were all heading toward a restaurant on Rue de Borgogne. I paused to admire the door and to snap this picture. I was informed that the carving around it was approximately 600 years old! I enjoy taking photos of old doors, even though it feels as if I am intruding, somehow. If I can see that the occupants are at home, I would not shoot a photo without permission. There are many beautiful and unique old doors in France; it's hard to resist them!

Here is another photo I especially like:

A tour boat on the Seine, in Paris.

On our last full day in France, we will be do the usual sightseeing, plus a dinner cruise on the Seine. Won't that be a wonderful way to end our visit? 

Not Cut Out For Cruising

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: March 14, 2014

A few weeks ago, my husband and I set sail on our first cruise vacation. It was something I had never expected to do. You see, I hate the water. I have a very deep fear of it. It's difficult even for me to watch underwater scenes on television or in movies. Many friends and family members had told me that once I tried a cruise, I would be hooked. They told me it was the ultimate vacation, but I had my doubts. So. The verdict? I'm not cut out for cruising.

I did NOT have a miserable time. I have never had a miserable vacation. I try to make the best of any situation, even if it means smiling while sitting in a campground in the pouring rain, holding a mosquito coil on my lap and shivering because there is still a burn ban. Ah, but that's another story. I had fun on the cruise. I really did. But I'm not hooked. I doubt if I will ever book another cruise, unless it is a river cruise. The endless ocean outside my balcony window was beautiful, but my underlying fear of the water kept me from completely relaxing and enjoying myself. I needed to be able to see the land. Or at least another ship. I hid my fear well. No one else on the cruise had any idea of what I was feeling, except for my dear, patient husband.

The ship, Royal Caribbean's Allure of the Seas, was nothing short of magnificent! It is a marvel and I am glad that my first (and perhaps only) cruise took place on that behemoth. The ship had so much to offer in terms of entertainment and activities, there was no way we could have experienced it all in one week.

The Allure of the Seas

Our ports of call were Nassau, St. Thomas, and St. Martin. I enjoyed watching from our balcony any time we were entering or leaving a port. It was amazing to me how deftly the huge ships were maneuvered. The clear, turquoise water of the Caribbean sea is mesmerizing, and I never tired of looking at it. We found Nassau to be a colorful, busy port. We visited the Straw Market so that I could purchase a hat and then we wandered about, looking into the shops which all seemed to carry identical souvenirs. We discovered a quilt show in progress at an old, local church, and spent an enjoyable hour looking at the gorgeous quilts and talking to the friendly ladies of the quilting group. Later, we returned to the ship and had a leisurely meal on our balcony while being treated to a lovely view of Nassau.

A view from our balcony stateroom.

Our second port-of-call was St. Thomas. Craig and I had visited there several years previously when we were heading to a resort on the island of St. John. St. Thomas is lovely. We rode the aerial tram up to Paradise Point, where we had lunch with some friends while enjoying the beautiful view from atop the peak. Later, we wandered around the shops for a bit and then returned early to the ship.

That huge ship? Yes, it's the Allure of the Seas.

I was thrilled at the prospect of visiting St. Martin, because the island is half Dutch and half French. I was looking forward to spending some time in Marigot, on the French side. I had heard that it was a charming place filled with cute little shops and cafes; a little taste of France in the tropics. After a long, slow, taxi ride with 12 other people, crammed into a van with no air conditioning, we arrived in Marigot to discover that it was really just another big shopping extravaganza, which is what I now perceive most cruise ports to be. It seemed that most of the other passengers from the ships were delighted by the prospect of yet another jewelry store, clothing boutique, or souvenir shop, even though they were identical to those in our previous ports-of-call. My husband and I wanted to explore. We wanted to visit a museum or a cultural icon; learn a bit about the history of the island. After a walk along the waterfront and a glance at the crumbling fort overlooking the throngs of shoppers, we hailed another taxi and made our way back over to the Dutch side of the island. By then, the temperature had climbed to 90 degrees and we were ready for a cold drink. We planted ourselves at a table on the noisy but shady deck of the Sunset Bar and Grill at Maho Beach. There, over drinks and lunch, we were entertained by a very loud band playing a variety of music from reggae to calypso to classic rock and roll. But the highlight of the afternoon was watching the jumbo jets come in low over the beach to land at the adjacent airport. We watched as many beachgoers willingly placed themselves in position directly in the flight path of the huge planes, and were subsequently tumbled into the water by the force of the blast from the jet engines. It was really quite comical to watch, though we had no intention of playing that game ourselves.

Plane-watching on the beach at St. Martin.

After our ship departed St. Martin, we had a couple of days at sea while we returned to Ft. Lauderdale. We kept ourselves busy on board by participating in several activities, attending the wonderful shows, and we also gave ourselves plenty of time to just relax. The cruise was an enlightening experience, and as I mentioned earlier, I am very glad that I went. However, Craig and I prefer the freedom of not being tied to any schedule, and not being surrounded by so many people. We enjoy exploring, dining at unique restaurants, and wandering through museums. We like to become acquainted with the town or village in which we are staying. We like to remain several days or more at one location so that we can really get to know the area and its history.

Now we are looking forward to our upcoming trip to France. Since Craig is unable to get away from work for very long, I will be flying out ahead of him and will stay with Desmond for about a week. When Craig arrives, he and I will check in to the Jackotel, which is near Desmond's apartment.  After a few days in Orleans, we will travel to the beautiful town of Annecy. We will be able to take a day trip or two into Switzerland, which is a country we have always wanted to visit. I'm counting the days!

Anticipation

Thursday, January 23, 2014

So now we are back to the present. 

I have finished adding the entries from my travel journals, documenting the memories of my trips to France. I will go forward from here, and plan to pepper these new posts with some of my favorite pictures from previous trips. 

As Desmond says,
 "Because stairs always lead to adventure." Blois, France

Craig and I are anticipating our next adventure in France. We have plans to visit the beautiful town of Annecy, which is close to the Swiss border. We may also spend a day or two in Switzerland, if things work out.

 A beautiful street in Blois, France.

RECIPE: Here is a delightful French yogurt cake recipe from Kristin Espinasse, who writes a wonderful blog "French Word A Day". (I highly recommend that you subscribe.) I make this cake often, sometimes using lemon yogurt and adding a bit of lemon zest. I love to top it with fresh blueberries and a dollop of whipped cream to which more lemon zest has been added.

Must we go?

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, May 4, 2013

All too soon, it was time for us to leave France and return to Kansas. We had awakened at 7:00 and dressed quickly, so that the three of us would have time for pastries and coffee before the taxi arrived at 8:30. We picked up our breakfast of eclairs and then grabbed coffee and hot chocolate at a cafe near the patisserie. We carried our treats back to our hotel room and had a good laugh when Des showed us his cup of thick, rich, chocolate with the spoon standing straight up in it! It didn't take long for us to finish packing the last few items. It was such a sad moment when the taxi arrived and we had to say goodbye to our son, who was leaving on the Metro to catch a train back to Orléans. Our time together had passed all too quickly and I tried to hide my tears as we sped toward the airport.

The flight home was smooth and uneventful. The layover in Chicago was long enough for us to have lunch and kick back, though it was very hard to relax after the way we had been treated at customs. We were very upset that our seven dry sausages had been confiscated. It was the type of sausage that requires no refrigeration and will keep for six months even after it has been sliced. The officer treated me as if I were a criminal, speaking very harshly and ripping open the bag of sausage with his knife, even though I told him the package was open on one end. I always check the customs website before each trip out of the country, but had apparently overlooked the section regarding meats. It was a very sour note on which to end our vacation. However, we have many happy memories of our trip that will stay with us forever. We are already looking forward to next year! 

Early morning in a cafe on Rue Cler.

Savoring Paris

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, May 3, 2013

Craig and I awoke early and lingered over our coffee and pastries, reluctant to begin packing. Desmond  arrived to help us with the luggage and as we were stowing the last few items, he kindly washed the dishes. We left our little home-away-from-home and as we were walking out, Pascal and Nathalie arrived with a parting gift of a bottle of local wine. We chatted for a bit about our adventures and our love for the area, and then we snapped a few photos of each other before leaving. The tram wasn't crowded at that hour, and we made it to the train station easily.

The train to Paris was what we Midwesterner's would call a "milk run". It stopped at every village along the way. We didn't mind, as we were not in a hurry. When we finally arrived at Gare d'Austerlitz, we had no trouble getting a taxi for the ride to the hotel. We were staying once again at the Grand Hotel Leveque on the charming pedestrian street of Rue Cler. The drive through the streets of Paris was very nice. I never tire of looking at the beautiful architecture. Trees were beginning to leaf out and flowers were blooming everywhere. April in Paris. A dream-come-true.

You can just make out the Eiffel Tower, upper right, 
behind these lovely buildings.

Our chambre on the 4th floor was ready, but it took two trips in the tiny lift to get all of our bags up there. The room had been recently redecorated and was quite attractive; it had a clean, modern bathroom. We opened the windows to enjoy the sights and sounds of Rue Cler before setting out to explore. There was a bakery on the corner which had a great selection of quiche, sandwiches and other savory items, so we sat down and ordered a quick lunch. I really enjoyed the tomato and onion tart I had chosen.

The view from our room at the Grand Hotel Leveque.

We began our stroll once again, enjoying the hustle and bustle of Paris as we walked the few blocks to the Eiffel Tower. A strange sight greeted us as we approached the lofty structure. There were several huge girders standing straight up beneath the tower and reaching to the first level. Signage indicated that these steel posts were temporary, as solar panels were being installed on the tower. It was a relief to know that they would be soon be disassembled, because they certainly detracted from the beauty of the iconic Tour Eiffel.

Ah, Paris! I wish I could put you in my pocket!

There were the usual long lines of tourists waiting for access to the elevators and the stairs, but we passed them by and wandered to the banks of the Seine where we crossed the bridge to the Trocadero. From there, we had expansive views of the Eiffel Tower and the Seine. For once, we were not accosted by con artists and beggars. In fact, we saw very few street people anywhere. We did buy a handful of keychains from a young man who was apparently unlicensed, because he seemed very nervous, and bolted when a security guard appeared.

The view from Trocadero.

We continued along the banks of the Seine, crossing another bridge and hoping to find the famous bookstalls of the bouquinistes. We had visited them on a previous occasion and enjoyed browsing there. However, we soon discovered that the walk would have been longer than our tired feet could manage, so we turned once again toward Rue Cler. We popped into a few souvenir shops along the way, and also visited a couple of small grocery markets. I wanted to find some duck mousse and some pork rillettes to take back to the U.S. Before long, we were back at the hotel. We rested for a bit, and then Desmond and I set out together. We enjoyed looking around in the markets and stores. We also scoped out the area for possible restaurants for our evening meal. Prices are very high on Rue Cler, so we explored a few of the side streets and found a couple of promising places.

A lovely flower stall on Rue Cler.

When Craig was ready to go out again, we chose to dine at a charming brasserrie called "Au Gros Calliou". As it was still a bit early for dinner, the restaurant was not crowded. We had a very nice waitress who brought us menus printed in English, though we all decided to order from the little blackboard menu with the specials chalked upon it. For starters, Des ordered the caprese salad, while Craig and I both chose onion soup. It was scrumptious! Our main course arrived - we had all chosen steak, with rib-eye for Craig and Desmond, and flank steak with sauteed shallots for me. The steaks were accompanied by a basket of bread, salad with a vinaigrette, and the best fries I have ever tasted in my life. I don't usually finish all of my fries, but they were so good I could not leave them alone. The herbed mayo to dip them in was an added treat. Then came the dessert: mousse au chocolat for Des, and the creme brulee for Craig and myself. Even though we were stuffed, we somehow managed to spoon up every rich, creamy bite.

We strolled leisurely back to the hotel, where we rested a bit before setting out once again for the Eiffel Tower. We arrived just as the sun was sinking, and settled ourselves on the cool grass. We had found a little fence on which to lean against as we watched the Eiffel Tower begin to glow. There were quite a few people who had spread blankets on the grass and were enjoying a picnic or just a glass of wine. Several men were walking about in the twilight, selling wine for 4 Euros a bottle, but we declined. The three of us lingered, taking in the sights, until we began to feel chilled. With one last, lingering look at the Eiffel Tower, we turned and made our way back to the hotel.

The Eiffel Tower at twilight.

Day Trippin'

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, May 2, 2013

We were up early again to catch another train. This time, our day trip would take us past Blois to Amboise, where we would visit Château du Clos Lucé. Leonardo da Vinci had resided at Clos Lucé during the last few years of his remarkable life. Desmond had visited before and knew this would be something that both Craig and I would enjoy. The weather was cool and overcast as we arrived, but we had hopes of sunny weather later in the day.

The village of Amboise is absolutely beautiful. We admired the lovely architecture as we ambled along in search of a patisserie for a belated breakfast. We soon found a charming little shop near the river that offered lots of pastries and many different kinds of baguettes and rustic breads. Some of the loaves had been baked with a large hole on one end, and they were hanging from wooden pegs at the counter. I wish I had thought to take a picture. 

After our delightful breakfast, we set off across the bridge spanning the Loire, heading toward Clos Lucé. The view of Château Royal d'Amboise was wonderful, even in the grey light of morning. It looked like a mighty stronghold, towering above the village and the river. We had decided to skip a visit to the castle in order to spend more time at the residence of Leonardo da Vinci. As we walked the cobblestone streets of the town, we passed many charming shops and enticing restaurants. It was a pleasant stroll along pathways lined with trees and flowers in bloom.

Amboise Castle in on a grey morning in May.

It wasn't long before we reached Clos Lucé. The line for entry was not a long one, and soon we were touring the buildings in awe of the man who had dwelt there, and at the beauty of the grounds. The house itself was well furnished and seemed almost homey. The areas in which da Vinci's fascinating inventions are displayed were well-lit and provided information in several languages. It literally gave me goosebumps to see the incredible works this man had created. He invented and/or perfected many of the items we still use today. 

Clos Lucé, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci.

Yes, even the lowly pipe wrench was created by da Vinci.

The expansive grounds are beautifully landscaped and feature many interactive displays with life-sized inventions that are actually operational. The tank, pumps, cannon, flying machine, and everything else was fascinating. There is a lovely stream flowing quietly through the property and there are many groves of moss-covered trees lending shade to scene. The sun had finally made an appearance as we wandered toward the dovecote. The stone structure was a large one which had housed over a thousand doves in their nesting cubbies. A large half-timbered building nearby was once the priory, but had been turned into a restaurant where the staff all wear medieval costume. 

The Priory, which is now a restaurant at Clos Lucé.

We wandered the grounds and toured the buildings for hours. This is a place I could definitely return to. It is simply fascinating. We made our way down to town by a different route, which afforded us some wonderful views of the ancient village below. By the time we had descended, we were more than ready for lunch. We found a table outside at one of the restaurants which faces Amboise Castle and were treated to a stunning view as we dined. We all chose the plat du jour, which happened to be lasagna. But first, we began with a starter. I selected a salad of shredded carrot topped with a delicious orange vinaigrette. Craig and Des asked for the pate, which was served with tiny dill pickles and crusty bread. Our lasagna arrived shortly, and it was fabulous!  

Amboise Castle, a lovely view to accompany lunch.

After that delicious lunch, we wandered the streets for a while, poking around in the shops and finding some nice souvenirs before heading back toward the train station. Once there, we discovered that we had just over an hour to wait before the next train. We walked across the street to a bakery where we indulged in pastries and coffee. Back at the station, we spoke briefly with a very nice couple from Canada who have one daughter living in Lyon, France and another residing in Miami, Florida! And we thought our kids were scattered! 

The weather had turned out to be beautifully sunny and warm. We decided to go for ice cream after returning to Orléans, at one of Desmond's favorite places. I could not believe the variety! Beer ice cream, fois gras ice cream - you name it, they probably made it! I chose something a bit tame - a scoop of lemon and one of dark chocolate. Both flavors were decadent! Craig felt like going back to the apartment for a rest, so Des and I continued on together, talking about our day as we explored some more shops. I found a couple of lovely scarves and other small items. 

That evening, instead of a meal at a restaurant, we chose to go to a bar that is frequented by Desmond and his friends. We ordered a "planche" to go along with our drinks.  A large plank of wood soon arrived at our table, with our "snack" laid out upon it. The food was beautifully arranged and consisted of no less than five different cheeses, ham, dry sausage, blood sausage, apple and orange slices, raisins, pickled onions, dill pickles, pate, and a basket of toast on the side! Wow! It was quite enough for the three of us, though we barely touched the blood sausage. We had such fun, sitting outside in the warm evening air, talking and laughing as we enjoyed our snack. To go with it, Des had suggested that I try the Kriek, a cherry beer. It had just the right amount of sweetness and really hit the spot. It's things like this - just a fun, casual meal with loved ones - that I remember the most.

A planche, which we enjoyed at a bar in Orléans.

Rain on Our Parade

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Craig and I awoke to a lovely, sunny morning and after a quick cup of coffee, walked the few blocks to our "local" bakery. It had just reopened after having been closed for vacation. We selected some yummy-looking pastries and took them back to our little apartment where we enjoyed them with more of that fragrant, mellow coffee. Desmond and his friend, Matt arrived just then, so he and I walked back to the bakery for more pastries while Craig started another pot of coffee. At the bakery, a long line had formed all the way out the door to the edge of the sidewalk. There was a man sitting in front, selling sprigs of lily-of-the-valley, which is a tradition on May 1. Mathieu bought one for me, wrapped with pretty ribbons. There was a beautiful long-haired dog waiting patiently for his owner, a young woman who was standing in line directly behind us. A man came out of the bakery, carrying a bag from which several baguettes were protruding. When he bent down to examine the flowers, the big dog very slowly leaned toward the bread and was just about to take a bite when his owner noticed him. She chastised the dog, who lay down on the sidewalk looking somewhat dejected. When it was finally our turn at the bakery counter, we purchased a bag of chouquettes, an amande (a flaky crust which was filled with blackberry jam, topped with a thin, glazed crust and a cherry) and a lovely fruit tart. The tart was filled with beautifully arranged fruit which was coated with a shiny glaze. All of the items in the pastry case were so pretty - I wanted to taste every one! 

A bread-loving Briard.

Our neighborhood bakery in Orléans, France.

After breakfast, we decided to attend the Joan of Arc festival, even though a chilly drizzle was beginning to fall. Just as we left the apartment, our host, Pascal, approached and handed me a little vase filled with lily-of-the-valley. He could have had no idea how much the May basket tradition meant to me, and I was very touched. At home, I have been leaving May baskets at my parent's door every year for almost forty years. In fact, because I knew I would be in France for May day, I had arranged with one of my daughters to deliver the flowers in my stead.

We had only one umbrella with us, but set out with hopes of finding some plastic rain ponchos at the festival grounds. The festival was taking place on an island at a lake a couple of miles from town. By the time we found a place to park, the rain was falling in earnest. We slogged through the parking lot and across the bridge onto the island where we soon discovered there were no ponchos or umbrellas to be found. The four of us were determined to have a good time, so we continued on. Our first stop was a large food tent where we able to find seats out of the downpour. We dined on spit-roasted ostrich, which tasted a bit like beef, only sweeter. It was accompanied by baked potatoes and caramelized onions and was served with our choice of beer, mulled wine, or hard cider. I was tempted to use my baked potato as a hand warmer!

This man is basting ostrich with a bamboo brush.

We were disappointed to learn that the jousting had been canceled due to the muddy conditions. We instead spent some time visiting many of the booths which featured demonstrations of activities from medieval times. We also explored the vendor's tents, and purchased some great souvenirs. I was impressed with the items offered for sale; they had to be made in the old ways - no plastic trinkets or factory-made items here! Craig bought a beautiful handmade wooden beer mug. We picked up seven different kinds of dry sausage in flavors such as wild boar, hazelnut, and juniper berry. We also purchased cookies of several different varieties such as creme fraiche, hazelnut, and caramel. The weather was unrelenting, and we finally decided to call it quits. On our way back to the parking lot, we came upon a procession arriving from town. It was a parade of knights, pages, the band, and Joan of Arc on her white horse. They had marched in the rain all the way from the center of town, and yet were all still smiling and quite enthusiastic in spite of the downpour. In France, they say "Il pleut des cordes" which means, "It is raining ropes." 

A very damp procession at the Joan of Arc festival in Orléans, France

Back at Desmond's place, we warmed up over huge mugs of hot tea and shared all of the different cookies we had purchased at the festival. They were delicious! Finally warm and dry, we walked over to the Rue de Borgogne for dinner. The rain had ceased and the sky was clear. Les Pissenlits par la Racine (The Dandelion Root) is a restaurant serving French food. We had mostly been dining at ethnic restaurants, so this was a nice change. Craig and I both chose the filet of pork with a honey cream sauce. It was served atop a mound of crisply fried potatoes in a huge dish and was wonderful! Des had a rich dish of ham, potatoes, and onions in a creamy sauce with lots of cheese. Tartiflette, perhaps? Mathieu ordered the salmon tartare, which was served with basil sorbet, tomato sorbet, and Bearnaise sauce. There were several delightful-sounding desserts on the menu, but none of us felt we had room for dessert after the large portions we had consumed. When that memorable meal ended, Craig and I decided to forgo the tram, and instead enjoyed a beautiful walk home across the Loire.

Rue de Borgogne after the rain.

A delightful dish of Pork with Honey Cream

RECIPE: Pork with Honey Cream. I liked this dish so well that I re-created it at home. You will find the recipe on our food blog entry here: The Eating Habit